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About BWM

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    Smart car owner since March 29, 2019.
  • Birthday 11/18/1958

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  • Location
    Hanover Ont

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  1. Was a basic wagon 4 on the floor. Had a bench when I got it but changed it for a pair of aftermarket pillow back captain chairs out of a conversion van and changed the steering wheel from an Omni as it had a deeper center getting the wheel in a much more comforting position. When you spend 10+ hours a day everyday you want to be comfy as possible.
  2. My Smart doesn't have the auto shift button on the shifter and it will still upshitt on it's own around the 4200-4500 RPM mark. I've also noticed you can't upstift a gear if you're going to slow. My parts car has the auto shift knob but I'm not going to install it I prefer manual transmission over automatics any day. I drove Toronto for 11 yrs doing deliveries in 3 different manual trans cars averaging 500 km daily. My K car wagon 2.2l was still running at 850,000 kms but the body was falling apart.
  3. Sounds like he's got a 62 Studebaker Hawk last yr for this body. 62 was also the 1st yr of the Avanti which was a fiberglass bodied 4 seater sports car.
  4. It sounds to me you have an issue with the wiring from that plug back to your ignition switch or the ignition switch it's self. On a dum note are you unlocking the doors with your fob before trying to start. The Smart has an immobilizing feature that resets in 10 mind and must be over ridden even if you haven't locked your doors after it resets in the 10 mind from the last starter attempt. I've just got into the habit of hitting the unlock button everytime I get in the CDs at now. My key hasn't been out of the ignition since April as it's use is for getting around the campground here and trips to places I have no worries about anyone doing things they shouldn't.
  5. Only did this once but left my Smart in 1st and I think it showed 3 bars. Can't confirm as mine is buried away till spring with no battery in it. Have to turn on the key step on brake to get back to N. If it was in gear and moved to N without using the brake or the key on it still considered the car in gear, to clear key on foot on brake move shifter into gear then back to N. It maybe that simple.
  6. Should have thought of a seized alternator as well in my above post. My 02 Jeep Liberty sort of got forgen this summer since I bought the Smart. Long story short I went to start it last week after 4+ months of it sitting and the alt was seized but it did start and burn't the belt off. Some on here think working on Smarts is tight try changing the serpentine belt on a Liberty with the heavy haul cooling pkg, there is no room at all to work in there, plus with all the skid plates and shrouds it required removing the rad to put on a new belt. Took me just over 2 hours for what should be a 10 min job.
  7. Can't answer your question on continuity but on the no sign of engine turning over, I would check the small wire on the starting motor. That wire has a spade connection and is prone to corrosion it's also the wire that signals the starter to work. Next would be to clean your grounding wire connections which are also a common problem culprit with Smarts. There's also an over looked braided ground cable that fails running off the block and connects to the swing arm as it's not covered it just falls apart.
  8. The blower motor resistor Is probably burn't out. On most other vehicles the register slows down the speed of the fan giving you multiple speeds. Once it gets burned out or in a non working state it'll only allow the fan to work on high, this way you still at least have a fan working. I don't know where on the Smart this is located but it's normal close to the fan motor in the air duct as it also uses the movement of air to keep them from over heating. Most are normally found up under the dash. Will be a plug with 3-6 wires on a rectangular like plate screwed onto the plenum somewhere. I've also seen them in other shapes but rectangle is most common.
  9. Tell em you've got 300 in labor on it all ready and you'll get him out of it for what he's got into it 200. His choice then 200 and he's even or 3 for your time going over it now he needs 500 to be clear n free. I bet he'll take the 2. I'm sure you can get more from parts or get it running and sell for more and make some profit.
  10. I've read in other forms that if you have a turbo diesel you don't need a muffler as the turbo quiets it down enough. I have no personal knowledge of this as my smart is the 1st turbo I've owned and it's still stock as far as I know.
  11. How loud is that.
  12. I agree Also if the sam has been replaced it my have gad this issue before check the plugs that connect to the Sam for corrosion
  13. Welcome aboard. As to having it checked, if you're not familiar with any vehicle you're going to buy having it checked over by a professional should at least give you what needs to be done now as well as things to be aware of for the future. Asking them questions as to standard maintenance schedules should give you an idea towards future costs. Good luck and many miles of safe n fun motoring in your future on this pending purchase could depend on what they discover.
  14. As it's a wet road only issue the traction control will will trigger with anything over a 2-3% difference in wheel speeds IIRC. I trigger mine all the time on wet roads and parking lots.
  15. Yes the white thing is a protector from crush and helps to keep seal in shape but I'm assuming it's purpose. Have only ever got one seal that had one included.