Bewildered

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About Bewildered

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  • Location
    Southampton England
  1. I’ve fitted a new ECU - reprogrammed and all sorted (I hope!). I have now spent over an hour driving without even a hiccup. Thank you all so much for your help :-) I will be messing with the old ECU to see if it was a reteach issue or corrosion - or just “one-of-those-things”.
  2. Eng temp 8C start 56C at /!\ point Trans temp 14C (13C outside temp) Cat temp around 300C Trans fuel shut off working correctly Same OBD codes: C1340 “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” I guess yaw sensor next - when I manage to get home !
  3. My plan is to record Transmission temp Calculated cat temp Transmission fuel shut off yes/no I have space for another line of graphical data - do you have any suggestions?
  4. Victory spin.... 😂 I’ll be in touch.
  5. Hi Sydney. No cruise control is fitted ☹️ Hi BWM From the condition of the parts I am taking off (and the ease at which they are coming out... no seized bolts etc.) I’m convinced it is not the first time the car has been put through this trauma. Unfortunately the previous owner will not take my calls.... maybe he thinks I want to complain... I don’t, I just want to hear some car history. I’ve left messages but to no avail. The written history that came with the car was the usual service stuff.... tyres, battery, oil, plugs, filters etc. etc. And it drove perfectly for 3 months - it is so frustrating 🤯 The plugs going in to the SAM are clean and corrosion free.
  6. Hi all, I’m back!!! I have some much better photos, but they’re still not great - and the 2MB limit is a bit constraining.
  7. Hi Sydney. I hear what you’re saying. The procedure hasn’t been tried in the working car. The only reason for touching the brake pedal is to get the car into gear. Once the car is moving the brake is released. It’s ok for a couple of hundred metres, then the /!\ light comes back on, the accelerator fails to respond and therefore (as the engine won’t tickover) it dies. As soon as the accelerator is released - the car dies. Once the engine is dead, I have to stop the car in order to restart the engine. Left foot on brake to go to neutral to start engine. right foot on gas to keep revs up ‘cos it won’t tickover (or start) without revs. Left foot still on brake to go into gear then release brake and just use gas.... 200m (or so) /!\ light comes on, accelerator doesn’t respond.... etc. etc. The only way out of this loop is to wait much longer before restarting - 10 to 15 mins... or so ! I’m really glad it didn’t come back for you - and I’m very grateful for your suggestion. Sooner or later something will stick :-)
  8. I’ll get my camera out tomorrow rather than using phone camera.... that way I can manually focus and give hi-res images.... up to 2MB anyway !!
  9. The other difference between our issues is the restart time-lag. If I restart immediately the car engine won’t start easily and won’t tick-over. If I “Left-foot” the brake to keep the gas on with my right and then try driving the /!\ comes on and everything dies. I can do this many times, but if I want to drive any distance I have to wait 10 / 15 mins. By “any distance” I mean 4 or 5 minutes!!
  10. Hi Sydney Thanks for joining our merry party 🎉 That is (pretty much) exactly the problem I’ve been having - unfortunately for me, I’ve replaced the actuator and the loom (both from a working car) so I know (for sure) that they are not my problem 😟 Did you find anything else askew with your car? Anything you might consider inconsequential? I really am grabbing at straws!
  11. I think it’s my photography rather than soldering ! The old solder was sucked out, pcb flux was then applied and new solder replaced. Please don’t think I’m ignoring you - I’ve got to go away for today, but will be back tomo around 10:00 (16.5hrs away). As soon as I have better photos I’ll post.
  12. Just the /!\ light.
  13. Mercedes solder is very high temp.... I’ve had to put my iron up to 480C to suck the stuff out!!!! All N11-5 pins re-soldered. Is there anything else whilst the SAM is out? I’ve done a visual check - but you guys know the problem areas!
  14. I concur - pins 10, 11 & 12 (at the other end of the bank) refer to ECU. I’ve had my trusty multimeter out and checked continuity from the plug side of the connector all the way to the other end of the “track” whilst waggling the multiplug - no joy... all fully continuous and not affected waggling - the resistance doesn’t change. I have my soldering iron out.... should I give them a dab of solder just to make sure?