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Everything posted by Norway450

  1. I connected a oscilloscope directly to the inputs of the gear sensor on the ECU, see video below. First I turn the key, and it goes up the gears and back to neutral. Then I drive until I reach 6th gear. The voltages seems stable, sane and correspond to the current gear. They also agree with the raw sensor values read from "1721 Raw value B43 (Gear position sensor)". R: 4765 mV N: 4384 mV 1: 4018 mV 2: 3426 mV However, the values read from "18161 Value of turning angle sensor" seem to not correspond. R: 207 N: 129 1: 54 2: 232 (sudden jump in the opposite direction? 8bit wrap-around?) Can someone please post their values from these 2 monitors at each gear position so I can compare? Also, a gear teach in ends with an error. Summary: Sensor, wires and analog to digital converter seems to work, numbers are being garbled in the ECU program.
  2. Hi, Rolf from Norway here, I have a 2001 City-coupe. Gear box goes to 6th gear and back to N when turning the key. Usually I can then drive it without any problems, but sometimes one of two tings happen (usually in the morning): 1: It will not go into 1 or R, just making rythmic clunking noises. I have confirmed this to be the clutch servo not opening the clutch enough. 2: it will go in gear, but as soon as I press the throttle the car lurches forward. I have cleaned and checked the angle sensor, clutch servo, gear change servo and wires. Also checked the brain box next to the air filter for water ingress. I think the root cause is that the gearbox electronis does not know which gear it is in, and then goes end to end to find out. I can see the voltage drop as the gear servo hits both ends. Therefore I have ordered a new gear angle sensor. Any tips? Video:
  3. I'll check them again, and also the circuitry connected to the angle sensor (ADC). The angle sensor is new, and smooth.
  4. P1799 Actual position of turning angle sensor P2408 Transmission: Incremental sensor
  5. About the actuator I would have unscreved the motor, taken off the rubber cap and sprayed the inside with cleaning spray until the crap runs out the other hole. Then dry it with compressed air and lube it with plastic friendly lube.
  6. First, the clutch problem seem to have fixed itself. Maybe I put to much silicone grease in the cluch servo? Only the gear confusion is remaining. OK, so I went to the shop... I told them to do a transmission adaption, and to verify the output of the gear angle sensor if that is not sucsessful. The mechanic come back, saying that he was not able to due to the error codes, and that the gear change motor has to be replaced... I told him that what I had done, and that the gearbox works perfecly when driving. Then he really did not know what to to, and wanted to keep the car for furter diagnosis. I declined. I do not think he or anybody there really undestand the problem. He said that the gear angle sensor worked, but I think he was looking at the indicated gear value. But the car is usable, so I do not think I do more with it.
  7. Does anyone know how much work it is to calibrate the gear angle sensor with a star system? Or does know the procedure? I want to be prepared when I take my sweet little car to the repair shop.
  8. I finally got access to a code reader: Picture 1 and 2: Present codes before clearing them. Picture 3: Version numbers. Picture 9: Codes remaining after clearing. Currently the EGR, intake air temperature sensor and Auxillary heater is not connected. Picture 4: Codes after a failed drive off: car lurches forward. The new codes is P1917.40h (Overcurrent cutout in transmission at duty cycle >0 :Function faulure.) and P2408 (Transmission: incremental sensor) Picture 5-8: Sensor readouts. Then I disconnected and reconnected the battery, and it works without failure! I noticed before the battery disconnect and reconnect, the 1914 Actual cluch position readout where frozen at 254 (even if it clearly moved since car lurches forward when pressing the throttle), and after, when things worked, it changed as expected when I pressed the trottle. My thoughts is that there is an condition that prevents it from working, and a battery disconnect and reconnect clears it. Any thougths?
  9. Ordered a delphi ds150e. A new discovery about the get-in-to-gear problem: it seems to only happen when the engine is cold.
  10. I have now checked the wiring and replaced the angle sensor. The problem is still there. Im out of ideas.
  11. Yes, it is the wrong silicone, but it is applied after I put together. I found out many years ago when I waterproofed electronics for a R/C sea plane
  12. Thanks AHZELA and tolsen, I will take another look at the wires, and change the angle sensor.
  13. I do not know of someone with a STAR system. The fork had a small hole through, so I added a sleeve to the push rod. The threaded rod is the screw holding both the lid and the motor in place, I just drilled through and used M5 screws. I fully dismantled and cleaned the servo, so I had to drill and tap M4 bolts to keep the lid on. Also I had to fix one of the broken mounts. Despite the warnings both on the net and written on the servo, it was not difficult to remove and put back the spring inside. Here is some pictures for clarity: