BWM

Regular Members
  • Content count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About BWM

  • Rank
    Smart car owner since March 29, 2019.
  • Birthday 11/18/1958

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hanover Ont

Recent Profile Visitors

64 profile views
  1. What Willys said. Bought my 1st one this yr and it came with a parts car so technically I have two as well. Welcome to the site tobaccosand.
  2. Rock Auto $40.92 + 15.93 shipping to Can https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/smart,2006,fortwo,799cc+l3+diesel+turbocharged,1434364,engine,oil+pan,5562
  3. Yep just about everything in the engine bay is gone. On the front floor boards is everything that,s not bolted to the motor n trans. Air box, inter cooler, axles, etc. I got the parts car with my Smart when I bought it as a pkg deal. Ya can't have enough spare parts IMO.
  4. Go to CTC buy a 1/2" fine thread nut and a short bolt with threads up to the head. Got to the self help parts and see if they have an oil plug that fits the nut (older fords were 1/2" nf IIRC) or at least get a 1/2". Take off your oil empty oil pan, easy job. Drill 1/2" hole around the front edge passenger side of the pan. Clean off the paint around the hole. Stick the bolt through the hole from the inside out and hand tighten the nut on. Now weld or braze the nut only to the pan. Once cool seal using a coating of JB weld just to be sure. Remove the bolt and if you want to paint the pan. Put the pan back on the motor and if you found a pan plug put it in and tighten. If you didn't find a pan plug put the plug casket onto the 1/2" bolt and use that as your drain plug. Note doesn't work on aluminum unless you can weld it correctly.
  5. Here's a pic of my 2005 DIESEL parts car. My finger is touching the bolt just inside and under the floor pan. My running 2005 is also a diesel. In Canada you could only get the smarts in Diesel 2005 2006 not sure on 2007 Gas only 2008 and on.
  6. That's where mine were, as I cut them off and relocated them and then made the extra connections giving them a direct connection to the engine block and battery.
  7. They are about 1/3 the way across the engine bay from the drivers side under the floor pan right behind the drivers seat. Can't see them without the cover off. Before spending money on a bunch of parts that maybe the culprit try the simple things 1st. From what I read it was running fine before you changed the bad alt. I drove my smart a mile up the road to the store and back again when I pulled into the driveway found the belt laying there. So I know for a fact a smart will run without an alternator. The only thing you did was change it. There must be something else you touched or a connection isn't being made be that a ground or a plug is what I would be spending 99% of my attn towards before ever thinking a part is in need of replacing. We had a saying when I worked at an automotive electrical shop. 98.2% of electrical problems in cars are ground issues. In truth more like 2/3rds are ground issues. most of the rest is burnt or corrosion in wiring plug connectors. With an odd broken wire thrown in just to keep ya pulling out your hair.
  8. Yep gad my grounds off 3 times an cleaned each time and every time if I used a jumper wire it would start, once cleaned would run mint for 10-14 days then no start. CAN'T be the grounds I just cleaned them but take em off or jump em from bat to ground and it would start for the next cycle. Last time I ran a wire from battery to engine block with soldered on eyes. One from engine block connected and soldered to each of the six ground wires. And one wire block to a body ground point that I cleaned the paint off of body before attaching. Sealed all connections with shrink wrap and sprayed body eye grounds with battery terminal cleaner. It's been 4 weeks since I had a no start now Just because they look clean don't make it clean. I cleaned using a file then polished with sand paper. Even though the main ground cable looks good and the connections triple cleaned I believe it's my main culprit hence the added grounds. Take a booster cable and jump the battery to engine block and add a jumper from there to your cluster of ground wires. Mine would try to start but didn't at the 1st try just a cple jugs then nothing. Leave it an hr and it did it again.
  9. All of my no starts have been due to bad grounds in the engine bay. I hooked a ground wire direct to the battery and then the engine block, with a second wire from the block connection to the group of wires that are on a ground pin on the body that is on the drivers side closest to the seats once you have the engine cover off. Has stopped my no starts for now. There's a braided ground wire that runs between the motor and bumper underneth and back towards the front that there's many posts about on this forum that gets corroded or breaks apart can cause a lot of electric gremlins too even if it looks good.
  10. For you guys who want the mirror relocated. Canadian tire sells replacement rear view mirrors that glue on or there thousands of then in wreaking yards. Just remove the stock one and glue the new one onto the glass. Be sure to use the correct glue, CTC and others sell it or go to an auto glass shop and they will glue them on for a small fee. The new mirror would be wider, not as tall and could be set a lot higher. I'm sure something could be done to the factory mount to make it look better.
  11. My favorite era of auto design is the 1908 - 1928 and 4dr touring models at thevtop of the list Berliet was a french company IIRC, at least european made. Tell your friend he has a great looking horseless carriage there.
  12. Well I'm both new to the site and to smart cars. Back in April bought a 2005 smart one in my avatar. It was even the 1st one I ever sat in too. I've found this site to be one of the best places to get info on these little cars. Hoping it continues.
  13. As far as I know to lock the doors when running you use the button on the middle top of the dash not with the fob. Was done that way to prevent locking your keys in.
  14. I made the wind up key using 1" pipe fittings them made to top key head part from body metal. Bottom plate is to be screwed to a wall, deck etc. Spray painted it silver then clear coated. The pipe and key head just unscrews if I want it off Could use the same stand to put on a helicopter blade as well. Or make one of each and swap em out.
  15. Did an oil change and new filter on my 05. Replaced the alt. belt as the old one was pretty bad looking. Also installed a new key to keep it wound tight.