bmwmilos

Greetings I have been looking everywhere but I cannot find any information. I cannot find where is the opening through which the air from the cabin/car exits outside? I know in my BMW I have air outlets in the rear which have rubber flap valves to prevent air entering from the rear. However on Smart I cannot find this type of air outlet anywhere. So when the heater/AC fan is running with fresh air I cannot see where does the cabin air escape? Did anyone dismount the interiors and found out?

The door closing is what got me searching. When you try to close the door with all windows closed it takes quite an effort to shut them completely. However if one window is open and you use the same amount of force, the door slams shut. I looked in the rear area and cannot find any openings. Another thing that's related is when heater fan runs,despite it's noise and high speed, the flow of air through vents is not that great. But when you use recirculation ( or open the rear hatch glass even for a few cms ) the flow increases significantly. This leads me to believe that there are no exhaust ports, only the air that manages to escape through various gaps. It seems strange that this was not considered during design of the car, but....

Greetings to all! I have a problem and maybe someone had a similar experience before and can help. A friend of mine bought a 2006 450 cdi and in a couple of days it shut down twice during driving,not being able to start for 2-3 minutes,then restarted and running ok again. His neighbour hooked it to the tester and fault was P2000 ( related to crank sensor ). He replaced the sensor with BoSCH ( off course it was blocked and needed to be drilled ) however after a couple of days issue reoccurred. He brought it to me for diagnosing further. I hooked it to a tester and went for a drive and I was able to reproduce the problem. The car stopped with P1187 rail pressure code and had no pressure when trying to restart.

Here you can see cylinder surface. The shape is somewhat evident even here but not nearly as much as it was on my friend's pump.

Here is the photo of pump element head I am referring to. The metal cage ( yellow arrow ) holds a spring and a small plate and it is inlet one way valve. It just pops out but you have to be careful to mark the orientation of the spring and valve plate ( spring is conical ). To reassemble I used tweezers to push the tabs around inside the indent while holding the cage,spring and plate down with my finger. A bit delicate. The red arrows point to a black/dark signs around the "ping pong racket" shaped indent in head. These signs are an indication of a leak, that plane should be clear as it seals against pump element cylinder. On element cylinder there were two distinct " ping pong racket" shapes with dark marks, which upon cleaning and looking under microscope showed that it was in fact eroded. Using a flat plane I went from 1000 grit down until I could not see the marks on cylinder anymore, then back up to 2000 grit ( with WD 40 as lubricant ) and a polish. You have to be careful when going to a finer grit to clean thoroughly everything as one small debris can make a line on cylinder surface and you have to go back to coarser grit. The surface of cylinder should be mirror finish. The I took out the cage, spring and plate from valve head and polished that also on flat plane to mirror finish.

Unfortunately no pictures, I was working with gloves, and a lot of rags, diesel, oil, brake cleaner, so the phone was tucked away. I remembered that I should have taken pictures when the pump was fully assembled. If you have a diagnostic tool and can read live data you should monitor real vs demanded rail pressure and pressure regulation valve %. At idle it is 15-18% now ( with one pump element disengaged). The maximum I can achieve now is 40% when driving, where as before it was always going above 60% with every load on engine. Mjolinor was right and I was wrong. The engine shuts itself down for 2 minutes including low pressure pump when the real pressure cannot reach desired rail pressure for some time. The reasons could be multiple - low pressure side - tank pump bad, filter clogged, SAM pins ( easily diagnosed with a T and a pressure gauge to low pressure connection on engine and monitoring the pressure ) -high pressure side - pump orings, eroded/damaged elements, pressure regulator orings, pressure regulator itself, worn injectors ( can be diagnosed to some extent monitoring return flow from injectors and looking live data while driving ). I purchased an oring kit from Star diesel which contains also pressure regulator orings.

Just to put a final post, the problem is resolved. The problem was the CP pump, and after I did the repairs, the duty cycle of pressure regulator dropped from 60-65% at full throttle uphill to 39-40% max I could see with Texa. It was difficult to see the problem, but after examining pump elements closely with microscope I found that the cylinder was eroded where the small head with non return valve sits. There were two distinct oval marks, I guess when someone replaced the orings before they rotated the element cylinder. Then I remembered that the head bolts were not very tight, at least not as much as I expected. The erosion was quite evident with microscope, and there was definitely a pressure leak at the joint between element cylinder and small head. I used a flat plane and had to go all the way down to 600 grit sandpaper to eliminate the erosion,then I slowly went up to 2000 grit and a final polish. I disassembled the non return valves from small heads and did the same with heads, but I only had to go down to 1000 grit until they were perfectly flat. I cleaned all the parts, reassembled the pump with plenty of clean diesel and tightened the heads to specified torque. I guess that when the fuel pressure/quantity demand was greater, the pump had these leaks and would heat up somewhat, the leaks increased up to a point that the pump could not deliver enough pressure even with pressure regulator closed and ECU would shut down the engine for 2-3 minutes. This is the only rational explanation I can think of. Now the car is running great, I did a 4 hour drive forcing it uphill as much as I could and there was no more engine stopping or ECU faults.

