smartdriver

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  1. If the car is not in limp mode, there is a chance that the code will clear after a number of restarts.
  2. It would be worthwhile getting an OBDII reader to determine the code of the fault. It is highly unlikely that there is anything wrong with your turbo. The most likely suspects are a stuck EGR valve or stuck wastegate or both. I have had both on one of my 2005 Cabriolets. The wastegate can be freed by removing the rear body panels and lubricating the wastegate arm. The EGR valve can be cleaned and/or replaced with an emulator.
  3. How do you know that your turbo isn't working? Are you in limp mode from a stuck EGR valve or more likely partial limp mode from a stuck wastegate?
  4. Although I don't have one, many have used the Polish one successfully. Stickman007 had some made locally (in Canada) for sale. I have built a number of them when Bil Gladstone and I were testing the circuit in 2008. Deleting the EGR valve mechanically is a major undertaking although some have done it. One of my Cabriolets has a remap in which the EGR valve is disabled. My other Cabriolet isn't remapped and it is for this one that I built the emulator. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/wiki.html/technical-wikis/450/the-definitive-egr-blockdeleteemulator-guide-r42/
  5. Just a comment. Even though you still have a code, does the car still go into limp mode? Start the car, put it in Neutral and step on the accelerator. If the engine revs significantly above 3000 RPM, the car is not in limp mode. Most codes are reset after a number of restarts. On one of my 2005 Cabriolets I once temporarily had the same code. Rather than bothering with it I built an emulator and unplugged the EGR valve. You had asked what the output signal of the EGR valve looks like. Here is a link to a video made by ProgFrog showing the pulse width modulated input to the solenoid and the EGR feedback voltage from Pin 2. The emulator duplicates the feedback voltage by monitoring the pulse width modulated solenoid voltage. Although the EGR valve has only a variable resistive element, there is another resistor in the ECU forming a voltage divider so that the feedback output voltage from Pin 2 varies from about 0.8 V to 3.4 V depending on the duty cycle of the PWM input to the solenoid. Below is a schematic of the emulator. Rather than use a single 100 Ohm 2W resistor representing the solenoid load, I used 4 100 Ohm 1/2W resistors in series-parallel to create the same resistance. There is a connector cable available from Mercedes for about $40, but instead I made 5 pins from 10 Gauge household wiring and tinned them.
  6. On my SAM I had severe water incursion which damaged the PC board but that I was able to fix. Some time later I had other symptoms which examination revealed to be from severe corrosion on the connector pins. In my car I had a failing 12 V battery which I would have to recharge from time to time and my feeling was that Sulphuric acid fumes from the battery along with the presence of moisture were eating away the pins. The stock battery is supposed to be vented to the outside world with a tube placed through a hole in the chassis, but mine wasn't. After replacing and cleaning the most affected pins, before re-inserting the cable harness connectors, I sprayed the pins with Lithium Grease as a protector and after putting the SAM back in place forced a sponge on top of the wiring harness above the SAM to collect any possibility of water, likely from a leaking windshield or possibly air conditioning condensation, wicking down the cables into the connectors. This was 3 years ago and I have had no issues since even though my car has been parked outside for this length of time.
  7. I just came across the newest editions to this thread and I thought that some might find a technique that I had used to replace corroded pins useful.
  8. I recently had to take my car to a local mechanic who stated that he had to "free them from the inside". The result was that the long 2 front bolts holding the rear fenders on are still restrained in the panels themselves and no longer have any threads remaining in the frame to screw into. They simply plug into the chassis. It appears to be a non-issue because the fenders are firmly held by the remaining 5 bolts and the 4 nylon body clips which plug into the frame. On my car some of these clips had lost their retention plugin strength and I ordered some new ones from MB. They are of a different design with much greater holding retention into the frame. $1.13 Canadian each. The rear fenders are much easier to remove now that the 2 front bolts are merely plugins and I don't anticipate any further issues. Although I don't feel that any extra measures need be taken to secure the front 2 bolts, one thought that I had was to cover their exposed threaded ends with heatshrink tubing to increase their diameter and force them onto the now unthreaded holes in the chassis.
  9. Let me see if I understand this correctly. In another thread you posted the following on more than one occasion in response to a general question not asked directly of you. Yet to a salient question directed to you following a previous frivolous response there has been no reply. This would make it appear that you do not know the answer. In the interests of some form of continuity to your posts it seems to me that at the very least if you do not know the answer to a question directed at you, rather than ignoring it or giving a frivolous or trivial response you should reply with something that is more in the spirit of the above quote, such as the following " I do not know the answer and I am not replying" To make it easier so that you do not have to provide a frivolous reply or repeatedly type this response for answers that you do not know, you can simply copy and paste it for immediate use whenever you require it.
  10. Don't most fault codes automatically reset and disappear after a few restarts if the fault no longer remains? What was special about this fault code that made it persistent?
  11. Just an update. I took the car to an acquaintance with a better OBDII reader. It also identified a P0238 code even though there was no check engine light and the car's performance was normal. This code reader was able to erase it. It is still confusing to me why this error code remained yet there was no check engine light and the car's performance had returned to normal.
  12. I understood the significance of your quotes around the word scangauge. It is an old Canadian Tire OBDII reader. It identifies the code even though there is no longer a check engine light but cannot erase it and gives a "Failed" response when trying. I will take it to someone who has a better OBDII reader and see if they can erase it. The car is now performing very well.
  13. Thanks for your response. The unusual thing to me is that there is no check engine light and the car is performing much better than when the light was on. The OBDII instrument that I am using to detect codes, indicates that there is still a P0238 code which it is unable to clear and gives a "Failed" response. I will look for the MAP sensor. Funny!
  14. Both of my 2005 0.8 litre CDI Cabriolets have a small rubber tube going to the wastegate actuator as shown on the extreme left of this video. The long tubular shaped object that I use to water my lawn isn't called a water tube, it is called a water hose. Even more confusing is one of your previous posts from last October which contradicts your statement quoted above and supports my original post. On 10/6/2016 at 2:25 PM, tolsen said: Seized turbo perhaps? Waste gate actuator is controlled directly by boost pressure. Have you not noticed when checking hose that hose connects to outlet side of turbo compressor?