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About ASmartMan

  1. Greetings allI'm looking to dissect A SAM unit from a gen 2 450, if you have one I'll pay for the shipping I will share what (if anything) with all during the dissection.Thanks for any helpASM
  2. Hey AllWith the summer around the corner (not soon enough), you G&K guys, where did you buy your sun blinds from?Also the head lamps G&K used (low and Hi beams), are they standard or special (G&K part), I would like to get a spare low and hi beam on hand ( if it is not an over the counter thing here in the US), a set of front and rear break pads I too would like to have on hand.OOHH and the NGK plugs, where did you get those.As this summer goes by I would like to build an inventory of items that I know will need to be changed but can't get quickly.I thank everyone in advance for pointing me to the various sources for these itemsThanksASM
  3. MikeThanks, I thought it was a MB OEM part, I E-Mailed G&K yesterday and still waiting for their response.I'll just cut a swap the wires BUT all you G&K guys may want to see if you have the same problem too.ASM
  4. Hey AllI just found a QC issue with my 2006 Passion.On the driver's side the directional seemed not to work, so I took the nose off today to replace the bulb, with inspection coming in January I didn't want to wait till it was sub-zero before I replaced it.This was what I found, on the drivers side the the running lights powered the "Bright" part of the bulb and the directional powered the "Dim" side of the bulb (this is backwards). I (as a test) swapped sockets (drivers side to passenger side and vice verse) and found the problem followed the socket, this was when I went WOW.This problem made it past MBs QC, made it past G&Ks (US importer) QC, the local dealer, and this car has been inspected twice by New Hampshire inspection stations.So for those who have a G&K converted 2006 Passion you may want to take a close look at this (G&K bought in bulk SSOO they would have gotten consecutive serial numbers cars meaning I may not be the only one the have this problem) to see if you have the same problem.Just a thoughtASM
  5. GreetingsLet the drama continue OK so I finished wiring it late yesterday afternoon (including the installation of the drive shaft speed pickup) it was getting late and the wife and I had to go out so I put off the testing till today.WELL I never got out of the driveway before I called off the test.I started the car, placed in reverse, took my foot off the brake and the Smart started to beep, put my foot back on the brake and it stopped. Then I tried applying a little gas and the beeping stopped, I backed up shifted to neutral, removed foot from brake and no beeps. I then shifted to 1st, took my foot off the brake and it starts beeping again until I touch the gas. I checked the warning lights and nothing, so I parked and spent some time thinking about what this is.I'm guessing here, but I am assuming it is MB's way of telling you you have tail light out, as I said this is just a guess. BUT all my lights are working and what is going on here??????? then it dawned on me (once again another guess).I'm assuming the C/C wire I connected to the tail light bulb may have unbalanced the brake electrical circuit (lowering the resistance OR applying a slight bias voltage), MB has some rather complicated electronics in this little car (I'm impressed) and where the braking circuit is such a major part of the electronics, disrupting it may of caused the audible trouble code.The moment I removed the wire from the brake circuit the beeping went away ( WOW and what a sigh of relief from me too) confirming my prior assumptions.Next weekend (when time permits) I will find out what it took the cause this beeping, lower resistance, a slight bias voltage, and I'll actually remove the bulb to see if in fact it is MBs way of letting you know a bulb is out.If any one out there can answer these questions, Please speak up so I can finish the project before Christmas Hee Hee HeeASM
  6. Evening ALLWell I set out on Saturday to quickly get my lawn cut so I could dive into finishing up the C/C.The starter on my tractor is bad, now being middle age, a little bit of a pot in my mid section , and having to retire form volleyball puts me a bit out of shape SSOO to cut 2 + acres using a pusher was a job so I got a late start on Sunday.Got most wired, I even used the switch pad that came with the 1st (vacuum servo-ed) C/C (this is just till I select my final switch set up). I ran into 2 issues (still not a show stopper).1: I assumed (OOHH that word again) that the wire identified on the SAM unit as "Break Switch" was the return from the break switch, BUT NNNOOO it was the supply voltage (no switching going on here), I decided (because I was running 1 wire to the back of the car, it is JUST as easy to run 2 (ran it to the break light).2: Well it really wasn't an assumption, it was actually a wish, The ECM unit has 2 wires