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About gtjunk

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  1. Update, I reached out to a friend who's better at finding odd parts than I am. In relatively short order he came up with 1J0973701A as an Audi part that seems to be a match for the oil pressure sensor connector.
  2. I'm working on getting my spare 451 running again and making good progress; however, when the serpentine belt went out it took the oil pressure sensor plug with it. I have part of a spare harness, but the same connector on it is broken as well. The plug/connector is a waterproof design with the intergal seals to keep grud out and looks like this: Any of you have an idea of where I might find a replacement connector that doesn't involve acquiring and chopping up another harness?
  3. Looks like you'll get a few more years out of it. I'm in the process of fixing up my parts car and have only just stated the process. It's 2 years newer than my daily driver, but it's in a bit worse shape.
  4. As others have said, as a typical daily driver - especially if it's the primary car - it's probably a poor choice. Mine is pretty reliable and I'd say on average they are good cars, but when something goes wrong it's typically not a quick fix; no local support, so I do all my own work on it. They are fun little cars, but if you want a car you can rely on for years to come, get something popular which will have lots of parts availability and which your local mechanic will be more familiar.
  5. I can confirm we got the same bogroll as everyone else.
  6. That does not sound safe. Have you checked your suspension, tie rods, and wheel bearings? It's trivial to check them, many good videos if you don't know how. Mine tracks nicely with very responsive handling upto about 145km/h (90mph) at which point the computer gets scared and slows me down to save it's own silicon skin.
  7. I have not used it myself, but I have read on SCoA that Torque on Android (perhaps other platforms?) can pull can bus information with the ELM chipset. I use an iCarsoft MB v2.0 which works on my 451 and claims to support the 450 (but untested by me)
  8. I would think higher probability of breaking than from sitting or typical driving, unless the accident was very mild. If the accident was very recent, the break should be clean and not corroded, but I don't think there's a way to know for absolute certain.
  9. I've had the rear panel off and the vent is attached to that, but none of my images show in the inside view of the air intake vent. It likely pops in, but you might have to remove the rear panel to see how it goes in/comes out. Removing the panel isn't terribly hard, but there are some tricky parts such as when removing the side skirts. Shouldn't take more than about an hour the first time and less to reinstall. Be aware of the various plastic clips as they become brittle with time and have spares or be willing to jury-rig something The process of removing the rear panel is fairly well documented at as well as included in various forum posts, but if you need a hand figuring things out just ask.
  10. gt300 body kit

    Dunno, could be. If you get one, do post your pictures and experience. While I'm not really interested in such kits myself, I'm sure there are others who are and who would appreciate an honest, detailed review of the experience. As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
  11. gt300 body kit

    I don't know if it's just the terrible photoshop for the posted images or not, it seems the first pic is a generic image for a "gt300" body kit, though the rear images for those do not look quite like the one posted. I'm suspecting just more really bad photoshop, but the question in my mind is, why no images of the real thing?
  12. I use FreeCAD, which tends to support a pretty broad range of formats. but in general I think any of OBJ, STL, AMF, or 3MF format would be most useful (in order of my personal preference).
  13. If needed I'd be willing to give it a look and see if it's within my capability, I would need someone can get me an accurate model, sample part, or some very good dimensions. Would be curious to try some shell casting. No guarantees and no promise of a sample part returning in working order.
  14. If it were me, I would likely model it up in CAD and 3D print it from ABS or the like. If I was worried the ABS wasn't sufficient, Id create it in aluminum, but that's easier for me as I have the skills and equipment needed to make models/patterns, 3D printer, a small foundry to cast aluminum, and a lathe for the final turning. If this is a common failure and there's more than 10 people who would want one, I would point you over to or at to make a thread and see who's interested and at what cost. I'm no pro and I don't have one in hand, but that *looks* like a relatively simple part and shouldn't take a lot of effort to model and does not appear to be very complex. I suspect for a small run of parts it would be more affordable than most would expect.