Speedie

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About Speedie

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    Former Chief cook and bottle washer

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    Victoria
  1. Well round about 100k or so you may need to repair your lower ball joints - the primary indicator of this is uneven tire wear (inside edge wears quicker), funny noises and things seeming a bit loose when going over bumps. It took me about 3 hours to do this real leisurely, including painting and putting a heater out etc. (it was cool out today - about 3 C). Difficulty - Moderate - if only because there is a lot of tools involved and it is a tad critical to get everything right! So you will need a bunch of tools - Jack Vehicle supports wheel chocks Breaker bar Ratchet Extension bars 15mm socket (wheels) 13 mm wrench/socket (caliper) 18mm wrench (ball joint shaft nut) 18 mm socket (ball joint shaft nut) Adjustable wrench (ball joint shaft nut) 18 External Torx (caliper bracket) 16 External Torx (hub retaining bolt) 30 Torx (only if you remove the rotor) 50 Torx (ball joint cross bolts) 16mm wrench/socket (ball joint cross bolt nuts) Pickle fork Suspension tool flat screw drivers (to pry out dust cap) Large pry bars - need something at least 3 feet long Big Hammer (pickle fork) Mechanics wire (hold up brake caliper) Torque wrench - N/M - up to 120 N/M and down to 40 NM Torque Specs Wheel Nuts - 110 N/M Hub retainer - 120 N/M Ball joint shaft - 40 N/M Ball joint cross bolts - 46 N/M Others - Tight as you can get 'em Chock the rear wheels Jack the car up (loosen the wheel bolts first) Support the car Take the wheel off the car (if you are lost at this point - please quit and get a mechanic to fix this for you) Loosen the brake caliper bolt 15mm (you might get the caliper bracket off the rotor but getting everything back on might be a challenge) Take out the brake pads and retract (push in) the caliper piston just a bit Remove the the brake caliper bracket - two external Torx - 18 - you may need an extension for the upper one - wire the bracket up out of the way so the brake hose is not getting stretched Note - I took the rotor off on one side - not really necessary - but if you insist - remove the 30 Torx countesunk screw from the rotor Remove the dust cap by prying out by using a small hammer and wedging a screw driver between the dust cap and hub - they are in there tight and the flange is long Remove the hub retaining bolt - it is in there tight and the heads on E-Torx don't put up with much abuse so be sure to use a long breaker bar and a good socket Place a tray with clean paper under the hub as a precaution - apparently sometimes the bearings will come apart and you have to stuff the little balls back in - so you need to find them all - the tray is just a precaution against Murphy If the hub and brake disc assembly have become fused together with corrosion removal of the T30 set screw may not be possible and at this point one alternative is to remove them together. The hub is a pretty good fit on the shaft - pry gently if you have to but don't beat on it with a hammer or bad things will happen - mind the dust shield when prying The hub will come off suddenly - be ready for that (Edit; leave the bolt in place threaded in about 4 turns to prevent the hub from coming right off suddenly depositing you on your backside with the hub heading toward your teeth.) Once the hub is off you will see the dust shield - remove that too The cross bolts for the ball joint are now visible and access to the ball joint shaft nut is easier too! Loosen the cross bolts using a T50 Torx and a 16mm wrench or socket Leave the cross bolts in Remove the 18mm ball joint shaft nut - you may need to hold the shaft using the small hex head on it while loosening the nut Insert the pickle fork from the front - picking up the flange on the bottom of upright piece - whack with a big hammer until the ball joint shaft come out of the lower control arm - it will do so dramatically (note if you are going to reuse the ball joint you may want to use a puller as the pickle fork can be hard on the protective boot on the ball joint) Insert a long pry into the lower control arm such that you can apply force downwards so that you can push the cross bolts out Whack the ball joint shaft upwards so the the entire ball joint moves up in the upright so you can gain clearence to seperate the upright from the control arm (sorry no pictures as it was getting down and dirty at this point) Pry the lower control arm down until the end of the ball joint shaft comes clear - at this point you can pull the upright slightly outwards Pry the ball joint out of the upright until it comes out You now are finished the disassembly Reassembly - Note - the Ball joint bolts, nuts, and the hub retainer bolt use a micro-encapsulated thread locker. This means two things - once you start reassembly you have about 5 minutes to torque everything, secondly you cannot reuse or remove and put things back together once the threads are done up. So in other words - use the fasterners that are supplied with the kit. Assembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly but here are some pointers Stuff the new ball joint back up into the upright as far as you can - don't bang on the shaft! Pry the control arm down and get the ball joint shaft pointed down the hole Some light tapping of the control arm while wiggling the pry may be needed to get it to line up Once the shaft is throught the hole - finger tighten the nut onto it to keep it from popping back out Have your cross bolt handy Pry down on the control arm again and with the other hand pry down on the ball joint so that it slides into