Purplesmart

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Everything posted by Purplesmart

  1. 450 petrol models and the roadster do have 6 sparkplugs, which I do find odd in a 3 cylinder car lol.
  2. No clue what the speakers are mounted in. My car is the 2006 pure model, so I assume it's just the crappy 4" speakers, which honestly is a massive improvement over the JBL clip Bluetooth speaker I was using lol. I do plan on upgrading to the bass boxes with the 5" speaker setup eventually, but it's a want and not a need so it'll have to wait. And I'll definitely look into wiring the power supply to its own seperate source, all I did was just wire the new deck into the factory harness and figured it's good enough for now, I don't listen to music super loud anyhow and I do typically prefer driving with the radio off so I don't use the radio much as is.
  3. Finally got around to installing a radio in the car today. Got a Kenwood kdc-x300 deck installed. Owned the car since April this year and finally got tired of no music so it had to be done lol. Super simple and straightforward process, just hardwired in the harness for the aftermarket deck. Tried switching constant and switched wires at first as that's what I've read 99% of the time, radio worked, shut off the car, turned it back on and settings were reset. Then put constant to constant and switched to switched, and the stereo works perfect, settings stay as they should. Speakers are far better than I expected too! I do want to upgrade eventually but they'll do just fine for the time being!
  4. So, uh, what would be the best method for cleaning out the cylinder? Cleaning out the injectors today, and holy crap are they filthy. Injector #1 gave me the hardest time, it was rusted in, so I've gotta do a heavy clean on it (can't wait for the new nozzles to come in). Other 2 injectors came out pretty easy, #3 being the cleanest and #2 wasn't horrible. But yeah, ended up having to use a pry bar and vice grips to break it loose, and found the crap in the picture (some already fell into the cylinder). Should I just use a vacuum with a hose narrow enough to get in the cylinder bore to get out as much as possible? Any advice is super helpful, as this is my only car, and it needs to run by Sunday at the latest (crappy tire is a 5 minute walk away, so I can get whatever necessary to get this dealt with).
  5. That's the plan for when the new nozzles come in. Placing the nozzleless injector body's and associated components in for another hour long soak. Will definitely do a little vid on the old vs new spray pattern, I'm actually really curious to see the difference as well tbh, but totally willing to share on the forum here. Bonus to doing the pre cleaning the last couple days is that the injectors will just slide right out when removing them again which will be nice! Lol Thanks again for the input and advice, super appreciated as I learn working on these little cars.
  6. Injectors are all pretty clean after a couple cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner! Ended up just using silver anti-seize and got everything all put back together. List one of the retainer clips for the return line, so made a trip to Richmond Mercedes, those things are as valuable as gold.... $7.24 before taxes each. Car runs far better than it did, acceleration has a ton more pep, idle is nice and smooth. Looking forward to seeing how this has impacted fuel economy too and can't wait for those new nozzles to come in.
  7. Damn it cylinder #1!!! Why can't you be like the others... 🙄. Also, sudden realization here... There was 2 f**ken copper seals in this injector port! No wonder this injector was beyond stuck in the engine. This bugger is beyond stuck in there, gonna get a long M8 bolt as I've seen on some YouTube vids or try the flat screwdriver trick when I can go buy one tomorrow, not willing to pay much for a tool to remove one seal. But damn, looking at the previous photo I knew that bloody washer came off with this injector. What kind of mechanic worked on this vehicle previous to me?!? Other 2 ports are nice and clean, ready for injector install, just need to wait until tomorrow when I can get something to get this seal out and clean this port all nice and shiny like the others
  8. Just doing a soak in solution in the ultrasonic cleaner for now. Will deal with taking the caps off and doing a far better clean when the nozzles come in this Thursday (according to Amazon). Actually using spray nine grez-off mixed 50/50 with hot water, ultrasonic temp at 55°, and it is just destroying the carbon. Gave the rusty injected a light sand on the body to get rid of rust using 300 grit sand paper, it actually wasn't near as bad as it looked dirty, but definitely not as good as the other 2 injectors which came out fine. And yeah, I'll run over to Canadian Tire and pick up a little vacuum, somehow make a nozzle that I can attach tubing to and get inside the cylinder to suck up anything that fell in, because, alot fell in on cylinder 1. I just watched it crumble and fall into the hole, I was like, noooooooooo!!! 😅. Thanks again for the input Willys, super appreciated. Pic is the super rusty injector shown earlier, cleaned up quite well after a quick sand!
