MightyMouseTech

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Posts posted by MightyMouseTech


  1. Tolsen: I'm trying to locate your vibration frequency thread - can't seem to find it! But I don't think its tightness...we'll find out when my water pump shows up on Tuesday!Bil: Water pump is not weeping - its leaking quite a bit, and there was the resistance to turning the shaft was abnormally high

    Unfortunately the bearing is toast. Time for a new pump. I have never seen any coolant come out of the weeping hole on a pump that was still good. I have replaced 100's of water pumps, any that had signs of coolant coming out of them had worn bearings.

  2. Take it for a blast on the Nordschleife, see if you can break 10 minutes.......also, take the first aid kit, warning triangle and front plate off the car right before returning it, because those things will be otherwise recovered by BMW before they deliver the car to you at home.

    Thought about it, but don't want to track a brand new engine.....quite yet. :)Will be visiting these guys: http://www.rent4ring.de/en/

  3. The road costs about 30 Euros (probably a bit more now) but you get a nice souvenir sticker for the trouble. The Brenner Autobahn, Tauern Autobahn and Felbertauern all give you a window sticker for the car, kind of a nice memento. No such thing is offered for the Stelvio.

    Just looked it up. Looks like it is 32 Euro now. :) Looks beautiful!!!!!!

    And Stelvio, well, how do you not have fun with a car with 360 hp!!

    Posted Image

    Anybody else have any recommendations?

    We will be landing in Munich, spending several days there, picking up the new car on Tuesday (and touring the BMW factory and the museum at the Welt) Next day head to Vienna for several days, then Northern Italy for several more, then the south coast of France for several, dropping off the car in Nice, then finishing up in Paris before we head home. The car will then meet us back home 4-6 weeks later.


  4. Chris,It's sad to see a favourite 'anything' leave. What have you replaced Moby with?I hope you will continue to drop in from time to time and offer some of your pearls of wisdom to the newbies (and some of not-so-new bies).Please don't be a stranger. :faint:

    Thanks, I am sure I will be around from time to time.We are replacing the smart and our Civic with a new BMW 135i (pretty much the exact opposite of the smart, other than small, fun and impressive engineering) we pick it up in Germany (doing a European Delivery for our Honeymoon) on June 4th. We moved into a condo so we are going down to one car and the Vespa.

  5. Re dealer clutch replacements, were the clutches actually failing, or was the fork holed? When my fork showed signs of getting a penetration, I was offered a clutch replacement, which of course included a new fork, for $3,000.A $2 acorn nut solved the problem.Same as all those early $1,200 turbo replacements, where a $6 intake seal -- or just tightening the hose clamps! -- may well have fixed the "leaky turbo" complaint. Dealerships must hate this forum!Bil :sun:

    No, it is the clutches wearing out. There was a problem with the clutch disks sticking on the splines of the output shaft on the tranny. Caused premature clutch wear. There is a bulletin about this, and when installing the new clutch there is now a special grease that must be placed on the splines to prevent it from happening again.$3000 for a clutch??!? WTF? The flat rate time for the job is only 5.5 hrs, and it is less than a grand for a new clutch assembly, which includes the flywheel. Should be around $1500 MAX.

  6. That's very sad... How long did you own Moby for?

    Bought him new. Was picked up the day before Canada Day in 2007. Was actually the last 450 smart that Ogilvie Motors sold.Very sad day. My wife was crying.Sold him to a very good friend of mine, so I will still see him once in a while. Hopefully he remains my friend after this... :)

  7. What do you mean about Tesla not building??? All I found was a reference to Tesla having issues in Texas, because Texas doesn't want to allow manufacturers to sell direct to a customer.

    Oh CRAP! Ignore my previous comment. I got Fisker and Tesla mixed up. It is Fisker that just layed off 75% of their workforce, they probably won't be around much longer. Tesla seems to be taking off. May be time to reply to the job offer I got from Tesla to be a tech for them. :)

  8. Am I the only K&N user who isn't pissed off at Tolson!? I for one would like to see his new test results.

    No, you are not the only one. I just can't be bothered to reply.... I usually just ignore most of Tolsen's posts.An air filter is not going to make a difference in performance. Best you can do is to always have a clean filter. This is why I have 2 K&N, keep a clean one ready to go at all times, usually swap it every 5000 km. Less waste for the environment.

  9. First they said it could be related to the alarm (installed there); now they've been washing the car to see if there's any water ingress...

