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About SmartFerrari

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    B.C., Canada
  1. It's working for me: Looked through their site and noticed multiple tire/wheel packages, plus the original sizes are still available (more brands too)... This will probably be the last season for my snowies as well.
  2. I'll look into that, thanks! The welds aren't as good as I would normally do it, as I was rushing a bit to get the job done. Even then, inbetween fitting-up/tack welding in the car (very tight!!) I spent nearly 9 hours on the whole job (plus that re-work the next day). Good thing I'm not paying someone else to do the work!
  3. 247K Km versus 56K Km... Shows you the difference between us! You're on the Island and I'm on the Mainland, temps/conditions are the same.
  4. Like I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, my daily commute is very short so that does factor into the problem. By the time I get to work, even in the summertime, I only have two bubbles lit on the gauge.
  5. Okay, so I thought I'd post an update to my - successful - installation of the cyclone separator and the EGR delete modification. Wow, what a difference! The car certainly feels like it has more pep to it. I also noticed it takes longer to warm up, in that when I take my usual route, over a certain distance I'd get the three bubbles on the temp gauge before, but now I have to go longer before the three bubbles come up. I've only logged around 150km since doing this mod on the Thanksgiving long weekend so I can't judge fuel consumption, but will later when I get down to an empty tank. It wasn't without some alterations though. I had to re-do my connection at the dipstick tube, because the fitting I welded on was angled too far out and the driveshaft brushed it when out on my initial test drive. When re-doing that, at least when I pulled the hose off there was oil in the hose, so the system was functioning (trace amounts of oil present in the cyclone/separator as well!). I also had to strap down the separator/cyclone as it vibrated a lot with engine vibration and rattled on the chassis rail at certain RPMs. Please note that for the EGR delete, I rotated the piston assembly (as noted from elsewhere in this forum), but when the assembly is installed fully home, there is a micro gap at the bottom which could allow soot to enter over time. With that in mind, I made a blank-off plate as a double measure. Will check next year at my next oil change interval to see if I have any oil build-up in the hoses and intercooler header. I made the cyclone/separator out of stainless tubing (1/2" OD) and the unit itself is a left-over item I had in my toolbox at work (a float for a propane tanker-truck "Rotogauge" level indicator gauge). There are many photos with some descriptions. Enjoy!
  6. Oh wow... I'll keep an eye out, but I think I'll keep my Jetlines for now! Thanks
  7. Thanks Mike for the confirmation. Do sets of Crossblade wheels come up often for sale (knowing well enough that model wasn't sold here in Canada, so sources would be european suppliers or ebay)? Average prices? I love the look of the Jetlines, but if I remember correctly, although they utilise different offsets, at least all four tires are the same size(?) on those Crossblade rims...
  8. I suppose these are the tire sizes available for the current 451 smart? Would they be able to fit on my 450 Jetline wheels? I'll be putting my snowies on soon and my current all season Conti's are just about at the end of their life (not mileage-wise but age. They are the originals and the date codes are now eight years old - about the generally-accepted max age for tires).
  9. Sounding tube? Do you mean the oil return line from the turbo, or the dipstick tube? On my Ferrari, the CCV system is nearly identical and features a return line to the top of the oil sump: The tube you use for taking oil soundings. Photo shows brazed on tie in at dipstick tube. The two black hoses are cooling hoses for oil cooler. Belt is alternator belt. Part of timing chain cover is also seen. The black horizontal tube is right hand side drive shaft. A rope is tied around it - a left over from when I was testing out different size restrictor plugs and kept draining and refilling coolant several times per day. The rope made the coolant run into my drain tray and not dripping all over the place.. I used a clear hose initially so I could visually verify whether my separator was working. You can clearly tell it has oil in it. Aha! The dipstick tube! Got it. So obviously you've had no issues with oil surging up your hose from the sump? I suppose with the generous length, even if there was some surging, it wouldn't be enough to splash up inside the cyclone. Now armed with this amazing info and photos, I'll be able to do this and enjoy worry-free driving. The instances of the EGR gumming up were never in mid-drive, but when it did happen (like getting ready to go home after work), it was a good thing I live close by. Very annoying trying to drive a car so gutless. Many thanks again Tolsen and to the others as well.
  10. Sounding tube? Do you mean the oil return line from the turbo, or the dipstick tube? On my Ferrari, the CCV system is nearly identical and features a return line to the top of the oil sump:
  11. An old-timer welder in my first job taught me this saying: "When in doubt, build it stout, with materials you know about". So what you're saying about the condensation is that once I go through a tank of fuel, I should have about 30 litres of water in my crankcase? If people like Tolsen and others are using a cyclone catch can and just returning the condensed oil back to the sump through a drain tube, then what about the condensed water from the atmosphere? Shouldn't that just eventually make it's way out through the crankcase as well, out the CCV port, into the cyclone and up through the outlet vent, into the intake tube?
  12. Nice. It looks like you have some undercut there in pic #2 Thanks. I tend to make myself more work than I have to.
  13. Thanks for posting these photos! After I had posted my reply, I was poking around and came across your photo of the installed cyclone. The drain is connected back to the sump, correct? Whereabouts exactly? I have a spare, original sump (which was replaced by the Smarttune drain-plug version), so I can weld on a fitting to accept a return hose from a cyclone. I was thinking that maybe somewhere near the highest point of the sump pan... I also saw that piston remover ratchet a while ago and was inspired by it. I figured a puller could both remove AND install. Required a lot of machining though...
  14. So is this what you're using?: You reference this ebay ad in a thread in this section...
  15. Okay guys, thanks for all of your replies, I appreciate it. I should have come here first before making one... In any case, I'll post the photos of it and I wlecome critique (oh boy, I may regret that! ). So the consensus is that the passenger's side is too far away? I was planning on using 3/8" ID hose to route to and fro, but with the mention of garden hose, that's typically 1/2" to 5/8". Surely this engine can't be pumping that much gases into the crankcase? I must admit my severity of oil in the intake tract is really due to my short trips I make with this car on a daily basis. I can't help it. I live about 6km from work and use this car as my daily driver. I drive into Vancouver at most, twice a month (I live AND work outside the city, thank God), so it doesn't see much highway use (56,000km only on the odometer). Or maybe, I'm making too much of a big deal about the oil accumulation, as I don't have a reference as to what is how much or how little. This is my first diesel car and turbo'd car. To me, the combination of the oil vapours and the exhaust soot is what gums-up the EGR, so if I can eliminate both, then all should be well(?). Thus my reason for keeping the EGR in place and just blanking off the exhaust port. Anyways, here's the pics of the tank, plus a tool I made to extract the piston out of the EGR body for better cleaning: