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About o2bad455

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    Montreal, QC
  1. I suspect the oil will seep down and mix with the small but steady amount of soot that still penetrates with pressure waves. I think it will do much the same, clog up, limit the poppet motion and throw a code. By far the best blocking point is at the turbo, with or without the EGR still sitting there. I rotated our EGR cartridge 180 degrees 1-1/2 years ago (that's what I meant by "notch up" in my May 13, 2019 post). Works great and once the code was properly cleared it never came back! Stock ECU firmware AFAIK.
  2. Nice, thanks! I guess that pin 8 to pin 7 connection is probably what was bumping our odometer when I'd connected with various cables from other toys back when we first got our '06 Fortwo Cabrio Pure. Having done everything else I can think of (including numerous wastegate adjustments to within a quarter thread of limp mode), I'd love to finally sort out our 0.8L CDI's flash. You've just motivated me to try again (perhaps after buying a dedicated KWP2000+ cable just for the Smart and clipping that pesky bridge to pin 8). More when it arrives ...
  3. Ah, thanks. No, I haven't been affected either AFAIK. Not sure about cost. Do you mean for hosting or for coding? The site itself is already available as https (considered secure), it's just that the login script reverts to http (considered insecure). Seems to me that it might just be a coding issue, but I'm no expert. I did determine that the site may be hosted near Vancouver, BC Canada, so VPN'ing closer to there may at least reduce the opportunities for interlopers.
  4. Very interesting, thanks! I can now see what you meant about the built-in bearing race on the hub. I wonder if that applies to the bearing housing as well, or could a more standard unit bearing be pressed into and/or circlipped into that 4-bolt housing (for fitment with a hub matching the new bearing)? If not, I think finding a hub/bearing combo with the same mounting pattern of bearing housing to upright might be worth a look. I've seen many with that basic 4-bolt pattern, although likely different dimensions. I noticed some parts on the 450 seem to have come from the VW parts bin (e.g., front strut bearing mount), which makes sense considering the early history I'd read in the Lewin book. I bet that bearing housing bolt pattern might possibly be the same as VW Polo (different from VW Mk4), which, unfortunately, we didn't get here in North America. When I have time, though, I might just head off the boneyard with a Vernier caliper to see what's out there. A bonus would be the same 24-tooth (? diam.) CV to hub spline, or at least the same 33(?)-tooth (? diam.) half-shaft to CV spline. On a side note, my browser has started warning that the login to this site, even using https, is no longer secure such that user id and password may be vulnerable. I had to switch browsers this morning just to log in. I'm logged in now, but if I get disconnected I probably won't login much more until that can be addressed
  5. No chance. From various parts lists, it looks like 450 (and I think 451 as well) hubs are 28mm (i.d. of wheel bearing), while 453 hubs are 37mm (i.d. of wheel bearing). Also, as tolsen mentioned, the splines are apparently different. I have done some sleuthing, and it looks like the bearing, and therefore probably the hubs (although not necessarily the splines) may be interchangeable with some Peugeot and Citroen hubs. Unfortunately, I don't know for sure, and also don't know what bolt patterns those had. Anyway, there's no more rush as the ice race was cancelled (apparently for the first time in over 50 years) due to insufficient ice (i.e., global warming). Actually, if there's anything else out there with the same spline, they could probably be turned down (and ideally heat-treated) to potentially work. Huronland mentioned above that some have fabricated hubs for 451 cars, which *might* be the same hubs as 450 although I haven't compared them.
  6. Without having measured or tried yet, my guess is you're probably right that I could find a way to bolt up most of the 453 front corners onto the 450, but that the rear would be more difficult. Having once done something similar on VW Mk1 with VW Mk2/3 parts (Mk1 lower A-arm and upper strut hat, with everything in-between from Mk2/3), though, it might really throw off the suspension geometry. I got horrendous bump-steer on the experimental VW and had to swap back after the first test drive. Not so sure about the 453 rears onto the 450, either, but I'd definitely consider your weld-on idea for that, thanks! Too bad I don't have any steel adapters already on hand, or I might have been able to try that one in time. I woke up with two more ideas this morning. Not sure if either is workable but here goes: 1) If I could find some 5x112 in 13" (probably a pipe dream) and/or 14" (possible, I think), perhaps I could drill two extra lug holes in the wheels and go that route. Anyone know which small diameter 5x112 13" or 14" wheels I might find? Something like mid-80's GM rings a bell, but unfortunately the local bone-yards don't usually have any stock nearly that old. If I could find some, though, there might actually be enough time to try this idea today! 2) Another option could be making custom 13 or 14 inch wheels out of Smart steelies (e.g., cut out the centers, trim down an inch or so, and weld into some sufficiently narrow (for ice racing) new outers from one of the race wheel manufacturers in the desired diameter. This could only be another option for next year, though.
