Tut
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Everything posted by Tut
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Gents: Have a humming not unlike dry bearing or winter tire noise coming from rear. Appears at about 40 K, increases, then decreases over 80K. Rear wheel bearings feel good on hoist, have fresh ones with HIs Majesty Tolsen’s grease nipple mod ready to install but now wondering if bearing noise is not coming from sealed transmission bearings. No play or noise, or rumble or chunky whatsoever at low speed turning on hoist, feel perfect but they might if they are just dry. Can a Smexpert with experience on this and good ear have a listen? Car has 135 easy west coast K on it, no snow or salt or grit. Wet winters though. Changed tires, no difference. Slight rumble from rear on hard left or right turn, its always done that. Same volume and frequency of hum whether in gear or neutral. Thanks in advance, Boys. I’m really stuck on this one, don’t want to rent a listen from Stealership or do a bunch of unnecessary work. tt Here are links to 2 videos, one coasting and one under load. Sorry for road noise, best I could do. Cheers coasting https://youtu.be/brHnnL2fMkU under load https://youtu.be/hN4Kr8AbZcI
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This is encouraging!
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Right, you're getting your moneys worth from those bearings! I was led on a few wild goose chases by vendors who claimed to have them who later had to fess they didn't. The German Car Parts guys said they would not have them until spring this year, if then. They may, by now. They're great, I accept whatever they tell me. I will be curious to see what's inside those crunchy rears and why they failed in such light duty. Never a load in car and smooth driving conditions.... Maybe they were manufactured with as varying degrees of quality as reports on their performance. Tolsen said he had to do them once a year until he devised his greasing system!
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Wheel Bearing Update: Changed the fronts out and 60% of hum disappeared, drove another 300 and the 40% leftover hum became louder, especially at highway speeds. Changed rears, unable to get new ones so overhauled a good used set and packed tight with red n tacky bearing grease (with 'TolsengreaseGroove'). Smooth and quiet, just like new. Under inspection, fronts were loose and sloppy, rears not loose but crunchy when turning, especially R Rear. Will inspect internals soon and report. Issues started at 136K k's on mild west coast Canada with very limited operation in winter conditions or gravel. 99.999% smooth city pavement, nearly zero exposure to salt or dust. Rain in winter. One for the record... Standby for post-mortem.
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Yes, they do not make these bearings easy to service. Tolsen's fix is ideal but takes bit of work. I think worth it. All these machines we buy have built-in design deficiencies. If we can get ahead of the breakage by re-engineering weak links, well, life may flow smoother. When they break, feels like ambush.
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Mr. Loose L! Did you see last reply? You were right, seems its the driver front. Sound bouncing around in cabin, sounds like rear. Thanks for the tip, I would not have looked as hard as I had to without your crumb trail. Thanks again. tt
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Spinning wheel, great advice, as usual. New development: I thought rear for sure because humming much louder at rear of car, also because I checked the fronts, but apparently not closely enough. Master Tolsen right again! Put the stethoscope on fronts and just wee tinkling sound on driver side; if I really reef on the wheel I can get it to click tiniest movement. I think demon is revealed, the same one that howls louder in rear of car than front of cabin due to sound resonation, like you say, Mr. T. Ordering couple new ones and do the dust cap mod. Will run it after drivers side in just so we know. Standby boys. thx. tt PS, yearly wheel bearings certainly unusual? Never heard of it....
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Really good, keep this in mind. Yes the German is out of parts, says maybe February. Those guys are great.
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Funny. Right after I lowered car and it left the shop yesterday that same thought crossed my mind. The whirring got louder in the movie, I thought, as the phone moved closer to the rear of the car which may mean absolutely nothing. Im checking the fronts before I do anything. Maybe a learning moment. I shall report results.
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Great Willys, thx. An educated ear like yours is just what this deal needs. Rear end whirring is easier to figure out when not mixed in with all the other rear machinery possibilities in Smarties. Thankyou!
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Great advice, thx. Tried the swerving and rumble from both rears, but like I said they have always rumbled on turns since 80,000 K. I tried running it up to speed in the air but puter just shuts it off. You're bringing me back to my original thoughts. Rattled me when they felt and sounded so good when wheels spun on hoist by hand. Reading too much of Tolsen's transmission stories. haha. Fixes so easy to him. He's Superman.
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oh jeepers, just saw this, sorry. thank you for the reply! Still have them? dont know if she still needs them. I will find out.
