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Everything posted by gauchorojo

  1. Hi folks,On my way home yesterday, I noticed Digory's acceleration was sorta sluggish. No codes shown at first. It seemed to accelerate normally up to about 2500 rpm, but then it would flatten out. It did make it to its cruising speed of 110 kph, just sorta slow getting there.This morning, the CEL light was on from first start. SG2 said P0405, and it would not reset. It performed the same way on the way to work as it did last evening. The fault seems to be a hard fault.Is this code the same as the one that requires the cleaning or replacement of the EGR, or is it something else?Thanks in advance,
  2. Hey, guys!I am at my friends shop, trying to replace the stock fuel tank in Digory, my 2006 Grandstyle coupe. Our WIS has locked up and cant view the instructions for removal. We need tips on removing the filler neck obstructions to allow the pulling out of the tank.It looks like we may need to loosen the subframe bolts but dont want to do that until we check that it is really necessary.Can anyone please print/scan/email the WIS instructions or any tips?Thanks in advance,Edit: Improved title.
  3. Hi everyone!Are any of you smart owners in these states? I live in MS. My daughter saw a smart car in Nashville TN today, but could not see the tag to verify where it was registered.Anyway, I thought it would be helpful to compare notes with "neighbors"Take care,
  4. Hey cousins, I am getting ready to replace my front wheel bearings/hubs, and all shock struts and springs for the first time. Digory has over 217k km and the ride is getting rough. I noticed there is a number of hardware pieces in the buildup up, especially on the front struts. I would like to put one order for all the parts I may need, and wonder if there are any that I will likely NOT need. The evilution DIY instructions and parts breakdown and related posts here are, as always, very helpful, and I plan to use them all. I think I will go with bilstein shocks and H&R springs, trying to maintain as comfortable a ride as possible, for a smart. I will get the OE front wheel bearings/hubs. Any ideas as to which of the strut hardware pieces I should or should not need to replace? Or should I get whole kits? Thanks in advance!
  5. Hi cousins! Digory, my 2006 Grandstyle coupe with 224k km is having intermittent starting problems. It happened twice this week, after work, at about 4:30pm both times, and with day temperature highs around 21C/70F. The first time, on Saturday afternoon, I went to start it, and everything was normal, the engine turned at what appeared to be a normal rate, the battery voltage was 12v, no lights remained on, but it just didnt fire up. Turned the key off, and checked the SGII for codes, none stored. I waited a few seconds, cycled the glow plug twice, just in case, and same results. Tried to listen for the LP fuel pump, but it may have already primed enough pressure, because I didnt hear it. Tried it again a total of about eight times, and then it fired up normally. Sounded completely normal. It run normally (no limp mode), it had no codes stored still, and I drove home normally my 80+ miles home. On Sunday morning, it fired up normally, and I went to work without any problems. That afternoon, it started normally again! On Monday morning, it again started ok, and drove to work without incident. But, in the afternoon, it started after the fourth attempt, and run fine thereon, all the way home. A little history/background: I drive Digory daily, just over 52k km/32k miles per year. I reinstalled the original LP fuel pump when I upgraded to the 33 litre fuel tank in Mar 2010. It has a two year old alternator, year old fuel filter/separator, intercooler, and Optima Red Top battery, and I blocked the EGR last year. Engine air filter changed in June 2011. Up to now, it has run flawlessly. No CEL, no fuel/water separator or battery light, no codes stored. The battery showed 11.9vdc and 12.0vdc just before it cranked, respectively. The alternator seems fine, since it shows 13.9-14.1vdc with engine running. All fluid levels are normal. No leaks anywhere. Fuel-wise, I used ASTM rated B-5 to B-10, which I splash blend separately in a drum and re-filter with a Goldenrod water-block fuel filter. Glow plug light extinguishes quickly, even in cooler days. My suspicions, not having looked at anything yet, are as follows: A. Not enough fuel pressure to start. B. Not enough heat for startup compression/combustion. Thus, 1. LP fuel pump in the tank? 2. Glow Plug(s)? 3. HP fuel injector pump? 4. Fuel pressure sensor or pressure bypass valve on common rail? Unfortunately, there are no 450 cdi smart mechanic shops down here, although I could entrust Digory to my friend and MBenz indy shop owner, but his learning curve is steeper than mine, as I have done almost all the maintenance on Digory, except for a few things Tom has helped me with. Part swapping is not a viable option to fault find either, since I have to get them from you cousins up in Canada or Europe. Today, I drove to work aboard Kaiser, my '85 MB 300CDT Coupe. A while ago, my wife said it started fine for her, but she did not drive it anyway, JIC. What is the most reasonable course of action, in your opinions? Where do I start? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards,
