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Everything posted by bmwmilos

  1. Greetings to all! I have a problem and maybe someone had a similar experience before and can help. A friend of mine bought a 2006 450 cdi and in a couple of days it shut down twice during driving,not being able to start for 2-3 minutes,then restarted and running ok again. His neighbour hooked it to the tester and fault was P2000 ( related to crank sensor ). He replaced the sensor with BoSCH ( off course it was blocked and needed to be drilled ) however after a couple of days issue reoccurred. He brought it to me for diagnosing further. I hooked it to a tester and went for a drive and I was able to reproduce the problem. The car stopped with P1187 rail pressure code and had no pressure when trying to restart.
  2. I disassembled the CP pump and found practically nothing. All of the orings were ok, it seems they were replaced at some point. Plungers are bright and shiny,no signs of wear, one is slightly darker ( the one with solenoid on top ) but still mirror finished. Only thing I found was that the fuel seal on shaft wore a groove inside the shaft, so I will polish that and I found locally a thinner seal so I will move it 2mm away from groove and it should be ok. There was no leak of fuel from pump. The one way valve springs are good and as far as I can test they hold, even the one way ball valve. So I will reassemble the pump with new seal set And then we will see.
  3. @Willysdo you mean the wires from additional element on CP pump or the wires from crank sensor? I did check all of those and there was no visible problems,not even cracked insulation. @Nigel the engine feels full of power,running great with throttle fully available until I hear that click, then I sense a judder, even when going downhill with foot off throttle there is an engine judder ( and relay clicks in SAM ) about 10-20 seconds before the engine shuts down. When going downhill and this occurs it feels like I am giving small throttle input, that kind of judder. The engine shuts down not only in acceleration or constant speed,but also when going downhill with throttle released. This is why I don't think it's CP pump, since with throttle released there is no flow through injectors.
  4. I even tried the pressure sensor from my 450 but the problem remains. Maybe I will swap CP pump also for testing.
  5. I did monitor the pressure in real time with Texa Axone. The demanded vs real pressure is almost the same,until I start to notice the voltage drop/relay click during driving, then real pressure goes slightly below demanded and the pressure regulators duty cycle goes to 80% or even higher. That would suggest fuel starvation and I was considering CP1 pump, I even have a Bosch repair kit ( I ordered two kits when I resealed the pump on my 450 cdi ), but I am puzzled by the fact that the low pressure pump switches off and does not restart for the next 2-3 minutes. I guess I will remove the CP pump and open it up. I also have the orings for pressure regulator so I will also replace those,but the waiting time is still puzzling.
  6. After 2-3 minutes of waiting when I try to start I see the voltage on fuel pump and the car starts immediately. So by my reasoning it cannot be only fuel pump relay/pin problem because if this was the case the car would start when I bypass fuel pump directly to battery. Something else is preventing the car from starting.
  7. I have resoldered the pins, even though there were no visible cracks or damaged pins or connector. I have connected a wire directly to red/black wire for the fuel feed pump and I used it for measuring pump voltage. When I determined that when the car shuts down the pump is not receiving power, i connected that wire directly to battery but the car still would not start.
  8. I forgot to write, fuel filter was the first thing to change, as well as filling the tank to max. I do not understand your post,can you elaborate please what to look on high pressure side??? I wrote that low pressure fuel pump 12v supply goes missing, and it does not reappear for 2-3 minutes and during that time the car cranks but no start. The high pressure pump cannot produce pressure if the low pressure is missing. P1187 is normal consequence, since ECU wants more pressure,but the pressure cannot be achieved due to low pressure pump stopping.
  9. I suspect that the problem lies within SAM unit, maybe relays are bad or maybe there is some Darlington driver ( like ULN2003 ) that overheats and switches off. I will reopen the SAM unit and retest everything but I do not know what each relay does. Does anyone have a CDI SAM pinout and relay list inside the unit? I would like to test if the power to the ECU also switches off when the issue occurs but I don't know which wires supply power to ECU. Did anyone have a similar problem and how was it solved ?
  10. I did notice that the car does not stop when cold,but only after being driven for a while. When it stops for the first time,and after restart it takes maybe 3-5 kms to stop again. I was able to hear sometimes before stopping a relay click in SAM and noticed a drop in fuel pressure at the same time. I also noticed that a few seconds before the engine dies if I am driving with throttle released the engine starts to judder ( as if I am playing with the throttle ) and the voltage on fuel pump also changes ( goes down then back a few times ). The tester is not fast enough to detect these changes,but I suspect that something causes the relay for the fuel pump, and also some relay for ECU to switch off.
  11. I read about SAM pin problem for fuel pump, I removed SAM from car,opened it up and found no obvious problems inside. I resoldered all of the pins and put everything back,went for a drive and it stopped again. I hooked a multimeter to fuel pump wire Teed a pressure gauge to low pressure supply. When started and during driving low pressure was about 2.5-2.8 bar, and voltage on fuel pump wire 13.5-13.7V. Then the car stopped and when trying to restart there was no voltage on fuel pump wire. I hooked the wire directly to battery but it still wouldn't start. After 2-3 minutes the voltage reappered during cranking and the car started.
