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About smartdriver

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  1. My car had similar symptoms but had a overpressure code. All became well after lubricating the wastegate. Please let us know how you make out removing the rear fenders.
  2. It has been a while since this happened to me, but a wire going to the SAM has likely been plugged into the wrong position. The SAM has a bank of 9 individual fused wire connections. Five of these are always on, the remainder are key switched on. The photo below shows where they are, but in the photo only one wire is plugged in. In the photo, the top bank of four are switched. The bottom 5 are always on.
  3. From time to time I have measured the voltage coming from the cigarette lighter. Or you can use a DC clamp on ammeter around the ground wire of the battery in the footwell of the passenger compartment.
  4. One of my Cabriolets has a remap which has disabled the EGR valve. I was wondering if your cars might have been remapped?
  5. Because I don't have the tools or mechanical skills to fix the EGR valve, I took the easy way out and built an emulator. I have always admired those on this forum who do have these skills, but one question I would like to ask is, why not just use an emulator even if just for a backup in an emergency limp mode situation?
  6. My experience has been that if it is truly in limp mode when going up hills that that this is a stuck or misadjusted wastegate issue.
  7. I don't know whether this will help, but the Canadian cars have only one roof motor and once aligned cannot go out of sync. Assuming that there isn't some other obstruction, it might be worthwhile removing one motor and see how it functions using only one, which apparently is a published solution to a syncing problem. I also remember having a terrible time feeding the drive spring back through the motor drive hole. Apparently it is common for the end of the drive spring to develop a burr on it making it extremely difficult to push it through. A fine screwdriver and a lot of force finally did the trick.
  8. Just being the devil's advocate. Could water from the atmosphere not condense and collect inside on the cold metallic surfaces? How does a headlight lens get water inside?
  9. Just a comment. I assume that in removing the SAM that you also disconnected all the connectors. It seems more likely to me that a corroded connector and the act of reconnecting the SAM was the primary factor in correcting the issue rather than a blown fuse.
  10. If the car is not in limp mode, there is a chance that the code will clear after a number of restarts.
  11. It would be worthwhile getting an OBDII reader to determine the code of the fault. It is highly unlikely that there is anything wrong with your turbo. The most likely suspects are a stuck EGR valve or stuck wastegate or both. I have had both on one of my 2005 Cabriolets. The wastegate can be freed by removing the rear body panels and lubricating the wastegate arm. The EGR valve can be cleaned and/or replaced with an emulator.
  12. How do you know that your turbo isn't working? Are you in limp mode from a stuck EGR valve or more likely partial limp mode from a stuck wastegate?
  13. Although I don't have one, many have used the Polish one successfully. Stickman007 had some made locally (in Canada) for sale. I have built a number of them when Bil Gladstone and I were testing the circuit in 2008. Deleting the EGR valve mechanically is a major undertaking although some have done it. One of my Cabriolets has a remap in which the EGR valve is disabled. My other Cabriolet isn't remapped and it is for this one that I built the emulator.
  14. Just a comment. Even though you still have a code, does the car still go into limp mode? Start the car, put it in Neutral and step on the accelerator. If the engine revs significantly above 3000 RPM, the car is not in limp mode. Most codes are reset after a number of restarts. On one of my 2005 Cabriolets I once temporarily had the same code. Rather than bothering with it I built an emulator and unplugged the EGR valve. You had asked what the output signal of the EGR valve looks like. Here is a link to a video made by ProgFrog showing the pulse width modulated input to the solenoid and the EGR feedback voltage from Pin 2. The emulator duplicates the feedback voltage by monitoring the pulse width modulated solenoid voltage. Although the EGR valve has only a variable resistive element, there is another resistor in the ECU forming a voltage divider so that the feedback output voltage from Pin 2 varies from about 0.8 V to 3.4 V depending on the duty cycle of the PWM input to the solenoid. Below is a schematic of the emulator. Rather than use a single 100 Ohm 2W resistor representing the solenoid load, I used 4 100 Ohm 1/2W resistors in series-parallel to create the same resistance. There is a connector cable available from Mercedes for about $40, but instead I made 5 pins from 10 Gauge household wiring and tinned them.
  15. On my SAM I had severe water incursion which damaged the PC board but that I was able to fix. Some time later I had other symptoms which examination revealed to be from severe corrosion on the connector pins. In my car I had a failing 12 V battery which I would have to recharge from time to time and my feeling was that Sulphuric acid fumes from the battery along with the presence of moisture were eating away the pins. The stock battery is supposed to be vented to the outside world with a tube placed through a hole in the chassis, but mine wasn't. After replacing and cleaning the most affected pins, before re-inserting the cable harness connectors, I sprayed the pins with Lithium Grease as a protector and after putting the SAM back in place forced a sponge on top of the wiring harness above the SAM to collect any possibility of water, likely from a leaking windshield or possibly air conditioning condensation, wicking down the cables into the connectors. This was 3 years ago and I have had no issues since even though my car has been parked outside for this length of time.