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About BWM

  • Birthday 11/18/1958

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    Hanover Ont

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  1. Over on the Jeep site they have found on some models they can disable the auto shut down and alarms using a universal TV remote. My 93 Wagoneer can be done this way not sure on the Liberty. My point is if a theif wants it short off encasing it in a block of concrete it'll be gone Thank fully the 05 06 aren't really in their sites to steal. Besides nothing can't be unbeatable if you're determined enough.
  2. Didn't know Can made them mandatory But from my research most NA sold cars use a smart chip that the car reads automaticly and the average person doesn't know they even have one till they try to get a spare key. Talked to a cple people today only 2 knew about them and one had a key taped under his dash so he didn't ave to worry about loosing his only chipped key. My insurance company didn't know it was a requirement here and she's going to get back to me, they are one of the largest in Can. My point still stands this set up is a very poor design IMO. Om my smart the key must be out of the ignition to disable the immobilizer with the FOB. I'll jst have to live with it till I find a work around, as it's a 2005 and Can brought this into effect for 07 it shouldn't matter to them. Most cars finish their life with me as I run them till they aren't worth fixing them anymore. I average 600-800,000 on most of them doing all my own repairs too. I'm known for buying junkers and getting the most out of them either parts or driving. Thanks for the info.
  3. pm sent

  4. Might be over in the UK tolsen. All three of my alarm equipped ones will shut down in a few seconds if the alarm was set and not shut down before starting but they don't come on by themselves. At one time Insurance com gave a discount if you had an alarm on your car I installed hundreds if not thousands when I worked in the after market custom places. Once they found out even extreme high end units could be disabled by professional thieves in seconds it became a non issue. When I was running tow truck we had kits to get into locked cars. Most times I could get a car door unlocked using the kit in about 5 to 10 seconds and I'm slow. With the smart the door skin can be removed quickly even with the door closed and window up giving total reach to all inside. Remember cars get stolen mostly to be striped for parts. Total sales of smart cars over here wouldn't make one yrs sales of Dodge mini vans or Honda Civics or a hundred other models thieves can sell parts from, there's just not a demand for parts except us smart enthusiasts. Smart sales over there and Europe would total a lot more than here in any yr I assume without actual figures. Here most were bought at the beginning because it was the new cool car some because of fuel mileage. I always wanted one but other than replacing the wife's golf cart and the smart 1/2 what a replacement cart would be. Yes she has her license that she kept up she's terrified of just being in a car and I'm hoping she'll get over that she's even afraid of driving the golf cart. Had her out in the lane today she got 50 ft 1st gear and stopped What ever happened did so before I knew her and she won't tell me not going to push either. I maybe barking up a path she'll never go down but she really needs to be able to drive in case of emergencies. We're just to far out to get fast response time from fire, police and paramedics. Any how my problem is there's no way to disable the immobilizer except by the FOB. What happens when we can't get replacement FOB's There's plenty of parts no longer to be bought for even newer cars with even higher build numbers than these ones.
  5. Ok lets talk alarms here. If anyone thinks an alarm will stop a thief think again 4 guys can pick a smart car up into a trailer in 10 secs and gone if wanted. As to modern cars all having them yes but all I've seen you can control them. My 92 Jeep wagoneer the alarm is set with the FOB double click on the lock off when unlock with FOB or by unlocking the door with a solid steel key. I don't have the FOB and that Jeep has 200 more electrical systems that wouldn't fit inside a smart in pieces, I have so many battery drains I just use a battery disconnect on it which arms the alarm on reconnect. Just jump the two wires in a door and it no longer works. It's my plow truck only. 2003 Jeep Liberty again 2 clicks on FOB to arm unlock key or FOB to disarm doesn't reset alarm if battery disconnected. 2012 f450 King Ranch again same as Liberty. All 3 have an auto shutdown if the alarm is set by the user. Who ever thought having an automatic set you can't shut down with nothing but the FOB was smoking some good stuff. Just think what happens if your 400 miles from home and for some reason you break the FOB and the closest dealer is 200 miles away. A way to disable it would be a huge benifit. I could come up with other reasons too even just being out and breaking your FOB do you carry both all the time I'll probably buy a blank and glue the FOB to the dash so it can't be lost or broken. Have no fears here for theft and I have no need to lock my doors anywhere we go. To me this is a dumb idea that a high end company like MB could have done more user controlled not car mandated you have to use. Thanks for your info I will find a work around someday.
