PowerShellMan

Regular Members
  • Content count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About PowerShellMan

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
  1. Had to swap out the stock block heater in my 2006 (it was actually shorting out the house) and put in a Silicone oil pan heater. So have a laugh. Got the Silicone pad warmer installed just BEFORE things turned nasty and even picked up a cabin heater. I left it (the cabin heater) "unmounted" so I can switch back and forth between the cars On the maiden voyage I hear a "thwap thwap thwap" and (This why I am NOT a mechanic) I had inadvertently chosen the rear axle as a tie off point (I ran the power out the back). Looking under, ripped the power cord in half and *OUT* of the silicone piece. Impressively the piece is completely intact while "sans wire connected" As a backup plan I've put a battery blanket around the Smart battery and will keep the cabin and Battery warm. I also have a backup Eliminator booster pack (the kind that runs a Hair Dryer) The battery Blanket was all of $45. Putting it IN to the car (as it makes the battery physically larger) will probably mean a run to the LCBO to "deal with the stress" So we will see how the little White run fairs the winter with a 3 hour timer daily to warm the cabin and keep the battery warm with an 80watt blanket
  2. On the Diesel (450 CDI) I'd be curious on just how much extra "oomph!" you can get from this
  3. Agreed. I had it and cranked it up once.... way too much ( but fun to know I can) My summer project is to pull out the dash in the passion to find out what sub Mercedes wired in. There is one there and not under a seat. Under the dash and it used caps I think as I draws off left and right only and patched right into my Pioneer with no wiring change
  4. Excellent. In my case @LooseLugNuts This is a standard 12" Sub from Polk Audio in a Box from Best Buy (or whomever sells them). It just sits behind the driver seat, the Orion amp bolted on and all wires passing from the dash. I initially thought the amp was dead. This was my First ever amp wired in so I didn't know about the Pulse wire. I might just order in some extra connectors from Orion and pre-wire the second. The sub is HEAVY and....as far as music goes..... This sucker will be getting some ZZtop, Rush, Aerosmith.... "real music"
  5. So I expect the Alternator is putting out "just enough" for the car. Has anybody put a "Real Sub" behind the driver or passenger seat? Here's what I picked up 12" Polk Audio in proper box - $25 Value Village (yes works!) 140 watt Orion Audio Amp - $25 Value Village (a different one) So.... here's the question. If I plug it all in could it draw more current than the Alternator in a 2006 CDI puts out? or how close am I?
  6. I've been itching to drop in LED's for the low beams but the cost (usually about $140 at Canadian Tire) has made me blink and buy something a bit cheaper. On a drive back from Campbellford at about 8pm I lost one low at a Wendy's in Perth and then 15km later lost it's twin. So yeah, I was one of those "High Beam Bobby" idiots for that last hour to home. Turns out there is a new brand (Probably Canadian Tire's own) called "Ignite" that has a pair of H7 LEDS for $50. I'll get them mounted on Friday and let you know how they are.
  7. Thanks for this excellent post. My Pure literally dropped it's belt in the middle of the road somewhere in Ottawa. New one coming in from RockAuto.com and with any luck will arrive in time for the nice weather on Friday to change.
  8. Am I blessed? Yes I am Don took a good look at my 2nd car and it turns out the Beer Can (although STUPID looking) really isn't hampering the engine in a negative fashion. Nope it turns out all that oil giving the back of the car an "Ugly waterproofing job" was the oil pan rotting. So new oil pan on order and car will be fine. Caught it early enough that the freshly changed oil hadn't dropped deep enough to blow the engine! An added bonus for me (I read too many videos on Changing the Smart Fortwo 450 oil on the wrong engine type) I actually thought I had to manually pump out the oil on the CDI. So GLAD there is an oil drain plug to do the job! (But I'll still let Don do that work, it gives me a chance to let a Mechanic look at the car while its up to see if he spots anything) All I know is ... happy Happy HAPPY! Car will be in solid running condition for the Highway next week!
  9. Dropping off my Smart with Don Fournier in Ottawa in Thursday for one key reason. Some leak (I think it's Diesel) from the filler side on the driveway. Hopefully not too bad to fix but I have Budgeted to presume the Engine might need a drop. If so I will FINALLY get the "Beer Can" removed from the back which I think is the source of all the oil spraying Yeah.....I'll post the pic. It's an old thread on top Coor's Light can that somebody slapped in with little holes to "patch" a hose that goes to the intercooler and broke.
  10. Anybody know offhand what the cause is most likely for this? Initially bought car certified but Glow plug light would stay on all the time. Mechanic went into a lot of work. Plugs replaced, wiring checked. Eventually it was diagnosed as the Relay was bad. So Unplug relay in the meantime in the summer, order replacement, life good. Replacement arrived and installed (did it myself, two bolts off, pop off old connectors, pop on new, bolt up, done) So "new problem" (or thing) Start car (with replacement relay). Light goes on and goes off by itself. Start car. Glow plug Light goes on. But after I think it's 60 or 120 (I'll have to count but it's consistent) the light turns off. I knows it's not normal because my other 2006 stays off. So I'm pretty certain the Glow plugs are heating and shutting off. But does anybody know what this 1 minute or 2 minute delay after starting the engine means? Mechanically everything seems happy, just trying to identify what the Glow plugs are whining about.
  11. Neat. Didn't grab the 3rd Smart today. Fellow sold it on the weekend and didn't bother to tell me. Doesn't matter. I found a source for the relay (UK, same price here in 2wks or less Royal mail and reliable) and the 3rd car will be a certified '86 Fiero with T-tops on it. Fun summer car. Now the challenge is to clean up all the junk in the garage to fit both smarts in during the summer. 16 ft of little Diesel monsters and that means I have to actually "CLEAN UP THE GARAGE"
  12. My best friend once collected Lada Niva's for the same reason. You always kept a spare one or two floating about. Usually working but it was handy way to pull parts if needed
  13. No issue and not too worried. I may have a 3rd Smart Next Tuesday
  14. @Willys I may take you up on that. It's currently in that wonderful land of "Left Country A 7 weeks ago" and has yet to arrive in Country B. Let me know the donation req'd and cost of postage sean at powershell dot ca and I'll figure it out. It would be NICE to not see that silly "Glow Plug Circuit" failed light and re-connect the Glor plug relay Too bad the old relay couldn't be fixed.
  15. Now to figure out how to set the SCAN tool to list for the Turbo. My older one doesn't show "Turbo" as an option on the thing. Just trying to narrow down why the "Blue car" (newer engine) has less "Ooomph!" than the White car (Same year and the White one which pretty much SAT somewhere) is a Pure vs the Blue which is a Passion. Both have A/C and both have Mag rims. When the Blue one gets on the highway it WILL get to 120kph but definitely has issues getting there and the fuel economy in city is just terrible (I think doing 40mpg at best)