Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by smartdriver

  1. Won't this mean that you will end up with a lot of oil in your intercooler?
  2. When I bought a used 2005 in 2007, I noticed oil oozing out of the air intake. Conversation at the time on these threads was that the car should not be filled to the line on the dipstick. When I examined mine, the car had been overfilled. Removing about a liter eliminated the problem. Others on this thread have discounted my observations, but my car is parked on a hill which may have been a factor. What is the oil level in your car?
  3. Pardon the underlining. For some reason or another I can't eliminate it. Code P0702 is a transmission problem. A faulty clutch actuator or chafed wiring and like yours the problem would reset after the battery was disconnected. There could be another remote possibility which is only a guess based on my experience. If the other suggestions above do not reveal any problems, I would take also look at water incursion inside the SAM module. The outside may not show any damage. Connectors N11-8 and N11-9 are prone to have water condensation wick down into the SAM. By removing the battery you are causing the computer and other multiplexing processes inside the SAM to resynchronize. On the wiring diagram below it may be seen that connector N11-8 PIN 38 has "SWITCH IN POSITION 2" recognition. Inside the SAM is a multiplexer (counter) which sequentially looks at 16 different inputs on N11-8 and N11-9. If it gets out of sync by water damage on one of the address lines it will mistake one of the inputs for another. My guess is that disconnecting the battery resets it to its proper state.
  4. Just curious of you actually drove 95km on the 240V charge or was this the predicted range?
  5. It has always interested me that there is a 110 V connector on the front of the car which requires a special power cord. I simply put a heater or whatever I want to connect inside the car. With the car door open I connect an extension cord and slam the door. Done!
  6. Recently while driving my 2005 Cabriolet at -10 C after a heavy snow, the windows became so fogged and iced up it became unsafe to drive. Even the supplementary electric heat control didn't help, although the windshield did clear as the engine warmed up, but the side windows remained bad. There was so much moisture in the car that it seemed that the cabin air intake had likely ingested snow which melted causing the high humidity. I was wondering if any knew of there is a water drain for the cabin air intake and what are the chances of it being plugged?
  7. Thanks tolsen and GRP151. Now that it is above freezing I will check it out.
  8. Here is a Canada wide search listing sale prices of used ED smarts in Canadian dollars. Price in U.S dollars is about 80% of the Canadian dollar price. Price does not include sale tax which in the Province in which I live is 13% which is paid when the car is registered.
  9. Just an update to my previous post about my car not turning over (seized) at -20 C even with a high current battery booster across the battery. My speculation was that the open frame alternator had accumulated ice and snow from my 30 minutes of trying to get up my driveway which caused it to seize. Today at +1 C I went out to start the car and it had no problem, first turn of the key.
  10. Just thought that I would chime in about what for me was a new Winter experience for my 2005 Cabriolet. Christmas day at -15 C I spent one half an hour trying to get up my snowed in driveway going both forward and in reverse with the traction control intermittently turning on and off and in the process sending rooster tails of snow and ice across the street. I didn't drive the car for two weeks and yesterday at -20 C even with a high current battery charger attached across the battery, the car wouldn't turn over. It seems likely that I have the dreaded seized alternator issue and my only hope is that it is a result of ice build up from the rooster tails which will melt away as soon as it gets above freezing.
  11. When I used the Mercedes cable I used the unused connector and plugged it into the EGR valve connector socket to protect the contacts. When I built my own connector, I jammed springy foam into the EGR contact shell.
  12. Not trying to be a naysayer, just preventive maintenance. More than anyone needs to know about the low temperature liabilities of electrolytic capacitors.
  13. I notice that this circuit uses an integrated circuit, likely an op-amp, instead of the discrete transistors in my original circuit. One caveat. This circuit appears to use an Electrolytic capacitor (the large cylindrical black object) which can freeze and make the circuit inoperable under very cold conditions. It would be worthwhile using a Tantalum capacitor instead of an Electrolytic because of its better extreme cold weather performance. Something to consider changing for anyone using this circuit in an extremely cold environment.
  14. After building a number of these for my cars and spending $40 each time for a Mercedes plug and cable, for the last one I used some number 10 gauge household wiring, stripped off the insulation and made my own pins.
  15. On 11/22/2016 at 6:13 PM, tolsen said: My advice is forget and bin those emulators, clean up your EGR valve and just blank off exhaust supply to the valve. ====================================================== HUH???????
  16. It has been a number of years and without re-reading the entire thread on the topic, am I correct in remembering that you did some keyhole surgery in a thermostat and epoxied the check valve in place?
  17. My comment was intended to be somewhat facetious. It would have been virtually impossible in 2005 when the smart was first introduced to North America to have predicted that the starter solenoid connection would ultimately become corroded and would require dismantling the car to access it. This also goes for a chronically clogged EGR valve, a stuck wastegate, a frozen alternator, stuck rear brakes, split reluctor rings, broken front springs and water incursion on the wiring harness to the SAM, seven common problems which were only revealed by time.
  18. The next time that I buy a new car I will be sure to dismantle it before using it and spray an oily solution on all the electrical connections.
  19. My car had this error occur after driving about 2 km and going up the same hill while going to work every day. Removed the rear panels and freed the wastegate.
  20. It would appear from stickman007's post that the numbers do not match.
  21. Did you not receive instructions from stickman? Your Pin 1 and Pin 5 are correct. I'm surprised that you didn't take the time to read the previous post thoroughly. By clicking on the stickman007 link you will see a photo with pin numbers that may or may not be the same as the pinouts on your emulator. They are not necessarily Perhaps stickman007 can chime in. You can confirm the correct pinouts by comparing the physical circuit to the schematic below.
  22. Just a comment about the fuel pump and headlight corrosion problem. A number of years ago I had serious water incursion into my SAM and a number of pins on the connector were also corroded. The speculation at the time is that there was a windshield leak. My feeling is that the problem is in fact due to cold weather or air conditioning condensation accumulating on the wiring harness and wicking down into the SAM. This problem is likely compounded by having an unvented 12V battery in the passenger footwell. After fixing the SAM and using a contact cleaner on the connectors, I jammed a sponge around the wiring harness just above the SAM. Five years later, parked outdoors in a Canadian climate, no further problems.
  23. The SAM output to the starter solenoid is on connector N11-6 Pin 1. Measuring the voltage there when starting the car would determine if the SAM is OK or if it is starter related.
  24. What was your educated guess about the emulator pins?
  25. The EGR valve has a variable resistive feedback element which tells the ECU what position the solenoid valve is in. It can wear and bounce causing electronic noise for which Mercedes Benz sold an accessory cable with a high value resistor placed across the resistive element to prevent the ECU from seeing an open circuit. You didn't install the emulator?????