Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Bodie

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Antonio, TX
  1. Probably, but I have wasted too much time messing with this thing. I’m done with it.
  2. I went picked up a friends Snap On Solus scanner, it gave me a few more options to play with. I relearned both keys, teach in the transmission and clutch, went through everything and it made no difference. I went through a set of injectors, cleaning them up really well and installed them, still no start.
  3. Once the battery gets down to a certain set level the computer stops working and will not let the engine run. If you fool around with it trying to jump star it and changing batteries the computer can go into a safety mode and not start even with a 100% fully charged brand new battery.If it goes into safety mode, once a good battery is in place, you have to go though the starting cycle 10 or more times with the right amount of waiting time between tries (forgot how long- somebody ?) before the engine will start ,then like magic it fires up like nothing was ever wrong. People who were not aware of this have wasted many hours fretting away on the fuel system , SAM unit and electric wiring harness, some have even given up on the car all together thinking there was some huge problem that would cost too much it fix. Can anyone explain this process? I cannot find any info on it.
  4. I appreciate it Willy’s, but I don’t think a rebuild is in order since the compression check. The only thing I can think of that may need to be replaced are the injectors. But I feel that is pretty unlikely since I have swapped in two other used sets and none of them fire. I’m at a loss with this thing... I wanted to use this car for the pits at the race track. Here is my Cummins powered drag truck I built, figured the diesel guys over here would enjoy it.
  5. Just checked compression, they all have about 450psi of compression.
  6. I found the pinouts for the ECU and it looks like everything checks out. The ECU is receiving all power and ground signals from the SAM. I also checked all ECU power at the SAM and they are all correct. I am waiting on a new compression tester, which cylinder is #1? The cylinder closest to the crank sensor, or further away? Also, is there anyone who sells an engine rebuild kit that will ship to the US?
  7. Would MB Star be worth buying? Can’t you see and do a lot more with that software? Going to a dealer just isn’t an option, that would mean going to Canada 2000miles away.
  8. No, the only thing changed was the long block. I just got the engine back in with all the original sensors and harness, no change. Still no start. What kind of oil do these transmissions use? Online I see people saying ATF but it had what looks like engine oil in it.
  9. I am going to run out to my parts conex this morning and grab all of the sensors and engine harness off the old engine. I also think my compression tester is in there also. I will swap all of the old sensors and harness onto this engine and see what happens. I cleaned the injectors yesterday also.
  10. Yesterday I sprayed some WD40 in the cylinders and checked everything with a bore scope. You can still see the cross hatching in every cylinder. I can read RPM via the crank sensor, it will spin 300-330 while cranking. When I pull the injectors out, the nozzles and pistons are dry, the ECU just isn’t firing them. I may try to find someone with a STAR to see if they can do anything... would remapping the ECU possibly help? I wanted a performance tune anyway and EGR delete.
  11. this morning I dropped the engine again and reconnected every connection, and cut and crimped on a new terminal on the power wire at the alternator as it was a little corroded. Still no start.
  12. Does anyone know where I can find the ECU pinouts? I want to bypass the SAM and wire the ECU in a stand-alone type of setup. I tried AllDataDIY but they do not have the pinout schematics.
  13. I have not rebuilt the high pressure pump, I don’t see a need due to the fact it is meeting the ECU requested pressure. I have not pulled apart the SAM, I will do that now. Thank You for the advise!
  14. Hello everyone, new here and needing some help with my 2006 Fortwo CDI Passion I just purchased. I bought the car disassembled with a replacement engine ready to be installed. I got the new engine in and cannot get the car to start. Here is a list of everything I have done/replaced so far... New alternator New battery checked all fuses and connections/wires at the SAM checked all sensor connections no DTC codes 300 bar of rail pressure while cranking 300 rpm while cranking at the crank sensor ECU is commanding 20mm3 of fuel duration while cranking electric fuel pump is running engine has good compression WILL RUN on starting fluid, but dies after you stop spraying have tried 3 different sets of used injectors I’m not sure what else could cause the injectors to not fire... I only have a small diagnostic reader and I am in the US so there really isn’t anyone who wants to work on it... any help would be greatly appreciated.