Tut

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Everything posted by Tut

  1. Hi Boys, I wondering if there is anyone on Vancouver Island with a STAR for a quick scan on my daughters car. Its an intermittent stall, no-start condition that has the fingerprints of the corroded fuel pump connection in the SAM. Ive driven it a while and finally got it to quit today so before I go rippin and tearin, thought a STAR scan might be wise. Based on what Ive read on this in here this condition can go one of many ways. I did a regular scan a few weeks ago and got a P0087 code, then cleared it and drove it until failure. With this recent no-start, no codes showed with a conventional scanner. The dealer in Victoria is functionally unavailable. I would sure take some advice on how to buy/organize a STAR set-up, too. Thanks in advance Boys.
  2. Im wondering if there is a common denominator between cold weather, thick diesel and fuel pump strain/load to push syrupy diesel. Are the folks with the board problem from below zero climates driving smarties through winter....
  3. Here's another. I had a really close look with both large and small magnifying apparatus. I saw nothing remarkable. The board appears brand new with no evidence of discoloration or weird physics anywhere.
  4. Here is the board, which seems to be looking pretty good. Willys, do you see anything I might be missing?
  5. OK well here goes, then. Have a pretty sexy solder set up so will just go get a sucker for the R & R. I shall report dutifully. Over for now. Standby! And thanks for setting up tomorrow for me! haha
  6. Well boys the SAM pins are perfect; is this aiming at a cracked solder connection on the SAM board? This car has lived an easy life indoor-stored in a no snow climate, rarely driven even in rain. Girl-driven 78,000 k., full services. Getting lined up on the STAR with Izzy.... Should a guy wait and see if better clues with STAR diagnostics or run at the SAM board? Is the board failure so common its an odds-on fave? Hate to tear things all apart shootin' blind.... thanks in advance boys.
  7. Hello Stickman,

    Willys and the boys told me to ring you up on some STAR advice ie. where to get one....

    Any thoughts? I'm located in Victoria and see you're in Edmonton where I lived for 23 years. Go Oilers! :)

    1. stickman007

      stickman007

      I used to do STAR setup for members, but the last one I got screwed over really good by AliExpress. Kinda don’t want to take that risk anymore. There’s lots of info here on CsC and mhhauto.com. There used to be a lot of “hacking” and custom work to get it all working, but not anymore.

