Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

25 Excellent

About smartdriver

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Toronto, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

763 profile views
  1. The link provided in this thread revealed some earlier posts. Shortly after buying my used Cabriolet in 2007, I noticed oil leaking out of the air intake on the left side of the car. Looking at the dipstick, the car had been overfilled and I removed about 1 liter. The problem has not recurred. My suspicion was that parking on a sloped driveway may have been a contributing factor. My initial report of my observation of oil leaking out of the air intake and lowering the amount of oil in the crankcase to mitigate the problem was met with some skepticism.
  2. On the right hand side of the engine compartment is a small box containing the glow plug driver. There are two connectors coming out of it. One for the glow plugs and one for the supplementary electric heater. As a first step it would be worthwhile to unplug and check for corrosion on the glow plug module connectors.
  3. This has happened to me on a number of occasions. I put a long metal rod (a socket wrench extension) between the spokes of the wheel and hit the other end with a hammer. You don't have to remove the wheel this way.
  4. AHA! The feeder lines connected to the positive BATTERY clamp! My thinking was that these lines go FROM the battery, not FROM the alternator/starter. Thanks for your reply.
  5. I was confused by this statement. By typing "alternator/starter" my impression is that these are the same device which is clearly not the case. As a result I am confused about what connections actually needed tightening.
  6. Just an update. While the weather was warming up, I trickle charged the battery for 2 days. With a high current charger also applied, the result was that the engine would turn over very slowly without the solenoid dropping out, which indicated to me that the alternator is seized.
  7. Here is a link to an older post which suggests that this is a mechanical issue and the tach needle has slipped on its shaft. Reading through all the posts in the link will direct you to other posts.
  8. Thank you for your clever suggestion. Because of the rate that the solenoid clicks which is different than a previous instance of an alternator seizure, I suspect that you are correct. If it is the ground strap, do you think that might be possible to start the car by using heavy jumper cables connected between the motor and chassis? It would be nice to be able to get the car out of my driveway. EDIT: I have a new plan. Remove the engine hatch cover. Connect both jumper cable clips to the engine frame. Run the cables between the seats to the negative terminal of the battery. The weather here is below freezing after a bad ice storm and I plan to wait for a few days until it warms up.
  9. 2005 sitting outside for some time. Won't turn over, solenoid chatters about twice per second on battery alone and when external high amperage charger applied. Assuming it is a seized alternator, because the car is now stuck in my driveway, I was wondering if it were possible and worthwhile to apply or squirt some type of wicking fluid (Liquid Wrench?) through the engine compartment opening as a preliminary attempt to assist freeing it?
  10. Thanks very much to everyone for all the assistance. Leaside, Bayview-Eglinton. I have a local mechanic nearby whom I have dealt with before but I haven't contacted him. The emergency brake should suffice to get me the short distance to his shop which is just a little bit closer than Mercedes Midtown. Just an anecdotal story regarding the incident. I have 3 smartcars. Don't ask me why, I just like them. I bought the one with the bad brakes (75,000 km) 2 1/2 years ago because it had power steering and left my original one (45,000 km) sitting in my driveway for the last 2 1/2 years with the battery disconnected, but tended to from time to time. The two above are Cabriolets and last year I bought a 2005 Coupe for a good price. After the brake failure, I called my insurance company to transfer the insurance to the Coupe. It wouldn't turn over. Likely a seized alternator. I called my insurance company back one hour later, to transfer the insurance to my original Cabriolet that had been sitting for 2 1/2 years. It started right up!! The best part is that I had it remapped in 2007 and I can feel a significant difference in performance compared to the other two. Although I have encountered others with more smartcars than myself, "He who dies with the most smartcars wins".
  11. Thanks for the reply. After parking in my driveway overnight I found a puddle of brake fluid at the rear of the passenger (right side) door. It looks like it wasn't the hose.
  12. On my 2005 Cabriolet with 75,000 km, after having jammed on my brakes, the brake pedal now goes right to the floor with only a tiny residual of braking at the very bottom. Red brake warning light is also on. I am aware that there are rubber hoses going to the calipers on the front disks, one of which it seems to me has ruptured. Where else to look for a local mechanic who normally does not service smartcars? Also, is there anything special to be done in the way of bleeding the brakes after repair?
  13. Won't this mean that you will end up with a lot of oil in your intercooler?
  14. When I bought a used 2005 in 2007, I noticed oil oozing out of the air intake. Conversation at the time on these threads was that the car should not be filled to the line on the dipstick. When I examined mine, the car had been overfilled. Removing about a liter eliminated the problem. Others on this thread have discounted my observations, but my car is parked on a hill which may have been a factor. What is the oil level in your car?
  15. Pardon the underlining. For some reason or another I can't eliminate it. Code P0702 is a transmission problem. A faulty clutch actuator or chafed wiring and like yours the problem would reset after the battery was disconnected. There could be another remote possibility which is only a guess based on my experience. If the other suggestions above do not reveal any problems, I would take also look at water incursion inside the SAM module. The outside may not show any damage. Connectors N11-8 and N11-9 are prone to have water condensation wick down into the SAM. By removing the battery you are causing the computer and other multiplexing processes inside the SAM to resynchronize. On the wiring diagram below it may be seen that connector N11-8 PIN 38 has "SWITCH IN POSITION 2" recognition. Inside the SAM is a multiplexer (counter) which sequentially looks at 16 different inputs on N11-8 and N11-9. If it gets out of sync by water damage on one of the address lines it will mistake one of the inputs for another. My guess is that disconnecting the battery resets it to its proper state.