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  1. Covering the underside of the car are twp plastic covers, the smaller one in front. Running across the rear of the front pan from one side to the other is a brake line and attached to it in the middle of the car with a nylon tie was an electrical cable. The brake line had ruptured at the point where the nylon tie was attached. In the rear plastic cover is a channel indentation running diagonally from left to right with it exiting just in front of the right rear wheel. The brake fluid from the ruptured line had spilled into this indentation and because my car was parked nose up on a slanted driveway, the brake fluid exited just in front of the rear tire on the passenger side of the car.
  2. I had to do an emergency stop . The ABS came on and the next time I pressed the brake pedal there was nothing. I had to drive home 20 km using the emergency brake and whatever was left by pushing the brake pedal to the floor. When I got home I parked in my slanted driveway and the next day I noticed a small fresh puddle of oil just behind the passenger door. I assumed that it was brake fluid. At the present time it is still a mystery. tolsen has posted previously about coating his with some type of protectant. If my memory serves me correctly, he might have even shaved off some of the rotor to increase the gap between the rotor and stator.
  3. I would be happy to give you his name, but I would like to speak to him first. I am presently using his services to sort out a ruptured brake line. It happened 4 months ago and the car has been sitting since. There was evidence of a pool of oil on the driveway just behind the passenger door, but there is no evidence of a problem in that area now. It turns out that the brake lines all go to the left side of the car. I have just finished refilling the brake fluid reservoir and pumped the brakes. I am now looking to find out where it is leaking.
  4. With the advice from tolsen, ian122778 and the help of an extremely competent mechanic, my seized alternator has been fixed. Jacked up the rear of the car, removed the rear wheel and protective shroud and with the use of a special deep throat spanner applied torque to the alternator shaft to free it up. An interesting thing then happened. After trying to start the car, the alternator still appeared to be seized. It became necessary to do a full 360 degree rotation of the alternator shaft with the spanner until all the debris between the rotor and stator was clear. This has been an interesting adventure for me because of the conflicting advice I kept getting from outside sources. If it hadn't have been for this forum I would have been seeing a $1,000 charge for dropping the engine and replacing the alternator. I wonder how many others have had their alternator replaced unnecessarily? The mechanic from whom I bought the car told me "No problem. My son just dropped the engine and replaced a seized alternator the other day". Another mechanic felt that the alternator would be no good after it was unseized because the rotor would be damaged (somewhat analogous to a damaged front brake rotor when rusted). The diagram below shows the internals of a typical alternator. The alternator in the smart is open frame so that moisture can get in between the rotor and the stator and cause rust build up which can seize the alternator. On another smart on which this happened I got lucky and was able to free it by pushing the car in gear down my driveway and then starting it with a fully charged battery. The best part is that with the rust removal, the clearance between the rotor and stator has likely become larger. My first smart which I bought in 2007 and still own, had the problem early in the game, but even after 11 years of outside storage with no use for 2 years, it has not recurred. For anyone whose car is turning over slowly when starting because of a seized alternator, before dropping the engine and replacing the alternator I would suggest trying to free it as proposed both by tolsen and ian122778.
  5. I don't know whether the following is your problem, but it might be worthwhile trying an emulator. The ECU knows where the EGR solenoid is from a variable resistor attached to the EGR solenoid which feeds back current comparing the solenoid's position to where it has been commanded to be. If the variable resistor is worn or the wiper on the resistor bounces, this can cause limp mode to occur. Mercedes sells a short interface cable (the connectors from which are frequently used to connect to emulators) with an additional 470K Ohm resistor placed across (in parallel) with the variable feedback resistor which was likely designed to overcome this problem. This is one reason why I feel that an emulator is a better solution than a blanking plate or rotating the EGR barrel. The feedback variable resistor can still wear and cause limp mode. With an emulator, the feedback resistor is inactive and the emulator provides the feedback.
  6. Thank you for your reply. I am getting closer to finding a solution to my problem, one post at a time. If I have a ring spanner with an extended throat, is it possible to apply torque to the alternator shaft from underneath the car without putting the car on a hoist, without removing the rear wheel and without removing the wheel arch?
  7. Sorry if I need more clarification. As I mentioned, when looking downward through the engine compartment hatch I can see pavement below the alternator shaft. Would it be possible to use a standard 22 mm spanner from underneath the car without the necessity for putting it on a hoist, without the necessity of removing the rear wheel and without the necessity of removing the wheel arch?
  8. I don't own a smart ED, but I do own a 2012 Mitsubishi I-miEV which uses a small 30 AH lead acid 12V battery which has removable caps for adding water. My symptoms were similar to yours and were resolved by adding water to each cell in the battery. Likely time for a new battery, but a year later all is well. I don;t now whether this applies to the smart 12V battery, but I thought it would be worthwhile mentioning.
  9. Parked in my driveway for a long time I had mold growing on the North side of my car. If I were lost in the woods at least I would know how to find North. I used a product from Autoglym. It was in 2 parts, a cleaner that was sprayed on and scrubbed with an included stiff foam pad. After hosing off, a protective coat was applied. It worked quite well, but I am surprised at its present price.
  10. Does this mean that you are going to remove your white emulator?
  11. The alternator is seized on my 2005. It is my understanding that it might be possible to unseize it by removing the right rear wheel and wheel arch and applying torque on the alternator shaft with a 22 mm socket wrench and breaker bar. My question is this. While examining the engine compartment with the top hatch removed i can see the alternator shaft and an open view to the pavement below. If the car is placed on a hoist, is it possible to apply torque to the alternator shaft without removing the rear wheel and wheel arch?
  12. Some remaps have the ability to disable the EGR valve.
  13. If you have an emulator, it may be installed with no tools in less than one minute. Much easier in my opinion than requiring socket wrenches, much more time and hand cleaner all of which are necessary with other options.
  14. I think hat this had been mentioned previously. It was my understanding that one of your cars had a remap. Any chance that the EGR valve was disabled?