I disassembled the CP pump and found practically nothing. All of the orings were ok, it seems they were replaced at some point. Plungers are bright and shiny,no signs of wear, one is slightly darker ( the one with solenoid on top ) but still mirror finished. Only thing I found was that the fuel seal on shaft wore a groove inside the shaft, so I will polish that and I found locally a thinner seal so I will move it 2mm away from groove and it should be ok. There was no leak of fuel from pump. The one way valve springs are good and as far as I can test they hold, even the one way ball valve. So I will reassemble the pump with new seal set And then we will see.

@Willysdo you mean the wires from additional element on CP pump or the wires from crank sensor? I did check all of those and there was no visible problems,not even cracked insulation. @Nigel the engine feels full of power,running great with throttle fully available until I hear that click, then I sense a judder, even when going downhill with foot off throttle there is an engine judder ( and relay clicks in SAM ) about 10-20 seconds before the engine shuts down. When going downhill and this occurs it feels like I am giving small throttle input, that kind of judder. The engine shuts down not only in acceleration or constant speed,but also when going downhill with throttle released. This is why I don't think it's CP pump, since with throttle released there is no flow through injectors.

I even tried the pressure sensor from my 450 but the problem remains. Maybe I will swap CP pump also for testing.

I did monitor the pressure in real time with Texa Axone. The demanded vs real pressure is almost the same,until I start to notice the voltage drop/relay click during driving, then real pressure goes slightly below demanded and the pressure regulators duty cycle goes to 80% or even higher. That would suggest fuel starvation and I was considering CP1 pump, I even have a Bosch repair kit ( I ordered two kits when I resealed the pump on my 450 cdi ), but I am puzzled by the fact that the low pressure pump switches off and does not restart for the next 2-3 minutes. I guess I will remove the CP pump and open it up. I also have the orings for pressure regulator so I will also replace those,but the waiting time is still puzzling.

After 2-3 minutes of waiting when I try to start I see the voltage on fuel pump and the car starts immediately. So by my reasoning it cannot be only fuel pump relay/pin problem because if this was the case the car would start when I bypass fuel pump directly to battery. Something else is preventing the car from starting.

I have resoldered the pins, even though there were no visible cracks or damaged pins or connector. I have connected a wire directly to red/black wire for the fuel feed pump and I used it for measuring pump voltage. When I determined that when the car shuts down the pump is not receiving power, i connected that wire directly to battery but the car still would not start.

I forgot to write, fuel filter was the first thing to change, as well as filling the tank to max. I do not understand your post,can you elaborate please what to look on high pressure side??? I wrote that low pressure fuel pump 12v supply goes missing, and it does not reappear for 2-3 minutes and during that time the car cranks but no start. The high pressure pump cannot produce pressure if the low pressure is missing. P1187 is normal consequence, since ECU wants more pressure,but the pressure cannot be achieved due to low pressure pump stopping.

I suspect that the problem lies within SAM unit, maybe relays are bad or maybe there is some Darlington driver ( like ULN2003 ) that overheats and switches off. I will reopen the SAM unit and retest everything but I do not know what each relay does. Does anyone have a CDI SAM pinout and relay list inside the unit? I would like to test if the power to the ECU also switches off when the issue occurs but I don't know which wires supply power to ECU. Did anyone have a similar problem and how was it solved ?

I did notice that the car does not stop when cold,but only after being driven for a while. When it stops for the first time,and after restart it takes maybe 3-5 kms to stop again. I was able to hear sometimes before stopping a relay click in SAM and noticed a drop in fuel pressure at the same time. I also noticed that a few seconds before the engine dies if I am driving with throttle released the engine starts to judder ( as if I am playing with the throttle ) and the voltage on fuel pump also changes ( goes down then back a few times ). The tester is not fast enough to detect these changes,but I suspect that something causes the relay for the fuel pump, and also some relay for ECU to switch off.

I read about SAM pin problem for fuel pump, I removed SAM from car,opened it up and found no obvious problems inside. I resoldered all of the pins and put everything back,went for a drive and it stopped again. I hooked a multimeter to fuel pump wire Teed a pressure gauge to low pressure supply. When started and during driving low pressure was about 2.5-2.8 bar, and voltage on fuel pump wire 13.5-13.7V. Then the car stopped and when trying to restart there was no voltage on fuel pump wire. I hooked the wire directly to battery but it still wouldn't start. After 2-3 minutes the voltage reappered during cranking and the car started.