the correct position, if you can get one of the cross holes lined up shove a bolt through then pry/wiggle until the other lines up Once the ball joint is in position tighten the cross bolts and torque - note that 46 N/M is not a lot of force - you don't need to really wrench on these fastners Tighten the ball joint shaft nut - it is even less at 40 N/M - here again it is held in place by friction and the thread locking compound so don't go stupid on it with the tightening Clean the area of the dust shield - it tends to collect some crap behind it - and wipe any collected dirt off the stub shaft for the hub - a light coat of grease on the stub shaft helps in reassembly as well Put the dust shield on Put the hub back on - it is stubborn so start it as straight as you can -apply gentle heat to the hub from a hairdryer for 10 minutes first then apply antiseize to the spindle....it should slip right on- then using the old hub bolt - place in the hole and tap on the end of the bolt, the nice big washer helps drive the hub on straight - don't drive it on to hard near the end or you can hurt the threads on the stub shaft Put the new hub retainer bolt in and tighten to bring the hub into the correct possition, Torque to 120 N/M - this is a lot of force so make sure you use a torque wrench set to the right amount Reassemble the brakes etc. in the same way you took them apart - the two caliper backing bracket bolts can be a bit tricky to start - I find the bottom one is easist to get in first. Put the wheels back on and torque the nuts to 110 N/M Enjoy a new wiggle free front end! Contributed by: Speedie
  2. On the 2006 450 the block heater is attached to the engine - then a cable attaches to feed to the front of the car. Well a couple not so great things - one the cable hangs pretty low so things tend to jump up and grab it - second the connection to the block heater is just a friction fit with an o-ring to seal it - which is soft plastic and grinds away very effectively on pavement. One fine day - I happened to have the car parked on the street - our entrance is below street level - in bopping up the stairs I noticed - "Gee - what the hell is hanging under the car? I thought that racoon had ducked!" - turns out that the connector and the block heater had parted ways - fortunately the separation was short term and I was able to get them into counselling quick enough that the emotional scars were minimal. To help keep their relationship together I realized they needed some form of support - so the both of them could function the way they should. To that end I figured they needed something to cement their union - ah ha - they needed a shrink! The next best thing to duct tape - heat shrink tubing! You need about 3" of 3/4 inch (75 mm of 20 mm - just for Duck ) heat shrink and a source of heat - disconnect the two - slip it over the connector - re-couple and move the shrink into position - heat the mess up and ta-da - no more of the connector becoming forelorn and hitting the street. Here is a picture of the couple - happily together! Seriously though - if you have a block heater - do this mod buy a new connector cable - $.50 of shrink tubing or $$$$ - your call - also check the zip ties to make sure the cable is not sticking down too low - common issue - probably got loose on the same thing that cracked my intercooler scoop. Credits: Speedie
  3. Maybe 'cause you could also direct people to sites other than YouTube by embedding links..... It would be nice to allow all attachments and links but there are folks out there that have other malicious intents.Cheers,Cameronps. we are also on a version of the software that barely pre-dates YouTube - we are working on that.
  4. I have the install and user guide for the MDC cruise control - PM if you figure that would help.The reason they didn't introduce the factory cruise here was something to do with the do not exceed this speed setting or something (i.e. speed goverened to a user set point).Cheers,Cameron
  5. You can thank tougher enviromental laws for some of the rust - they don't use as much plating (cadium, phosphate, zinc etc.) on components now as it does nasties to the environment - same with paint - some of it is water based coatings which don't (IMHO) stand up as good as old fashioned enamels and such.There are some pretty good spray on waxy oil products around - they use this on the car from the factory - a squirt here and there helps - plus rust is a lot to do with the environment - southern Ontario and the East Coast seem to really get clobbered.Cheers,Cameron
  6. That will be in the not too distance future - right now we have to make sure the site is okay and no left overs from our less than pleasant visitor - I have a handle on how they did it so I have been able to check up on things - so far so good.In fairness - the address used was from Kazahstan but the hacker probably was just using it as a proxy - I would guess either Europe or another country - 286 computers that they use in Kazahstan are just not up to a lot of hacking activity.The new software is not expensive - but will save us a world of grief.Cheers,Cameron
  7. Mine showed up today - haven't had any problems since the driver side was replaced but then TPM has been cleaning and lubing them - me as well.Cheers,Cameron
  8. Joint effort - we got things going again - Awesys lived up to his tag! We think we have a handle on it all and are taking steps to get better security happening.Cheer,Cameron
  9. Well since CsC has gone back to a semi-anarchy based self-administered - seperate but equal and all that stuff mode - and since I am not dealing with a world of grief in my personal life now - I will see what I can do for setting up something.Cheers,Cameron