  9. Oh, had no clue, went of what everyone says is a reputable source for info on these cars. At least I know for next time now
  10. Was at 33ft/lbs (45NM) as per instructions on evilutions website. Didn't even get close to that torque before it snapped lol. That belt did look pretty good but one day I was under the car and saw the split as the belt was on the crankshaft pulley, belt looked kind of glazed on the ribs so decided to swap it out with a belt I've had in my toolbox for about 3 months now, been meaning to get around to it but seeing that crack made me get to it asap
  11. Got the belt change out today, previous one was cracked and really worn. Older cars are sooooo fun to work on, especially when bolts snap...😒. Ended up just using a ratchets and prayed the alternator to where it was sitting before, can twist the belt a quarter turn with decent force so figure it should do until I get a new bolt for the alternator and set the belt proper..
  12. Transmission has shaky acceleration from standstill, smoothes out once I reach about 10km/h. Also has rough downshifts on deceleration, and yesterday I had an issue where the car would not engage in gear after startup, I put it in drive and there were a ton of clicking from the clutch actuator and the car started to creep in reverse despite being put in drive. Haven't had that issue other than the one time however. Car has 129,000kms on it. From what I've read on this site and others, it seems that it is a common issue to have a hole wear through the clutch fork. I moved the actuator rod a bit by hand and it feels as though there may be a hole forming, would've taken the actuator off to look today but left a 3/8 ratchet extension at home so was unable to get to the bolts. Going to investigate tomorrow as I can't work on the car at home (strata owned building and strict on rules) and the metal fab shop I work at closes at 5pm on weekends, but I'm almost certain there's a hole developing on the shift fork. Knowing it's only a bandaid fix, I have machined up a part for the end of the push rod using a brass 1/4 inch flare cap, rounded it off to an outer diameter variance of 13.81-13.92mm (basically removed the hex pattern for the wrench) and inner diameter bored out to a variance of 10.03-10.07mm. Question I've got is, what grease should I apply to the end of the rod end that contacts the fork upon reinstallation? I've got some all purpose grease as well as high heat ceramic brake grease at home, leaning toward the ceramic stuff, but looking for input. I was going to use either JB weld or 2ton 2 part epoxy to attach this cap to the pushrod on the actuator, thoughts? Also, what other items regarding the clutch system as a whole should I look and and try to diagnose? Rpm sensor? Wires all appear fine and intact, connections seem clean and not corroded. Not looking to get the fork replaced yet as I've got turbo/EGR issues to be diagnosed by a mechanic (going to hold star automotive in Chilliwack on Friday for that issue), hoping to get this transmission issue dealt with for the short term until I get other stuff sorted. Video is of the part I machined up today, should work fine right?
  13. Yeah, it was the little white plug in the front of the battery inside the battery well. When I took it apart even further to see how bad it really was I could definitely see some burning on the connections and surrounding plastic from it arcing due to corrosion, good thing I caught it when I did. Good to know about what some of the functions it controls, wasn't having any issues pertaining to those but maybe it was causing issues for the SAM unit itself. Hopefully it is the issue that was causing the electrical faults I was having, so far so good, but its been less than 24 hours since the repair and I gotta give it a week or so to see if it really did resolve the issue. And yeah, the foxwell unit is great! Only downfall I have with it is that when I go to the abs diagnostics section, and go through the options to locate my car model, it only give the 450 up to the year 2005 so I can't select my actual model of smart. but overall it's a great little unit, done well for me pertaining to OBD2 stuff. Not sure what the difference is between elite and plus models, but it works for what I need it to do.
