BWM

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Everything posted by BWM

  1. I like it a lot. It'll turn every gear head it passes by for yrs.
  2. Since you are mixing oil with grease there's a product I use here in Canada called Corn head grease. It's basically grease but with a low viscosity. It gets pumped in with a grease gun but it will flow when hot. I have grease fittings on the dust caps of most of my trailers and a Coke pumps of grease every now and then has kept me from ever replacing a bearing on any of them, the boat trailer gets a shot everytime we take out the boat. Have never pushed out the back grease seal yet using this set up. I've also used this method on a number of cars and pickups over the yrs with the same results. About the only bearings on my own cars that ever got changed were front wheel drive ones that I couldn't do the grease nipple trick to them. Corn head grease can be used in a lot of places that use gear oil instead of full on grease. It's primary use was developed for corn heads on combines for the right angle gear box used to drive the head. Due to it being exposed to water and lots of dust they wear the seals quickly and the oil leaked out making them prone to early failure. Having changed one out is a 2-3 day job as the head has to be dismantled quite a ways to change it. By using the Corn head grease it kept the gear box bearings lubed without the oil leakage and now most of them last the life of the combine. I've used it now for yrs in golf cart differentials, garden tractor trans axles, right angle drive boxes and wheel bearings plus many other places as well. Still use regular grease on tie rods ball joints and king pins, gear oil in manual trans and rear automotive differentials. This is a great thread thanks for reposting it I'll be doing something similar to mine soon.
  3. I get lots of deliveries from Rock Auto done by FedEx and various other suppliers state side and never seen a broker fee from them. The only time we paid any fee was a duty fee and broker fees on some climbing gear and we were informed of costs before it proceeded thru customs and we paid the driver when they delivered it. Been getting most of my car, tractor, golf cart and snowmobile parts state side the last 10 yrs now as costs with shipping and exchange rate is about a third what it costs in Canada. Most times I can get it faster from the states than I can local as they 9 out of 10 times need to order it in and takes them 3 to 10 days to get it then I have to go pick it up. Most part I order state side is here 2 to 3 days and dropped at my door even if no one is home and the bonus is I always know where my part is by using the tracking number. Have never bought from other countries though so can't comment on that. But from the one time I had broker and duty fees they called before proceeding with costs up front before they would deliver and I just paid the driver on delivery.
  4. 3 of my diesels all old school with mechanical injectors all smoke white while starting and for a couple minutes to 15 minutes. 2 of them I've owned for over 10 yrs the worst only just got and it's the worst and the only one with glow plugs (haven't checked to see if they work yet). The colder it is the longer they smoke too. My Massey 3 cyl Perkins diesel has been cold started without being plugged in and no glow plugs at -30c. My others don't seam to suffer from this problem and they all have glow plugs and electronic controlled injectors. I'm convinced the glow plugs warm the engines enough that they don't smoke on cold starts like my older ones that don't have them. My suggestion is to check the glow plugs and if they are good cycle me a cpl times and see if that improves the smoke issue on a cold start. As to my old school smokers I'm not concerned about their dependability they have always fired up when needed without starting fluid either.
  5. When mine quit starting it was always after it had been run. In my case it wouldn't start for 3 days. Since I ran a jump ground battery to the block and then to the clump of six wires bottled to the floor pan in the engine bay between the inter cooler and motor there's been no more problems. I had previously cleaned those grounds twice, then replaced the eyes with soldiered on ones, even drilled a new hole cleaned off the paint on both sides of steel and used a stainless bolt to give a perfect ground and had the no start. Try the simple things 1st.
