Bu5Drv3r

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Everything posted by Bu5Drv3r

  1. Hello again everyone, I know, I know....... the Daystar kit isnt meant for the 450. Contrary to what the forums have said, I spoke to a sales rep at Daystar who indicated that it would actually work for my vehicle so I'd thought I'd give it a go. Well, everything went smoothly until I noted that I was only turning two and a half turns to the right where I had three turns before. Left turn is not has not been effected by the lift, only the right side. From what I can see, the frame points are the same between the 450 and 451. The only difference that Ive located is the steering damper on the 450 and the mounting point for it, precisely where the rack is hitting the frame. I have a few questions: 1. Has anyone removed the damper from their car? If so, Can the bracket be removed and the boot replaced? 2. Has anyone swapped a 451 rack into a 450? Mount points and sizing appear to be the same. 3. Is anyone willing to measure out their 451 rack (end to end, mount holes) for me to compare to my stock unit? Thanks again! J
  2. Hi peeps, I'm a long time creeper, first time poster. I just picked up a 2005 fortwo cdi that was already broken. I'm quite handy as I have a shop at home and was an automotive apprentice for years. It was running when i got it. Checked compression, 250psi across all three cylinders. Cleaned the injectors, now it runs poorly. Cleaned EGR it woke up for a bit now it's back to running rough. I cleaned the injectors again and now it will start then stall when the IC fan kicks on. Can anyone point me in another direction??!!. I know @stickman007 is local (Edmonton) so I'm begging for help!
  3. As mentioned, I cant say for certain that the car was cared for and driven properly before I purchased it as it was already broken. I was basing my belief on my observations on the engine internals when I disassembled the engine and on the replacement head. The engine internals were clean, no sludge ANYWHERE. The car also only has 162k and had all of the sprockets and chains replaced. Both heads displayed the same lifter failure just at different stages. If I left the lifters that came in the replacement head, it would have had the same exact failure. I was merely suggesting that if your engine is around the 150k mark and your going to dig into it to replace the cam sprocket, chains and oil pump sprockets, that perhaps you remove the cam and replace the lifters and rockers. I paid around 20 bucks a lifter. That's a small price to pay with everything involved. The headbolts from mercedes are now going for over $30 (x8) a bolt. Not to mention the replacement head and everything else. Thankfully I wasnt driving it when the lifter let go as I can imagine the damage would have been far worse. This is obviously just my opinion as all of you have more experience with these vehicles than I do. That's why I'm here. It's my first diesel fortwo as the previous model i owned was a 09 451 that had it's own set of issues.
  4. Well folks, the cylinder head is scrap. I couldnt for the life of me extract the remaining half of the lifter (exhaust, cylinder #3) as there obviously was some damage in the bore from the shrapnel when it failed. Based on all of the issues with the existing head, I went with a replacement. I purchased a "low mileage" used one from BC, replaced the lifters and cleaned everything else up. The lifters I removed from the "low mileage" head were on the verge of breaking off. You could see the top half of the lifters were actually bent and ready to blow and it wasnt just one of them, almost all of them had the same damage. In the end, I replaced the head, lifters, head bolts, head gasket, injector crush washers (3rd set now) and the oil pan (drain plug design). I also inspected all of the components in the timing cover and determined that all of the timing components sprockets, oil sprockets and chains have all been replaced prior so I saved some money there. Here is a short video of the first start. As discused, the lifters should be changed at the same interval as the timing chain (around 150k) otherwise its just a time bomb ready to go. I do not have the maintenance records from this vehicle so I cant speak to the care the car has received but after pulling the oil pan and noticing the lack of sludge and observing the amount of parts replaced prior, I dont believe it was abused in any manor. Hopefully it behaves for the next 160k. Thanks again for everyone's help!
  5. Thank you sooo much! I feel like an idiot as the solution was so simple. Atleast I didnt break it! There was no contact between the valve and piston. The valve is straight and doesnt appear to be damaged at all. It appears the lifter failed and only half of it is left in its place. The other half was located on it's way down to the oil pan. The valve keepers are MIA. At this point I'm going to redo the valves, seals, springs, keepers, lifters and rockers. I may replace the cam but I dont think there was sufficient damage to the lobes based on looking at it after the clean up.
  6. Can someone tell me how to get the tensioner guide from the timing chain unattached from the head or the tensioner? The heads ready to be pulled but the alldata directions make no mention of it and I cant see a solution without pulling the timing cover. And before its mentioned, the timing chain and other parts are new, that's why I dont want to pull the cover unless I have to!
