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About o2bad455

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  • Location
    Montreal, QC
  1. Oh, does anyone know how easy to add a stock tachometer from a higher trim model to our tach-less Pure? Will I need wiring all the way back to the fuse block, or might there be an unused connector under the warning lights, for example? Would the tach (and possibly clock) have to come from 06 Cabrio CDI, or would any other Smart tach work?
  2. Yes, thanks. That Evilution write-up also failed to list the full specs of the 451 "Design 3" rear wheels that didn't fit a 450 without spacers. Although someone presumably knows the width and diameter of the "Design 3" alloys tried, it's not mentioned in that write-up. The article does mention rear offset was 34mm vs -1mm for stock 450, so fitment on a 450 would obviously be exacerbated by that plus any increase in wheel width. However, I understand that the Passion 9-spokes we'll try are only 22mm offset with 5.5" width (same width as 450 steelies, which also makes me think Evilution's Design 3 alloys were probably wider than 5.5"). Edit: Oh, the info was elsewhere on their site. This Evilution page actually lists the 451 wheel specs. https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=wheels&mod=1087 As expected, the Design 3 wheels they tried were, in fact, also significantly wider at 6.5". This other page shows stock fitments of various 450 wheels that actually came on 450s. https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=wheels&mod=513 Back of napkin calculations some of the widest ones leaves me thinking that there's plenty of room for the 2008 Passion 9-spoke wheels we'll try (called "Design 2" per the above 451 link), even if they ultimately don't look as good due to failing to fill out the rear wheelwells.
  3. Thanks. I've heard different stories on that, and think it must depend on which of various OEM 451 wheels and tires were tried on 450s. When they do fit, people rarely complain. So we just hear about the ones that didn't fit and unfortunately no one's actually posted specs that did or didn't fit. The 451 wheels we're hopefully getting are just the standard 15" 9-spoke Passion alloys, which will be an upgrade for us since our 450 Pure has two sets of stock steelies. I've read the fronts are 1/2" wider (at 4.5"x15 vs. 4"x15) with 3.5mm less center offset (ET23.5 vs ET27) but definitely fit 450 too. I believe these particular 451 rears are 5.5x15 ET22 versus the stock steel 450 rears at 5.5x15 ET-1. With same sized tires, that puts the inner edges about 23mm further in, which should be correctable with spacers. I'm prepared to order 20mm to 1-inch hub-centric spacers if we have to (especially since readily available longer VW FWD 4-lug grade 12.9 racing studs should fit), but I've heard from at least one guy who's tried many 451 wheels on 450s and says most similar-sized 451 wheel/tire combos (e.g., same diam and width wheels AND tires) do clear the 450 rear despite the different offsets. I guess we'll find out soon enough, and I'll certainly post up.
  4. Thanks Mike. We hadn't installed a ScanGauge yet, but had scanned DTCs (and attempted unsuccessfully so far to read the flash) with a variety of cables, including a CAN-capable one set to dumb mode IIRC. No idea what folks had used in the 6-12 months that it languished just before we got it, but the p.o. did say it had been scanned. Not sure now what I should use to read the flash, but we'll avoid using the CAN-capable cable in the future for simply reading DTCs. We found a used rear 450 Cabrio fender (unfortunately it's red instead of metallic grey) with complete Canadian side-marker light housing at a salvage yard last weekend, and hope to pick up some clean 451 alloys this weekend. I've decided not to deal with installing the new glow plugs just yet, so we're taking it off the road for the winter. Once we make room in the garage, the plan is hunt down the power issue (currently suspect a boost leak) and make it nice before spring.
  5. Something bizarre happened today. I topped off the diesel fuel for only the second time since purchase. It took 3.07 gallons (= 11.6 liters) for, get this, 4610 kilometers (= 2865 miles) according to the odometer (no chance of mis-remembering as I took pictures at both fill-ups). I believe I actually drove only about 200 km. I just took it out for a 38 km trip (per Google maps) and it registered the 38 km accurately. Interestingly, the previous owner really seemed to think it only had 80-something K km on it and appeared dumbfounded but very apologetic when I noted that the odo was at 169K kms. I didn't know what to make of that as everything else she told us turned out to be accurate, and simply assumed she'd mixed it up with another car. I know there had been multiple unsuccessful jump-starting attempts, but none since we've started driving it. Unfortunately, I've already reported 169K to the SAAQ at registration. Any idea what could be going on with the odo?
