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About frankie5string

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
  1. This is not a documented procedure. There's really no point to calling around and asking about this. Best you can do is take it in and ask them in person to investigate the possibility while they have your car. MB Canada is the group that ultimately decides to cover the work done by the dealership/repair-shop. There is no guarantee MB Canada will come back with goodwill repair.Also, be prepared to surrender your car for a few days... Mine's on day three...
  2. Really ? Change the rear brakes with the front? That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. The front brakes do nearly all the slowing work. Rear breaks are mainly there to hold the vehicle once stopped. You can burn up rear drum brakes really easily if you fiddle with them so they're doing more work.That said, I know of one wise-a$$ who thought he'd "tweak" the rear drum brakes to increase their usage... His car would jerk to a stop every time he used the brakes because the drums were grabbing and latching. Not to mention he eventually delaminated the rear brake pads and required replacement... at 30000k... ;-)
  3. Well, my car is in being looked at for the first AC fix since the warranty expired (been repaired every year prior at same dealership) and they're charging me $235 just to assess the situation. The repair boss put a note on the work order that some additional analysis and procedure had to be done and that I'd be contacted today with a solution.If I just do quick math on all the warranty work they did on the AC over the 6 years I've owned it, it has cost MB nearly the price of the car to keep the AC running. That's ironic, isn't it?
  4. So what ended up happening with this bogus recall? I am taking my in for an aircon service tomorrow morning - I booked my appointment two weeks before the one year warranty on the service from 2010 expired so they should do it for nothing... As far as I know each Aircon refil and repair is warranty'ed for a year.
  5. Every time I've brought it in, it's either been seal replacement or hose replacement. It can fracture and leak most easily by the input. By the way there is a difference post 2006 AC SW update between max and normal. In normal mode you'll find the engine power vollies up and down much more (due to the compressor kicking in and out) whereas at MAX it seems to stay on consistently.Thornhill MB didn't seem to have any evidence that a flex-hose solution was forthcoming. He was going to look into the possibility of post-warranty repair... I highly doubt it'll be a goodwill or environmental repair though.
  6. Yay, in again it goes... to have its aircon fixed again along with a B service... I'm curious though...wouldn't switching to flexible AC piping solve all this? Why does MB insist on rigid copper pipe going to from the exchanger to the pump?
  7. Looks like even though last year I had a number of lines replaced on my AC (and was assured it was fixed for good) earlier this week I tested it and it indeed is not working. However, unlike times in the past, this time the compressor still appears to be engaging... So back in it goes... I also noticed that the huge plastic device covering the entire bottom of the car has begun to hang down near the rear driver-side tire... Looks like a stone hit it and sheared off one of its clamps... Oh well... I guess it could be a whole lot worse - I haven't had any major issues with the smart... but boy taking it in to get "repaired" every spring (often when doing my Winter/Summer tire change) is a bit of a folly to say the least.
  8. I never really liked those big flat pizza-pan hubcaps on the steelies... Kinda like women with granny-pantsI really like the little black triangle caps though - snazzy on the steelies for winter. - More like a wheel thong... lol! TGIF!
  9. As the fan/lights adjust do you hear a soft tick coming from the dashboard? I experience the same thing and figured out what it was. It's the fan on the intercooler kicking in. Next time you have a yen, start the engine with the "hood" off the engine, then get out and run around back... within a few seconds (usually about 10 or so for me) you'll see that fan begin to spin - it seems like it's fairly high-torque... and the electrical system for the smart lets you see every little sag any electrical device will produce. Especially if you stare at the Odo/Gear number display.Cheers!
  10. Are you running your winter tires at the proper PSI? I found on the smart it's really bad to run them low... Those tires have to be inflated AT LEAST up to the proper door-number PSI ... If not a little bit higher to maximize their performance in snow...
  11. Yup it's normal. If you lightly tap the acc pedal the clutch gently engages as to get the car moving. If you are light on the pedal, the car expects that you want to speed up gradually. The vibrations you're feeling are coming from the friction the clutch is making until the engine and wheels are moving at the same speed - at which point they lock together and the vibration stops.If you hammer the acc pedal, the clutch rapidly connects and establishes more friction faster, so it doesn't have to rub for as long while the computer waits for the wheels to match the engine speed...The same thing will happen on any clutch-based car - but the Smart, being a dry clutch, and having very little between you and the drive-train really lets you feel it working...
  12. This is a big nono... In addition to it not helping the clutch, it can get you into an accident if you suddenly have to accelerate... You wont be able to shift back into gear fast enough because the computer will actually wait while the engine rev-matches the wheel speed ...It's worth knowing that the clutch and transmission are actually rated for double the horsepower and torque the engine can provide - so they're operating far below their spec... Also the engine is designed to lock to the wheels more or less down to about 800rpm where it will pop the clutch open to release the load... The biggest "Wear and tear" on the clutch is getting the car moving... that heavy friction required to get the car going is the most difficult job the clutch has... moving from gear to gear while moving is nearly effortless if the engine is rev-matching, as there's no "slipping" and it's simply a "Lock-Unlock-Lock" function.Also, the clutch position is actually governed by the speed you're going at plus what you're doing to the gas pedal. If you're in a cold climate you can actually hear the clutch move in and out at first when you pull away... put foot on the gas and let it lock... then take your foot off, then on again, then off... you'll hear something like "thhhhe-pak" as it engages and disengages... Once the lube inside warms up you don't hear it anymore... As quirky as the car is it's computer usually knows what its doing...
  13. I'm kinda curious... has anyone ever considered rigging up some sort of manual override device? As in some sort of mechanical piston/solenoid setup to override the clutch actuator when it goes? Since the clutch appears to be dual-normal, it wouldn't seem all that hard to rig up something "Red-Green Style" to have manual control over the clutch...
  14. lol! yah for me its either my knees cracking or the ripping sound of my pants splitting most of the time ;-)But neither my knees nor my pants have the ability to resonate like metal, so it couldn't be those things... ;-)
  15. Interesting that you mention they'd affect fuel economy so badly... I've found otherwise to be true. As long as I keep them all inflated up to 29-30psi they economize remarkably well ... Sometimes I get a good look at them and wonder how many seasons I'll have left on them though... they're going on three years now... I know, though this time they're going to make a shtink about the wheels being bent out of round... They casually told me so last time that essentially one of the wheels had taken a good bashing... Even though they hold air very well.Can't they just pound the rim back to round? These are winter WinterTracs on plain smart steelies, by the way.