Dewie

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About Dewie

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    Nova Scotia, Canada
  1. That's the plan No it swelled between the dissimilar metals of the aluminum casing and the steel inside. Quite common here on the East Coast unfortunately ($%^&* salt) I think most of what you're seeing is oil/melted plastic that's black haha - I'll get it off and cleaned up and paint it and go from there. Thanks again! My list of parts from @Sydney is ever growing...
  2. Hmmmmm - after a bit of reading this morning I see I should be getting a "N" displayed before the car will crank and start; I still was not getting that. I really need to get a diagnostic system hooked up to it and "see" what the ECU thinks is going on.
  3. Thanks for the advice above Willys, I have the engine on a motorcycle lift so I was able to use that to roll it out from under the car. Before removing everything we did some playing with the gear selector motor. I manually ran it through the gears a few times by disconnecting the plug from the ECU and it is not stuck. We tested the resistance of the sensor used to do the re-learning process and it's within spec. After running the motor a few times we hooked it up to the ECU again and wouldn't you know it, the ECU is still able to make it move too; but we still got the 3 bars after a few noises. Unhooked and ran it through the gears a few more times then hooked it all up again and... it seems to be happy now somehow. No 3 bars anymore; but I can't get it to start still. We figured what the heck time to pull it; it has to be done anyways so I did just that. I don't know how this car didn't burn to the ground... We finally, for sure, found the point where the starter wire shorted. Check out the subframe ahead of the gear selector motor; there is a burnt hole. The alternator casing is cracked but I got it to free up on the bench with the impact wrench. For sure I need a new Intercooler shroud, I need to figure out how the frig to get the boost tube closest to the engine block off. We frigged with stuff for a bit but ultimately ended up spraying everything down with penetrating fluid and leaving it for the day. I aim to get the subframe off of the engine, pressure wash it and paint it. I'll pressure wash everything else also; in good time. That's all I found time for today, afternoon was spent season prepping and putting away the snow blower and snow plow followed by a bunch of related farm stuffs. I also need to look up how to remove the starter so I get it off and get it cleaned up... I'm hoping it's not as bad as it looks (separate the transmission???)
  4. I was going to pull the entire cradle assembly out from under the car. I need to access the front side of the engine repair the starter etc and everything is currently in tight quarters for trying to lay under the car. Basically everything is a mess and it needs to come out, be cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary and re-installed... Starter, alternator, egr, intercooler, ecu, turbo may be seized, etc.
  5. ... And the coolant lines...
  6. I am about to have at this again today, where do you folks commonly disconnect the fuel lines? Looks like the supply line goes down inside the block? Does this assembly just pull out?
  7. Not much of an update: Weather has been good so I've been clearing trees in preparation for a building lot for a new garage. I popped the test light in the leads for the gear selector motor, the light blinks 6 or 7 times when you turn the key on. I don't think the blinks are long/strong enough that they'd move the motor. I set about removing the selector motor to bench test and the shroud for the intercooler is preventing me from getting on the top bolt. I set about removing the engine/cradle and can't get at the bottom bolt for the AC Compressor. I set about removing the right side engine mount so I could drop the cradle down and access the bolt and broke off one of the bolts in the block. I then went to the woods and cut down trees. I'll get it all eventually - I just haven't the patience for it right now haha
  8. Thanks - I was more questioning my memory than what the insignia on the side said haha The service indicator actually has something like -21700 showing apparently As for rust, welcome to Atlantic Canada... this isn't even that bad. When the actuator pushes in it disengages the clutch; I'll dig in to that if/when it gives issues. One question I do about it though is if the boot is supposed to cover the hole in the bellhousing? Mine is not.