  7. So I got into it this week. And opened the valve cover One of these things is not like the others... Obviously I'll be pulling the head next and letting you know what I find!
  8. Well fellas, I threw the new crush washers on and put the injectors back in. I went to start it and it eventually ran making the same noise until it stalled again, just like the above video. I went to start it once more only for it to make what I will describe as a "clunk " and now it spins over with what appears to be no compression. Now im into pulling the motor and Im trying to decide if I should just spend the money and purchase another good running used engine to throw in and then rebuild this one for the shelf or just rebuild the one I have........Let me know your thoughts! Obviously at this point I dont know if the injectors are pooched or that this engine has not suffered a catastrophic internal failure. Im hoping to decide by this weekend as I would actually like to drive this thing by the end of July. John
  9. So! I was talking to a buddy at work who asked if both intake or exhaust valves could have been opened, allowing the compressed air to leak between. I felt like an idiot for not trying it so I thought I'd give it a shot. I of course couldn't find a firing order specifically to this engine so when I got home, I turned the engine half a turn and now there is no air leaking between the cylinders! So I'm going back to throwing the new crush washers in and giving it a shot. Obviously I'll attempt the glow plugs after it runs (hopefully) for a bit.
  10. Could be! Either way the heads coming off.
  11. I'm also thinking I may have causes this by getting some diesel down the holes when I was attempting to half assed do a compression test through the injector holes.... let me know if I'm wrong as I'm going to start pulling the motor.
  12. Well......I went to install the injectors by cleaning out the holes and discovered that when I blow compressed air in cylinder 2, it comes out of cylinder 3.......I'm not a genius or anything but my guess is the head gasket is blow between the cylinders.....
  13. I managed to pick up half a dozen crush washers yesterday from the dealer and a diesel compression tester. Im hoping to find time this week to throw the them back in and if the issue is still there, im pulling the glow plugs and doing a proper compression test. Ill post an update once when I have something!
  14. Ah, I guess there is hope for my CDI with 162k on it. Obviously lack of care before hand could be the issue as well.
  15. I'm assuming all of these engines have been rebuilt at some point though? I've heard the CDI's need a rebuild sometime before 160k.
  16. I'll have to pick some up this week when I'm back in the city. I'll post an update once I have them in.
  17. Here's a video of a fresh start and subsequent stall.
  18. I wonder if it's a bit of both. The stalling seemed to follow my injector cleaning.... it ran the same before just didnt stall out on me.
  19. Here's a video of a fresh start and subsequent stall.
  20. In response to Willys, I'd gladly rid myself of the EGR and purchase the emulator. Leadwing- I'm not sure on the age of the fuel as I understand it's been down for some time. I've also reached out to the previous owner to see if he could atleast tell me what he got into with the machine but he hasn't responded.
  21. Thanks for the replies! I dont think I described the situation as best that I could. I bought the car this week as a non-runner. It's a 2005 CDI with 162k . The previous owner couldn't figure out what was going on with it but said that it ran rough and it couldn't be driven. He had obviously tore into it as the battery compartment was open, injectors were loose in the holes and the glow plugs were unplugged. Once I got it to my place, I reinstalled the injectors and plugged in the glow plugs and it fired up. It ran rough, knocked and was billowing out black smoke. But it would idle without stalling. So I first tore apart the egr and was able to clean it out. I did notice a bit of light between the seals on the valve openings but I didnt think it would be a big deal. Once I put it back in it actually ran better and wasnt knocking as much. So I attempted to drive it but it would not rev up, lurched violently and eventually stalled. Then I took the injectors out and let them soak for the night. In the morning I used a toothbrush and cleaned the nozzles best I could. I then re-installed the injectors and it still ran rough. So I pulled the injectors again and performed a compression test with the injector holes and a push in style tester. I know it's not the proper procedure but it's all I had on hand. All three cylinders were around 250psi if not higher. I put the injectors back in, it had a hard time starting back up (maybe diesel got into the cylinders?) But once it did it run, it was rough again. Only this time, it stalled after 10-15sec. Only way I could keep it running was to get the revs around 2500-3k and hold it there. Once I let go though, it'd stall right out. And that's where I'm at now. I'm ready to pull the engine at this point and just go through everything piece by piece. Also, I havent heard the turbo spin up once since I've had it. Is that because I cant get it to rev up under load or is that possibly another one of its issues? Thanks again folks!