  6. That explains it, thanks. Excellent mod!
  7. IAT: Thanks smart142! It's raining here today but I'd like to order a new intake air temperature (IAT) sensor now without going out to lie in the mud. eBay listings show two different styles, one with two tabs and a cage, and another without the tabs or cage. Anyone know which is right for a 2006 cdi? Boost: Thanks Nigel, I'll look into the Scangauge II, and I'll definitely check the wastegate arm as you suggested (after the rain lets up). Flash: Thanks tolsen. I don't have a full version of WinOLS (prefer free tools), but at least that damos should help me see what's already there using the trial version. I'm having trouble reading the current ECU flash. I tried scanning the ECU's 95P08 (correct?) flash memory with several different cables, software tools, com ports, baud rates, and even dropped the latency timer from 16 to 2 msec. I tried with key on, key off, and even while running but no luck at all. Is there a particular trick to this one? What's worked in the past? Bulbs: Last night, we went through replacing all the Cabrio's burnt out bulbs in the front and rear lights (still have to do one of 5 in the center third brake assembly, and the front side markers which I'd like to convert to side/turn), and found a couple of oddities. 1) Although Canadian tire lists single-filament, the front signal lights in the grille actually take double filament bulbs (due to double base and offset twist tabs), which usually means parking lights, but the second filaments never light up. What are they supposed to be for? This is Canada so the headlights are always on anyway, but we're curious. 2) The rear tail light bulb socket plate on the left (part number ending with L) and the one on the right (part number ending with R) seem to be on the correct sides although they may interchange. The R plate has circuitry to light up the top two bulbs as tail lights, but the L plate only has circuitry to light up the top bulb as a tail light. If it were the opposite, I'd assume the extra was for a rear fog marker, but the extra bulb on the right makes no sense to me (unless. perhaps, the rear fog provision was for UK only). The top bulb is double-filament and also operates as one of the two brake lights, while the lower right one is single filament so it's definitely only a tail light. Thoughts?
  8. Thanks folks! It sounds like we have some performance-hindering issues to resolve before I move on to tuning. The check engine light was on after the highway run, and the OBDII codes were: P0113 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High P0380 - Glow Plug/Heater (Q6) Circuit: Malfunction P0238 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High A full DTC reset and then cycling the key without even starting reproduced the first two (P0113 and P0380). Starting and idling didn't add any. I'll see what I can do about the intake air sensor once I locate it. Is it in the airbox, tubing, or manifold? I believe I've got 2 of 3 bad glow plugs, but assume that wouldn't make any difference once it's running. No idea how we triggered the P0238 with presumably stock tune during the highway run, unless maybe that sensor's bad too.
  9. Oops, my apologies for responding to such an old post. No advertising intended. Our alternator was thoroughly seized and corroded, and the shop I mentioned simply made quick work of it. I've saved it and might bring it to an electrical rebuild specialist at some point, but if they're still $150 brand new on eBay the next time I need one, I'm not sure I'd bother. What would be cool is to figure out how to better protect it from the elements. Ours isn't going to be driven in winter, although I suspect the previous owner did, so hopefully we won't have to worry about this particular issue again.
  10. Normand Corneau Auto in Mcmasterville can be reached by the 810 train from Gare Central Station (downtown Montreal), which stops just a 3 minute walk from his shop. Normand knows Smarts inside and out (so fewer hours spent) plus his hourly rate is reasonable.
  11. Does this ever happen? We're in Montreal...
  12. She's alive!!! That was the main starting problem, thanks! The alternator was definitely seized. Now looking for a Mk1 (450) left rear fender, ideally in metallic grey, to help make this little machine look presentable. Our top flat-road speed on the maiden voyage was 100 kph (reached in 5th, couldn't maintain in 6th), which we can't quite consider "safety fast" where traffic moves at 120-130 kph. Is 100 kph about right for a stock 40.5 hp cdi engine? What's the stock boost pressure on these? Anyone know of a boost gauge that compliments the interior? Also looking for a .kp or .xdf definitions file so I can start fine-tuning our ecu.
  13. Second! Normand is excellent and he knows these cars inside and out. Although his shop is in Mcmasterville, QC, it's easily reached directly by train (SH 810) from downtown Montreal, QC.
  14. Thank You! Thanks. Why's it called "SAM"? I had pulled and checked every fuse on the underside. All but one (due to damaged side marker) were good. But do you mean the connector pins on the top side? Wow! That's a lot more pressure than I'd realized. Ok, I guess I won't be physically trying to check that. Thanks very much for the timely info. I'll definitely check alternator rotation next time out. Thanks! Would that retrieve more detailed Smart-specific codes than my generic OBDII cables? I'm used to VCDS and Nefmoto in the well-supported VW/Audi world, but I've read something about a MB scanner called Xentry that may be Smart-compatible and, if so, seems interesting. I'll look for one or both of those next time out, thanks. I did pop the air cleaner cover and found that I could push the filter element forward enough to suirt WD-40 into what I assumed was the intake tube (hmm... unless it was a warmed air source) at the back. Didn't seem to make any difference when sprayed either before or during cranking, though.
  15. Girlfriend decided it was cute and that I needed a new challenge. New to both Smart and diesel. Bought it today with 169K kms. Previous owner reported new turbo and exhaust last year, but that trans wouldn't shift past 2nd (three horizontal bars in display) and parked it. Gauge shows 2/5 tank of diesel. Cranks but can't get it to start, even after trying a used spare trans module. Only OBD codes are for glow plug circuit and intake air temp, but I assume those wouldn't keep it from starting this time of year. We even tried pull-starting it according to https://www.evilution.co.uk/169 (although I managed to get it into 2nd rather than 1st) which chirped rear tires when electronic clutch engaged but I still didn't hear or feel a single cylinder firing. I'm thinking it must be fuel pump related and/or a sensor that affects fuel pressure. I do hear the low pressure pump running upon initial key turn. What sort of pressure should be at the rail? What's the best scan software for these? Could also use a few used parts including LR fender, driver's seat, alloy wheels, a few trim bits (e.g., plastic cover at antenna base). Any/all thoughts appreciated!