  14. Huge thanks Willys for pointing me to the little white plug, never even knew about it until you had mentioned it here this morning. Plugs are corroded to hell. Will delete the plug and hardwire it all together when I get home. What exactly is this plug for? I'll also take a closer look at the SAM unit when I get home if I happen to continue having issues with it. I opened up the unit in a parking lot so wasn't able to give a super close look at it, didn't notice any crack Solder but as you stated it can be very hard to notice. Thank you so much for the input, it's immensely appreciated.
  15. "Change is not a four letter word… but often your reaction to it is!" - Jeffery Gitomer
  16. Got some issues with the transmission popping up again, thought I was done with it but the car is telling me otherwise... I'm thinking it's electrical based but I just don't know. I've visually checked the wiring to the sensors, it all looks good. I checked the box next to the battery, the electrical board looks brand new and appears to be in great condition. I opened up the SAM unit today to check the electrical board and checked all connections, that board looks brand new as well, no corrosion or signs of burnt out connections, however on my code reader under the abs section I'm getting faults on the SAM unit (which prompted me to open it up and inspect it). Is it possible that there is a faulty relay within the SAM unit that could be malfunctioning? If so, are they relatively easily replaceable or are they soldered in? Are there any other transmission related relays I can check throughout the car? Could the actuator just need a re-teach? Could it be the TCM under the seat? It was quite damp under there and I dried out the foam/carpet last night, though did not remove that unit to inspect the internals. Only as of yesterday did the problems really ramp up. About 75% of the time I can start the car, put it in gear and go, and the car drives perfectly fine. The other 25% of the time, I start the car, put it in gear, and there's the popping/clicking of the actuator as if it can't find position. No ABS light comes on, no check engine light comes on, no nothing. I found the fault on the SAM unit via code reader by running diagnostic checks on relays, which tells me the faults it found. There is one other electrical related issue I've found, though I don't know if it could be the root of the issues I'm having. When I put load on the electrical such as pressing window up when the window is already up, the dash lights get really dim, and the engine bogs down a bit (see attached video, you can also hear the engine bog down). Activating signal lights do similar, though not to such an extent, but very noticeable even in daylight. Could this be the sign of a failing alternator, therefore the SAM unit isn't getting the power it needs to function properly? I've checked voltage of battery before startup (12.5V) as well as while idling for 5 minutes (about 14.0V-14.1V). One thing to note regarding the battery, it is not the stock battery, it is a bit of a larger unit. Stock battery was dead when the previous owner had the car and he replaced it with another battery he had on hand. The only other mechanical thing I could think of is the reluctor rings. There are no cracks, but there is a shallow groove on both driver and passenger side rings worn into the outer perimeter of the ring and they have a fair bit of surface rust built up on them (images below). I have ordered new rings and am waiting on them to come in, more so for preventative maintenance, but I can't see that being the cause for the transmission doing what it is on startup before moving the car. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I will be booking the car into the shop at Hood Star automotive (would love to get it into Eddy's shop but unable to contact him for weeks now, his shop is 5 minutes up the road from me) for a more thorough look at the electrical as they've got a star machine, but hoping to try and figure it out while I wait for my my appointment. Thanks!
  17. Another little project out of the way, huge thanks to stickman007 for the thread on creating the EGR bypass pipe and sharing the method for beading the pipe. Super easy project, got the vice grips free with Canadian Tire money, and the pipe and exhaust clamp were super cheap. Now for a little paint, and I am just that much closer to tackling the project as a whole.
  18. Decided to go with a bigger plate for the block off. Went and manufactured a 3/8 stainless 316 grade piece out of some scrap at work, got a new gasket from MB, and bolted it all together. It fits perfect! Now waiting on other things regarding this install (oil feed and drain lines, manifold studs, etc.) before throwing this thing in the car, can't wait to tackle this project as well as the full EGR delete! Such a fun little car to tinker with, excited to see what difference all this makes
  19. Curious what this line is, as I don't see anything it should be connected to in the general area, but I'd highly assume that it should be connected to something. No clue what the line is for, so no clue what to search for, it's the same material and diameter as the fuel lines it's bundled up with. Area is damp right in line with where this open line is pointing at.