  12. Greetings to all! As I already wrote in my presentation topic I had to, unfortunately, drop the engine from my recently bought Smart 450 CDI to diagnose the noise from the engine. I brought it to my work as I have tools and space there. I found that the lifters were gone and damaged rockers and valve stem tops. Fortunately the camshaft is as good as new. Since I had to remove the head I then decided to disassemble the engine completely and rebuild it renewing everything necessary. I had a lot of trouble removing lifters from the head. It seems that the pounding from camshaft pressed them inside ( here in my opinion there is also a design flaw with lifters because they expand immediately at the bottom and the conical transition on lifter makes an imprint on the head and the two cones then grip ). After trying many different things and producing many different "tools" to extract the lifters,and almost abandoning the head and going to search for a replacement, at hte end I did manage to make a tool strong enough to force the lifters out. The rest of the engine was relatively easy to disassemble. The timing chain has absolutely no signs of damage ( 2002. 0.8 CDI with 160000 kms on the clock ). The sprockets are god as new with only a little signs of "work" at the bottom of the teeth. The sides of the teeth are intact. Cylinders are near perfect with honing still visible and almost no wear ( I measured but do not remember the number ).The pistong rings are a little bit worn,the oil scraper's inner spring has lost its strength but this was expected. Valve guides for exhaust valves need to be changed but I cannot seem to find the part number or any of the reference anywhere online. Oil pump is perfect, so is the chain and sprocket. The oil pump sprocket in my opinion has very low teeth profile,however by the signs of wear ( or lack of to be exact ) it seems that the desing is ok. I read a lot about problems with sprockets and chains here on forum. The EGR valve was full of c..p,and I was surprised to see what was coming out of intake manifold when I washed it with pressure washer. I washed it 7 times and it still has some dirt inside, I do not understand how this engine could breathe... My friend and I already have some testing going on for a while for EGR related problems ( carbon buildup in intake manifold,.... ). It was his idea and after explaining it to me it sounded reasonable so we are testing this on both of our cars ( his Audi A8 4.2 TDI and my BMW 530d ) and so far it seems that his logic was right. But this is something to be discussed in another topic. Also I found that clutch actuator was almost going through clutch fork ( off course no grease anywhere not even in traces ). Now I am acquiring all the parts I need to reassemble the engine. I already ordered piston rings set, lifters, rocker arms, valves, head gasket set, crankshaft seals front and rear, oil sump with plug, timing chain kit with guides and tensioner, oil chain only, head screws,both rear engine mounts ( front is new ), new turbine cartridge, oil, filters,clutch fork with release bearing,water pump, shaft seals on gearbox. I am having problems finding valve guides ( no info anywhere on the web ) and also conrod big end bearings. Crankshaft main bearings are like new and I will put them back in. The conrod big end bearings are also like new and I am tempted to reinstall them back. So if anyone has some info on valve guides and conrod bearings that would help me a lot. Also I think that the gearbox splined shaft seal was leaking a bit ( but I am not sure since the gearbx breather is inside the bell housing and the entire housing was "lightly coated" in oil ) so if anyone has the dimensions and type of seal that would be of great help also. The tightening torques for the engine are also a mystery, very little info. I also read that MB changed the torque values over the years so I am not sure anymore what are the correct torque values for all of the bolts ( especially main bearings and side screws, conrod bearing screws, sprockets,crank pulley,....) I need all the help I can get and I am willing to help others if they come across any problems or decide to work on their car/engine.
  13. High pressure common rail pump. Aircon compressor I did not even touch. I removed two screws holding it to the engine and tied it with cable ties when I removed the engine. I did dismount and reseal the CP1 pump some time ago ( seals were torn by high pressure) but I also don't remember seeing M8 set screw there.
  14. I speak german also,so if you need to translate anything I can help you too. I finished installing my engine back and just came from a 30 mile test drive. Now the engine is quiet as it should be. I managed to track a source of occasional chain slapping sound that got worse in the last 100miles. I did not notice it before,and i opened the timing cover twice to inspect. The dowel pin that holds the oil chain tensioner was not perpendicular to the chain just by a bit. But it was enough to slowly push the chain outwards and wanting to "climb" over the oil pump sprocket sideways. Not to mention that the tension was higher on inside element of the chain than on the outside. By using a piece of pipe to bend the pin, and a straight edge and caliper I realigned the tensioner in both directions until I managed to rotate the engine and the oil chain not tending to go neither in nor out on oil pump sprocket. I can't believe that I didn't check that before. As for the locking screw, I noticed that on the CP pump there are screws of that type, but they are M6 thread. I checked around my engine this morning and I did not find that type of screw anywhere.
  15. Oh,and do you have the link for shop manual?
  16. The alternator does not have this screw,the starter also. I just dismantled oil cooler and there is no grub screw there. I can't remember if there is something on vacuum pump,water pump or CP pump,but I honestly don't remember seeing it anywhere. Oh,and did you dismount the oil pressure regulating valve? The TX plug on oil filter housing? The piston on mine was slightly worn by aluminum housing ( ??? ), so I cleaned the burrs,polished it shiny and turned the piston 180 degrees so it works on the sides that are not worn.
