alacazam

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About alacazam

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  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  1. 450

    Hi Willys, The car has been sitting indoors since i got it back from the local shop around x-mas, so no worries of working with plastic pieces in the cold, car is in a warm place and i would not even attempt at working outside in these freezing temperatures. I've come to appreciate working in a heated parking lot, after too many of these fine youth experiences dealing with a defective car in the middle of the great canadian frost :-) I was hit by other priorities lately so did not put much time on the car... issue still ongoing. I will dismantle the passenger side door at some point. will send an update when i get there. Thanks for the support !
  2. 450

    Hi Willys, Not much got done on the car since last week, aside from browsing for solutions. Got my paid membership on Evilution which helped find this thread that deals specifically with the issue (a lifesaver) https://www.evilution.co.uk/mod/450-central-locking-testing.htm . Says it is likely related to misbehaving door latches, wirings or selenoids. As my local shop said they tested both door latches (has apparently replaced the driver's side 2 weeks ago) and passenger door has been replaced last year, i may be barking at the wrong tree here, but eh, these things can go bad anytime and none of the replacement parts were new... Evilution shows wiring / testing scenarios, so I would give it a shot, but am debating whether I should remove the exterior door panels or just the inner/interior sleeves to get the to door handle connectors. Evilution recommends to dismantle the whole door (as one will likely have to replace the wiring/handle i.e. remove front bumper, mirrors, door panels, but it seems a bit over-the-top for my case ( if the local shop already tested that). My money is on the passenger door as it does not light-up the "dashboard indicator" when opened, but the driver's side does. What do you think ?
  3. 450

    Willys, You sure make me believe in Santa again, thanks for all the presents ! You've exceeded my expectations, awesome ! Already a member of Evilution (free) but will pay the dues as suggested. The car is in my heated garage, feeling very lucky indeed for this type of work. Carpets are dry now, but where damp wet when i got the car a couple years back...Took me a while to figure where water was coming in, Thanks to ClubSmartCar !.. The windshield had its issues as well, I was able to seal it all with silicone, syringes and patience :-) I had carefully and thoroughly cleaned around the windshield gasket prior to, so quite confident this is not leaking anymore, but will check again as these things have a habit of failing without notice... Carpets have been consistently dry for more than a year now (I usually park it outside), i check them regularly when we get heavy rain or meting snow. Been lucky so far... The only exception has been the rear side panels (below the quarter windows). I had assumed the window gaskets were at fault but could not find any replacement clips for the inner windows lining , so did not take the chance to undo them (seemed brittle). The local shop said it was likely due to the hatch's gasket needing reseating, which was done last week when the struts were replaced. Haven't tested if leak is resolved as it's been in my garage since then. Battery was brand new when I got it (stamped 2019) but will disconnect it the for any electrical work, as visual will likely be sufficient for a "first pass" . will test with power as i work my way thru. see how that goes Would have never guessed the location of the ECU, Thanks for that. So the screws holding it are difficult to access or rusted in ? will check it out. Thanks for the early warning, though. Someone suggested to me to squirt di-electric grease on all contacts to prevent water intrusion & corrosion (any comments ?) BR A.
  4. 450

    Hi Willys, Thanks for the reply and precious info on bulbs and the ECU warning.. I wouldn't have guessed it. From your post, it sounds I will be looking for a needle in a haystack... Thanks for depicting that right, at least i know what i am up against ! As I am not familiar with the Smart's wiring at all, before I start dismantling too much, any pointers where most of these connectors are hidden ? I assume interior door panels and front bumper housing will need to be removed. You did point out the tight centre console, is there anything I should remove to ease access ? I have no clue where to look for the ECU either... Best wishes, many thanks ! A. ps: should the "open door" console warning be lit on any open door ?
  5. 450

    Hi Willys, Thanks for the tip. Yes, two key fobs i have. The car came with only one which is likely the original, so I had a second unit cut/programmed about a year ago. Both fobs were programmed for the newly replaced SAM and both have same behavior. I forgot to mention in my post above, that the interior lights remains ON (instead of dimming out as usual) when ignition key is put in position-1 and the engine is started. The car beeps a couple times when driving off from a standstill, as if one of the doors/rear glass/trunk was still open / not properly closed. Funny thing is, the "open-door" console warning light stays OFF and the beeps only sound when the car is moving. If I recall, the normal "open-door behavior" is for the car to beep when put in 1st gear and the "open-door" console red warning indicator light to stay ON. Also, the car has been sitting in a heated garage for several days now, so no snow/ice/water should be interfering. I just noticed that the "open-door" console red warning indicator light comes ON only when the driver door is opened. I does not come ON when either the passenger door is opened nor the back glass/trunk door is opened, which seems odd. Can anyone pls confirm this is not the correct behavior (indicator should come ON if any latch is not closed) ? Many thanks ! A.
  6. Hi Wild, Thanks for the input. The tailgate switch was looked at, all working well, latch was lubricated and all connecting wires are sound. Do you know if there any way to test the tailgate switch (to know if it is working properly or not) ? btw, I created a new thread here (if you want the full story) : Thanks again! Alacazam.
  7. Hi ! Story goes that the car doors will not lock when pressing the lock button on the key remote. I do hear the locking mechanisms closing in the 2 doors and the trunk panel, but they all unlock immediately after. Pressing the unlock does de-activate the immobiliser so i can still drive the car. I am essentially looking for ideas as my local Smart mechanic has already spent many hours and replaced a few components without success to resolve this issue. I read most if not all threads on the topic in this forum, but did not get any luck so far. The Fusebox/SAM was replaced a few days ago (with a second-hand unit, in an attempt to resolve the issue) including reprogramming my 2 key/remotes. The passenger-side door was replaced (by a used one) about 6 months ago and the driver-side latch mechanism was also replaced a few days ago. The trunk panel was dismantled, all wires are sound. All doors and trunk latches work well. All doors close well and tight (no slack, well adjusted). The connector at the base of the battery was also replaced a few days ago (was seized). I doubt there is any link to it, but the front suspension coils were replaced last week (reason it went into the shop) so the front bumper panel was removed / re-installed. Any electrical wires / contacts to should check in that area (aside from the door connectors) ? The trunk window struts were also replaced last week. I am no car expert and would dearly need some help Many thanks and happy holidays ! Alacazam.
  8. Hi Giorgaros, I know it's been a while, but have you found the cause of the problem you had. I am facing the same problem now, and my mechanic cannot find the issue (after many hours of work, including replacing the SAM). Any help will be usefull
  9. Wow tolsen, never expected this. You obviously know how to teardown a transmission which is beyond my competencies. How would I know if there is water contamination in the oil ? I would imagine water droplets would show at the top ?.. What's the best way to check for this ? Were I to change the oil, reading this article on the topic https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=engine&mod=305#suprex , I would argue that ATF is the best choice over 75w90 (pls advise). ps: I am new to Smart cars, so bear with me, pls. Thanks for the pictures ! Will have to put this on the agenda, likely to cost more than the value of this car, unless I can find a friendly specialist.... Sorta wonder about the reason for these rubber seals. Bad design ?
  10. Hi ! Facing the same dilema, recently bought a 2005 CDI with 55,000 km. No clue if the transmission oil was ever changed... car history is foggy at best... What do you suggest ?
  11. Hi Famous, I am facing same problem (only one key, needing a spare). I don't understand what you mean by "with five" (typo ?) Anyways, I will likely face the same cut&program issue. Looking for one in Montreal area. Thanks !