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About SnapDragon

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    Vancouver, Canada
  1. I will give it a try as soon as the car is free.
  2. If our intercoolers are not supposed to be a little wet from oil then there is only two places it can come from right? The CCV from the cam cover into the TIK which could have somehow started delivering fluid instead of fumes, or the turbo intake side leaking through the shaft? Turbo was replaced around 400km ago with a Chinese part that has worked very well. Last I inspected it the exhaust side was dry and the intake had a bit of oil sitting there before the air reaches the turbine (picture in post #34). Maybe that oil sitting there is a product of the CCV pushing out fluid oil? Gahh my moment of bliss with a working smart is gone again.
  3. I ended up sourcing a used intercooler from Eddy that only had a pinhole in 1 of the tubes. Slathered that thing with JB weld and placed some brake pad bracket metal on top to protect it should anymore chaffing occur. I also ensured the fit between the plastic cradle and intercooler was tight with no room to moved against each other. Put everything together and also replaced the muffler with a spare as the original was caked in black soot. The car seems to have gained 30% of its power and the oil leak the covered the transmission also seems to have stopped. But holy crap this thing really flies with no holes in the intercooler. Makes me want to upload a tune hehehe. The car hasn’t smoked since the repair and I will post here if the problem comes back again. Thank you everyone for your input.
  4. Man you really need an arts and crafts degree and a pretty committed hobbyist at repairing cars to own a smart CDI. I have cut the plastic a bit and now am in the process of gluing the intercooler. I will post an update upon completion of the repair and see if this fixes the original problem I posted on.
  5. I intend to do something like this to repair the radiator. Made a little aluminum cover to place over the hole and then I will JB weld it in. Anyone think there is any issues? Picture below. After further examination, I see there is another layer of metal that is damaged underneath the worn out layer and I was wondering if that really needs to be repaired as well? The previous picture should show what I mean.
  6. MikeT unfortunately I am not the original owner so that's kinda out of the question. Did smart ever update the design on the cradle for this intercooler to eliminate the cutting issue? Just trying to see if there is any point in finding one at a junk yard. If not, I think I will try and repair the tubes. Something like putting a little metal cast on each of the cuts and gluing on top is something I want to try.
  7. Welp, checked the muffler and found it was caked in black soot, moved onto the turbo and found a little bit of oil on the intake side which I suppose is normal from the CCV? Below is a picture of the oil. I then took off the turbo and inspected the exhaust side and found that it was nice and dry. I then proceeded to take the intercooler out which was coated with oil. That was PITA. I then found an infamous problem. You can probably guess this. Heres a picture. Whats more interesting are these notches that I have not seen before on the internet. Another picture. I can only conclude that the plastic wearing into this intercooler formed a good enough seal for most driving but when going up a hill, the increased pressure in the intake piping must have let air escape through these cuts. Could that then cause a rich mix situation causing grey and black smoke out the back? Oil consumption is also very bad. Do not know how this could be caused. I suppose a new intercooler is in order. Lets hope its not too much. Anyone got a recommendation to get one of these?
  8. CAT as in catalytic converter as in the basically the big exhaust muffler thingy that makes up basically the entire exhaust? I have another I can swap in. I did the sonic cleaning to the injectors when doing the oil gear pump job 400km ago so many new tips are in order. Still gotta clean the EGR again though and think about that blocking plate.
  9. Got the readings from the ECU through Eddy at Flying Tiger today. Gave me some great advice on the car and it was pretty cheap (40 CAD) to adjust the trans. Fuel pressures and boost pressure looked to be within spec (boost was 0.99 bar idle and 1.06 bar with a bit of pedal). When it came to check the selective quantity correction for each cylinder there was a small deviation from spec that Eddy pointed out might be leading to slightly stuck injectors. Injectors could be acting up which could have caused the smoke. Below is a picture of the readings. Can anyone else comment on these readings? For the drive back and forth from Flying Tiger today amounting to around 60kms, I also changed my driving style from a early shifting (around 2500 rpms) to keep rpms low to letting the computer decide and driving with a heavier right foot (shifting at 3000 to 3500 rpm, put a smile on my face through the traffic). Result was no smoke from the back from any point during the drive. Perhaps my driving style is too gentle for the car. How do you guys usually drive the car in terms of gas pedal and shifting?
  10. For Nigel, the turbo change was done around 400 km ago. Sorry to smartdriver for answering your question in post #2 so late. Car has 3/4 oil on level ground from the dipstick cold. Just checked the injectors by taking the tips off and checking for 5 streams coming out of the tips. All of the injectors passed this test. Here is a picture of the one that had the most carbon buildup. Will take a look at the EGR next and pursue a blocking plate. Will the car throw a code if I block it off? I am taking the car tomorrow to Eddy at Flying Tiger to get a read on all the data coming from the car (boost pressures, fuel pressure, etc.) and do an electronic transmission adjustment (TCU likes to dump the clutch on hills). Maybe this data can help diagnosis and I will ask him on what he thinks about this issue too.
  11. For MikeT, my smart is not remapped. Bone stock and just had a oil gear pump repair and new chinese CHRA (previous one blew up after low oil pressure). I will take out the EGR and clean it again. For the blocking plate, I have read from somewhere that I should block on the exhaust manifold side to limit turbo lag? I will also check injectors and that valve cover thingy for blockages. As for the valve cover venting questions posted by Willys, doesn't the valve cover vent hose lead into the TIK pipe where then the fumes are then forced through intercooler to EGR and finally into the intake manifold? There's a little hole that appears in the TIK pipe to the right of the flexible joint in MikeT's illustration that he posted and I believe that is where the valve cover gasses pass into the system. Blocking off the exhaust inlet to the EGR should not affect the the valve cover gasses as the gasses still pass through the EGR and into the intake regardless.
  12. As for the how much smoke is coming out, I would say enough to be able to see through the rear glass while driving around. Cloud was translucent and for the couple of times where this smoke came on to blanket the cars behind me, no complaints from them. Ill try to get a video the next time it shows.
  13. I was driving around town today and noticed as I got off the gas pedal after climbing a hill, the car would throw quite a lot of black/grey smoke out the back. I was not able to recreate it consistently but it has happened more than once out of the blue. One time, I pulled over after the smoke started coming out the tail pipe from finishing an uphill climb. At idle there was no smoke but if I were to bring it up to 3k rpm and let the pedal go, the black smoke would spray out. After around 3 times of punching the gas, the smoke subsided like nothing had happened. Car still has all the power from before and no extra oil or fuel consumption has been noticed. EGR was cleaned around 400km ago. Could this be some sensor issue?
  14. I think I will start a new thread to troubleshoot this if this cooling issue is a repeat offender. I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread in helping get my engine started and running smoothly. Special thanks to Willys for really dumping a pile of good knowledge on me to cipher through as I am pretty new to the Smart CDI.
  15. I have cleaned all the grounds that were listed in this thread while trying to make this engine start. Put some additives in there now to see if it will cure. Today I drove on the highway and got it up to 6th gear for around 5 minutes then hit some traffic. In the midst of the traffic the temperature went up to 4 blobs which gave me a bit of a panic. Might have been 1 minute or so before I noticed it. I immediately threw the heater on to cool the car but by the time I slid the temperature slider to the hot side, the car temperature was back to 3 blobs. Slid the temperature slider back over the cool side. Never happened again for the rest of the drive through the traffic and home. Is this something to worry about? Do our smarts reach this temperature regularly when driven under certain conditions?