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About chrisj

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    Wiltshire, UK
  1. I went down the country lanes to work this morning and got right up into 6th It's a hoot to drive on country roads. Shame it takes roughly 3 seconds to change gear, otherwise they are very nippy.
  2. No idea what you mean - it's a pretty standard cat/silencer I drove 5 miles or so this morning (15-20mins) after letting it idle for around 5 mins on the drive and got no more than 1 bar, so I think it needs changing
  3. Anyway, I put everything back together today. The lower intercooler duct was very annoying to put back on. Also took me an hour or so to get all the vaccum hoses back on the wastegate correctly, what with having about 8 of them needing to be connected up in the right order. Got there in the end though. I had previously cleaned off all the rust from the standard exhaust/cat - this got the red high-temp treatment (red, as it was the only colour available at the time). It can't be seen, but I feel like it might help get a bit more longevity from it if I can stop it corroding externally - as well as making any blows (if it does go) easier to spot. The tailpipe I covered with black durable paint, as that's visible. A little rust kicking around on the rear panel a bit - I might sort that out properly at some stage. When that was back on I let it run up a bit and it finally went into gear All that was left then was to run through calibration for the gear selectors, clutch actuator and drag point. All that was left was to run it around for a bit. I didn't go far, just razzed around the local area for 5 minutes, getting up to speed and changing through the gears. Struggled to get it past one dot on the temp - it hit two, but I suspect the thermostat needs changing - looks like that's a PITA too, which is probably why it's in need of doing! I did have a dump valve and hoses knocking about, so fitted that to see what it would be like (fully plumbed in as necessary), but it didn't seem to be doing anything - not sure if it's not boost, or if the valve needs servicing...
  4. It's also underrated that A/C dries the air too, so it's invaluable in winter or rain when the windows are steamed up!
  5. I have the panoramic roof on mine with black leather, which is apparently a bad combo come the summer!
  6. I have A/C on mine, and it seems to 'kick in', so wasn't keen on disturbing/emptying the system, so chose not to drop the subframe. I would have jumped to do it if it seemed like it was easily designed for that kind of job, but a lot of videos showed some cutting/bodging to remove the engine harness and hoses.
  7. Thanks. I've done quite a few in my time, but haven't taken a box out for 4 or 5 years now (went into IT instead). I'd pre-empted the job and read up on it thoroughly, and had been nervous about doing it as I'd read it required "2 people" and several other things that made it sound like something of a nightmare... but it's probably one of the easiest ones I've done. I've had to drill out a few bolts due to them snapping through corrosion, but it's been done in the cold, wet, and dark on my own on the driveway, so not really much hassle. Not that I'd put my hand up to do another anytime soon.....!
  8. Over the last few days I decided to add a layer of rust-preventative (well, more than bare metal) to the new components after seeing how rusty they seem to get. I used a red high-temp based, with a hard-wearing black top coat - you can see some of the high temp stuff underneath; it wasn't done for aesthetics, so not a great issue. Some of the photos are poor-ish quality, as I was using my phone in the cold and wet! So today's progress was to fit them. New fork & bearing: New Clutch Pack I did mark the old clutch's position in relation to the "tri-wheel", but it was a bit redundant as there appears to be a notch (on my petrol one, anyway) meaning that it sort of only fits in one position anyway. You can see the hole for it at the 6 o'clock position on the new one... I bought some M8 bar from B&Q for less than £3 and cut it into a few lengths (around 5" or so, but one I made longer to start 'hanging' the box on). These were hand tightened into the engine to guide the gearbox on, using a jack to help hold the weight This made it seem quite easy to slot the gearbox home by hand I then fully supported the weight whilst I temporarily tightened a couple of the bolts up, and then the gearbox mount (temporarily), before replacing all the gearbox to engine bolts The Gearbox Oil filler plug also looked like it had been raised from the titanic, and was completely rounded inside, so I cut a straight edge into one side with the dremel Which allowed me to get a good grip with some molegrips, and remove the corroded plug. I replaced it with a new alloy job, which I think might have been a new drain plug left over from a Porsche I had a few years back. It was pretty much exactly the same, anyway... I also fitted a new reluctor ring on the nearside, and felt like it was a good idea to throw some (optimistic) corrosion protection over that, too. I didn't spent too long attempting to get a perfectly smooth surface as I'd already fitted the ring by this point. This was then fitted back in. It's worth noting, at this point, that I found the removal/refitting of the driveshafts to be an absolute pain on these. The only way I found it possible to get enough clearance involved was to drop the gearbox end right down (for the nearside), or lift it right up (for the offside). I also fitted a new wastegate and circlip, as the old one was corroded and the housing had gone brittle I then spent a bit of time cleaning everything up, including sanding the driveshafts and painting them Still got quite a bit to refit, and the concept of it being 'fixed' is still very much theoretical still, but everything so far has been done properly, to my observations.
  9. I could, but I'm a bit weary about spending money unnecessarily. I plan on lubricating and cleaning up/painting lots while the gearbox is out, but I don't really plan on replacing anything that doesn't really warrant it. It's mostly because it's not turned a wheel for me yet and I'm already a few hundred in so far!
  10. Managed it just now Found a 17mm 3/8 socket from one of the cheap tat sets I have lingering around, then chopped about 10mm off the depth Managed to just about fit my 3/8 bar in with it.. All it needed was about 15 degrees to crack it, then each came out easily using finger strength These are the measurements for the curious. I'd have struggled and failed with it being any bigger.
  11. Car's on 104,000 and everything I've touched so far very much indicates to me that it is the original clutch.
  12. No worries - it's the 3 bolts behind the flywheel that allow the .assembled clutch pack to be removed without disassembly. I've since done a search and will probably see if I can cut down a socket to fit in place
  13. Weather's been terrible here, but thought I'd update. Gearbox came off to reveal a very rusty clutch pack Decided to pop the pressure plate off to actually inspect the friction plate - the friction surface was pretty worn, with noticeable step down from the inner section The fork and release bearing where equally rusty, and the release bearing was pretty much stuck in place, so it's not a great surprise it wasn't working well Part of the problem was that the grease (looked like moly) was acting more like a glue - I eventually cleaned it off with brake fluid cleaner I had a look at doing it by the book, but there doesn't seem to be anywhere near enough space between the sump and the cutout to get a socked and rachet in there, and the cutout isn't big enough for a swan neck spanner - how is this supposedly done? I'd prefer not to dismantle the new clutch pack if possible, so would prefer not to do the alternative method described on fq101
  14. I remain cautiously convinced this is mechanical on the basis that the actuator works and it can change gear when not running, plus the audible symptoms suggest the clutch isn't disengaging. The fact that the release fork looks like it came off the titanic doesn't bode well, either. I could bodge more travel out of the actuator, but if it ended up in the flywheel there'd be bother. I've ordered a full sachs pre-assembled flywheel and fork/release bearing set. I've been through all the docs and can't find any evidence of a clutch change, nor did the adjuster look like it'd seen on recently. It's on more than 100k miles, so I'm sure it's well overdue if it's the original
  15. I managed to clean and lube the housing and it has a strong snap to it. Once I'd reset the plunger back to fully retracted, then refitted it at pretty much the max adjustment, it is seen to be working correctly: This is what it does when you engage gear with the engine running: (The chugging around 4/5 seconds in is when I select a gear - it doesn't go in) The fork looks 'ok' in terms of punch through, so it isn't that. My only remaining assumption now is clutch wear/failure.