  6. I'm 5 hr's from Ottawa 4 hrs to London It's 2 hrs to the closest MB dealer. I would like my own star system or a program I could put on a laptop to do my own programming. At the moment I have but one key getting others isn't my issue but I haven't plated it yet and it might be awhile till I do which means till then I need to borrow a trailer and hauling it to anywhere to get programming done. Add that to the fact I don't need or want this starter lock out. I'm sure I could add a $4 push button from CTC and direct wire to the starter and bi pass it totally but that may not bi pass the alarm if it has one as it has never beeped while using anything. I'ld like to just put my key in, start and go. It's going to be hard enough explaining glow plugs to the wife once she starts driving it. If it's that hard to shut off I'll just have to deal with her learning it as part of startup along with the glow plugs but in warm weather that's not as much an issue she won't drive if there 2 snow flakes or rain drops in the air or in the dark. Most on rd use will be done by me as anything is 30 mins away from us in any direction so it would be cheaper to run than the Jeep or pick up for small things. She only goes about a 1/2 mile around here to visit her friends that she does on a golf cart now, but that's shot. She's already afraid the Smart Car is to big to drive. See my problem here. Till she's ok with this It won't be going on the rd. I've been working on cars and tractors for 45+ yrs so not afraid of doing my own work. So is there a simple way to disable the start interuptor.
  7. ok after looking on mister dog com that plug in switch is for ESP not the anti theft or starter interupter. this us the switch I refferenced
  8. Not sure of of the proper term. But can you disable the start interupter. The one I mean is when you need to hit the unlock button on the FOB after 10 min approx in order for the starter to work. I really don't require this were I live haven't taken a key out in yrs here. Think I saw a switch you can plug into the OSB2 plug that does that, I remember a topic that said you could jump two pins there to do the same thing but can't find that post now Again thanks
  9. Ok here's todays update. Went down to try a bunch of things and I started by looking over the parts car as the air filter housing is sit there on the floor and I wanted to see how it mounted so I could remove mine. Also the SAM has been unplugged and laying there to. All the pins in all the plugs look really clean too. Any how after looking a bunch of things over I go over to this one unlock it, turn on the key, glow plugs take about a min to shut off, turned the key to start and it fired right off. I've driven, shut it down and restarted it at least 50 times even let it sit an hr and it started. Took it for a run up the drive n back which is about 1km I've got about 5 km of driveways here to run on (200 acres of bush). Did an other scan got 3 new codes. P 0380 glow plug heater circuit (Without testing they seam to be working) P 0003 reading signals from your fuel pressure regulator. P 0403 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. I then erased the codes and drove it around a bunch of times and shut it down n restarted and did a scan most every time and got no codes from all of them. I've put 27 kms on it here today and never got a code to come up again So don't know why it wouldn't start the past two days or what caused it. I will be cleaning all the grounds and Ill do as many plugs with cleaner and seal them with dielectric grease too. While it was running I wiggled every plug that was seen motor area by the battery and on the SAM to see if it would shut down and nothing happened. Hopefully it'll start tomorrow. Thanks to all who responded and to many other posters Ive spent a lot of time reading a lot of posts, got a lot of great info.
  10. As to that grounding point I seen them today as I'm paying a lot of attn to the details. It looks to me like someone past took them off and used crimp on connectors to replace the factory ones, going to check the parts car to confirm, but the do look corroded up to me so I'll be addressing them before unplugging the ECU. I need to get some contact cleaner as well as dielectric grease 1st. I'll include this question here. As I have the parts car, it has the air filter as well as the box by the battery and the SAM in it can I remove all 3 and put them in the good car without programming them. They should already be set to work together. Its only a thought that was asked by my buddy as hes done the same on other cars he's worked on. also plan on doing that wire harness I've seen mentioned in a bunch of topics in front of the battery I do have solder a gun and shrink tubes.
  11. No idea on that Nigel. The guy I got it from bought it last fall. It was delivered on a flat bed with the parts car. He bought it for his brother but said brother now doesn't want it. Where it was parked there was snow around it with no foot prints any where near it. He walked over unlocked the drs turned on the ign waited for glow plugs it rolled over about 3 4 times and was running. All he wanted was his money back. He also stated he had no history towards it as he bought off an estate sale again because his brother wanted it but didn't have the funds for it. He didn't even know the parts car was part of the deal till but were dropped in his driveway.