  8. Excellent, Willys, thx. Was hoping you would see this one, wise sage. Doubt there is a fundamental issue in HP fuel pump just yet with only 76k's (lived in garage most of its life) but, based on the above, I will grab the pump from the parts car and apply your magic to it, be ready for battlefield transplant. On the scan matter, last time I needed help Stealership said 'call us in about 8 weeks and we will see if we can fit you in'. That led me to this site and my brand new fave hobby, several years ago now. I read on this site full time, listen close to you boys. Standby for results report! Thx again!
  9. Beauty. Thanks Nigel will take your advice wholly. Sounds an awful lot like a no-voltage to fuel pump deal because when it comes back to life it runs perfect, light or heavy load, then quits cold like a wire fell off. First stop with your great advice, will be to check all earthing points, then on to pin#10. Be sure to disconnect ground at battery. We are so sold on these little guys we have a bunch of them in the family, we're all hooked on 10 foot u-turns in a city with small roads! So proper scanning for the fleet sounds like it could save time. Will be sure to make the ever-important report back on findings!
  10. So after the eddymap, EGR out, emulator, and all the other preemptive mods, the catch can went in to keep little Smartie's guts clean. The breather filter on top of the can was huffing like a steam engine and creating a bit of a StinkySmart spectacle at the stoplights when white ghostly mist curled out from underneath the car after filling engine compartment. I re-routed some plumbing (joined the top and out port in a Tee) and shot the whole business out a silly little invention I thought would both re-heat the engine steam (hyper-vaporize, if such a word exists) and expel if not suck it out. It seems to work with no notice of aftermarket hijinx at the tailpipe. Im thinking if there is periodic vacuum on the steam pipe, it will draw simple exhaust and no muck can gain entry. Im going to do a few oil flushes to tidy things up and watch the oil afterwards. I did this prior to reading several involved posts on the removal of those gasses. Tolsen has nailed it but Im not Smartypants enough to build his cyclone. This might just be a cheap facsimile of a reasonable solution. Shes a happy little girl getting 80 plus mpg, almost 90 at times and seems to love life. Have I done it wrong? Curious to hear from all you Smartscientists. Cheers from Victoria.
  11. You're on your way to some kind of record. Any major surgery on motor to get there? freshening?
  12. Howbout that. Well, I will make a point of checking the temps and keep track. It does heat ok but it has to work to do so....thks good comment....
  13. Your system is outstanding, Nobel over to you for that one.... I think both systems accomplish the same expulsion objective. The difference is yours routes the chemistry through the combustion chamber one more time before finally gone. Both send it through exhaust pipe. I was interested in avoiding that bit of recycling with a more direct route. All going back to nature. Could be my imagination but I would swear the engine runs cooler and heats up slower since this went on. Have to run it on the highway now to get more than 62C.
  14. So one final post on the enduring limp mode mystery. The limp disappeared when I put the rebuilt EGR back in. The only other variable ttherefore, was the Polish emulator. I wondered if some sleepy worker put the wrong number tags on the wires for the emulator. I swapped wires around according to what might have been the easiest mistake to make and the colors of the wires and Presto! the dreaded limp vanished! So the little smart Ferrari is once again cheeky, perky and snorting around town with dangerous attitude. Thanks for all your input chaps and this is my new favorite reading of all time.
  15. Hello boys I'm you but have read so much I feel like I know you all. Hoping you SMARTYgeniuses can offer some thoughts! My main question is whether or not a buried code can maintain limp mode. A brief history goes like bought the car with 70 thousand easy k's then an immediate remap by Eddie. Routine oil changes and at around 90 periodic limp mode started that was reset with a rest /ignition off. 100 k now on clock. Numbers1 and 2 (mainly #2)injectors leaked a bit then later a fair bit car began to smoke and grossly underperform, then an EGR cleaning then ran like a race car for 3 weeks then gagged for good, smoke and choked. Into shop for the following: 1. Egr out with blocking plate and emulator in; 2. Complete audit of all intake air hoses, intercooler, Turbo, connections, air filter, muffler, no leaks or obstructions; 3. Oil can with lots of ventilation added; 4. Many battery disconnections for limp reset; 5. Number one and two injectors (leakers) out and cleaned with good spray pattern number three is soundly stuck but was not leaking. I listen with the stethoscope and all sounds are uniform at the site of the injectors, new fire rings, no leaks; 6. Fuel filter change the old one was perfectly good; 7. No codes, at least ones that my reader would pick up, have ever been thrown; 8. Clutch actuator is properly adjusted and lubricated. Shifts and starts smooth and crisp. The car now fires right up, idles nicely, no smoke, no hesitation, works great but is in enduring limp mode with maximum RPMs 3250. Also, manifold pressure seems to peak at 189 irrespective of blow-off valve adjustment. I did hear Tolson say a limp condition would cause the ECM to limit fuel so maybe in that condition it cannot generate enough turbo spin to develop full pressure? I am wondering if the manifold pressure sensor ever goes haywire, if the injectors could be faulty or if it is a software problem which brings me back to whether or not I should spring to have the codes cleared (my code reader will not do it) or keep digging into the hardware. I have a whole parts car in good shape so parts are not a problem. I guess the second question is do we know of anyone who has a STAR reader on Vancouver Island? I would go to Eddie Lai in a heartbeat but resist temptation to go to the Steelership. Here is the catch can. I really do appreciate in advance any bits of wisdom you could offer and applaud you all for your ingenuity and resourcefulness. You guys crack me right up. thanks boys!
