SmarMy

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About SmarMy

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  • Location
    Essex England
  1. Anyone in east London/Essex with a star machine? I’ve got a 2001 Smart Fortwo with the 3 bars syndrome. I’ve checked all the usual suspects but still no joy. Looking for someone with a star machine to have a look at it and possibly have a go at reteaching the transmission. Any help will be much appreciated. Sincerest regards.
  2. Hoping to get the car up in the air tomorrow, pull the rear left wheel off and have a look at the wiring. Does the intercooler have to come out in order to pull the wiring loom up into the engine hatch?
  3. Already swapped the actuator out and checked the clutch fork but thanks for the advice 👍🏻😊
  4. Just stumbled across this thread whilst googling "3bars" My smart 450 is currently refusing to move whilst displaying the 3 bars. Hoping to find some time in the next few days to pull all the gearbox wiring out and give it a good inspection. Part of me is hoping that I find some bare wires just in the hope that it solves the problem.lol
  5. Thanks for your reply. The yellow wire goes to the Meg. I have just removed both plugs from the Meg and everything was clean, no signs of corrosion. Definitely making sure i press the unlock button every time before I try starting it lol.
  6. Next steps is to pull the Meg unit out and have a look at the plugs and sockets. I started to access it today ( I got the top 3 screws undone) but the weather beat me to it. Lol
  7. Thank you so much for all your helpful replies. Unfortunately, wiring isn't my strongest subject. lol Now I know I can start it by connecting the yellow wire to the ground, im tempted to fit a door bell style push button to simplify the starting problem. lol Modern cars have push button engine start after all. lol
  8. Finally managed to find a spare five minutes to have a look at the Smart today. Drew up a spreadsheet with all the plug numbers, pin numbers, wire colours, functions and spaces to write down what I found. Rigged up a test lamp and connected up one end to the brown ground earth pin and started working my way through each other pin in all three plugs for voltages with the ignition in positions 0, 1 and 2. Got to the point where the ignition was in position 1, and as I touched the test lamp probe on the yellow wire of the middle plug, pin number 5, the car burst into life!! I let it run for a while before switching off via the key, but when I tried to restart on the key, still nothing, but touch the yellow wire again and we fired up. Any pointers anyone?? Whilst it was running, I noticed I still have the three bars of death on the dashboard, and when I tried putting it in gear, it didn't show any sign of moving. But that's another hurdle, im just glad smart is breathing again. lol
  9. Thanks again everyone for all your replies. I havent checked the connections at the starter motor yet, simply because i've read what a b*****d it is to get to lol and I want to be able to rule out the fusebox first. Theres no key symbol on the dashboard, but there is "the dreaded 3 bars of death" am I right in thinking that shouldn't be stopping the engine from turning over/starting? Next step, when I get a chance, will be to try a test lamp on the rear fusebox connections. Looking at the layout, looking from the back of the car, the plug on the right hand side, there should be 12v at the blue wire (5th wire from the right) which goes to the starter motor, when the key is in position 2 (cranking) am I right? Thanks all.
  10. Fitted the replacement fuse box today, connected the battery up, tried starting, still the same, ignition lights on dashboard, sounds like the fuel pump running for a few seconds, but still no sign of life. Forgot to take the multimeter with me so couldn’t check for voltages. The plot thickens. 🙄🙊
  11. Have just tested the pins of the fuse box socket pins for continuity and there is nothing which obviously means the fuse box itself is good. So I need to check the plugs themselves now to see if they are the problem still. Looks like I didn’t need the replacement fuse box after all lol.
  12. Cheers mate. 👍🏻 I got the relays and fuses off and the plastic housing but will have to get someone to do the desoldering bit lol.
  13. Any tips on how to get the circuit board off the plastic casing?
  14. I did rescue a smart a couple of years ago that had a seized alternator where the belt had snapped off, a good dousing of plusgas and a angled 24mm ring spanner later and it was freed off. My multimeter is one of those with a continuity setting whereby it beeps when the circuit is complete.
  15. Hi all, Thank you all for your replies. I did think that there shouldn't be continuity between the brown ground wire and each of the other coloured wires, but I just wanted a second opinion lol. The starter motor terminals will be the next port of call once im satisfied with the fusebox. Ive ordered another fusebox off ebay, but whilst im waiting I am going to take the old one off the car again tomorrow and check the continuity again across the pins on the sockets and also on the plugs separately, I will also take the circuit board part out as well and see whats going on inside. As for the alternator I will look at that once the fusebox is ruled out. Will update tomorrow with fusebox innards findings. .