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About smartdriver

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Aha! Pin 9, a bad address line. Pin 9 is the most significant bit of the 3 bit address line which means that the chip was looking at only the sequence of inputs, 0, 1, 2 and 3 and not 4, 5, 6 and 7. The turn signals are looked at in sequence on inputs 5 and 6 and weren't being recognized. Congratulations. Nice work! You mentioned that you had replaced connectors N11-8 and 9. Amazing! On my car I had a corroded and broken pin on one of these connectors which meant that I had no horn. I was able to push an unused pin out of the connector and replace the corroded one. Thanks for reporting back. It's gratifying that the issues that I had with my car were to be of some help. For what it is worth, I cleaned all the dirt and debris under the rubber molding at the bottom of my windshield and applied a thin GE silicone windshield sealant. Even if the windshield isn't leaking, there is a possibility that condensation accumulates on the wiring harness and wicks down into the SAM. I also placed a sponge between bundles of the wiring harness above the SAM and sprayed the connector pins with a cleaning and lubricating agent such as DeoxIT. Four years later, parked outside, exposed every day to a Canadian environment and no problems.
  2. The left and right turn signal inputs go to Connector N11-9 Pins 38 and 39. Did you check the continuity shown in the blue lines on the photo below? The inputs then go to Pins 13 and 14 of the chip through plated-through holes on the board. It would be worthwhile checking to see if there is continuity directly to the pins of the chip from the top of the board to the bottom. I am concerned about this potential solution because there doesn't seem to be damage in that area. The fact that the turn signal lights flash with the key is a good sign, but it suggests that there is no input to the chip from the turn signal stalk. You stated that you originally had a permanently blinking left indicator. This is symptomatic of bad address lines and corroded plated-through hoes under the chips. Can you still confirm that Pins 9, 10 and 11 of each chip are connected to the same pins on the other chip? My turn signals didn't work because of corroded plated-through holes under the chips which I corrected with jumper wires on the top side of the board between Pins 9, 10 and 11 of each chip. I would also check to see that there is NO continuity between adjacent pins on the chip on the chance that two of them may be connected together in the soldering process. The damage on your board appears to be near Output and Enable pins 5, 6 and 7 of the chip. It would be worthwhile determining if there is continuity from these pins on the top side of the board to the bottom. One thing I would do first is to make sure that Pins 38 and 39 of the female connector at the end of the cable is also not corroded and that there is an input from the turn signal stalk on these pins. My connectors N11-8 and N11-9 had some badly corroded pins. I cleaned them with a product called DeoxIT. You have stated that you changed these connectors, but again it would be worthwhile checking corrosion on the female connector for N11-9 at the end of the cable harness. Good luck and please keep us apprised of your progress!
  3. Above is the author of this thread's first post. I tend to agree that the problem is a dead battery, but that isn't supported by the information provided.
  4. Just a comment that the original poster's car was started by a Mercedes technician through the OBD2 port which suggested that the problem in his case was a SAM problem.
  5. The last post on this thread was one week ago with no solution posted. The fact that the clock is not working likely means a bad battery, bad ground or perhaps a bad SAM ground, yet the information provided doesn't corroborate this. I was hoping that the original author, Silver, would post the solution to the problem.
  6. I have seen damaged boards other than my own and on them the damage had extended beyond the immediate area of interest. The problem was always bad plated through holes. I can only suggest that you take a scrupulous look at your board to determine if there are any other issues. One other task which is difficult to do is to put an Ohmmeter probe on the actual chip pin shown inside one of the yellow rectangles on the top side of the board and measure continuity through the board back to Pin 38. The blue line that I had drawn may not necessarily be connected to its appropriate pin on the IC because of corrosion of the final plated-through hole in the path. Although you have corrected one address line problem, it would be worthwhile trying to determine the initial source of the address lines on the chance that they are not actually being properly driven. On my board I did not need to find the address source. I can only wish you the best of luck and I suspect that you are going to get very good at removing and re-installing the SAM..