  9. Well tonight I A- Found the ECU and B- tested all the wires to the various transmission components to make sure they weren't shorted and had continuity. They do. I started to try to remove the ECU and just broke screws off. Not a huge loss as I have to replace the air box anyways. The bottom screws look like they're going to have to be removed with a swift blow from a chisel anyways. I tested all the fuses in the SAM, all were fine. I haven't removed it yet to have a look at it but that's on the todo list also. My father stopped by and helped me confirm there is absolutely no noises coming from the rear to indicate it is trying to shift. I was also able to confirm the clutch is shifting, so I guess that's a good thing. Is there anywhere, other than https://www.evilution.co.uk/, that has any decent wiring diagrams? they have them for the gas engines but not for the diesel. I assumed (correctly) that the pins for the transmission would be common between the gas and diesel but I'm at a loss for everything else. <Edit> Nowwww I discover there is a diagram for JUST the transmission... makes a hell of a lot more sense... One thing that my father pointed out is that the alternator light isn't on when the car is running... with no alternator belt... and no battery charger hooked up - so that's not ideal either. I wasn't able to get any normal ODB2 Engine codes to appear - well that is I couldn't get them to come back after I cleared them (I had everything transmission unplugged when I hooked up the power again, of course it had errors initially). I found this kind of odd as the car obviously knows there is an issue with the transmission as it's blinking the 3 lines of death. I even started the car and had it running a while with no codes coming back... My father was able to tell me that when I crank the engine over manually at the solenoid the wheels spin, but when it's started they don't, we're wondering if it is in fact in gear... I also need to look in to how to test the Gear Change Motor; if anyone has any tips or tricks there that'd be great too. It kind of looks like it's maybe a return-to-neutral solenoid? apply current one way and the plunger goes one way, apply current the other and it goes the other way? Just a guess from looking at the wiring for the thing.
  10. The car seems to have a glass roof of some nature; I've not really spent a whole lot of time looking at anything but the engine compartment. I believe it is a Passion? How the car didn't erupt in to a fireball I don't know, the amount of oil everywhere is impressive; and I come from driving old VWs haha. This combined with the amount of heat that was under there... owner was lucky! I'll likely do the JB Weld fix. Most everything I am doing is to make the car work initially, fix properly after. We will have to see what I find once I get the engine dropped. I REALLY need to look at the fuses yet too; I have yet to do so. The previous owner pointed out that some mod had been done to install external relays for the headlights, it looks like there is a fuse hanging off the side which feeds some external relays up under the dash. Ideally I'd take the car out and pressure wash it but there is all this white stuff on the ground and it's cold out so I'll likely have to just buy a case of brake clean and some rags or something.
  11. Well tonight there was some progress - though I'm not sure in which direction. I discovered there was a bunch more bunt harness, the harness that goes to the transmission, so I started tearing in to it and found the driver's side a bit more rusty than the passenger's side when I removed the inner fender. *sigh* Everything is bloody saturated in oil... Inner fender is nice and melty: Turns out the air intake is too: And finally I got the harness dug out: and then separated the charcoal from the wires and found really only the one plug NEEDED wires replaced immediately: So I did just that. Now when I turn the key on it says it is in 6th gear before flashing the 3 bars of death. These repairs also did not seem to have any impact on the starter solenoid wire. Lots of clicking under the dash like it is trying to output power but nothing at the starter end. I can't lie, I had my fingers crossed that I'd just plug everything in again and it would work, but I wasn't holding my breath I guess next I will continue moving towards dropping the engine some more. Already removed the back bumper this evening (turns out I don't need a whole bumper, just the center panel - woohoo). While I was doing some general cleaning I discovered this mess around one of the boost hoses, it doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling that the hoses are in great shape either:
  12. I don't think I'd try to pry it off...: https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/threads/smart-fortwo-shifter-cable.155731/post-1687966 is the threaded stud that goes in to the transmission "notched" or have a flat face? The graphic above KIND OF looks like it but I can't tell for sure and can't tell from your photo. If there IS a flat I'd just take the nut off on the selector rod and lift the metal lever off.
  13. I've had great success with EasyEDA and their in-house board manufacturing service for some projects of my own. The minimum 5 qty kind of sucks when you realize you've made it wrong though.... You pull the trigger and order these yet? For something like this I'd be AWFULLY tempted to just get them to assemble them for you - especially where you're going with so much surface mount. What are you using for a plug here? I can't tell if that's something 3d printed, or cast... or what? This project interests me for sure.
  14. yeah the maintenance interval thing is the least of my concerns at this point - but good to know!
  15. There is 168k showing on the odometer, or sometimes -2700?? No constant clunking noises, at least not that I can hear over the engine. I've been by myself working on it thus far so I haven't been able to get someone to shift it for me while I poke around either. I read up on the punched through clutch fork issue yesterday, which I find odd as it uses a very similar setup to VWs which last numerous hundreds of thousands of kms. I'm thinking it has more to do with excessive use with city traffic vs hwy use, though I have heard of people wearing them out when they sit at a light with their foot on the clutch vs shifting in to neutral and letting off the clutch. The Check-Engine light is on (who is surprised?!?! anyone?! haha) and the Air Bag light also, I'll add those to the list of things to fix