Greetings to all! As I already wrote in my presentation topic I had to, unfortunately, drop the engine from my recently bought Smart 450 CDI to diagnose the noise from the engine. I brought it to my work as I have tools and space there. I found that the lifters were gone and damaged rockers and valve stem tops. Fortunately the camshaft is as good as new. Since I had to remove the head I then decided to disassemble the engine completely and rebuild it renewing everything necessary. I had a lot of trouble removing lifters from the head. It seems that the pounding from camshaft pressed them inside ( here in my opinion there is also a design flaw with lifters because they expand immediately at the bottom and the conical transition on lifter makes an imprint on the head and the two cones then grip ). After trying many different things and producing many different "tools" to extract the lifters,and almost abandoning the head and going to search for a replacement, at hte end I did manage to make a tool strong enough to force the lifters out. The rest of the engine was relatively easy to disassemble. The timing chain has absolutely no signs of damage ( 2002. 0.8 CDI with 160000 kms on the clock ). The sprockets are god as new with only a little signs of "work" at the bottom of the teeth. The sides of the teeth are intact. Cylinders are near perfect with honing still visible and almost no wear ( I measured but do not remember the number ).The pistong rings are a little bit worn,the oil scraper's inner spring has lost its strength but this was expected. Valve guides for exhaust valves need to be changed but I cannot seem to find the part number or any of the reference anywhere online. Oil pump is perfect, so is the chain and sprocket. The oil pump sprocket in my opinion has very low teeth profile,however by the signs of wear ( or lack of to be exact ) it seems that the desing is ok. I read a lot about problems with sprockets and chains here on forum. The EGR valve was full of c..p,and I was surprised to see what was coming out of intake manifold when I washed it with pressure washer. I washed it 7 times and it still has some dirt inside, I do not understand how this engine could breathe... My friend and I already have some testing going on for a while for EGR related problems ( carbon buildup in intake manifold,.... ). It was his idea and after explaining it to me it sounded reasonable so we are testing this on both of our cars ( his Audi A8 4.2 TDI and my BMW 530d ) and so far it seems that his logic was right. But this is something to be discussed in another topic. Also I found that clutch actuator was almost going through clutch fork ( off course no grease anywhere not even in traces ). Now I am acquiring all the parts I need to reassemble the engine. I already ordered piston rings set, lifters, rocker arms, valves, head gasket set, crankshaft seals front and rear, oil sump with plug, timing chain kit with guides and tensioner, oil chain only, head screws,both rear engine mounts ( front is new ), new turbine cartridge, oil, filters,clutch fork with release bearing,water pump, shaft seals on gearbox. I am having problems finding valve guides ( no info anywhere on the web ) and also conrod big end bearings. Crankshaft main bearings are like new and I will put them back in. The conrod big end bearings are also like new and I am tempted to reinstall them back. So if anyone has some info on valve guides and conrod bearings that would help me a lot. Also I think that the gearbox splined shaft seal was leaking a bit ( but I am not sure since the gearbx breather is inside the bell housing and the entire housing was "lightly coated" in oil ) so if anyone has the dimensions and type of seal that would be of great help also. The tightening torques for the engine are also a mystery, very little info. I also read that MB changed the torque values over the years so I am not sure anymore what are the correct torque values for all of the bolts ( especially main bearings and side screws, conrod bearing screws, sprockets,crank pulley,....) I need all the help I can get and I am willing to help others if they come across any problems or decide to work on their car/engine.

High pressure common rail pump. Aircon compressor I did not even touch. I removed two screws holding it to the engine and tied it with cable ties when I removed the engine. I did dismount and reseal the CP1 pump some time ago ( seals were torn by high pressure) but I also don't remember seeing M8 set screw there.

I speak german also,so if you need to translate anything I can help you too. I finished installing my engine back and just came from a 30 mile test drive. Now the engine is quiet as it should be. I managed to track a source of occasional chain slapping sound that got worse in the last 100miles. I did not notice it before,and i opened the timing cover twice to inspect. The dowel pin that holds the oil chain tensioner was not perpendicular to the chain just by a bit. But it was enough to slowly push the chain outwards and wanting to "climb" over the oil pump sprocket sideways. Not to mention that the tension was higher on inside element of the chain than on the outside. By using a piece of pipe to bend the pin, and a straight edge and caliper I realigned the tensioner in both directions until I managed to rotate the engine and the oil chain not tending to go neither in nor out on oil pump sprocket. I can't believe that I didn't check that before. As for the locking screw, I noticed that on the CP pump there are screws of that type, but they are M6 thread. I checked around my engine this morning and I did not find that type of screw anywhere.

Oh,and do you have the link for shop manual?

The alternator does not have this screw,the starter also. I just dismantled oil cooler and there is no grub screw there. I can't remember if there is something on vacuum pump,water pump or CP pump,but I honestly don't remember seeing it anywhere. Oh,and did you dismount the oil pressure regulating valve? The TX plug on oil filter housing? The piston on mine was slightly worn by aluminum housing ( ??? ), so I cleaned the burrs,polished it shiny and turned the piston 180 degrees so it works on the sides that are not worn.

Hi Willys I rebuilt my engine as you know and I don't remember seeing that type of locking screw anywhere on the engine. With all this corona time I pulled out my engine again, disassembled the gearbox,changed bearings and mount everything back, plus solving a problem with play in inner cv joints causing a leak on seals. I don't remember seeing that screw even on gearbox.

Oh and you need a long socket for head bolts. And I do not remember precisely,but I think it was T55, not T60, but maybe I am wrong.

By thermostat mod do you mean the restrictor in bypass line?