  7. Congratulations! Nice work. For your information, there are a few unused inputs on connector N11-8 and you could use these input resistors and capacitors to replace any which are missing or damaged. Regarding the Mercedes mechanic. When you first mentioned this, I speculated that he was using the OBD2 port and directly interfacing with the computer in the SAM to initiate the start sequence which wouldn't require an input from Pin 38. After finally getting my SAM working, after re-installing it, I jammed a large sponge in between bundles of the wiring harness to help prevent water from wicking into the connectors. I also had corrosion on some of my connector pins and sprayed them with a lubricating spray. The name DeoxIT comes to mind. It has been at least 4 years now with the car exposed to the elements every day with no further issues. I couldn't find a water leak in my windshield, but I did find a lot of dirt and debris under the rubber molding at the bottom. Removing this debris can only assist in making a better windshield seal. I also injected some very thin GE windshield silicone sealant under the rubber moulding. When you re-install the SAM, make sure that the 12 V battery is disconnected. There is a re-initialization sequence and if the connectors are randomly plugged in when there is 12 V present on the SAM, nasty things will happen,
  8. Yikes! I would first look to see if there is 12V on the fused output connectors of the SAM. You don't have to remove the SAM. In the photo, the top bank of four are switched. The bottom 5 are always on. The unswitched ones are provided with 12 V directly from the battery. The 12 V comes from a heavy gauge wire connected to a screw terminal labelled N11-11 on the top side of the SAM. If there is no 12 V on the unswitched terminals, I would drop the SAM and see if there is 12 V on the heavy gauge red wire going to N11-11. Have you removed and reconnected the battery terminals? My initial thinking was that this is a bad ground connection from the battery, but you indicated that you had measured 14 V from the battery positive to ground.
  9. Yes it is the heavy red cable going to the SAM connector N11-11. For the SAM to be energized apart from the unswitched outputs, a signal from the key switch position 1 must go to the SAM. This is part of the security system. How is the battery in your key fob? The doors must be unlocked with the key fob in order to overcome the immobilizer.
  10. I am now wondering how you unlocked the car. Do the doors open with the key fob? There is a heavy red 12 V cable running directly to the SAM unit N11-11. It powers many of the devices in the car. Some of the fused outputs on the SAM are switched, others unswitched. Determining if there is 12 V present at the SAM would be a first step in diagnosing this problem. The link below is for the 450 SAM wiring Connector 11-4 Pin 1 is the switched 12V supply from key switch position 1.
  11. If I may correct the above statement. It is the ignition switch which applies an input to connector N-11 Pin 38 of the SAM which starts the ignition sequence. The SAM may not be receiving a signal from its input N11-8 Pin 38. Before proceeding with a new pushbutton switch I believe it important to confirm that no signal is getting to N-11 Pin 38. The problem is unlikely to be the ignition switch and is more likely to be an open trace on the printed circuit board. Connecting a voltmeter between Pin 38 of the female connector on the wiring harness and ground and turning the ignition switch to position 2 should confirm this. My reasoning is based on the fact that even though you have checked that the traces were clean, did you actually check their continuity? Although the traces may appear to be clean, plated-through holes on the circuit board could be open. Did you check the continuity between the 3 orange wires on the photo going between the 2 multiplexer chips? The address inputs to both chips are in parallel and connected by plated-through holes under the chips. These wires are a 3 bit address line which counts from 0 to 7 and sequentially looks at 16 different inputs (8 per chip). If the plated-through holes under the chips are corroded, the sequencing will be incorrect and your starter input could be missing. Water tends to pool under the chips and damage the plated-through holes. The solution in my case was to connect 3 jumpers from pin to pin on top of the board to the address lines (Pins 9, 10 and 11) between chips which are shown in the orange boxes in the photo below. Pin 9 to Pin 9, Pin 10 to Pin 10, Pin 11 to Pin 11. This bypassed the corroded and open plated-through hole address lines under the chips. I have included another photo showing the input Pin 38 connections in blue. There should be continuity between the end of each blue wire. Similarly, there should be continuity between each end of the orange address line connections. The drawing in the previous post has all the 16 input connections shown.
  12. Just curious if you measured the voltage directly across the battery or from the Positive terminal to the chassis of the car?
  14. I had this once. It was caused by water incursion into the SAM which eroded some traces and also a corroded connector N11-8. The connector related to this connection is shown below. The yellow and orange lines shown on the printed circuit board photo represent where there should be continuity between pads on the board. If it is in fact water corrosion there are likely to be other issues. It is also possible for water to corrode the connector pins. As a first step I would unplug connector N11-8 and examine the pins on the SAM connector. Having a battery inside the passenger compartment isn't such a great idea. Although the battery is supposed to have an external vent tube, if it doesn't, low level sulfuric acid fumes combined with moisture (condensation from AC?) can create significant problems. There is of course, always the possibility that the ignition switch is faulty.
  15. Basically because I am lazy. The smart with the potential brake issue has one year to go on both its licence plate sticker and emission test. I could swap plates and insurance for 2 other smarts which I also own, which would require new licence stickers $120 and emission tests to put them on the road. Rather than spend $400 and the time it takes for new brakes for a car which I intend to swap over next year when its plates have expired, it appears that it can be safely driven until then.