zrwon

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About zrwon

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    EDMONTON ALBERTA

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  1. Is 2005 same alternator as 2006? I’m surprised to see this available from the US since they never sold the diesel in the US, I had pay way more than that just to get mine rebuilt and it took forever to get parts for the rebuilt. I’m almost tempted to buy one as spare since it’s the only part that has failed me since I bought the car New in 2007.
  2. And by the way, my first oil change, 10 years ago, I dumped the pan and put one with a drain plug and I'm glad I did.
  3. I drove my car almost 6 months with a bad alternator because I was trying to find a cheap one, I was charging the battery every third day and I eventually sent it for rebuilt because at the time I never found a cheap one. sorry I can't help you much except find a way to test it before replacing it because they are expensive. I'm assuming you already know that the alternator doesn't kick in right away when you start the car, it takes a few seconds maybe 10 seconds or so and that is normal. I used to be able to ear it when it kicked in before the rebuilt but now it's not as noticeable but I do see the cluster getting a lot brighter once it starts charging. Make sure you give it time when you are testing for power, give it a good minute because if you test as soon as you start the engine you will not have power.
  4. What I meant by poor fuel quality is not about dirt in the fuel, I had a bad fuel tank that gave me wrong reading on the fuel gauge that required fuel conditioner to eventually resolve that problem. My point here is to say that poor fuel might not ignite as well as good fuel and why I experienced the hard start a few years ago. Poor fuel can keep your car from starting.
  5. I find our little cars to be very sensitive to fuel quality
  6. Mine used to do that too intermittently about 4-5 years ago and I never touched it but I haven't worked for 3 years and don't fuel where I used to, so I'm now wondering if it might be fuel quality related, I also moved since and I haven't fuel at Shell since I moved and I know I was getting 75-100 km less on that Shell fuel, now I'm wondering if older fuel could be everyone's problem???
  7. If the grommet is rubber which I think it is, avoid WD40, it will Melt the rubber and glue the new light in, just use dish soap and water like they use on mounting tires.
  8. I did but had already ordered, I received them 3 days ago and installed them last night, it was easier than I thought it would be, I removed the nuts, pushed the bolts and cut them with my hacksaw, took 2 minutes to cut, very easy with a good blade, I didn't remove anything else but the ball joint and the wheel of course.
  9. For a Smart it seems like parts in Europe are very cheap and available anywhere, not like here where we need to go to dealer just for something as simple as an oil to air filter. Here we have Part Source and Canadian Tire but they don't list anything for Smart except wipers, and NAPA ask more than dealers to retail customers now, unless you have a very busy account with them, you get no deals. Everything else is eBay or the like.
  10. My problem is not cost, it's availability, I wish I could find them locally and ordering they want $40 to $65 for shipping on one only. That's why when I saw $56 pair free shipping I bought it.
  11. $57.12 CDN a pair including shipping I haven't read about anyone replacing 4 yet, I'm assuming the other one last much longer?
  12. Dealer want $160 for ball joint kits and are back order from Germany. Tried Part Source and they have no listing. Will have to order online and wait again.
  13. They usually end up in a news paper encouraging idiots to do the same, they tried to do this to mine once but there was a car beside it, so they put two wheels on the curb, my car was only a few weeks old at the time and the rear valence was bent
  14. After reading many posts on ball joints removal, you all agreed on installing the bolts backwards to make it easier next time, so I went and looked at my car and was wondering why nobody ever tried to remove the nut, push the bolt out till it hits the rotor, then cut the bolt head off and push it back inward and remove it without the head? I tried my grinder and hacksaw and both fit in that space without touching the rotor, those who removed these bolts in the past, do you think it might be possible to do it that way? There is room to hold the bolt head with vise-grip to keep it from turning, and it looks like a 5 minute job to cut that bolt head off. Any comment?
  15. That's what I thought, basically it's the same part. Now I have another question, after reading the posts on ball joints removal, you all agreed on installing the bolts backwards to make it easier next time, so I went and looked at it and was wondering why nobody ever tried to remove the nut, push the bolt out till it hits the rotor, then cut the bolt head off and push it back inward and remove it without the head? I tried my grinder and hacksaw and both fit in that space without touching the rotor, those who removed these bolts in the past, do you think that is possible to do it that way? There is room to hold the bolt head with vise-grip to keep it from turning, and it looks like a 5 minute job to cut that bolt head off. Any comment?