  12. I'm not sure of the location of the high pressure pump. Only had this car since Friday night and the longest it's sat in the same spot is since the no start. But on that note when I looked it over it ran there for about 30 mins while looking it over and did look under the back for leaks and saw none and no drips either. Once home I did a quick look under the back and didn't see anything then but was rushed because I had to grab the trailer and go back to get the parts car it was dark when I got back. I drove it that night again a cple times (hey it's a new toy) but it never got parked in the same place. While I was under it while jacked up nothing got my attn as to anything leaking it's actully very clean with not much dirt or grease n oil sludge under there. Once I know the location of the high pressure pump I'll look closer for leaks. thanks forvthe part # for the fuel filter I'll check my local CTC for it or NAPA were I have an account.
  13. Ok went down did a scan 2 codes came up. p0600 ECU has lost the connection Good possibility if the ECU is on the air breather had to unhook the wires off the back clip on the air box and tucked them down below a bit to clear clip I may have disturbed something. It did however start after putting air filter back together and wasn't touched again till after no start. p0087 smart car Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low Could that be caused by a blocked fuel filter or because the ECU lost connection. The above 2 codes came up right at the start key on had not tried starting. Tried to start it again no go did a re-scan same 2 codes. Disconnected battery 5 mins hooked back up re-scan showed same codes. Tried restart no go. Did a code clear on scanner tried starting no go I went back and wiggled but still not unplugged both plugs on air filter, I'll be unplugging them tomorrow to look for corrosion. There's a box on the frame right side front of the motor wiggled them too. Still no start. Did another final scan no codes now that it's been cleared. I turned the key off and disconnected the scanner after each scan. Then turned key on and waited for glow plug light to go out before attempting a start. Wasn't fast enough to get pic of glow light on in a dash pick but did a pic every time and after looking at all of them they all have the same lights and info showing so only putting in one pic of that. Took a pic of the battery area pic 6 but have done nothing there except the neg battery term being taken of and reconnected. You can see the water light in pic 2. pic 3 box on right side frame rail. pic 4 air cleaner. pic 5 is the whole engine area.
  14. I'll look for that thread Gibby but I can hear the pump running but it's also a thought. I'm assuming you mean the low pressure fuel pump. Check my next post for codes.
  15. Well in reality other than checking fluids I never touched any connectors and that was before it was started to be moved to the shop door. Once there the jack went under the front end raised up so I could look over the front end and see between tire and fender to see the struts, my fingers never touched anything. Then to the back, jack was placed under the trans axle and lifted car, put card board on the ground as its sopping wet and slid under with trouble light to look things over I touched nothing didn,t even hook light onto anything just looked eyes only no fingers, as my mission was to see if I could find the filter and clean it which I couldn't see got out from there to do more research dropped the car back down. Then I pumped up tires and got in to go back to the house with no start. As stated my jack is touchy 1/16 th of a turn will drop it pretty quick but I don't think it would be that hard the holes in my lane should have been harder on it driving to the shop and it started twice there, once just a start before I did any thing and 2nd to move it closerbto the door to fill tires and make it closer the jack so I didn't have to move it as far trough the slop. After the no start I've wiggled and pushed on almost every connection I could see in the engine compartment at least 3 times but none have been unplugged by me ever to this point. I was going to check the plugs near the battery but buy then the battery was almost dead. So came home to research this and the fuel filter location. Got my OSB 2 reader back from my buddy its a cheap one from princess auto but it will give codes. Previous owner took out the ABS fuse so that light is on and there's two wrenches on the screen beside the fuel bubbles when it was running plus the water light by the tack. A lot of lights came on when you turned on the car before it quit but I was more focused on the glow plug light every time to start it when it was running, a lot of them were on just didn't really look. But I don't think any other light lite up now since the no start. I'm going down shortly to plug in the OSB scanner and get which ever codes out 1st then try a start again but that's about it. May try a battery disconnect but the weather here is crappy today tomorrow looks to be warmer n dry. I'm more old school and not much on the electronics end of the newer stuff but I've dealt with them on my Jeeps and PUs and my Korean tractor which has been electricaly trouble free. I'll report back later what codes came up or if I find anything plus will take some pics. My buddy is more up on electronics and will be here tomorrow so most will wait till then.