  6. Great post #14, Tolsen!That one should probably by a sticky DIY. Moderators?Now I will have a little project manufacturing a reamer and a compression tester adapter.Thanks for all the inputs and feedback. Once the glow plugs come in and I install them, I will update results.Cheers,
  7. I have 12vdc at each of the three glow plug connectors. Each glow plug had 0.5ohms resistance. Since the vehicle has over 220k km, I will change them anyway. I removed them per the tips and instructions from y'all and links posted. They dont look too bad, but the combustion chambers look sooty as heck. Is this normal? I saw Tolsen's reaming tool, but cant quite tell how the drill bit is secured onto the sacrificed plug. Clarify, please.Thanks a lot to all for your replies. Battery ckd fine, even under load. I think I misspoke when I said "12v". I read 12.8vdc consistently. I guess I rounded it down instead of up, in my rush to post. I do recall on the 8th attempt the first time it gave me trouble, that the SGII showed 11.9vdc, but that was after 7 long attempts to crank. I will definitely look at the grounding bus bar above the intercooler one of you mentioned. I forgot it was even there. I have a set of glow plugs on the way (Thx X 10tothenthpower to Glenn) and will install them next week.Meanwhile I will try cleaning the chambers and look for other possibilities.Cheers,
  8. Not all ratcheting screwdrivers are made the same. True, most of them are toy like quality. The ones I and most of my mates at the airline use, daily, are these: They are great quality, small precision gears, reversible, tip-exchangable, shank length changeable. But they are not cheap. I have a set at work and these two at home, to meet most of my DIY needs.Cheers,
  9. Thx guys!I will ck both items. I have a hunch it will be d glow plugs. I found a great thread here on glow plug replacement, with pictures and all: perfect for a "visual learner" like me Does anyone know if d glow plug "controller" is a glorified relay, or is it more modern than that?So, armed with a Fluke I will ck this out tomorrow morning and report findings. I read I am looking for < 1.0 ohm on good plugs, and > or OL on bad ones...Cheers and thx again
  10. Right on, Chris. For example, after having my TBN checked several times, even at higher intervals, it was still at 10, which is quite good. So I quit paying extra to have it checked, since it seemed to stay very well within the recommended value.On another variable, I came across a 160 USgallon supply of ASTM rated B100, which I started splash blending into B20, to see if I can improve lubricity and the results of the next SOAP reports. I just did my first oil change since using B20, but did not take a sample this time. I usually do it every other oil change. I will update here when I get the next test done.I do have a couple of tranny fluid samples that had good reference values. I will post them when I find them...Cheers, and try to stay warm up there, will ya?Your cousin down South,
  11. Try this place: . They have the complete wiper mechanism for E79.00 plus s/h. A US acquaintance who bought gliders and motorized them in country speaks highly of this place. He said his contact has been Chris, he speaks some English and can read English for the most part. Here is Chris' email address: European-Smartis-Marketing GmbH Behringstrasse Nr. 8 63456 Hanau Tel :0049(0) 6181-18013 0 Fax:0049(0) 6181-18013 13 Web Smart : Of course a local to you salvage yard may be less expensive... HTH,
  12. Thanks for helping me comprehend Digory's report! I was worried about the FE numbers, but when you factor in the "per 1000km" variable, it makes a lot of sense. I will continue to keep oil change intervals in the 6-7000km range. I do wonder why silicon is so high in most samples, even with reduced km intervals... BTW, I too have a spin-on filter adaptor, drain the oil through the plug in a modified oil pan, and collect the sample mid stream from an engine at its operating temperature. And Digory's EGR is effectively plugged with a stainless steel plate. I do like Blackstone Labs' personal comments. In Digory's first sample's report, they even commented on it being a Grandstyle and one of just 200. Someone there must be reading up on smart cars:)
  13. Attached is the oil sample report on Digory, my 06 Grandstyle Coupe, over an 18 month period and 76288 km travelledSOAP_sample_Digory.pdf.Because of my long commute, I've tried extending the time between oil changes, but based on the results reported over a year's time, returned to a more conservative interval period. Along the way, I removed my K&N air filter, and went back to the standard type, since silicon seemed to be high, but saw no significant changes with the switch.Do you think this numbers are representative of how most OM660 engines wear? I drive mostly highway miles, and our climate down in the South has very hot Summers and relatively mild Winters...WDYT?
