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About BWM

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    Smart car owner since March 29, 2019.
  • Birthday 11/18/1958

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  • Location
    Hanover Ont

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  1. The Milwaukees are nice I've used a cple but expensive. I'm to invested in Makitas and find they have a good line. My 1/2 Makita gets a lot of work and has removed a lot of CV nuts over the yrs. Still not cheap but I can source them in a lot of places locally. It's 45 min drive to the closest place I've found for Milwaukee stuff and they don't handle the full line. Have 1/2" drill, 1/4" impact, 1/2" impact, 1/2" hammer drill, sawzall, jigsaw, circular saw, grease gun, angle grinder and shop radio all in Makita. Only thing the compressor is used for is tires and blowing off things anymore, the air tools sit in a drawer.
  2. Have a great Christmas everyone. And I'm hoping Santa has too many others to keep track of then me, if not I'm doomed.
  3. Mounting it there would get a ticket from the popo for blocking the license plate light or under lighted plate as it's been moved down out of the coverage area. With it up on top I can normally find mine in the parking lot quickly just scaring the lot looking for the key. All bets are off on that though if a SUV, van or P/U blocks the view.
  4. Welcome to the site. As Willys said they multiply when I bought mine I inherited a parts car too. You might find an owners manual from a wrecking yard car but a repair manual is something that's not available to us owners in N.A.
  5. You don't need to take the key out or lock then unlock to disable the immobilizer. Just hit the unlock on the cob. My key hasn't been out of the ignition since I bought it. It may have to be in the off position though to turn off the immobilizer. As for stalking there's lots that can cause it. 1st thing I would do is clean, clean and clean all grounding points on it as corroded grounding points on the Smarts is a common problem. After cleaning all eyes and body spots use dielectric grease on them to help prevent future problems. Don't forget the heavy braided ground strap from the motor to frame also a known weak point. Once you have done them then there's other more intense things to look at. This is the no cost or very little cost repair that should be done early that prevents a lot of down time. Remember repair places need to sell parts and installation charges to stay in business and love to spend your money to fix your car.
  6. Was a basic wagon 4 on the floor. Had a bench when I got it but changed it for a pair of aftermarket pillow back captain chairs out of a conversion van and changed the steering wheel from an Omni as it had a deeper center getting the wheel in a much more comforting position. When you spend 10+ hours a day everyday you want to be comfy as possible.
  7. My Smart doesn't have the auto shift button on the shifter and it will still upshitt on it's own around the 4200-4500 RPM mark. I've also noticed you can't upstift a gear if you're going to slow. My parts car has the auto shift knob but I'm not going to install it I prefer manual transmission over automatics any day. I drove Toronto for 11 yrs doing deliveries in 3 different manual trans cars averaging 500 km daily. My K car wagon 2.2l was still running at 850,000 kms but the body was falling apart.
  8. Sounds like he's got a 62 Studebaker Hawk last yr for this body. 62 was also the 1st yr of the Avanti which was a fiberglass bodied 4 seater sports car.
  9. It sounds to me you have an issue with the wiring from that plug back to your ignition switch or the ignition switch it's self. On a dum note are you unlocking the doors with your fob before trying to start. The Smart has an immobilizing feature that resets in 10 mind and must be over ridden even if you haven't locked your doors after it resets in the 10 mind from the last starter attempt. I've just got into the habit of hitting the unlock button everytime I get in the CDs at now. My key hasn't been out of the ignition since April as it's use is for getting around the campground here and trips to places I have no worries about anyone doing things they shouldn't.
  10. Only did this once but left my Smart in 1st and I think it showed 3 bars. Can't confirm as mine is buried away till spring with no battery in it. Have to turn on the key step on brake to get back to N. If it was in gear and moved to N without using the brake or the key on it still considered the car in gear, to clear key on foot on brake move shifter into gear then back to N. It maybe that simple.
  11. Should have thought of a seized alternator as well in my above post. My 02 Jeep Liberty sort of got forgen this summer since I bought the Smart. Long story short I went to start it last week after 4+ months of it sitting and the alt was seized but it did start and burn't the belt off. Some on here think working on Smarts is tight try changing the serpentine belt on a Liberty with the heavy haul cooling pkg, there is no room at all to work in there, plus with all the skid plates and shrouds it required removing the rad to put on a new belt. Took me just over 2 hours for what should be a 10 min job.
  12. Can't answer your question on continuity but on the no sign of engine turning over, I would check the small wire on the starting motor. That wire has a spade connection and is prone to corrosion it's also the wire that signals the starter to work. Next would be to clean your grounding wire connections which are also a common problem culprit with Smarts. There's also an over looked braided ground cable that fails running off the block and connects to the swing arm as it's not covered it just falls apart.