Mjolinor

Pretty simple are pullers. Just google injector puller and you will find loads of pics. You could have used mine if you were closer but I fear it is hardly worth the effort to get it to you.

You should use a straight pull for a stuck injector, not a twist unless it is the screw in type.

Vacuum is maximum at idle so that one way valve does very little when ticking over. The one way valve is there for when there is no vacuum because the throttle is wide open. The hose is soft. If you can''t get one then stick a spring up it that is approximately the right diameter to stop it collapsing.

If you really want help working out what it is then you need to put the car on a ramp and remove the two plastic covers. Follow the pipe from the one way valve at the top end of your photograph along the car to the front drivers side and look what it connects to. You need to replace the pipe before you drive off the road because the brakes don't work. Not real likely to happen but it makes sense to replace it.

Too many hills in a Scandinavian mile.

Nah, don't mind you being on the lawn. You can even dance on my lawn but don't be playing any of that devil music from the 60s or that stuff that is not music by any of the descriptions I know from after the 80s. The metric systems sucks. It is a totally not logical method of measuring stuff.

I cannot get over about 65 MPG no matter how hard I try. My lifetime average over five years is 62 or so or 4.6 litres / 100km. I don't know who invented that litres per 100 km but it is a proper stupid way to measure fuel consumption IMHO.

All Smarts will change automatically if you do not change manually whether they have the button or not. The problem is that it does not change up until you red line it. A button is easy enough to fit once you remove the gear lever but I think personally I would be more concerned with the three lines on the dash. Get that sorted first.

If you remove the seats then disconnect the battery first or you will have an ABS warning light when you have finished. Do not squirt WD40 in there or whatever is blocking it will get glued and you will never remove it.

There is no coding needed, just the barrel and mechanical key blade replacing. Because of the position of the lock they are prone to shite falling in. Try a can of air and give it a good blow out. The 451 does seem to be more prone to this than the 450 but that is just an opinion. I have never had the problem on a 450 but one of my three 451s is fiddly in that respect (also a 2012, not sure if that says owt or not). Hardly a representative sample size to draw that conclusion. It has been a while since I removed one but I think I remember that you can only remove the barrel with the key in the ON position. While it is possible to remove the gear lever with the seats in it is much easier to remove with the seats out. The four bolts holding the gearlever are security torks and are a right b#tard. Best to replace them or at least grind the nipple off for next time. Personally I would repair it rather than replace it but that does depend on what you find once you get it apart.

They normally only get engine fumes inside if you do not have the engine hatch fastened down.

Found another half dozen tracks / vias up the spout and another rotted pin. All back together and functioning as it should. Seriously glad about that, I was not looking forward to having to install Vediamo and go down the Star route to sort it.

Good for 451 but not the 450: https://www.mbonlineparts.com/v-2008-smart-fortwo--pure--1-0l-l3-gas

I don't think that digging old threads up from years ago just to have a dig at members is really the way to get on.

They are consumables on Smarts along with filters and tyres.