Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About Toxophilite

  • Rank
    God-King Emperor

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vancouver BC
  1. My cap was loose a few weeks back, and I do have a very nasty sneaky vengeful neighbour (in an apartment building) However one ones tries not to be paranoid.
  2. Curiously I can't get it to happen when the car is in neutral and I'm just revving the engine. Only under load and it has been getting worse in 1st and 2nd gear. Tolsen is right, lurching implies jumping ahead, this is more of a dramatic hiccup/misfire where the car feels like it's dying very briefly
  3. Well if anything I'd just put the old one back in as it looked perfect and din't have anything in it.
  4. No and yes. I'm driving and i think it's when i accelerate and it's like hiccups and feels like the back end is going to drop off. Feels like the sort of dramatic effect you sometimes get when a car runs out of gas or gets it's fuel supply cut off dramatically.
  5. I must admit to not refilling it before reinstalling it. Maybe I have an airlock somewhere? It really does sound like the engine is almost just stoppping. Seems to be worse on acceleration . I mostly notice it while driving rather than froma stop. It was doing it quite badly and repeatedly approaching my place today. At a stop light, I put it in neutral and revved my engine several times (No doubt intimidating the huge black pickup in front of me). It seemed fine then for the short little bit remaining. The car has 79,00 km on it. It doesn't seem to happen during gear changes, more while accelerating.
  6. I did just replace the fuel filter water separator. I guess I might not have bled it. That was a couple weeks back.
  7. It started the lurch (last night) and was doing the lurch(early today) prior to me putting in the new ground fix. At that point it was alligator clipped to the block right by the fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping the lurch was the temporary ground being intermittent. It is now firmly bolted to the chassis ground right above the intercooler(where I believe I was told the ECU grounds, it was also the closest) I was hoping the permanent fix would stop the lurch but no luck So really it could have nothing to do with my fix. I'm not sure though.
  8. I have a 2005 smart fortwo 450 CDI Recently I repaired my fuel pressure sensor by adding another ground wire, initially with an alligator clip to the block and now with a proper tapped in ground wire bolted to the ECU ground strap. Last night (and before I did this final fix) I was heading up a hill and the car lurched quite dramatically (not unlike the sort of engineisgoingtofallout lurches cars make when they run out of fuel). Today on a short 20 minute drive across town it did it a few times and a couple times on the way home, once quite dramatically. Not always on a hill but I would say definitely when accelerating. Any idears?
  9. Thanks I found it a couple hours ago and it looked quite clean and it seemed to have continuity to ground. as it was late in the day and I am working in a parking lot I might take it off and have a better look tomorrow.
  10. Thanks! As I'm new to smart cars I will now look up the intercooler location
  11. One of the tests I was told to run is to test the signal ground with the plug unhooked by measuring between the signal ground on the plug and the positive terminal of the battery. Strange, with the signal ground clipped to the engine block my engine light goes out, The codes, when cleared don't seem to be coming back and the car is running properly.
  12. The engine ground is the braided copper unit going from chassis to the EGR mount yes? I have good continuity between the engine block and the chassis, testing from two different ground strap points on the chassis. This leads me to believe I should examine the connector for the ECU. I think the sensor goes in on the lower of what seems to be two connnectors
  13. So I got tired of fussing, unhooked battery for 30 seconds, and alligator clipped sensor ground to engine block, cleared codes and went for a test drive. Bingo, Car ran great, no engine light, no codes (tested twice as I went to store and back , tested at the store and when I got home. So my next stupid question is, where is the ECU(apparently also called the ECM) so I can track down the other end of the sensor ground and clean it and or fix it there rather than having an alligator clip on the engine. which isn't really reliable in the long run.
  14. Okay I found the numbers. They're on the underside of my plug, right where the wires enter the plug. I hadn't been looking at the underside. I normally don't spend a lot of time fixing cars if I can help it so many things that may seem obvious to some aren't to me. Even my mechanical engineer father who repaired and maintained his own airplanes said about the car "It must be Smart, I can't figure it out!" Still I'm not getting any voltages between the ground and the signal wire, nor between the ground and well, engine ground. And the signal wire maintains a steady 5V to engine/chassis ground. My method of tapping into the wiring while plugged in might not be ideal, likely there is a far better way that hasn't been made obvious to me yet . I see that on the pretty well inaccessible bottom of the plug there are two ports that allow access to pins 1 and 3...if one had probes shaped like fishhooks, which could be done. Nothing that obviously allows access to the signal ground connection when the plug is plugged in I think I asked before but maybe it got lost. How are other more experienced people measuring the 3 pins when the plug is plugged in? (oh and I don't have a wiring diagram either so I can't trace the lines to their source at this point.) Also testing my signal ground with the plug unplugged I get no batttery voltage on the signal ground wire. (when testing between battery positive and the signal ground) Where would I find the other end of the signal ground wire if I wished to attempt to bypass it in case I have a bad signal ground?
  15. Does your signal ground have continuity to the engine block?