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About BWM

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    Smart car owner since March 29, 2019.
  • Birthday 11/18/1958

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    Hanover Ont

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  1. I think he's trying to lock the smart with just the key as he removed the car battery to charge it. From what I've read the actual key will only unlock the door but won't lock it manually. Someone with more knowledge should be able to confirm this. My 05 450 doesn't even allow me a key tumbler to do that if the battery goes dead I'm outta luck to gain access I have to go in thru the back hatch. In the 451's they created an easier way to get into the car buy allowing you to unlock a door with a key. Probably figured you would be doing service and wouldn't need to lock back up while repairs were done.
  2. I recall reading that the button on the shift stalk can cause problems. Do a search of the forums it should bring up some topics about this. IIRC it was an easy fix hopefully someone in the know will give their input on this.
  3. Welcome aboard. There are posters here from all around the world even though this is a Canadian site. Not sure how different your 2000 is to ours as Canada didn't get smarts till 2005. Ask anyhow there's guys on here that are very Smart savvy on solving problems.
  4. Before you get the block bored I'ld source for over sized pistons or at worse over sized rings they may be unavailable. You might be able to find custom made ones but they'll be costly. Remove the ridge and hone the block and stay with stock pistons and rings IMO will be fine. Decking the block and head will raise the compression slightly to more depending on how much you remove.
  5. I've watched a cple videos on changing the trans oil on smarts on You Tube. I agree shouldn't need changing unless fouled up. I believe the smarts came with synthetic oil in the trans from factory, if not would be the only reason to change it IMO.
  6. Even though you cleaned the grounds I still suspect them. I had to add an extra ground wire from battery to engine block then from the block to the clump of ground wires behind the drivers seat in the engine bay which has for 6 months now resolved my running problems. Before that I had cleaned them 3 times each time got me 7 to 10 days with no problems, non since I did the jumper wire. Another possibility is the engine block ground strap that looks fine but has limited conductivity might be my problem but the jump wire will take that cable out of the loop, just leave it in place or get a new cable and replace it which I'm going to due when I have a chance.
  7. If color isn't a worry coat it with BBQ paint. Mostly only comes in a matt black but there are other colors of BBQ's. Might also check out a wood stove place as there are many colors of them too. I've painted many aluminum heads using CTC high heat paint with no issues but it's gotta be clean, the oil from a finger print will effect paint on aluminum that on steel is no issue. CTC also sells a high heat clear to keep the natural look. But as stated BBQ matte black would suffice as you can't really see much of the engine in a smart. Nothing beats powder coating though. Heat transfer is handled by the coolant so no worries, if it was air cooled then I'ld consider it.
  8. When I bought my Smart the previous owner had pulled the ABS fuse. I reinstalled it and found it also controls the traction control system. Once the traction control comes into effect the ABS light and another triangle IIRC came on the speedo cluster but the system also drops the RPM's to help regain traction to the wheels. Which should explain your lack of power issue if you had any.
  9. Load test your battery could be weak or a plate shorted out. A brand new battery can be NFG freash off the shelf or any day in use from then on. 25 ah shouldn't drain a battery enough to not start a Smart When I bought mine it hadn't been started in 6 months and It fired right up on about it's 3rd revolution about the same still for cold starts it was a bit slow as I'm sure the it wasn't at full charge we also had to dig it out off the snow bank it was parked in to open a door so it had sat a while. Diodes in alternator are the most likely culprit for battery drain. Disconnect the leads off of the alt and recheck your load draw. Next is to start pulling fuses one at a time to see which one stops the load draw
  10. Again having never taken the crank pulley off of a Smart the procedure should be the same as any other engine. Remove belts, remove the center hold on bolt, use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the pully then you can get at the seal. On a Smart removing the tire n rim then the splash shield will gain working room. The seal will be a friction fit and can be difficult to remove. Be sure to give the seal a light coat of oil before installing if you put it in dry it'll shorten it's service life. Tapping it in using a socket or piece of pipe big enough around to push on the outside edges of the seal till it's completely bottomed and straight. Then reassemble don't forget the key on the crank that you have to remove to change the seal. The center bolt probably has a torque value by I don't know what that should be, most crank pulleys IIRC are in the 60 - 80 ft lbs range It's not a hard job and from changing the belts on my smart should be about an hour - 2 long to accomplish. Good luck.
  11. JACKSONVILLE, Fla. (AP) — It started as a light-hearted challenge between a Florida couple, can a Smart car fit into their kitchen? The answer: Yes it can. Patrick Eldridge parked his smart car in his kitchen to protect it from Hurricane Dorian because he didn't want it to "blow away" and to prove that he can park his car there. Jessica Eldridge said her car was already parked in the garage. To avoid cleaning their garage out, her husband proposed to park it in the house. "I said there was no way he could. He said he could," Jessica said. "So he opened the double doors and had it in. I was amazed that it could fit. He had it in with no problems." Dorian was skirting Florida's coast Wednesday, narrowly missing Jacksonville as it heads northward along the Georgia, South Carolina and North Carolina coastlines. The Category 2 storm has devastated the Bahamas, where rescue crews have only begun taking the full measure of the damage. With the car in the middle of the kitchen, Jessica Eldridge had to move around it to cook and serve dinner. "I'm hoping he will pull it out pretty soon once the wind dies down," she said. "There is room and it's not in the way but my dogs are confused by it."
  12. Not on a Smart but plenty of my cars, trucks, tractors, etc have had that oil leak. There's a seal on the crankshaft behind the pulley and flywheel. The front seal is more prone to leaking as it also has to protect from the elements too, where as the rear one is fairly well protected from outside dirt and only has to keep oil from leaking. They can dry out, harden up and crack overtime or just wear out. If you're lucky it's just gotten hard from sitting. Problem is by sitting seals can stick to the crank if not used for extended time and tear on start up making them NFG. Oil change with a seal lub additive like stop smoke may correct it by softening up the seal, but that's a hail Mary repair IMO. Front seal is simple to change, the rear not so simple. Good news is most seals are usually inexpensive.
  13. Get one of these and convert it.
  14. My bet is the cut is off a bit. My key will turn even if the battery and board aren't in the fob or even near the car. If you're lucky the cut is to high and can be corrected by filing the tip a little to correct the alignment. Before going to deep try putting in the key and slightly lifting it off bottom to see if it's cut short 1st. I have a key here that's from a different car the the fob case is nicer than my current one which has cracks. I've considered taking my spare fob and swapping both the metal key and board over as the key part is just pushed straight into the plastic and clips in. A touch of JB weld or epoxy will hold it in if the clip gets damaged. Good luck