  7. Ah, thank you! If it were just the CV to hub splines, I assume there'd be some way to fit outer CVs to match, but perhaps there's not enough backside clearance in the 450/451 uprights/carriers for the 453 CV to fit (e.g., base of spline usually matched to just less than o.d. of bearing). I've since checked some online parts specs and the bearings for 4-lug 453 (37mm i.d., ?? o.d)) are much larger than for 3-lug 450/451 (28mm i.d., ?? o.d.), although at least 450/451 seem to take about the same bearing. Unless there's a hybrid bearing that might work (e.g., cylindrical instead of ball with larger i.d. and smaller o.d. Not sure what the 450/451 vs 453 wheel bearing o.d.'s are yet, but it looks like it would take serious machining even if the 453 hubs/bearings could be made to fit the 450/451 carriers. I'm considering this a dead end, unless swapping much more over would work (e.g., suspension uprights and all, but I've probably not got enough time for that either). Perhaps if I had more time, but I guess you're right as far as adapters for our immediate needs.
  8. Ah, thanks! I was hoping to swap out as little as possible, basically just the hubs (if the rear spline's the same), front rotors and rear drums. I'd hope to re-use the 450 front calipers and ideally rotors (re-drilling rotors is not an issue, versus hubs which would be a no-no from what I've read), but wouldn't mind cutting down the 453 rotors to fit the 450 calipers if needed. I guess my first question should rightfully be whether the 453 hubs will bolt on to the 450, regardless of brakes? EDIT: Or, for that matter, if the Smart 453 hubs won't mount up to our Smart 450 carriers, are there any other readily available 4x100 hubs out there that might? No thanks to global warming, this will likely be our only on-lake ice race this season.
  9. RE: 3x112 to 4x100 hub conversion (NOT adapters) Need to convert our 450 from 3-lug to 4-lug tomorrow (Friday) afternoon so we can ice race on Saturday. How easy/difficult to swap to the 4-lug hubs from a newer model? I believe there's at least one at a boneyard within striking distance, but won;t have much time so a complete parts list would be ideal. This is mainly just for 13/14" wheel fitment, but don't have adapters and really don't want them (as certain ice conditions have vibrated even properly torqued lugs loose during an event, and adapters can make that worse). Thanks in advance!
  10. Ah, I see. That makes sense. I didn't notice if the OP mentioned his production year. We had mostly OBD1 through 1996 and OBD2 since 1997. When did European Smarts get eOBD? I guess there are pluses and minuses to having any OBD in a 450, though!
  11. Out of necessity, I've actually used other (non-MB-STAR, non-WinStar) OBD interfaces to continuously monitor and/or log boost data on our 2006 cdi (Jan 2006 production Canadian Cabrio), including old VAG-COM with generic cable and VCDS with genuine Ross-Tech cable in OBD compatibility mode. CAVEAT: Although as with ANY scan tool to be used on a 450 cdi, you should ALWAYS switch off CAN mode and/or "Intelligent" mode to minimize undesirable odometer jumps. As an aside, the odometer jump issue seems to be caused by the ECU's mileage register erroneously jumping upwards on cars equipped with ABS and/or ESP, then the erroneously increased mileage gets automatically copied from the incorrect ECU to the previously correct cluster's odometer during the next key-on (I've seen it change before my very eyes, but you have to actually watch for it), while the SAM unit may well remember the correct mileage but seems to get outvoted by the ECU. Someday I hope to read our SAM directly, possibly with WinOLS if I never get my eBay WinStar working (give up last year after several late nights), to finally figure out what our true mileage is.