identified as "Transmission RPM" the VSS signal on pins 11 and 30. well pin 11 is the ONLY red wire in the 100+wire harness (easy to find) and pin 30 was white (there are 14 of these).WELL you guessed it the red wire is +12 out to the sensor, so that means VSS return is on one of those white wires.I dug out my scope (with inverter) ask wife to plan on driving me around our dead end, strapped things down with the plan to find out what white wire was the VSS return, then had a moment.I realize this has been dragging on for weeks, but if you look at the steps to get to where I am today (remove nose, drill 2 holes, snake cable through front, then remove gas peddle, drill hole, insert supplied parts, and wire (so far) like a stereo) there really isn't much for a semi handy man to do.I've avoided jacking up the car (so people less nimble than I could follow this) and made a point of selecting options most could are comfortable with, that is why I've decided to go with the Audiovox mounted (on axle shaft) speed sensor.I figured fewer readers would want to try this if they had to try a 1 in 14 chance of getting the correct white wire and even fewer may have the tools I have to locate the correct white wire in the first place. So this adds a few bucks to the project (final tally will come with the final conclusion), but should be easy to follow.OOHH I do have a question for the MB and MDC C/C people out there, when you activate your cruise does it disable the throttle peddle? I wonder this because it's a drive by wire system.Well till next weekendASM
  7. DUDE I'm a little confused (it may be due to the beer ) my project has NOTHING to do with the MDC C/C nor have I posted ANYTHING about the wiring (coming this week end) for my C/C option. I can post about a few things I've learned TODAY, first being, the dealer I bought the Smart from seem to be really a good dealer (they refunded me the $45 for inspection I had to pay, they also honored a FREE oil change I got today). I was taken back when I found out that for $80 they can put the MB TAN code in for the C/C (made me wonder (WHAT AM I DOING)). Regardless, wiring prints and testing video(s) will come this weekend, then I'll be off to the next project I will ONLY post when done with this one, but just to give you all an Idea whats next, check out these links and Later all ASM
  8. FOOTBALLBrother and I sat down for a day of football yesterday (SSOO nothing got done), we put the car back together during half time and called it a day.s_mack, I was searching for membrane switches today and found the mother load (I know what I will be choosing). If this works, I would prefer to go with my $15 Newark Electronics option rather than the MB stalk.I want to release you from your commitment, BUT also want to assure you (because I want to have cruise control regardless) if I fail I will be getting the ONLY other option available to me, the MDC C/C.Next weekend will be the threshold, some time this week I plan on testing the Vss to see how many pulses per revolution (tire is 72" (6 foot) diameter, that means 970 revelations per mile I'll count the pules for 1 revolution and calculate accordingly.Till next weekend ALLASM
  9. Hey All Day 2 and I finally got it installed, this took ALL day due to the fact I changed my mind about 4 times. I'm taking this SLOW due to the fact that if I screw something up I'm SOL (being in the US), but now that it's done, it wasn't that bad. First decision was where to mount the servo, at first it was going outside, I nixed this (due to weather and if I needed to change the dip switches, I'd have to pull the nose off every time), so instead it went here (tie wraps are only temporary until I get the DIP switches set correctly), that meant I had to drill a hole here , I will RTV it later. and I also had to cut the foam foot rest . Next was where to snake the cable through the nose (down along the plastic bottom panel, then turned up before the steering knuckle and through the hole behind the peddle), I used a few wire ties to keep it out of the fan and away from the steering knuckle and rod. Next decision was how to mount the cable through the firewall (this too had 3 ways). Because the cable had a thread-able plastic I used 2 lock nuts this will also allow some adjustment in the future. the hole went here and with the carpet in place it melted into the background Time to mod the peddle, the counter sunk screw before I painted it and the uncut chain and unpainted back complete now these adjustment nuts will come in handy to take out the little slack. That is as far as I got today (7 hours worth) but in the end I believe I selected the better of my options and I didn't damage anything . If any one decides to try what I am doing, snaking the cable through the nose is tough, if this was 10 years ago I was still playing competitive volleyball my arms would not of fit in to the little gaps. Tomorrow I do the basic wiring (stop switch/power and ignition) I know what