  20. After sitting in a gas station parking lot in surrey for 5 hours, trying to figure out what was wrong, I think I may have found the issue (still concerned about that SAM code though). Had a buddy pick up a used actuator from a guy in Chilliwack for me, and as soon as it arrived I got right to work getting that thing bolted in and was able to car drive home with no issues, though we'll see if anything pops up soon. Decided when I got home to take apart the actuator I had in the car, and was pretty surprised at what I found... Upon first opening the actuator, I found a ton of water in the gear assembly, the amount in the photo was less than a 1/4 of what I initially found. The grease was brown, despite being white lithium grease I initially put in there. Goes to show how crappy those seals are at the actuator rod and how crucial it is to throw a couple pipe clamps on them to keep crap out, I will be doing this asap (just need to pick up a couple clamps to do so). Then, out of curiosity, I decided to pull the electrical motor housing apart. There was a ton of condensation in there, enough that there were beads of water in the housing. This had evidently been going on for a long time as there was an immense amount of corrosion as well, so much so that it actually hardened over time and has been happening long enough for rust to develop in the electrical housing as well! Seems the seal of the motor had definitely not held up after 14 years! With the new-to-me actuator in, car is shifting much smoother, doesn't shudder nearly as much at low rpms (rush hour traffic scenario), and I'm just really hoping this is what the issue was all along.
  21. Been having some difficulty with the car this past couple weeks regarding the transmission. Car currently displays the yellow triangle, check engine came on and stated p0702. I have gone through and checked all wiring regarding the transmission, it all looks good (no corrosion/cracks/etc. Checked the abs diagnostics with the scanner I got, and it states that esp/abs passed with no fault, restraint systems passed no fault, but what does have a fault is central electronics, SAM unit control. I have checked all connections to the SAM unit and everything is dry, no corrosion. Could this be due to a faulty actuator and the electronics of the actuator tripping the SAM unit triggering the fault code or something mechanical dieing? Last time I cleaned the actuator, I did see a small chunk of metal, so I know it's in bad shape. Now I'm currently stuck 30 mins from home, and car keeps bringing up the yellow triangle. Other than the actuator, what else could be wrong?
  22. Had a new turbo and manifold co e in for my 450 today! Super stoked to get this thing installed, as the turbine is really starting to go on the current one. Also made a block off plate for the turbo to EGR port out if 3mm stainless 316 material, fun little project to work on for my lunch break and it was free as the stainless was in the scrap bin. One quick question regarding my new shim, will this be thick enough to use as a cap, or am I better off hacking the flange off the line and using this newly made plate as a shim instead? Got a fun project to do this weekend!
  23. I need a new turbo for my 450, checked the play in the turbine shaft last night and there is a fair bit of play, as well as the fins on the turbine are scuffing the housing (squeals pretty decent between 2-3k rpm). Got the turbo ordered and it should be here in a couple weeks. I've also done the EGR delete via turning the valve 180°. Question I've got is upon installation of the new turbo/manifold assembly, and being that I plan on keeping the EGR blocked off, can I just bolt a plate to the exhaust to EGR flange on the turbo as well as bolting another plate to the EGR, and completely remove the line inbetween the 2 connections? I work at a metalfab shop so it would be nothing to get a couple pieces cut to size on out mazak laser cutting machine, was planning on using some .25" or .375" stainless 316 plate. Due to the EGR delete, I really don't see a purpose to having that line in there anymore, so it would be one less thing in the engine bay. I'd like to do the EGR emulator and complete delete eventually but later on down the road. What are your thoughts?
  24. I got one more potentially dumb question to ask regarding the future task, but figure better to ask rather than to assume and do it wrong. Just picked up the copper seals for the injectors in preparation to clean and replace nozzles, is there a proper orientation for the seal on the injector body? These seem to have a slight curve, almost like a shallow bowl, I would assume the face curving upward would face toward the body of the injector upon reinstallation so that upon torqing the injector back down, it compresses therefore creating the seal, but I could be wrong, can anyone please verify?
  25. Thank you so much Willys! Just ordered all the parts, and now the wait for them to arrive.