  17. Hi Willys I rebuilt my engine as you know and I don't remember seeing that type of locking screw anywhere on the engine. With all this corona time I pulled out my engine again, disassembled the gearbox,changed bearings and mount everything back, plus solving a problem with play in inner cv joints causing a leak on seals. I don't remember seeing that screw even on gearbox.
  18. Oh and you need a long socket for head bolts. And I do not remember precisely,but I think it was T55, not T60, but maybe I am wrong.
  19. By thermostat mod do you mean the restrictor in bypass line?
  20. Hi Willy! I'm glad you are also freshening up the engine. I also started with valve cover and after finding this and that I ended up with bare block. In the meantime I also rebuilt the CP1 high pressure pump as it was leaking more and more. The seals were gone. The pump rebuild is fairly simple,only thing to watch is absolute cleanliness. I also scraped of the rust from the pump parts when disassembled, passed the pump heads and non return valve seats with 3000 grit sandpaper on straight block and with polish afterwards. I did use a lot of brake cleaner. And that did solve the famous knocking sound during acceleration. For the oil chain change also the tensioner and spring, I found that the old tensioner flexes to some extent more than the new one and the spring also showed some signs of wear. If you need any help I'm here.
  21. Thank you all for the nice words! I do not have a lot of free time, I am always working on some projects so I do not spend time reading the forum a lot, however as I already wrote if someone needs any assistance with engine rebuild or something else feel free to contact me through PM or email. Sorry for some photos, I realised later that some of them are bit blurry, but at the time I took them my hands were dirty and I didn't want to mess up the phone too much with oil and grease. For the AC at the end I only changed the condenser and the AC afterwards is running like new. I did other things, handbrake cables,rear quarter window seals,... I am still having problem of water ingress on driver side ( LH ). On the right side I only closed the hole for the screw on mirror holder and the leak is gone. However on LH side I did the same but there is still water coming in rainy weather, I have to investigate further. I am also having problem with gearbox oil leak and excessive play of inner CV joint in gearbox, but I opened new topic for that, hoping to get some replies. I think I am going to drop the engine again and dismount and disassemble the gearbox so that I can determine the cause and change the bearings when it's already opened.
  22. I have to add that I did not notice any play in differential bearings when I hold both CV joints pressed vs inside and try to move them.I have marked the spots in red which I think may be the problem ( worn diff housing or retaining ring ). Also there are no noises from the gearbox, it is running very smooth and gear change is very good.
  23. Greetings to all! After having done the complete engine overhaul and some other thingies my wife's Smart has been running ok ( apart from two noises that I still have to find the cause ). However a couple of days ago when I went to change the oil and install a modified filter housing I noticed a red fluid on the differential housing. It was ATF fluid from gearbox. I then investigated the cause because when doing overhaul I also changed both output shaft seals as well as input shaft seal. When I tried to move the inner CV joint on LH side ( driver side in Europe ) i found that the joint has a lot of play inside the gearbox/differential up to a point that I can create an opening in the seal of about 1mm or maybe more. Another thing I have noticed is that when I did this there was quite a pressure built up inside the gearbox and it escaped out together with some oil when I moved the CV joint. The CV joint on RH side does not have that play. I tried to press the CV joint versus interior of differential and it seems to me that then there is less play. Did someone have this kind of problem and if yes how can it be resolved ? I was thinking that maybe inside the cv joint there should be a spring creating a tension versus the differential and that the spring could be cracked but I cannot find a picture of the inner joint disassembled. Maybe the retaining ring on the cv joint shaft is worn ?? But I cannot extract the cv joint out of the gearbox without using a pry bar. I will drain the oil and remove the axle to verify in the next couple of days, I just wanted to see if someone can point out the things that can be consumed/worn to look out for if anyone had a similar problem. I did come across one post on this forum ( in another topic ) where someone posted the same question but no one replied to that.
  24. The hoses and connectors showed no leaks,not even on the quick connectors below the car ( I do not know if the hoses are upgraded or not - I did not find what is different about upgraded hoses ). So I think after changing condenser AC will be ok ( condenser is "eaten" by road salt from the looks of it )
  25. The next day again no AC ... I was pissed off, I went there again, he recharged the AC again ( that's a total of 1.8 kg of R134a ) and gave me money back nad told me that I should dosmount the entire car and take it to some other AC tech for diagnosing... It was 38 degrees C outside so I waited for 8 PM ( a bit cooler then ) and then dismounted the front end in 15 minutes. I took my "special" UV lamp ( 2$ ebay ) and illuminated the condenser and it shined bright green on both sides. I also removed the air filter and checked the evaporator and there were no signs of leaking. I then eemounted the front end and then I realised that the "green" condenser is easily seen through opening in the front bumper. So now I am waiting for new condenser to arrive, I will install it and then go to recharge the system somewhere else. This I wrote only so you all can understand why I went to do the engine overhaul myself because most of the workshops here are at the same level of expertise..