Thegorillabear

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About Thegorillabear

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  1. glad to hear it was a relatively simple problem.
  2. Fuel quality would be my guess as well. Is it thestation you use all the time? I would start by firing in a healthy dose of diesel fuel conditioner and giving her a run to see if that works. Lonnie
  3. Good ideas. Any advice on what to soak it with? I was thinking hopps gun oil as it is designed to drawout carbon and loosen it up.
  4. So the cdi started to not want to start(long time cranking, needing a couple of cycles on the glow plugs, rough idle until it had started to warm up, unburnt fuel n exhaust) so figured 1 or 2 glowplugs have gone. Went to have then changed and the number 2 will not come out. It has cleared the threads and wiggles in and out a bit but will not come out. The guy that was doing them for me figures that one of 2 things has happened. It has mushroomed in or the more likely, it has carboned up to the point where it is to fat that it will not come out. Anybody have any ideas short of tearing the engine apart to remove this glow plug? Lonnie
  5. Replaced the missing upper alternator bolt and its absentee nut. Figured I should replace the belt while I'm at it.
  6. I know this is not a timely reply but I am adding this for future reference for others who have lost the nut or the upper alternator bolt as I had to replace both on my 06 CDI Cabrio last night. Both parts are available from MB. I paid $10.60 including tax for next day pick up. 1. I jacked the whole rear end up high enough so I could slide under the car supporting on jack stands via the body so that the engine and suspension would sag increasing access to the alternator from the wheel well. 2. Removed right side rear wheel. 3. Removed inner fender and alternator cowling. (almost 10 min involved in whole process up to this point) 4. Loosened the alternator adjustment bolt, but did not remove it so it could support the weight of the alternator and removed the old alternator belt. (this might take a bit as you do not want to be overly forceful and snap the bolt. it took me about 15 min of working back and forth and some penetrating oil.) 5. Slid the replacement upper alternator bolt into the required holes and all the way through to the other side. This made it so that it acted as its own guide for the next part. (this is possible to do without dropping the engine because a. the old bolt went missing from this hole without dropping the engine and b. I just did it last night) 6. Using a pair of super long locking forceps (between 1.5 and 2 feet long) get an assistant to hold the nut by a corner, lower the nut into place from the top through the engine service panel. While they are doing this you will need to turn the bolt so that it catches the threads and snuggs up until it can't be hand tightened anymore. Then back the bolt off about 1/4 - 1/2 of a turn so that it isn't under tension. 7. Remove the forceps, give your assistant a kiss and thank her for helping, then using something long enough to reach down from the top to the nut, rotate the top of the nut back towards you periodically giving it a light tap to the right so it slides into its proper position but stays on the bolt. I used the handle end of my breaker bar as it has a small groove all the way around right down at the end. (30 min involved at this point) 8. Once the nut and bolt have shifted to the right, use a socket to tighten the bolt up being careful not to push the bolt into the hole, but tighten it up using the threads to draw it into place. I then put on the new alternator belt, applied proper tension, tightened the alternator adjusting bolt (as tight as I could get it), and then the upper alternator bolt (again as tight as I could get it.) and put everything back together. Total time involved was just under an hour and almost 15 min of that was the time to get the alternator adjustment bolt loose. Hope this helps whoever is reading this? Lonnie
  7. I shook my head when the high speed on the wipers started to work again.
  8. +1 for what Loose Lug Nuts said. Had issues with the cabin temp on my 05 CDI so swapped out for a new thermostat and now it is toasty. On the complexity level it is harder on the hands than on the mind and can be done in an afternoon with straight forward tools. Hope that helps. Lonnie
  9. Well I need to do some work that will require me to drop both belly pans on the 05 CDI (read as upgrade horn, and rewire lights and fuel pump through relays). The last time I had to venture into that closed in little space I noted that not all the fasteners were stock. They have been replaced or MB has started to use random varied screws of various drive configurations to hold the Smart together. (read as the cursed Philips head pieces of cr.....) Does anybody know what is used to match stock or completely replace all stock that isn't going to cost me a small fortune? Also does anybody have a diagram or picture of what are stock locations for the fasteners? Even a handraulicly reproduced version would suffice. Lonnie
  10. That makes sense. Simple is better.
  11. Thanks guys. This makes sence and I figure this is well within my skill set so should not be an issue. Would you guys recomend having the relay for the fuel pump tripped by the line off the sam or should I install a master kill switch for the fuse block that would turn that off? It would end up being my own anti-theft system. Lonnie
  12. I'm not super adept with electrical related minutia. Would you be able to draw out a basic wiring diagram and provide any specificss on the relay or fuse panel you used? Lonnie
  13. Have you added any? I was thinking of just mounting a sperate switch for the low beams and using my automatic hand to control them. Perminantly wired as a circuit on its own. Lonnie
  14. So here is the history. 05 cabrio had the dim headlights issue. I changed the bulbs to oem and replaced the male sam plug. Was fine for 3 weeks then had the same issue. Pulled the sam out, had a good look at it an the male plug was toast..... again. The Pins in the female plug for the sam were very degraded for the low beams and were beyond cleaning up. I opend up the sam and had a look at the solder points and they were not good. Since i have issues with very fine detailed work I had a computer shop unsoldier then directly solder wires to the board and I then put a more robust disconect into the wire harness. It worked great until this morning (about 3 monthes after the fix) when the lights dimmed out again. My question is this. Has anybody done a workaround to properly fix this issue short of buying a new sam? I am thinking along the lines of a switch that would control the low beams only and a relay and totally bypassing the sam altogether. I love the car but the light issue is rediculious and always packs it in at the least oppritune time. Any input would be appreciated. Lonnie