  10. Okay - we think we have things back to normal - joint effort - big shout out to Awesys for all the help - we got hacked - but we have put things back in order and are watching for repeat attempts - won't get into what we are doing in the background.We hope to have an updated version of the IPB in place before too long - we have to do a bit of due dilegence to make sure we don't get into any gottcha's.If you spot any issues (real ones - not just 'cuz your senses are enhanced at the moment) let us know. I am also doing some long overdue housekeeping with the site - should make it perform better.Cheers,Cameron
  11. You will have to report all repairs to Customs and pay tax (GST and PST) - as well if the repairs are substantial (i.e. convert a salvage vehicle to one that is road worthy) you may find the situation a bit different as this is subject to tariffs and duties. Check with the border crossing where you would be bringing the car back through - they are usually pretty helpful.Cheers,Cameron
  12. I have a source of someone (no not me) parting out a 2005 450 pure coupe - car has a fried motor (seems to be happening a bit more now) - if you are interested shoot me a PM and I will arrange things (no I am not taking a cut - just helping people deal with circumstances)Over all the car looks well cared for so if you need some parts let me know - the current owner may want to retain the Tridion and the panels.Cheers,CameronOkay - they now have 2 cars they are parting out - as above and a cabrio - cabrio has no panels, no driveline, and no top - rest of the car is in good shape - it is a passion model. Interior is in nice shape too.Contact Sean at 1.250.385.1408 - Serious inquires only and realistic price expectations only!
  13. Did rear wheel bearings - one has been noisy for about 20k - the car is around 127k- the instructions on Evil's site are good for the gist but a few pointers (sorrry no photos - in a hurry) - as always this was a driveway job - no hoist - just a floor jack, wheel chocks, and simple hand toolsGet the correct 21mm 12point socket - Sears sells them (not here thought) as does KMS toolsThe axle bolt is in there really tight - I found that putting the car in gear (key on) and the park brake really tight helped (do the bolt before you remove the drums) Even then you have to use some light taps on the handle of the breaker barOnce you back the axle bolt out - give it a light tap on the end - this will loosen the splined shaft in the wheel bearingI took just the one bolt out on the suspension cross beam to the dion tube - it gives you room to work but is not really needed to get the drive shaft loose enough - you really don't have to get the drive shaft out - just out of the bearing enough that you can get to the four bolts holding it inThe 4 bearing retainer bolts are fairly tight as well but come out with just a breaker bar - you have to lift the drive shaft around to get the socket to the bolt - a selection of extensions for the socket is very helpful - the one front one at the top is easier from the side of the car - the other ones Now the fun bit - on the one side the bearing centering ring was rusted into the backing plate - really tight - no amount of hammering would have worked - especially with how floppy everything gets once the 4 bolts are out. There is a simple trick I came up with - first put the 4 retaining bolts back in loosely - get a bolt that is smaller than the lug bolt hole diameter and about 3" long - then stick it through the lug hole - once it is through thread a nut onto it - tighten it all up until the end of the bolt is against the backing plate - make sure the bolt is straight in so you don't damage the threads on the lug hole - tighten the bolt using a wrench on the nut and the bolt - this will nicely push the backing plate off - back the bolt off and turn the bearing so the bolt is now on the other side (there is room) repeat and then take the 4 bolts out. This was super easy, didn't involve cussing, large hammers or damaged car parts. Stick one of the 4 bolts through from the front to make sure the brake line is not carrying the weightClean every thing off with brake cleaner When reassembling (I painted the bearings as the originals rusted a bit) put grease in the splines of the bearing and a light coat of never seize on the outside of the centering boss on the bearing (so next time it is easier) Pay attention to the torque settings - some are fairly high so yes you need some ommph - and use a torque wrench - no one is that accurate at guessingWhen putting the splined shaft back in it should move really easy - you should be able to practically finger tighten the bolt to pull it back in - if not check the alignment and also make sure that the socket you used on the 4 bolts didn't come off the extension (don't ask - it had me puzzled for a bit). Check the hub in neutral - it should turn over easilyThe torque spec on the wheel bolt is torque to 30nm (basically tight) then an additional 90 degrees rotation - this can be a challenge as the axle wants to turn so do the old car on and in drive routine to generate a bit more resistanceThe first side took me a couple of hours (1/2 hour for head scratching on the stuck hub) the second side a lot less. Next up repairs to NuBlu's engine Cheers,Cameron
  14. So I am off to the great white north for work - got a job in Ft. McMurray - chances are I will be real hit or miss for events but if I am on rotation out I will try to get something going. Cheers,Cameron
  15. Please post the link you are coming from (i.e. the orginal post that had the link) so I can recreate the issue - saves about an hour's work of trying to find the missing link.CHeers,Cameron