  6. At a press conference late Monday, the CEO of Johnson Marine, makers of Johnson outboard marine engines and other recreational equipment, unveiled a new line of heavyweight cruiser style motorcycles designed to compete head to head with industry leader Harley-Davidson. Peter Long, Johnson's Brands Marketing Manager said, "We have studied the market and determined that Harley, while highly successful, has narrowly missed the mark when targeting motorcycle buyers." Long added, "We at Johnson are convinced that our product hits the target dead center and promises to draw sales away from Harley Davidson in a way no other motorcycle has been able to accomplish."The new line of bikes, marketed under the name Big Johnson Motorcycles, will, according to Long, deliver what Harley has only promised. "Our research show that this, a Big Johnson, is what Harley buyers are really after." At the unveiling of the new line Monday, several current Harley owners agree. "When I bought my Harley, what I really needed was a Big Johnson," said one Harley owner. "But I see now that riding a Harley is no replacement for having a Big Johnson."Manager Long also said that his company would follow the lead of Harley-Davidson and cash in on a huge market for non-motorcycle related products. "We realize that not every guy can have a Big Johnson," said Long, "But image is very important to people. If they don't have a Big Johnson, they at least want to project the image of having one."Asked if he anticipated Big Johnsons showing up in the hands of Harley owners, Long said it was unlikely. "I just don't see the need to have a Harley if you have a Big Johnson," he said. "And I can't imagine someone who spends all their resources to acquire a Harley having a Big Johnson. I think it boils down to this - You either have a Harley, or you have a Big Johnson, but you are not likely to have both.""Given the choice," said Long, "I think most guys will opt for the Big Johnson."Another force driving sales for the company will come from women. A survey of the wives and girlfriends of nearly 1,000 potential motorcycle buyers indicates less than 5% would approve of their partner spending $20,000 on a Harley Davidson. But, when asked if they would be willing to pay the same amount of money to get their partner a Big Johnson, nearly 4 out 5 thought that would be money well spent.One female present at the product unveiling was quoted as saying, "There is no way I will let Lonnie drop 20 grand on another one of those Harleys, but 20 grand to get him a Big Johnson? Well, that's something we could both enjoy, and it's something he really needs."Carla Roundheel, manager of the dealership network now being established, said her motto is simple. "I service what we sell."Big Johnson Motorcycles will be traded on the New York stock exchange under the abbreviation PNSNV.
  7. Diesels sound different than gas motors. Most have a knocking noise or soon will. Smaller engines seam to be quieter than larger ones. My 3 cyl Massey 135 sounds like someone took a 1/2 can full of bolts and scraped it to the crankshaft. In 12 yrs since I've owned it and 6000+ hours on it the sound has never changed. Check out some videos of other smart diesels running to compare to what yours sound like. I've got more diesels than my Smart and 1 tractor of many makes and they all rattle, 1 cyl, 2 cyl, 3 3 cyls, 6 4cyls and a V8 all diesel. The trick with them is knowing what sounds normal and when is making a noise that's a problem. Best would be if you can find someone local with a diesel Smart and have yours running beside it to compare. Most you tube videos are lacking in sound quality.
  8. Went and picked up $1800 worth of fireworks for Canada day show at the campground. Guess I can call it a Smart bomb now.
  9. They make small trailers for motor cycles. With a little looking you can find slightly larger ones that would work behind a Smart. Guess it depends on how much you plan to tote along.
  10. What Willys said. Bought my 1st one this yr and it came with a parts car so technically I have two as well. Welcome to the site tobaccosand.
  11. Rock Auto $40.92 + 15.93 shipping to Can https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/smart,2006,fortwo,799cc+l3+diesel+turbocharged,1434364,engine,oil+pan,5562
  12. Yep just about everything in the engine bay is gone. On the front floor boards is everything that,s not bolted to the motor n trans. Air box, inter cooler, axles, etc. I got the parts car with my Smart when I bought it as a pkg deal. Ya can't have enough spare parts IMO.
  13. Go to CTC buy a 1/2" fine thread nut and a short bolt with threads up to the head. Got to the self help parts and see if they have an oil plug that fits the nut (older fords were 1/2" nf IIRC) or at least get a 1/2". Take off your oil empty oil pan, easy job. Drill 1/2" hole around the front edge passenger side of the pan. Clean off the paint around the hole. Stick the bolt through the hole from the inside out and hand tighten the nut on. Now weld or braze the nut only to the pan. Once cool seal using a coating of JB weld just to be sure. Remove the bolt and if you want to paint the pan. Put the pan back on the motor and if you found a pan plug put it in and tighten. If you didn't find a pan plug put the plug casket onto the 1/2" bolt and use that as your drain plug. Note doesn't work on aluminum unless you can weld it correctly.
  14. Here's a pic of my 2005 DIESEL parts car. My finger is touching the bolt just inside and under the floor pan. My running 2005 is also a diesel. In Canada you could only get the smarts in Diesel 2005 2006 not sure on 2007 Gas only 2008 and on.
