Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Tut

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria bc

Recent Profile Visitors

85 profile views
  1. You're on your way to some kind of record. Any major surgery on motor to get there? freshening?
  2. Howbout that. Well, I will make a point of checking the temps and keep track. It does heat ok but it has to work to do so....thks good comment....
  3. Your system is outstanding, Nobel over to you for that one.... I think both systems accomplish the same expulsion objective. The difference is yours routes the chemistry through the combustion chamber one more time before finally gone. Both send it through exhaust pipe. I was interested in avoiding that bit of recycling with a more direct route. All going back to nature. Could be my imagination but I would swear the engine runs cooler and heats up slower since this went on. Have to run it on the highway now to get more than 62C.
  4. So after the eddymap, EGR out, emulator, and all the other preemptive mods, the catch can went in to keep little Smartie's guts clean. The breather filter on top of the can was huffing like a steam engine and creating a bit of a StinkySmart spectacle at the stoplights when white ghostly mist curled out from underneath the car after filling engine compartment. I re-routed some plumbing (joined the top and out port in a Tee) and shot the whole business out a silly little invention I thought would both re-heat the engine steam (hyper-vaporize, if such a word exists) and expel if not suck it out. It seems to work with no notice of aftermarket hijinx at the tailpipe. Im thinking if there is periodic vacuum on the steam pipe, it will draw simple exhaust and no muck can gain entry. Im going to do a few oil flushes to tidy things up and watch the oil afterwards. I did this prior to reading several involved posts on the removal of those gasses. Tolsen has nailed it but Im not Smartypants enough to build his cyclone. This might just be a cheap facsimile of a reasonable solution. Shes a happy little girl getting 80 plus mpg, almost 90 at times and seems to love life. Have I done it wrong? Curious to hear from all you Smartscientists. Cheers from Victoria.
  5. So one final post on the enduring limp mode mystery. The limp disappeared when I put the rebuilt EGR back in. The only other variable ttherefore, was the Polish emulator. I wondered if some sleepy worker put the wrong number tags on the wires for the emulator. I swapped wires around according to what might have been the easiest mistake to make and the colors of the wires and Presto! the dreaded limp vanished! So the little smart Ferrari is once again cheeky, perky and snorting around town with dangerous attitude. Thanks for all your input chaps and this is my new favorite reading of all time.
  6. I better get in touch with Stickman on emulator. Has anyone had trouble in the past with the Polish ones? I thought they were pretty dependable.
  7. Problem solved and well Willys, who IS the smartest kid on the playground... I thought before anything, do the quickest and easiest, check the integrity of the emulator with brainstorm Willys little process. Douched out the old EGR and plugged it in. The little diesel Ferrari came roaring back, angrier than ever and ready to gallop, even scared me a bit, all that roaring and pep. She immediately threw an overboost code and light limp so re-tweaked the boost arm and all is good. I am a bit perplexed, checked the pins and all seemed good. It is a Polish emulator and I've not heard bad reports on these. Anyone else had issues? Wonder if I can find him anymore... Thanks for your input, boys. This is my favorite reading now, whether or not problems are afoot. Like a good mystery novel with some light physics thrown in. tut
  8. I was able to do an Autel scan and found the only code present was a P1401-64, EGR valve sticking and not closing completely. This one was no surprise. Cleared the code and still limp mode. Now I will clean the EGR and plug it back in to see if the emulator is no good. If emulator checks out then I will sub out the AM Pressure sensor with the one from the parts car to see if the reading is identical. I pressure tested the intercooler, its good and all the hoses are good. If pressure is still no good at max 190 psi, I dunno, that seems to aim at the fan? I shall report dutifully. Also good to know the injectors are A-OK.
  9. Willys wrote: I'll bet if you are down on power you have rub throughs on the intercooler and don't see it yet. Mine was perfectly clean compared to a few I have seen with holes. So like you I didn't think it was damaged yet. It was.....JBWeld fix it...lol. For how long I can't say but far cheaper than a new one!!!! Also, if you have bad nozzles I know for a fact they make a huge difference if you change them....mender is the guy for those. They are like chicken lips and extremely hard to find.....but he has a connection and they are pricey....but again far cheaper than new injectors! Thanks Willys, I did have all the air intake system apart and pressure tested everything, I could have missed something I suppose but I dont know what... Will chase down software, fuel delivery and pin connections for the emulator. If those all check out then back to air maybe? Those nozzles sound like a good plan. I know the injectors in the parts car are good. I will pop those out and audit nozzles etc, First I have to build a tool to remove #3, the little snot is just jammed in there...
  10. Sydney wrote: One of my 05 cabrios was stuck in limp mode. There was no codes, the check engine light was on but for a faulty glow plug ciircuit. After searching and reading a bunch of forms I finally looked at the plug going to the EGR solinoid. It turns out the both end pins were spread open so they were not making good contact. I fixed the pins and limp mode is now gone. This is what I encountered, your case is probably not going to be as easy because you have already bypassed the EGR with the emulator. But you might want to have a look at the harness that your emulator is plugged into. Thank you Sydney this is an excellent suggestion! I will look at it tomorrow. My lay hunch is that it is something simple and electrical/software or that fuel delivery is compromised.
  11. Nigel wrote: Tut Your maximum MAP reading is a little low mine tops out around 215. Could be wastegate adjustment, a wastegate that doesn’t fully close, hole in intercooler or intake plumbing or weak fuel delivery. Now if you got that number when in limp mode I would be impressed. Just my two cents, I’m certainly not an expert. Nigel Nigel thank you... pretty sure there are no leaks in the intake air system, had it all apart and pressure tested everything. 190 in limp mode all shes gonna deliver. I did move the adjustment around and wasnt able to get more than 190, it did trim back a bit, though.
  12. Thank you! I was thinking I would pop the gauge off the parts car on there? Would that accomplish the end you had in mind; if readings were identical that would tell... Glad you brought up the matter of the Star. Is there a reader you can buy, I wonder. I was looking at the Star software and a Dell computer they talk about and too much tinkering around... every guy should have one, as you say. Have I heard you mention Delphi?
  13. Tolsen wrote: Tee in a pressure gauge and measure boost pressure. Invest in a Star clone if you intend to keep your Smart car. Thank you! I was thinking I would pop the gauge off the parts car onto the limper? Would that accomplish the end you had in mind; if readings were identical that would tell... Glad you brought up the matter of the Star. Is there a reader you can buy, I wonder. I was looking at the Star software and a Dell computer they talk about and too much tinkering around... every guy should have one, as you say. Have I heard you mention Delphi? Also, on the matter of the turbo being worn out, just a week earlier, 3 weeks after I cleaned the EGR it was F1 all the way, zoom. Then it gakked over another 50 K with all the symptoms of a plugged EGR. I cleaned it in situ did not get a good crack at the valve so I thought it might be sticking or something. In any event, there were no catastrophes associate with the turbo and it didnt wear out in 50K's so I think the compressor is fine.
  14. Im stuck here with access only to a dealer Star scan. I wonder if we know of anyone on Vancouver Island with Star software?
  15. Really good suggestion. There are no intake air leaks anywhere, have audited whole system and there was not excessive oil in typical collection spots. I know the muffler is not obstructed. You do hear the turbo loud and proud but as you say, if there are worn blades there will never be any pressure. Im gonna do Willys backyard software check first, hook up the old EGR. The chap who sold me the emulator says he has used them lots with success; I think they are the Polish ones. Then I will do your backyard turbo check. You boys are clever. thx. will report.... Do you know whether a buried code will maintain limp irrespective of battery disconnect reset?