wires are for transmission RPM but this is what I don't know, is it a sign wave or a square wave? and how many pulses per mile? I don't know if anyone here knows, but that means I have to break out my Oscope and freq counter (as well as my inverter) to get this data. The ONLY thing I still do not know is, will the electric servo have enough torque to pull the gas peddle down, there is a LOT of spring in that thing, and I'm hoping I won't have to start playing with springs. WELL only time will tell. On a side note, while taking a break today, I was thinking about the programing of the dip switches especially the rate response (how fast it reacts) and something dawned on me My C/C will not know when the car is shifting and with a rapid response rate will try to apply more throttle while shifting (Especially going up hill, it will apply throttle, the car will kick down, and during that kick down will apply even more throttle maybe causing a 2 gear kick down). I suspect you guys with the MDC C/C are seeing the exact same thing I am expecting (MDC doesn't talk to the MB computer so it too doesn't know the clutch has been pushed in) Time to take the wife to dinner, Later All ASM
  10. s_mackYour on , If I lose I will buy a MDC Cruise Control from you, if I win then I'll expect you to honor your offer to provide "I'll donate a genuine Smart cruise switch so you can polish it off."I will be willing to drive (up to 300 miles) to have an independent person verify my results, OOHH I live in Londonderry NH.SSOO I guess I won't have to put much thought in to the switch pad Hee Hee HeeLet the games beginASM
  11. Hey All As the heading states, the progress was Slow today for a few reasons (mostly due to my lack of experience with this car). First off, MB packed 10 pounds in to a 5 pound bag Then to find out the (what we in the US would call the front firewall) the firewall is PLASTIC, fearing there was more to this firewall than just a plastic divider (chamber that was used for the Defrost, or etc), I searched and searched, only to conclude it is JUST a piece of plastic . I measured the travel of the gas peddle and and found the travel exceeded the aftermarket servo driven C/C This ONLY means the C/C will use 80% of the peddle throw (so this cruise control will NOT be able to floor the gas peddle, that may NOT be a bad thing), and it also means I will be using a make up chain (if the C/C moves 2.25 inches but the peddle moves 3 inches, there has to be something to absorb that extra movement). I had the drill in hand ( with a .600" bit ) to drill the ONLY hole needed to install this C/C, but it was getting dark and tomorrow is another day Tomorrow I hope to, drill hole for the snap lock stand off (the cable of the C/C fits snugly in to this), select chain length, and affix this chain to the gas peddle, (picture will be BEFORE paint, I will paint this flat black so it mixes into the back ground). As the Icon promotes, It's beer time Later All ASM
  12. Hey All About a week and a half ago I jammed 2 fingers and kind of was put out of commission, I plan to restart this project tomorrow. I was also slowed down by some software installation, and this is still an ongoing project.I’m confused why it will be assumed this will be a hack job, I have 3 options for the controls, 1: buy an OEM stock and wire it in to the after market C/C, 2 use a miniature membrane switch pad affixed next to the shifter, or 3 buy the OEM cabrio soft top control panel (this may be the option I go with because this is a natural hand location while driving, requiring very little movement to adjust speed).I should have this mechanically installed before the end of the weekend, would U guys like to see it as the steps are completed or just 1 big project report.Later All ASM
  13. Hey AllThanks , pictures were taken atop Mount Agassiz in Bethlehem, NH, this is in the White Mountains range.Actually he is getting ready to sell the mountain, he is getting up there in age and the winters are starting to get tough for him up there, but a mountain in NH with a tared access road is rather pricey (I know, almost I crapped when I heard the appraised value).The net is (I believe) just that, a net for luggage, I would guess it is a future option (if not current) on the 451 model.Thanks again ASM
  14. Hey All Well it just SO happens my mentor owns a mountain, I drove up, asked the wife to be the model and here are the results The Cruise control is on hold for a bit (just shipped TODAY). OOHH and by the way, that is the view from the dinning room table (God I hope he remembers me in his will ) He Hee Hee ASM
  15. smartzuu Let me get this first project out of the way before I start talking about the trip computer All Well it was a very short search, when a good onboard 12 volt vacuum pump came out at $300 + I decided the wife is getting cruise control and I just bought this for about $180. It will be here Tue (Monday is a holiday in the US). We'll restart the games on Tuesday ASM