  15. That's where mine were, as I cut them off and relocated them and then made the extra connections giving them a direct connection to the engine block and battery.
  16. They are about 1/3 the way across the engine bay from the drivers side under the floor pan right behind the drivers seat. Can't see them without the cover off. Before spending money on a bunch of parts that maybe the culprit try the simple things 1st. From what I read it was running fine before you changed the bad alt. I drove my smart a mile up the road to the store and back again when I pulled into the driveway found the belt laying there. So I know for a fact a smart will run without an alternator. The only thing you did was change it. There must be something else you touched or a connection isn't being made be that a ground or a plug is what I would be spending 99% of my attn towards before ever thinking a part is in need of replacing. We had a saying when I worked at an automotive electrical shop. 98.2% of electrical problems in cars are ground issues. In truth more like 2/3rds are ground issues. most of the rest is burnt or corrosion in wiring plug connectors. With an odd broken wire thrown in just to keep ya pulling out your hair.
  17. Yep gad my grounds off 3 times an cleaned each time and every time if I used a jumper wire it would start, once cleaned would run mint for 10-14 days then no start. CAN'T be the grounds I just cleaned them but take em off or jump em from bat to ground and it would start for the next cycle. Last time I ran a wire from battery to engine block with soldered on eyes. One from engine block connected and soldered to each of the six ground wires. And one wire block to a body ground point that I cleaned the paint off of body before attaching. Sealed all connections with shrink wrap and sprayed body eye grounds with battery terminal cleaner. It's been 4 weeks since I had a no start now Just because they look clean don't make it clean. I cleaned using a file then polished with sand paper. Even though the main ground cable looks good and the connections triple cleaned I believe it's my main culprit hence the added grounds. Take a booster cable and jump the battery to engine block and add a jumper from there to your cluster of ground wires. Mine would try to start but didn't at the 1st try just a cple jugs then nothing. Leave it an hr and it did it again.
  18. All of my no starts have been due to bad grounds in the engine bay. I hooked a ground wire direct to the battery and then the engine block, with a second wire from the block connection to the group of wires that are on a ground pin on the body that is on the drivers side closest to the seats once you have the engine cover off. Has stopped my no starts for now. There's a braided ground wire that runs between the motor and bumper underneth and back towards the front that there's many posts about on this forum that gets corroded or breaks apart can cause a lot of electric gremlins too even if it looks good.
  19. For you guys who want the mirror relocated. Canadian tire sells replacement rear view mirrors that glue on or there thousands of then in wreaking yards. Just remove the stock one and glue the new one onto the glass. Be sure to use the correct glue, CTC and others sell it or go to an auto glass shop and they will glue them on for a small fee. The new mirror would be wider, not as tall and could be set a lot higher. I'm sure something could be done to the factory mount to make it look better.
  20. My favorite era of auto design is the 1908 - 1928 and 4dr touring models at thevtop of the list Berliet was a french company IIRC, at least european made. Tell your friend he has a great looking horseless carriage there.
  21. Well I'm both new to the site and to smart cars. Back in April bought a 2005 smart one in my avatar. It was even the 1st one I ever sat in too. I've found this site to be one of the best places to get info on these little cars. Hoping it continues.
  22. As far as I know to lock the doors when running you use the button on the middle top of the dash not with the fob. Was done that way to prevent locking your keys in.
  23. I made the wind up key using 1" pipe fittings them made to top key head part from body metal. Bottom plate is to be screwed to a wall, deck etc. Spray painted it silver then clear coated. The pipe and key head just unscrews if I want it off Could use the same stand to put on a helicopter blade as well. Or make one of each and swap em out.
  24. Did an oil change and new filter on my 05. Replaced the alt. belt as the old one was pretty bad looking. Also installed a new key to keep it wound tight.
  25. Just got my 1st one a month ago. 2005 and it's a fun little car to run around in. It's a shame they are dropping them but there's so many cheaper cars getting better mileage that the Smart is only a niche market seller now then to change them to battery only reduces it's market potential even more. The masses don't want electric cars yet. They built electric cars in the early 1900's if they were so great why didn't they continue all the way through. Even electric golf carts have limits that get surpassed by gas carts, have plenty of both here and the electric carts cost more to maintain over a 10 yr run than gas. They should have kept the Smart up in the 60 mpg and it would still be selling. Just my opinion.