Bewildered

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Everything posted by Bewildered

  1. Hi. I have read many posts on many forums but can’t find an answer to my problem. The car is 2006 450 700cc Passion. The car was working fine then without warning we had the following issue.... Within 5 mins drive the ESP light comes on and a complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 30 seconds / on - ESP light is off, engine starts hesitantly but won’t tick over. Within 500m the ESP light comes on and complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 10 mins / on - Everything runs fine for 4-5mins then ESP light comes on etc... From cold the car will sit still and run all day long - the engine will rev freely, the fan(s) cut in and out, there is no overheat and no illuminated lights. But go for a drive and within 5 mins.... ESP light etc. In no particular order, I have replaced.... Engine loom, alternator, starter, battery, clutch fork, clutch actuator, reluctor rings, ABS sensors, crank sensor, transmission speed sensor, transmission angle sensor, knock sensor, throttle body, map sensor, inlet temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, exhaust, both lambda sensors, timing kit (chain, sprockets, guides, tensioner), oil pump kit (chain, tensioner, sprockets), head gasket, There are no blown fuses in the SAM module and no apparent water damage. The clutch and gearbox will happily learn their places, drag points, fork positions etc. No gearbox lines (horizontal or vertical) on dashboard. Codes from OBD: C1340 which says “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” These codes will reset and only come back after the ESP light has illuminated. The alternator is a genuine Smart alternator - the part number matches the cars’ requirement on WIS. Can anybody point me in any direction I have not tried already.... Please?
  2. I’ve fitted a new ECU - reprogrammed and all sorted (I hope!). I have now spent over an hour driving without even a hiccup. Thank you all so much for your help :-) I will be messing with the old ECU to see if it was a reteach issue or corrosion - or just “one-of-those-things”.
  3. Eng temp 8C start 56C at /!\ point Trans temp 14C (13C outside temp) Cat temp around 300C Trans fuel shut off working correctly Same OBD codes: C1340 “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” I guess yaw sensor next - when I manage to get home !
  4. My plan is to record Transmission temp Calculated cat temp Transmission fuel shut off yes/no I have space for another line of graphical data - do you have any suggestions?
  5. Victory spin.... 😂 I’ll be in touch.
  6. Hi Sydney. No cruise control is fitted ☹️ Hi BWM From the condition of the parts I am taking off (and the ease at which they are coming out... no seized bolts etc.) I’m convinced it is not the first time the car has been put through this trauma. Unfortunately the previous owner will not take my calls.... maybe he thinks I want to complain... I don’t, I just want to hear some car history. I’ve left messages but to no avail. The written history that came with the car was the usual service stuff.... tyres, battery, oil, plugs, filters etc. etc. And it drove perfectly for 3 months - it is so frustrating 🤯 The plugs going in to the SAM are clean and corrosion free.
  7. Hi all, I’m back!!! I have some much better photos, but they’re still not great - and the 2MB limit is a bit constraining.
  8. Hi Sydney. I hear what you’re saying. The procedure hasn’t been tried in the working car. The only reason for touching the brake pedal is to get the car into gear. Once the car is moving the brake is released. It’s ok for a couple of hundred metres, then the /!\ light comes back on, the accelerator fails to respond and therefore (as the engine won’t tickover) it dies. As soon as the accelerator is released - the car dies. Once the engine is dead, I have to stop the car in order to restart the engine. Left foot on brake to go to neutral to start engine. right foot on gas to keep revs up ‘cos it won’t tickover (or start) without revs. Left foot still on brake to go into gear then release brake and just use gas.... 200m (or so) /!\ light comes on, accelerator doesn’t respond.... etc. etc. The only way out of this loop is to wait much longer before restarting - 10 to 15 mins... or so ! I’m really glad it didn’t come back for you - and I’m very grateful for your suggestion. Sooner or later something will stick :-)
  9. I’ll get my camera out tomorrow rather than using phone camera.... that way I can manually focus and give hi-res images.... up to 2MB anyway !!
  10. The other difference between our issues is the restart time-lag. If I restart immediately the car engine won’t start easily and won’t tick-over. If I “Left-foot” the brake to keep the gas on with my right and then try driving the /!\ comes on and everything dies. I can do this many times, but if I want to drive any distance I have to wait 10 / 15 mins. By “any distance” I mean 4 or 5 minutes!!
  11. Hi Sydney Thanks for joining our merry party 🎉 That is (pretty much) exactly the problem I’ve been having - unfortunately for me, I’ve replaced the actuator and the loom (both from a working car) so I know (for sure) that they are not my problem 😟 Did you find anything else askew with your car? Anything you might consider inconsequential? I really am grabbing at straws!
  12. I think it’s my photography rather than soldering ! The old solder was sucked out, pcb flux was then applied and new solder replaced. Please don’t think I’m ignoring you - I’ve got to go away for today, but will be back tomo around 10:00 (16.5hrs away). As soon as I have better photos I’ll post.
  13. Just the /!\ light.
  14. Mercedes solder is very high temp.... I’ve had to put my iron up to 480C to suck the stuff out!!!! All N11-5 pins re-soldered. Is there anything else whilst the SAM is out? I’ve done a visual check - but you guys know the problem areas!
  15. I concur - pins 10, 11 & 12 (at the other end of the bank) refer to ECU. I’ve had my trusty multimeter out and checked continuity from the plug side of the connector all the way to the other end of the “track” whilst waggling the multiplug - no joy... all fully continuous and not affected waggling - the resistance doesn’t change. I have my soldering iron out.... should I give them a dab of solder just to make sure?
  16. Looks good to me. WDYT?
  17. I’ve arrowed the back side of the connector
  18. I still think it’s perfect.... I’ve tried to get up close and personal with the photo - let me know if you want another angle.
  19. SAM is apart. It smells lovely and looks brand new. There is absolutely no sign of corrosion. I’m looking for a manufacture date because I’d bet the farm this has been recently replaced. Not even any dust. I’ve attached photos.
  20. And..... I smacked the SAM whilst driving - no response. I still agree that SAM disassembly is my next step. I tried replacing the pedal first ‘cos it was a quick change.
  21. Ok - SAM is going to come out.... after I get towed home. On an unrelated note, it’s not a problem with the accelerator pedal :-)
  22. Hi Wild! Thanks for your messages. Disassembly of the SAM is something I am wary of and have been hoping to avoid, any help in its execution is very gratefully received. I think I am almost at the point where SAM inspection is necessary, but I’ll try that sensor under the seat first :-)
  23. Hi Willys - SAM disassembly sounds like my next plan - and as a bonus - it can be done in the house away from the rain :-) I will try your idea of gently nudging the SAM box whilst stationary to see if this triggers the ESP response. It will also give me an excuse to bang my head against something hard - LOL. LooseLugNuts - welcome to the party ! I had recorded live data from all wheels whilst driving, also voltage drops / spikes, rotation angles of engine and gearbox simultaneously and a variety of other bits. There’s nothing unusual to report :-/ “Reduced power” is not entirely correct - it is a full cut of power, down to tickover. No throttle response at all. The ESP / engine problems are linked, but the ESP problem always precedes the engine failure. I can’t stimulate or simulate the engine issue without driving to trigger the ESP failure first. Also.... once triggered, if everything is left alone for 10 / 15 minutes then the car behaves and drives fine (for about another 5 mins). I don’t have to delete codes, I just have to wait. If I do delete error codes I still have to wait. Please don’t let me put you off - keep throwing those ideas at me.... something will stick eventually, hopefully!