Sydney

would anyone have a close up picture of how the spring is held in position on the fuel door? my fuel door wont stay closed, i removed the fuel door assembly and found a metal spring had fallen off. i just have to figure out how to reattach it. thanks.

i agree with the above , remove the subframe/engine as a complete unit. its much easier. you will have to disconnect the fuel, coolant, vacuum, and brake lines but it is not really that big of a deal.

Hi group, i usually stick with the 450's but yesterday i came across a 451 that i just had to take home with me. its a 2008 passion with 90k on it, car is in excellent shape but .... no start, possible clutch shot, 3 bars and who knows what else. (car came with a spare SAM and has a new actuator installed) which usually is not a good sign. anyway what i plan on doing is a detailed post with lots of pictures (like i did with one of my 450's) smarts need to stay on the road, so this will be another one that i need to save (wife still thinks i have something wrong in my head) lol. cheers.

i think i have it figured out (or i found another issue). i decided to get under the car and give the actuator a check. it was in the retracted position and seemed way out of adjustment (no even close to touching the clutch arm). i removed the actuator and with my finger i could easily move the clutch arm (it is just flopping around) so either the thro out bearing is gone (no likely) or the clutch is shot which seems common for a 451 with 100k on it.

so here is what i have found so far. i was able to get the car started and running with no problem at all. \now here is what i am up against, if i just have the ignition on i can shift from park to N then D and even switch from auto to manual and switch to 2nd. but thats where things go bad. if i switch from second back to 1st the display goes to N. if i have the car running and switch from park thru R,N then drive all i get on the display is N in all positions then when i shut the car off and try to restart i get 3 bars. i can then disconnect the battery and start the whole process over again.

here is what i have found so far. when you turn the ignition on there is the 3 bars, but it goes away afer you depress the brake pedal. (i can hear the actuator trying to do something) i have 2 pending codes. P1914 gear ahift position circuit P0707 trans range sensor A circuit low

its good to be back tinkering with the smarts. i still have 3 cdi and 1 gas now. no snow here at all. (actually warm out today).

thanks for replying back, but i need panels for a cabrio.

Hi everyone, i am looking for phat red body panels for a 2005 cabrio. specifically a right rear fender. but i would also be interested in 2 black fenders and i can just keep the red center section. or a complete black rear end... anyone? thanks

could it be something as simple as while making too fast of a turn, your smart tried to skip 2 gears instead of 1 and got confused and went into 3 bars. after the key was shut of for a bit, the SAM reset and you were now good to go... jus throwing it out there, because it happened to me. i was slowing down in auto mode, while the car tried to downshift i hit the paddle shift and tried to force the car to ship a gear while down shifting. the car didnt like what i did, and threw a 3 bars hissy fit.

Ya, I'm thinking it must have to do with the HP pump. I can get fuel right to the low pressure plastic line that goes into the top of the HP pump. But nothing coming out of the HP steel line from the pump to the rail. Yes I have 3 or 4 HP pumps kicking around. Lol.

Hi members, looking for some pointers on this problem. i have no fuel to the rail. SAM output to the LP pump was ok after all. i did add an extermal relay triggered from the SAM anyway. if i disconnect the fuel line (red connector) in the engine bay (by the oil fill cap), there is plenty of low pressure fuel flow, so i know the LP pump is running fine. if i hook everything up and loosen a metal line to an injector, i should get LP flow coming out of the metal line, but i have nothing. fuel should flow freely thru the high pressure pump with just the ignition on, but it seems to be blocked. any suggestions? thanks in advance.

All my other smarts are like that, if you loosen an injector line and turn the key to ignition, you get fuel flow. This car has no fuel flow, plus the car won't start which is another sign of no fuel.

Hi, i seem to have intermittent LP fuel pump SAM output. the SAM connector is not melted and i have opened the SAM and checked the common solder joints. if I jump 12v to the red/black wire from the SAM, the LP pump runs perfect, if the SAM controls the pump it is intermittent. would there be any issue with just bypassing the SAM's LP output and running it off a relay triggered from an ignition output off the SAM?

Starter went on one of my convertibles, then a customer showed up with his coupe (on a uhaul trailer), and it needs a starter also. So now I'm replacing 2 starters at the same time. Lol

Hi group. well after taking a year or so break (mabey longer) i am back tinkering with my remaining collection of cdi's. i am working on one of my 06 coupes. this one i picked up for $250.00 as a non runner. i was easily ably to get it running. so now that its a runner, im going to get it back on the road . car has the "3 bars of death" with i know is related to the trans. im going to start with the clutch actuator which the PO left on the front seat for me. lol. it is in the extended position, how can i retract it so i can reinstall it? (after i drill out 2 of the snapped of 3 mounting bolts) thanks.

it seems like its going to take alot of force to just push the plunger back in? should i take the electric motor off first? i dont want to strip the plastic gear.

i have a 2008 451, i have seen and have been watching youtube videos about replacing the hard odd shaped plastic intake baffle with a silicone intake tube that connects the throttle body directly to the air cleaner housing. has anyone on the group done this? any benefit besides gaining some room in the engine bay. thanks.

Where is everyone getting there tires at? It's time that I replace a few. but they are getting hard to find. None of my local tire shops can get the correct sizes.

just an FYI, and i am sure everyone already knows about this. i watched a few videos on people having a hard time removing the top nut to remove the strut to replace the front springs, because of the angle it seems really hard to get an impact gun on it. i just noticed that if you remove the plastic trim panel at the bottom of the windshield, there are access holes that will give almost a straight line access with an extension to the nuts.

turbo waste gate stuck ? happened to one of mine. easy fix. wd-40 and a pair of pliers and wiggle it back and forth till it looses up.

heated seat relays?

great to hear, changing a water pump without totally removing the engine and not breaking anything in 5 hours is a great accomplishment.

i have removed the actuator in my 08 with the battery connected with no codes or issues, just don't turn the key on.