  14. Hmmm, I thought it was "phishy" too. I emailed the seller, and this is what he responded:"Hello there,Thank you very much for your interest in my used Smart cdi Coupe Diesel .I live in England. The car is located in England, will be shipped in your country.You don't have to pay additional taxes for this and the shipping costs will be covered by me. The reason that I want to sell my car is that I just moved in married and I also found a good job here.It's very hard for me to drive this car here because they have other regulations and this week I found a family car here which I want to buy it, an England model, but first I have to sell my car. I tried to sell it to a local dealer but they told me they cannot accept it in England because the wheel is on the left side.The car has been tested before sale.The interior looks great and also the exterior. The vehicle is in good condition, has no technical damage at all, no scratches or dents, no hidden defects, no smoking. It's fun and robust to drive. Technical inspection and emissions testing is passed and stamped as well. It has title of ownership,cleared of any obligations or fees and comes with all the documents.The car is now located at the shipping company warehouse in England and they will deliver the car directly to your door.This is an extremely clean car inside and outside. This is a one owner vehicle that was locally driven and never raced.If you are looking for an extremely fast and dependable car (this is what you are looking for) that is fun to drive you won't want to miss this unique opportunity.If you need any further information please feel free to contact me. The price is $ 2,200 USSincerely,Ryan Gillian"And he did not answer a single question I specifically asked. I would bet my kingdom that if anyone were to follow up on this, there would be a "deposit", or a "fee". or whatever...Definitely a scam, IMHO.Buyers beware,
  15. Hey gang,Bugger, my cousin's 05 Pulse, has a RH wiper arm that overreaches past the glass edge when fully extended. The LH side works fine. I haven't looked at it yet and the only other information I have is that she had the RH arm removed until I can go see it. And of course, it is raining...Any suggestions on where to start my fault finding?TIA,
  16. Thx all,I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but will report as soon as I figure something out. I did find d whole wiper mechanism at d website of d largest smart car salvage yard in d world, for 79Euros, motor including, plus s/h. JIC. Cheers,Serge
  17. Hey guys,Do the rear hatch gas struts of a 451 fit the 450?Thx,
  18. Thanks, everyone! I ordered a pair from Cheers,
  19. Have any of you used this salvage yard in Germany for any parts? Curious,
  20. Hi Diemnzz,I just went to and found this:smart center of Coconut Creek4250 N. State Road 7Coconut Creek, FL 33073954.590.3100I dont know if there are any nearby independent shops that venture into repairing smart cars, but maybe the folks at , which are mostly in the USA, might have better information.Happy smart motoring, and btw, welcome to the Club,
  21. Welcome to the CsC club, neighbor! Check out this link for RnR of battery and CCA info: And browse through Kane's website for lots of DIY tips and instructions. I don't know about specific G&K ZAP car mods though. I've had an Optima Red Top battery for a couple of years and approximately 70k miles, and I've had no problems at all. Cheers,
  22. For Sale: EGR valve Bypass circuit and MB/smart OE jumper Cable package deal The package consists of:1. Photo of a CsC member’s completed board, top side;2. Photo of CsC member’s completed board, bottom side;3. Circuit diagram;4. Board with the electronics fastened but not connected, in case you'd liketo put on a different board;5. Spare board;6. Some spare resistors and tantalum capacitor;7. MB/smart OE EGR jumper cable, P/N Q001 9185 V001 000000. This can be used by itself as a filter for transit EGR faults that often result in the dreaded limp mode. Otherwise, the jumper's terminal ends can be used to create the bypass assembly. This item was used, by itself, for just under a year, without any EGR faults occurring. All it needs is soldering together, using the included diagram and pictures.$60 CAD, shipping and handling included to US and Canada.Cheers,
  23. I don't get it. What is the MB spec for CDI engine oil? I understand the recommendation is like Mobil1 0W40, but it is not a "specific diesel" rated oil! How come then? Wouldn't it be better for the engine to use something like Mobil1 5W40 Turbodiesel/ formula? Mobil1 is pretty common where I live and both specs cost the same. My first oil change is coming up and I have both types oil available. I use the 0W40 on the C280 and 5W40 on the 300CDT. It rarely gets below freezing temps in Mississippi, so the added fluidity of the 0 weight oil is not really needed here, I think... WDYT, smart sages?
  24. Thx guys!I went ahead and ordered the whole hardware kit for the front shocks, front and rear shocks and springs, and front wheel bearings. The other suspension and steering appear to be ok for now, based on an on-lift inspection. Our roads and weather down here arent as rough on those components, I guess.Now, I "just" have to make time to get this done soon!Take care,
  25. Does it have ac? Auto tranny or manual? Interior pics? Thx!