  16. I better get in touch with Stickman on emulator. Has anyone had trouble in the past with the Polish ones? I thought they were pretty dependable.
  17. Problem solved and well Willys, who IS the smartest kid on the playground... I thought before anything, do the quickest and easiest, check the integrity of the emulator with brainstorm Willys little process. Douched out the old EGR and plugged it in. The little diesel Ferrari came roaring back, angrier than ever and ready to gallop, even scared me a bit, all that roaring and pep. She immediately threw an overboost code and light limp so re-tweaked the boost arm and all is good. I am a bit perplexed, checked the pins and all seemed good. It is a Polish emulator and I've not heard bad reports on these. Anyone else had issues? Wonder if I can find him anymore... Thanks for your input, boys. This is my favorite reading now, whether or not problems are afoot. Like a good mystery novel with some light physics thrown in. tut
  18. I was able to do an Autel scan and found the only code present was a P1401-64, EGR valve sticking and not closing completely. This one was no surprise. Cleared the code and still limp mode. Now I will clean the EGR and plug it back in to see if the emulator is no good. If emulator checks out then I will sub out the AM Pressure sensor with the one from the parts car to see if the reading is identical. I pressure tested the intercooler, its good and all the hoses are good. If pressure is still no good at max 190 psi, I dunno, that seems to aim at the fan? I shall report dutifully. Also good to know the injectors are A-OK.
  19. Willys wrote: I'll bet if you are down on power you have rub throughs on the intercooler and don't see it yet. Mine was perfectly clean compared to a few I have seen with holes. So like you I didn't think it was damaged yet. It was.....JBWeld fix it...lol. For how long I can't say but far cheaper than a new one!!!! Also, if you have bad nozzles I know for a fact they make a huge difference if you change them....mender is the guy for those. They are like chicken lips and extremely hard to find.....but he has a connection and they are pricey....but again far cheaper than new injectors! Thanks Willys, I did have all the air intake system apart and pressure tested everything, I could have missed something I suppose but I dont know what... Will chase down software, fuel delivery and pin connections for the emulator. If those all check out then back to air maybe? Those nozzles sound like a good plan. I know the injectors in the parts car are good. I will pop those out and audit nozzles etc, First I have to build a tool to remove #3, the little snot is just jammed in there...
  20. Sydney wrote: One of my 05 cabrios was stuck in limp mode. There was no codes, the check engine light was on but for a faulty glow plug ciircuit. After searching and reading a bunch of forms I finally looked at the plug going to the EGR solinoid. It turns out the both end pins were spread open so they were not making good contact. I fixed the pins and limp mode is now gone. This is what I encountered, your case is probably not going to be as easy because you have already bypassed the EGR with the emulator. But you might want to have a look at the harness that your emulator is plugged into. Thank you Sydney this is an excellent suggestion! I will look at it tomorrow. My lay hunch is that it is something simple and electrical/software or that fuel delivery is compromised.
  21. Nigel wrote: Tut Your maximum MAP reading is a little low mine tops out around 215. Could be wastegate adjustment, a wastegate that doesn’t fully close, hole in intercooler or intake plumbing or weak fuel delivery. Now if you got that number when in limp mode I would be impressed. Just my two cents, I’m certainly not an expert. Nigel Nigel thank you... pretty sure there are no leaks in the intake air system, had it all apart and pressure tested everything. 190 in limp mode all shes gonna deliver. I did move the adjustment around and wasnt able to get more than 190, it did trim back a bit, though.
  22. Thank you! I was thinking I would pop the gauge off the parts car on there? Would that accomplish the end you had in mind; if readings were identical that would tell... Glad you brought up the matter of the Star. Is there a reader you can buy, I wonder. I was looking at the Star software and a Dell computer they talk about and too much tinkering around... every guy should have one, as you say. Have I heard you mention Delphi?
  23. Tolsen wrote: Tee in a pressure gauge and measure boost pressure. Invest in a Star clone if you intend to keep your Smart car. Thank you! I was thinking I would pop the gauge off the parts car onto the limper? Would that accomplish the end you had in mind; if readings were identical that would tell... Glad you brought up the matter of the Star. Is there a reader you can buy, I wonder. I was looking at the Star software and a Dell computer they talk about and too much tinkering around... every guy should have one, as you say. Have I heard you mention Delphi? Also, on the matter of the turbo being worn out, just a week earlier, 3 weeks after I cleaned the EGR it was F1 all the way, zoom. Then it gakked over another 50 K with all the symptoms of a plugged EGR. I cleaned it in situ did not get a good crack at the valve so I thought it might be sticking or something. In any event, there were no catastrophes associate with the turbo and it didnt wear out in 50K's so I think the compressor is fine.
  24. Im stuck here with access only to a dealer Star scan. I wonder if we know of anyone on Vancouver Island with Star software?