cadillacman

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About cadillacman

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    MrThing

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    Toronto, On
  1. I should have maybe emphasized my dirge was merely a debugging of alternator issues regarding the voltage test, not the amps It indeed could not be charging ... but why ... could save a lot o $$$
  2. You will be measuring the system voltage Not the output of the alternator step 1 1 ~ charge the battery well, or clamp in a spare booster battery 2 ~ separate the alternator wire from the + terminal of the battery 3 ~ start car - measure voltage from alternator wire of + terminal to GND terminal Now you will see what the alternator is willing to give, albeit with no load BUT this is only a no-load test, it may still give greater than 12v, leaving you wondering. Alternator receives DCv from the SAM/ECU via the input wires on the alternator. The SAM/ECU or an internal voltage regulator will adjust the DCv to achieve desired AC output voltage of the alternator This DCv is the exciter voltage ... of the rotating electromagnets on the rotor. The electromagnets induce an ACv in the fixed stationary coils of the alternator. The alternator uses diodes to convert the pos and the neg ACv outputs from those coils into DCv that the battery and system needs. 4 things can go wrong 1 ~ bad diodes can reduce, or counteract the ultimate DCv outputs 2 ~ the SAM/ECU or voltage regulator can supply insufficient exciter voltage to the rotating coils 3 ~ the brushes on the rotor may have bad contact, thus not providing good DCv to the electromagnets 4 ~ bad connection to the alternator input plug or at the other end By isolating the battery in step 1, you can determine that the alternator is giving sufficient charging voltage or not. If the alternator will provide greater than 12v while isolated, then the culprit is likely diodes, which cannot keep the output DCv up while load is on ? (assuming that the battery is OK) Flickering lights ? If NOT, then you are at a second stage of analysis, as per whether it is the exciter voltage, or the diodes, or the brushes. If it was a rebuilt/new alternator, then it is most likely not the diodes, or the brushes, or voltage regulator, as the unit would have been tested ( trust issue here ). I say NEW, because some people replace the alternator and still have the problem , leaving the exciter voltage as a culprit - SAM/ECU. This could be caused by a bad connection or GND Or I could be wrong
  3. I'd really like to have a jug of this for my workshop
  4. both the same standard .. CounterClockwise removal
  5. You should provide a picture of this, as your ability to describe mechanical actualities is rather wanting. ( OUCH ) Yup..., and that will affect the responses you get, and that will lead you to go down paths that do not need to waste your time on. Dip your finger in it and smell it. If it smells like the engine oil dipstick, then VOILA ! STOP wasting your time/efforts. There is none that will ever show anything about the tranny fill/empty plugs, as those are NOT 'purchaser' maintenance items. Remember, this is a manual transmission, and has NO dipstick. Your only hope is google searches that will often lead you to topics here at CSC or to Evilution in the UK The orig fluid was likely black, but anybody that has replaced it usually uses red ATF fluid. Do not be fooled into thinking that it is really an automatic because you would put Automatic Transmission Fluid into it. It is used because of its lubrication and cold weather viscosity virtues. Since it is a manual, it cannot 'slip'. You could drain the tranny oil and it would still work as normal. Not for long mind you, but it would not 'slip' On the other hand ... your clutch could slip, but that is another big issue. Most likely is electrical wiring issues. Are you watching the 'gear indicator' on the dash while you are trying this ? Clues there are VERY meaningful. Welcome to the club .... BUT ... UPDATE your location in your profile, so we know where you are !!! Where did you buy this car, how did you get it home ? Was he/she/it a member on the CSC site ? How long have you had it ? You are going to get you hands dirty, owning this car. You are going to get used to getting under it to fix it. OR, you are going to get rid of it.
  6. When the 'sales' people think that they can convince the 'stoopit' public that the words mean what they want to hear, then it's a 'GO', yes ? Ford has a much larger buyer base and has found that that the 're-invention' of the language did not go over so well. The Focus and Fiesta models are currently the subject of US class-action lawsuits over their 'automatic' transmissions. Some of the allegations (true) are regards mechanical failure, but others are regards (true) expected operational norms. Where are the media in all of this ? If it has a clutch, it's a manual ! Automotive journalism is in a really sad state. Truth does not always equal $$$ returns , sad, but true.
  7. I assume you mean the engine mount point ? Sorry, I forget that people don't have my setup. I Have no EGR assembly, nor the EGR mount bracket, nor the EGR cooler. I also likely did this when I was installing the GT Intake system, and would have had the muffler and the x-frame off. Loads of space. I can see reluctance on most peoples part to 'just do this'.
  8. see this and this I noted that all the current doc's I can find refer to the 451, even tho they 'say' 450 And the CSC link to the original instructions does not werk. Damn, I usually keep that sort of thing Note the 'better' package list on this link And also the last paragraph They did indicate on that package list that the control arm is indeed an original smart item. Believe them ? or not ? If the MB dealer in Barrie is at all willing to help sort out this mess, then they might be willing to supply the TAN and install it for you.
  9. another thought ... Did you disturb the SAM unit ... remove any plugs ? The N11-3 looses appropriate grip on a lot of it's pins, needs frequent re-seating The N11-8 and N11-9 are really subject to corrosion and loss of contact
  10. yes, mine is an MDC ... was not any problem So the SmartMadness one is an MDC as well ? Yes, did a search ... it is So MikeP ... where are you in Ontario edit : but the originals sold way back then, did not have that 'cute' little box down by the accelerator, it was just a naked board, so yes, there are possibly differences
  11. the low pressure fuel pump starts, and eventually stops because the engine did not start that is all good, but all the rest of the no-lights is not good Have you tried re-seating the accelerator plugs, and checked the connections there for continuity. This is an old car, and that plug that has not likely seen any exercise in it's life, it could easily have lost grip on a connector or 2
  12. I now have +60k km's on my Cherry Turbo It was 50% of the cost of an OEM replacement So, yes, not in the $$$ league of chinese replacements, but it lasts ( knocks on wood )
  13. I'd like to see a winter competition with the Canadian version
  14. I agree ... well done unit Did u notice the PA below the winch !? This guy thought it out well but ... can we hope that there is NO gun rack ??
  15. ran across this .... no license-plates, but I'd assume it's American