smartdriver

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About smartdriver

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. I don't know whether this might help. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/28744-tachometer-info-required-for-audible-rpm-alarm/#comment-327957
  2. Sorry, my remap was loaded by an acquaintance and I don't have the tools to copy it. There is a noticeable difference in performance in my remapped car compared to my stock smartcars. One feature I noted about the remap is that the EGR valve actuation has been disabled. The EGR valve must be in place with the required 0.8V quiescent feedback voltage, but the valve itself does not open or close. This caused some unanticipated difficulties when developing the emulator and I ended up sending the prototype to Bil Gladstome for his evaluation. My acquaintance is in Toronto and his website is shown below: http://www3.sympatico.ca/mdsylva/
  3. I use Duracool or Red Tek as a refrigerant in my smarts. It has a larger molecule, is under less pressure and is much slower to leak. Although mine usually lasts for a couple of years before needing recharging, it costs only about $20 per refill, which if your air conditioning system doesn't have a massive leak or compressor problems, should last all summer. What advantage would be gained by removing all the air conditioning plumbing?
  4. It's an electronic circuit which replaces the EGR valve and makes the computer think the EGR valve is still present. The EGR valve has a solenoid driven by a pulse width modulated waveform. The solenoid lets more or less exhaust gases into the intake. There is a feedback variable resistor connected to the solenoid outputting a voltage which tells the computer where the solenoid is positioned. If it is positioned incorrectly through clogging, an error is generated which puts the car into limp mode. The emulator simulates the feedback voltage that the EGR normally would generate to the computer. It is a simple matter of unplugging the EGR valve and plugging in the emulator. Emulators are available on Ebay and stickman007 has been making some, or you can make your own. If you build your own, there is a Mercedes cable available for about $40 which has connectors that plug into the car's EGR cable. On one of my emulators, rather than using the Mercedes connectors, I made my own pins using number 10 gauge household wiring. The design of the emulator began in 2008 on the following thread. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/10247-egr-valve/&page=13 ProgFrog did a nice video showing the pulse width modulated input to the EGR valve and the output voltage to the computer.
  5. Just a question. Does it matter if the cooling fins themselves are damaged?
  6. The previous post is in response to a much earlier post and to some it may appear as an advertisement. I am responding to make any that have a seized alternator aware that they do not necessarily have to have it removed and replaced. If seized, it likely can be fixed by simply applying torque to the alternator shaft with a 22mm extended socket wrench. The alternator is open frame and subject to rust build up between rotor and stator. There are likely numerous smart alternators which have unnecessarily been removed and replaced. On the other hand, if the alternator has failed electrically, it of course will be necessary to remove and replace it.
  7. I don't know whether my brake incident might apply to your car, but I found the cause of my brakes failing to be unusual. My car suffered a ruptured brake line after an emergency stop. The brake lines are predominately on the left side of the car, but cross over at the rear of the front body pan and the rear of the rear body pan. The rupture was in the middle of the front brake line where it crossed over from left to right. Although my brake lines appeared to be in good shape, this line had ruptured where a wire cable had been tied with a nylon tie to the brake line. For a repair, the line was cut with a pipe cutter and a compression fitting was inserted at the rupture.
  8. As mentioned previously, leaks at the front corners of my roof, as shown by a trip through the car wash, were fixed by cleaning out all the dirt and debris which had collected in the rubber sealing strip at the front of the roof.
  9. Your alternator can likely be easily fixed by using a penetrating fluid and turning the alternator shaft with an extended 22mm socket wrench. The intercooler being full of oil is likely from overfilling and crankcase fumes collecting in it.
  10. As discussed in a previous post, if the original cables are still in place, they may be misaligned, which is a relatively simple matter to fix by turning the motor shaft with a hex key to to remove one of them and re-align it. Putting one of my cars through a car wash also showed a leak. There was considerable debris in the rubber flashing around the front of the soft top where it closes. Cleaning out the debris stopped the leaks.
  11. At last one of my cars behaves the same and I have often wondered if there is more to the story. The resistive heater is apparently computer controlled. Please read the second last post. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/7742-ptc-heater-booster/ Another link which I believe applies to our cars. http://clubsmartcar.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=26284