    Is this an OEM or aftermarket alarm? If aftermarket, I would say with 90% certainty that is the culprit.Step 1 in diagnosing weird electrical issues like this is to look for, find and remove all aftermarket electronics. Most of the time that solves the issue.

  10. Cool! I'll give it a try at next fill up and see how it does/feels. I do remember I used to use the Sunoco on Rideau street in Sandy Hill. Pity it is gone. It was very convenient location for me (ByWard market).

    Is it still not there, just a PetroCan now?And about refineries...The base fuel does not really matter that much. It is the additive package that makes the biggest difference between them. So, different brands will be different.It is like saying all cakes are the same because they are all made with flour.

  11. My limited experience (maybe 7 fill ups since I bought my 451?)Shell 91 - 7.25 to 7.36 l/100km (usually the later)Esso top grade (whatever that is in Ottawa) 7.65 l/100km (but used it only once)I don't think we can get better than 91 around these parts, or I would try it.

    Petrocan sells 94, that is what I use in my Civic now after the "tune". This is since they bought all the Sunoco's in Ontario. So it is probably just Sunoco 94.

  12. I'd totally argue that, emissions are emissions - show them the code with a Scangauge (or get their equipment to show that it is a benign code!). How stupid.-Iain

    It is because the new etest procedure is just reading what the On Board Diagnostics is telling it. This is a lot more accurate and much harder to get a fake test done. There are many readiness codes that the computer stores after performing various self diagnostic tests. There are tests for the O2 sensors, O2 sensor heaters, EGR tests, EVAP system tests, catalytic converter tests, misfire tests etc etc etc etc. The estest is confirming with the ECU that these tests have been completed and passed. If you reset the PCM, these readiness codes are also reset. It usually takes several hundred km over several drive cycles from engine cold to perform all the tests.A bad glow plug will absolutely increase the emissions.

  13. Am I missing something, I was under the impression that only 2008 and newer diesels had to be OBD compliant, older cars would still have the visual smoke test in Ontario testing. The smart is NOT OBD compliant as witnessed with most scan tools etc. Are they testing your car incorrectly? There is NOTHING in the smart to have readiness codes anyways it is a useless test! (yes there is emission controls to some extent but the way it monitors them is very out of date vs the 2008+ diesel with multiple temp and oxygen sensors). Somebody please fill me in, this is very important info as I do not want ANYONE other then the dealer (which does not do testing) plugging into my car and causing more odometer jumps and ABS/ESP problems!

    Nope. the newer OBD plug test is for all vehicles 1996 and newer. Had my 2006 tested, passed with a remap and an EGR emulator.

  14. The thicker the oil the better for old diesels, meaning a 15w40 or 20w50, or alternatively use a treatment like Lucas oil additive to thicken it up. It really really makes a difference on worn out engines have lots of experience with super high kms diesels running it (gas engines too). It also helps prolong lifter life it seems/quiets start ups. I stay far away from thin oils like 0w30 they burn way too easily. All synthetics flow well at cold temps, the differences are small (say -30 for a thick oil vs -50 for a 0 weight). I think Amsoil offers the correct rating through out their product range, it is not easy finding a thicker oil with current MB standards. I find our Mercedes R class CDI has siginificant more engine noise (ticking) on 5w30 vs 5w40 (mb229.51) and it is hard to find 5w40 with that spec in Ottawa. I run the smart with 5w40 exclusively for now, I will be out soon though and searching for a heavier option if possible as I only summer drive it. But yes a thick oil really can make a big difference on worn out engines to keep it cleaner.I have also had awesome results with Seafoam oil treatment, smells like pure brake cleaner in a can that you pour into the crankcase and drive, really really helped the fuel economy of our R class immediate results (150k kms and dealer serviced before me). Whatever it does it helps restore the engine, possible cleaning up sludged cylinder walls or ???)

    My smart always gets 5W40 as well. I really like Motul products, and run Motul 5W40 (8100 X-Cess) that I buy by the case from Amazon.com. It is a true, full synthetic, most are not anymore. Just have it shipped to Ogdensburg and go down and pick it up.http://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-4PK-X-c...motul+5w40+8100

  15. It is also a good idea to match the front and rear tires. So you really should only look at tires that will come in the 175/55/15 front size. Looks like you will be limited to the Vredesteins?!?!? Which is OK, they are a pretty good tire. Selling them with my car, they were my intermediate tires.I tried the larger rear tire diameter on my own car. Really hurts acceleration from the increase in gearing. Also seems to be much harder on the clutch.