dieselkiki

Regular Members
  • Content count

    553
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About dieselkiki

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St-Valérien-de-Rimouski (Québec)
  • Interests
    écologie, énergies prorpes et renouvelables, changment climatiques, décroissance, simplicité volontaire, autosuffisance, permaculture, les ressources naturelles, l'achat local, etc...

Recent Profile Visitors

943 profile views
  1. Hello, I was told I could ask you about converting my 2005 Roadster to electric, can you help me? Thanks, Michael.

  2. Cerakote? Hmm, I'll take a look at. Owner neglect? What kind of maintenance the owner failed to do to have her turbo eat as this? Coated the exhaust manifold or turbo with high temp paint or other coating don't seem's to be in the maintenance guide of the smart fortwo CDI 2006 and I seriously doubt that a mercedes-benz dealer somewhere in this world provide this kind of care on any smart CDI. So Tolsen, ... I think more about a bad conception than an owner neglect.
  3. Quite normal? I never had to deal with that kind of rust on any turbo before. I'm working 4-5 days a week on diesel engines: Caterpilar, cummins, navistar, perkins, yanmar etc... and these engines are used on the same salty roads but there are no engines components who rust like this smart turbo charger! Even my previous car (mercede 300SD 1983) who was drive for over 25 winters on the same roads was showing far less rust on turbo and exhaust parts. It's a shame! I realy think that a part who cost over 2000$ to replaced should be more reliable and factory rustproofed or stainless made. At least, it should be made in the same alloy of other makes of turbos who seem's to have a better rust resistance.
  4. Bodyshell don't seem's to be that bad and the undercarriage too. But we must admit that this car wasn't desinged for the Canadian climate for sure. Not for the Québec at least. When I see that rust and when I look at some mercedes-benz sprinter truck who rust after 2-3 years, I can't imagine what it's could be if the bodypannels of the smarts were steel made!!
  5. Am I the only one to tought that if the smart car is known as "ecological" car it's could be because some parts on this car seem's to be biodegradable? Especially the turbo charger unit! Last weekend I replaced the turbo charger on a friend smart's because there was a crack into the exhaust manifold and the exhaust leak make the car got the performance of a dead pig (Or almost...). But when I removed the rear bumper and saw the turbo... WAW!!! What the hell is eating the turbo housing like this? That was looking like "iron termites" who's eating the turbo housing. We can see the treads on the screw who keep the turbo core to the exhaust turbine housing! I'm diesel mechanic for almost 16 years now and I never see something like this before. There is certainly bad material or there's a major error in the desing of the turbo location on this car (road abrasive/water/dust). Well, I'm still happy to have sold my smart when I saw this kind of failure... If some of you have found a trick to reduce turbo unit corrosion, please don't hesistate to share with us. Thanks! Have a good night guys! Dom
  6. Yeah! Thanks for your advices. I'll miss the plastic body pannels for this reason. But for the hardware, I'm already that kind of guy who don't screw back any screw without any antiseize or loctite (as required). So far, screws and nuts seem to be in better shape (rust) on the subaru than my smart and our outback is one year older than my smart so... I don't saw a big difference about the bolts plating and rust between smart and subaru. Then, it way far more easy to work a boxer engine in a subaru than working on an OM660 in a smart diesel. Everything seems to be easy to replaced or removed on a boxer: Alternator, starter, timing components, plugs, wires... even the engine seems to be easiest to removed than on a smart cdi. So... time will reveal if our choice was the good one. Marianne still own her cabrio but it's for sale now. She don't want to drive it one more winter in here. There are too much snow and too much wind beside the sea so, I think the smart is the worst car to drive where we live now. She look for a 2008-2010 hatchback impreza,
  7. I miss this club and this forum too Mike! I hope there are great peoples like the ones I met here on some subaru clubs. Long lasting to csc and please, continu to be a precious source of useful technicals information and a very precious source of good peoples. Never have to loose it! Dom
  8. Hi Folks! Thanks for all your good wishes guys. But you know... life goes on after the "smart life". So here is some news about what is going on since I sold my smart. Some of you already now that now that we live in a remote cottage from a remote village where the roads are not plowed during winter, the smart became a real problem to get out for work, grocery, water (we have no tap water), etc... so, an AWD car wasn't an option here. That's why we bought an old subaru impreza last december. This car is just amazing in snow! We were very very satisfied about this car for all the last winter. I still remember a morning of last march where Marianne get out to start her smart and when she came back in the house she said: "Dom! We are trapped! There are snow over the wheels of my smart and over the subaru bumper! What will we do?" I said: "We will take the subaru dear and we will go to work!" I took a picture of this morning where I falled in love with subaru... So, even if this car is amazing in snow, unfortunately, it's not a young car. A 1999 