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Hi, do you still have these? tx Tim
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Hi, do you have any old alloys for sale? I need a few for 451. thx. Tim
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Hi Boys, I wondering if there is anyone on Vancouver Island with a STAR for a quick scan on my daughters car. Its an intermittent stall, no-start condition that has the fingerprints of the corroded fuel pump connection in the SAM. Ive driven it a while and finally got it to quit today so before I go rippin and tearin, thought a STAR scan might be wise. Based on what Ive read on this in here this condition can go one of many ways. I did a regular scan a few weeks ago and got a P0087 code, then cleared it and drove it until failure. With this recent no-start, no codes showed with a conventional scanner. The dealer in Victoria is functionally unavailable. I would sure take some advice on how to buy/organize a STAR set-up, too. Thanks in advance Boys.
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Im wondering if there is a common denominator between cold weather, thick diesel and fuel pump strain/load to push syrupy diesel. Are the folks with the board problem from below zero climates driving smarties through winter....
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another...
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Here's another. I had a really close look with both large and small magnifying apparatus. I saw nothing remarkable. The board appears brand new with no evidence of discoloration or weird physics anywhere.
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Here is the board, which seems to be looking pretty good. Willys, do you see anything I might be missing?
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OK well here goes, then. Have a pretty sexy solder set up so will just go get a sucker for the R & R. I shall report dutifully. Over for now. Standby! And thanks for setting up tomorrow for me! haha
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Well boys the SAM pins are perfect; is this aiming at a cracked solder connection on the SAM board? This car has lived an easy life indoor-stored in a no snow climate, rarely driven even in rain. Girl-driven 78,000 k., full services. Getting lined up on the STAR with Izzy.... Should a guy wait and see if better clues with STAR diagnostics or run at the SAM board? Is the board failure so common its an odds-on fave? Hate to tear things all apart shootin' blind.... thanks in advance boys.
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Hello Stickman,
Willys and the boys told me to ring you up on some STAR advice ie. where to get one....
Any thoughts? I'm located in Victoria and see you're in Edmonton where I lived for 23 years. Go Oilers!
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I used to do STAR setup for members, but the last one I got screwed over really good by AliExpress. Kinda don’t want to take that risk anymore. There’s lots of info here on CsC and mhhauto.com. There used to be a lot of “hacking” and custom work to get it all working, but not anymore.
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Excellent, Willys, thx. Was hoping you would see this one, wise sage. Doubt there is a fundamental issue in HP fuel pump just yet with only 76k's (lived in garage most of its life) but, based on the above, I will grab the pump from the parts car and apply your magic to it, be ready for battlefield transplant. On the scan matter, last time I needed help Stealership said 'call us in about 8 weeks and we will see if we can fit you in'. That led me to this site and my brand new fave hobby, several years ago now. I read on this site full time, listen close to you boys. Standby for results report! Thx again!
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Beauty. Thanks Nigel will take your advice wholly. Sounds an awful lot like a no-voltage to fuel pump deal because when it comes back to life it runs perfect, light or heavy load, then quits cold like a wire fell off. First stop with your great advice, will be to check all earthing points, then on to pin#10. Be sure to disconnect ground at battery. We are so sold on these little guys we have a bunch of them in the family, we're all hooked on 10 foot u-turns in a city with small roads! So proper scanning for the fleet sounds like it could save time. Will be sure to make the ever-important report back on findings!
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So after the eddymap, EGR out, emulator, and all the other preemptive mods, the catch can went in to keep little Smartie's guts clean. The breather filter on top of the can was huffing like a steam engine and creating a bit of a StinkySmart spectacle at the stoplights when white ghostly mist curled out from underneath the car after filling engine compartment. I re-routed some plumbing (joined the top and out port in a Tee) and shot the whole business out a silly little invention I thought would both re-heat the engine steam (hyper-vaporize, if such a word exists) and expel if not suck it out. It seems to work with no notice of aftermarket hijinx at the tailpipe. Im thinking if there is periodic vacuum on the steam pipe, it will draw simple exhaust and no muck can gain entry. Im going to do a few oil flushes to tidy things up and watch the oil afterwards. I did this prior to reading several involved posts on the removal of those gasses. Tolsen has nailed it but Im not Smartypants enough to build his cyclone. This might just be a cheap facsimile of a reasonable solution. Shes a happy little girl getting 80 plus mpg, almost 90 at times and seems to love life. Have I done it wrong? Curious to hear from all you Smartscientists. Cheers from Victoria.