SnapDragon

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About SnapDragon

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    Vancouver, Canada
  1. Thanks Willys, will give source a diesel compression tester, go over the SAM and the grounds. ECU plug was checked after the initial problem in this post and fire washers were replaced with new ones from MB. There's also a nagging feeling in the back of my head that I did not tighten down the injector nozzles hard enough. I suppose I will see a pool of fuel in the injector well.
  2. Is it possible to use iCarsoft to read the compression on these smart cars? Just thought I might buy one to service my other Mercedes and see if this particular smart's computer is saying anything.
  3. I have taken each injector apart and sonic cleaned the nozzles then sprayed some brake cleaner through to check for spray pattern. SAM unit was checked for burnt pins on all the pins and nothing was found to be burned. I have checked the obvious grounds like the one that goes to the vaccum pump and the one that connects from the transmission brace to the chassis. Am I missing anymore that should be checked? EGR was cleaned out with plunger and solenoid tested for functionality. The things I am missing are overhauling the fuel system like the fuel itself and the filter, checking over the turbo, and actually testing the fuel pressure for numbers. I suppose the headgasket could cause compression issues, could I test that with the oil cap trick to see if it flies off? No coolant in the car at this moment. I suppose I will get the rest of the fuel system done up first before I delve into the other stuff. Thanks for all the advice and look forward to some more!
  4. So I made a video highlighting this rough running smart car to see if any of you guys have any ideas. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zvScw7jAy0q9eAGdzIjQ-Xa1Qsltd7M3/view?usp=sharing
  5. Car has started to hesitate and give white smoke, cant run it over 2k rpm even with the throttle pushed down. Cranking the engine by hand revealed that compression in cylinder 3 has weakened in comparison to 1 and 2. Ran like a charm before. Maybe valves are getting stuck again?
  6. 5 CDIs woaaahh. Gave a photo to Willys so he can do a comparison with his spare pipe and the cracks were ok. Thanks for the info.
  7. I suppose I will do a combination of what Willys and LooseLugNuts suggests and give it some additive in the oil and leaving the rest of the gunk in there to fill in any wear holes. The car has 150k kms. Thanks for the insight on that Willys. On a side note, I did take the injectors nozzles off to ultrasound clean them and make sure all 5 holes were spraying on each injector. Another point that concerns me after starting the car up was after a bit, the engine started pushing out a lot of white smoke. I hope its the oil in the intake that I threw in to increase compression burning off. There's no coolant in the car at this time as I am just starting it to make sure everything is ok. One last thing, the pipe that goes from the air intake to the turbo has 5 splits on the turbo side and I dont believe it is good for sealing anymore. Anyone got some advice as to where I can acquire one that does not cost 110 dollars CAD from the dealer? Thanks everyone!
  8. Most likely sitting for quite a while. From the time of diagnoses to actually doing a job could have been easily half a year or more so the engine was just sitting. I did remove the camshaft to facilitate timing the motor during replacement of all the chains but did not bump into anything that should have caused them to stick. Anyone suggest deep cleaning the motor with seafoam or something?
  9. Further probing and doing as suggested in this post: It would seem that cylinder 2 and 1 were both stuck open and I suppose my in inexperience with feeling for it while cranking by hand and hearing for compression made me miss it. Couple taps of a hammer and punch under the valve cover and onto the valve spring caps with cams pushing into their respective valves later and the car started right up.
  10. Hello, replaced a stripped oil gear by taking the engine out of car and replaced with a Taiwanese parts kit. Checked the alternator and made sure to free it up. Threw the engine back into the car and went to crank the car with another car boosting the battery. Low pressure pump can be heard pumping fuel from the tank. A couple more cranks later I cracked the unions at the pipes leading to the injectors and fuel was there spraying out during cranking. Hopeful that it would start, I cranked again and I got the car to catch on 1 cylinder once. Then the car would continue to crank freely without any sign of catching. After that, every time I cranked only 1 cylinder would fire once. Sprayed lube oil (no wd40 at my shop unfortunately) into intake to try and raise compression to cylinder 1 as the wiki and many posts have suggested. Still no luck. Pulled all the injectors to see what could be happening and was able to see that only cylinder 1 injector was wet while the others were bone dry. I assume the Crankshaft position sensor is working because the tach is showing the rpms of the engine during cranking. Could anyone please give me some advice as to what could be going wrong? Car was stilling started and ran before the oil gear change job. Thanks
  11. I also thought dyed fuel was for agricultural purposes. Anyways I filled a jerry can with diesel and found it to be tinged blue and yellow. Guess there were no problems with the fuel. Thanks everyone!
  12. Hi, smart cdi 2005 in my family has been broken for a while so recently I have decided to poke around it to get it going. As I went through the fuel system and drained it, the diesel came out with a blue tinge to it. The car has been driven around Vancouver Canada for its time in our owner ship and has been mostly filled with shell V Power. Has the fuel gone wrong here? Thanks