mender

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About mender

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    Alberta Canada
  1. I'm an AST but haven't worked on Smarts before, so I don't have a history to draw from on these. It might be as simple as an intermittent brake pedal switch but it'll be interesting to find out what is causing the issue. However, the symptoms are what I would expect with a dragging clutch, which I do have experience diagnosing and fixing. You said earlier that you could hear noise from the actuator when it was trying to shift with the engine running; how did that compare to the sound with the engine off?
  2. Could be the clutch dragging if it works fine with the engine off but not when running.
  3. Took it to my local computer guy (who's also a friend), he said that the key generator apparently installed some chinese malware and advised me not to use the device. Anybody else have issues? Any problems with the vehicle after scanning, etc?
  4. Sounds like it's getting worse. I replaced my fuel filter before Christmas so don't remember the exact details but I'm wondering if you might be getting air in somehow or maybe have a restriction from a crimped or twisted fuel line. Worse on acceleration/power demand could be an indication of that; is there a throttle setting that is below the trigger point for the lurching? Does it increase with power demand? Or is it a certain amount of power for a certain amount of time, i.e. more power triggers it faster than moderate power?
  5. Water in the fuel?
  6. Okay, made it partway through the final step as shown at 8:03 but had a fatal error on initialization? before it finished that step. The bar was about 3/4 of the way across. Activation was OK. Internet is off (other computer). Not sure I got Norton shut off but I think so. Went back and erased the application data file as requested and started over. Same error. Suggestions?
  7. It's on the side of the air cleaner. It uses the intake air for cooling. I was going to mention the possibility of a bad engine ground and using a temporary jumper to test. Find the proper ground, clean it or tighten the fasteners and you should be good. Or if it's too awkward at the moment, make your jumper more permanent with at least a 10 gauge wire bolted to the car and engine. Do the engine ground first, it's a common fault for a lot of cars and should be at the top of the list to check for any electrical or electronic issues. I should have said so earlier, sorry.
  8. Tolsen's diagram is correct for the expected voltages. I'll see if I can confirm the locations and wire colours for you tomorrow. -27 C predicted in the morning.
  9. From earlier: "Update: fuel pump runs and pressure on low side is 2.1 bar just before the clear lines by the fuel rail. Drops to 1.9 bar while cranking. No start but again, puffs of atomized diesel coming out of the exhaust. Checked high side fuel pressure sensor, has 5.012 volts supply and good ground, sensor voltage is 0.035 volts when fuel pump is on. Sensor reading goes to -0.086 volts while cranking, supply voltage drops to 4.868 volts while cranking. A little math shows the voltage difference when on and then again while cranking is roughly the same at about 4.96 volts. How would a faulty pressure sensor affect starting/running?" Next step: "Changed the fuel rail to get different pressure regulator and pressure sensor. Old rail was full of fuel so the prior regulator might not have been the issue, and fuel was getting through the high pressure pump. Result: now reads 0.525 volts with key on, engine off so reading the pressure from the feed pump. Reading goes to 1.3v range when cranking and there was more activity from the engine. Fired one cylinder once within first rev, then sporadic firing. Not enough to get anywhere near starting but encouraging." My problem was solved by replacing the nozzles on my injectors. They were clogged/rusted badly enough that there wasn't enough fuel to start the engine. With an ether assist it did run but quit after about ten seconds when the alternator started charging; the extra load was enough to drag the engine down and make it quit. But at least you have the results of my fuel rail testing.
  10. Thanks, I'm a little nervous about things that tell me to turn off protective things so it can take over!
  11. So I just received my chinese Delphi DS150e VCI snooper, ordered based on this advice. I inserted the DVD and got an immediate message from Norton about a Trojan virus. Any suggestions?
  12. Collapsed muffler? I would disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold and go for a (loud) run. Cheap and easy test.
  13. I don't know what adapter is needed for the Smart engine but I do know that the kit I have doesn't have it. Fuel pressure kit will work for the low pressure side.
  14. Make sure the kits have the right adapters and pressure range for your intended use.
  15. We bought the Smart car for my wife to use now that our kids are out of the house. I'm now driving her ML320 since my shop is only 1.3 kms from my house, and the school that she teaches at is 16 kms. I figure we're saving about $0.10/km so should be about $10,000 less fuel cost per 100,000 kms. I just went through the engine so am expecting to get at least 200,000 kms out of it.