car who's 4 seasons drived on over 300,000km could failed at anytime so when I sold the smart in last march, I realy needes another car who can drive over 6 hours in the same day without any chance to get stuck on the road. I saw and tryed alot of cars. Some 4matic mercedes-benz, suzuki SX4, toyota rav4, newer subaru: forester, impreza, legacy etc... I spent close to buy a mercedes-benz E320 4matic 2004 but during the road test with seller, the check engine light and ESP/ABS goes on. Well... does I realy want a car who should have the same electricals gremlins as a smart but more $$$ and anoying to repair?? The answer was difinitely NOT! I finally stoped my choice on a 2005 subaru Outback manual 5 speeds well équiped. It's the same car as a subaru legacy but the suspension is 2 inches higher from the ground. As I was realy satified with our old impreza, this choice inspired me more than another "Merdecedes-benz" product. So, here is the beast! Of course, I bought this car for a cheap price because there was same repairs to do on it like link kit, swaybar bushings, timing belt, wheel bearing etc... But when I did the front swaybar bushing, I saw an oil leak under the engine. After a quick wash and a short drive, I finally came to the conclusion that the left head gasket was leaking. I read on some subaru forum that almost all subaru 2,5L boxer engine are prone to head gasket issues. Well... fortunately these boxer (flat pistons) engines seems to be far more easy to work on than my previous OM660 800cc turbodiesel. I still understanding something interesting by selling the smart and buying another brand of car. A car is a car! Regardless of brand, model, year, or price, whatever you do, a day will come when it will get our hands dirty! I hope that our Outback will be a reliable car after all the repairs needed. Cause if it doesn't... our next vehicle could be an( ALD) "ALL LEGS DRIVE" véhicle. Something like a reliable horse or camel maybe! Haha! So guys, I miss my smart every time I fill one of our subaru. Yeeeaaaap! If someday you dream of a car who drink like a pickup truck, buy a subaru! But seriously, the smart 450 CDI will always fascinate and will always be an interesting car for me. We never have say never eh! Because we can get the man out from the smart but we can't get the smart out of the man! Have a good week guys! Dom (amost healed from smart)
  9. Ah! Je ne savais pas toute l'histoire. Si ça puff blanc pis que ça sent le fuel mal brulé... là un trouble d'injecteur peut s'avérer probable! T'as enlevé tes injecteurs? T'as nettoyé les tips? T'as observé de micro-fissures au niveau des tips ou d'autres anomalies visibles à l'oeil? Pas de codes moteur? Anyway, je ne sais pas c'est où ta place d'injecteurs à Montréal ni quel type de job qu'y font mais... c'est pas cher!
  10. Yup yup yup! Guys, today was an emotional one! This morning I have to removed all my personal stuff as CD's, tool box, snow brush, tires repairs kit, flashlight, license plate, etc... form my "reliable lemon". After 8 years, 1 month, 11 days and 282,389km behind the steering wheel and an unumbered amount of hours to dirty my hands on this car, it was time to passed the key of this thing to its new owner. Fortunately, I'll be able to come back here sometimes to remember to myself all these memories and all these adventures we live with this little rolling thing. All our road trips, all these repairs, all these failures and issues... I didn't know that I was so attached to this car. It's a part of my own identity and personality who goes out from my driveway today! So... I would share with you this event guys... I still don't know which other make of car will replaced the smart but it'll be hard to don't go back with an old reliable Mercedes-Benz product. Have a great weekend! Dom
  11. Injectors eh? Hmm... interesting but... I doubt that it's your starting issue source. You could make a quick test when your starting issue will occure next time. When the starter is cranking the engine, look at the tail pipe to see if there is any smoke (white or black). If there's no smoke (as I expect), there's no fuel injected. No injection expected source: - No ECM power feed or ground (Bad wiring/harness/ground connectors/etc...). Does your CEL goes "ON" when you turn the key "ON"? Yes = ECM is powered No = Burnt bulb or no ECM power feed. - No power to the fuel feeding pump (SAM unit N-11 connector/bad wire behind the right rear inner fender liner harness etc...) - Not enough fuel pressure in rail to allow injection (Clog fuel filter, worn HP fuel pump) it will not always turned "on" the CEL. - No or bad crank position sensor signal (Bad wiring/electromagnetic induction/bad sensor/bad ECM connection) Sensor resistance should be between 800-1200 ohms at ambient temp. (+/- 20°c) So, as you look like a guy ready to buy and replaced the crank position sensor, I guess that you already performed all the tests and observations required to be sure that all above are ok except for the crank sensor resistance right? So, by this way, your CDI should start right up very soon! Je te réitère mon offre pour de l'aide David. Si t'as le temps de chienner là-dessus ce soir, je part de Saint-Valérien pis je monte chez vous! J'ai du temps live! Texte moi au pire. Sinon bah lâche pas! T'é proche du but je crois.
  12. I think that I got one. Let me know if you need it.
  13. I was made a special setup of tools to be able to put enough torque to unscrew this screw on Marianne's smart. But that was still difficult to do. Trust me, I put ALOT of antiseize paste on the screw and even in the hole when I put it all back in place.