  12. Wheels: The front 451 Passion wheels fit fine on our 450 Pure. The rears rubbed the stock shock dust shields but would otherwise barely clear the stock shock bodies. That said, we're in the market for a matching pair of 450 Passion rears. Recently drove hours to a Kenny UPull in Sherbrook that had three 450s, but the guy said they threw the 3-lug wheels away to make space for hotter sale items Software: My various OBD2 cables keep randomly bumping up the odometer, at least 1K per DTC clear but sometimes as much as 40K! Startted at 80K, was in the 160K range after others scanned, now in the 220K range and we've driven it roughly 1K total. Bought an outdated version of XENTRY and set it up on an old Dell D series laptop, but now the software thinks its not activated. Didn't get the multiplexer either. I guess this is going to take longer than I'd hoped. Wastegate: So, back to the OBD2 cables (odo notwithstanding), did some logging and discovered soft limp caused by 226 KPa getting hit. When in soft limp, 226 KPa holds from 3100 to 4100 but its gutless (100 KPH down to 80 on hills and can't pull 6th), but before soft limp kicks in it hits 226 much earlier in the revs (120 KPH if I manage to keep it from hitting the 226, 5th or 6th). Figured the wastegate must be working for boost to be limited so well, so adjusted wastegate pressure one turn (nuts one turn towards right) but, same issue and same exact 226 KPa. Could the ECU be cutting fuel to make it sluggish regardless of boost and ALSO limiting boost to exactly 226 KPa every time? Seems odd, but I guess possible... Previous owner said she had a new turbo installed and it does look clean, but I can't budge the shiny wastegate rod by hand. Before I resort to force, I do want to move it to the right, correct? EDIT: Yup, the waste-gate actuator is supposed to move to the right. It was a stuck wastegate! Now it's much happier albeit at just 201 KPa. I'll put the turn of adjustment back into the wastegate actuator and see where it lands. Cheers!
  13. Great thread! Spent some time visiting our 450 Cabrio this weekend with hopes of driving it this week. After wrestling with various vise-grips, resorted to a hand chisel which still didn't quite budge EGR valve cartridge so I considered re-making tolsen's or Alex's tools from the first page descriptions. Short on time, resorted to air chisel with curved tip, which made quick work of valve cartridge and only lightly nicked the aluminum housing. Cleaned it all up and re-installed with notch up to hopefully keep it that way without plates. Still had engine light on. Tried clearing code by disconnecting battery and grounding cables to each other for a minute, but either that didn't clear it or something's still amiss. Should that normally work to clear codes on 450 cdi? Didn't have scan cable but I'll try to bring one next time. Edit: Oh, our valve cartridge didn't have any o-ring (like orange viton in tolsen's pics). Not critical (I hope)?
  14. Oh, does anyone know how easy to add a stock tachometer from a higher trim model to our tach-less Pure? Will I need wiring all the way back to the fuse block, or might there be an unused connector under the warning lights, for example? Would the tach (and possibly clock) have to come from 06 Cabrio CDI, or would any other Smart tach work?
  15. Yes, thanks. That Evilution write-up also failed to list the full specs of the 451 "Design 3" rear wheels that didn't fit a 450 without spacers. Although someone presumably knows the width and diameter of the "Design 3" alloys tried, it's not mentioned in that write-up. The article does mention rear offset was 34mm vs -1mm for stock 450, so fitment on a 450 would obviously be exacerbated by that plus any increase in wheel width. However, I understand that the Passion 9-spokes we'll try are only 22mm offset with 5.5" width (same width as 450 steelies, which also makes me think Evilution's Design 3 alloys were probably wider than 5.5"). Edit: Oh, the info was elsewhere on their site. This Evilution page actually lists the 451 wheel specs. https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=wheels&mod=1087 As expected, the Design 3 wheels they tried were, in fact, also significantly wider at 6.5". This other page shows stock fitments of various 450 wheels that actually came on 450s. https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=wheels&mod=513 Back of napkin calculations some of the widest ones leaves me thinking that there's plenty of room for the 2008 Passion 9-spoke wheels we'll try (called "Design 2" per the above 451 link), even if they ultimately don't look as good due to failing to fill out the rear wheelwells.