amr530711

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About amr530711

  • Birthday 07/11/1953

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    Arnprior ON
  1. was there any resolution to this issue? My car is doing the same thing now, it won't shift into forward or reverse, but the attempts are accompanied by the same sound you hear when shifting into or out of reverse with the key on but the engine not running. - The attempts into reverse are noisier and closer together than the attempts into forward, and both result in three bars after a short period of time. When the engine isn't running it seems to shift into gear. (the car will roll in neutral but not in reverse nor first.)
  2. I've got the alternator out of my car (again). There is a short somewhere and I wanted to check the starter cable. The cable looks good, so I connected it to the battery to see what happens, nothing bad, so the short seems to be in the alternator. In fact, I was able to start the car with no alternator installed, but not with the key, I needed to use the jumper wire connected to the starter solenoid. Since all of my "key won't engage the starter" issues went away each time I replaced the alternator, I'm wondering if the two small wires on the back of the alternator are somehow related? I know one is to provide 12V to energize the alternator, and I presume the other is to provide feedback - could they be linked into the starter circuit somehow? Or is the sam looking for some kind of signal from them before it will trigger the starter solenoid?
  3. a progress report. Got the car home, put it on jack stands and pulled the alternator. With the cable disconnected from the alternator, the short is gone. Looks like the problem is not in the cable between the battery and the alternator. I can't find any chaffing on the cable between the alternator and the starter, either. Hooked the two cables back together (minus the alternator) and don't have a short - in fact, I was able to start the car, and all of the electrics seem to work. I'm taking the alternator in tomorrow to get it properly tested.
  4. Positive lead, the negative (ground) lead is brown, and only a few inches long. It ends in the footwell.
  5. car died today, dash went blank. I'd done most of my morning errands, starting and stopping several times. The last time, however, I started the car, backed out of the parking spot, and just started moving forward when it bucked, the dash went blank, came back on, then went blank again. No power anywhere. Radio doesn't work, no four way flashers, no power to windows, no bells, clicks, nor any other noises. Red cable from positive post of battery goes to the Sam, if it is powered separately, all the lights, locks, windows, and the radio work (radio needs the codes reset), but not the starter. The black cable appears to have a solid short, but I can't locate the end of it (car is still sitting in a parking lot). Does anyone know what it connects to? Is it the starter, the alternator, or something else? I'll be going back tomorrow with more tools and a fully charged battery, the one in the car was quite warm and reading less than 4 volts, even though it was enough to start the car initially. Not sure if it's a co-incidence or not, but the bucking happened at roughly the same time as the alternator usually activates.
  6. [note: the car won't crank using the key. It will crank if the solenoid is activated remotely. The problem exists somewhere between the key switch and the solenoid.Does anyone know which wire exiting the SAM is the one that activates the solenoid? or activates a relay that activates the solenoid? or is it a wire running directly from the key switch?
  7. not riding solo, not garaged, rarely play hockey when it's not below +4C. Replacing the window is a rather minor inconvenience, especially since it usually waits until after the new year to break.
  8. I've experienced a similar problem many times over the past few years. The really frustrating thing is having it resolve itself when you do absolutely nothing.1) hop in car, turn key, engine doesn't turn over. oops, maybe I forgot to a) put it in neutral, step on the brake, or c) push the button on key fob. ReDo all these things (mostly subconsciously) and it starts.2) drive to car to Tim Hortons, go to leave 10 minutes later, car won't start. ReDo all the starting sequence things. Turn key, get N on the display, bells, chimes, and clicks, but engine doesn't turn over. Try is several times, finally give up and go and tell the Tim Hortons' people that I will be back after work to get my car. When I go to get my lunch pail, I try it one more time and it starts!3) drive to car to breakfast, go to leave an hour later, car won't start. ReDo all the starting sequence things. Turn key, get N on the display, bells, chimes, and clicks, but engine doesn't turn over. Give up and go home to get tools. Come back a couple of hours later and test battery voltage, and tighten connections that I can reach. Still won't start. Sit in car quietly and turn key and listen for clicks and other noises, turn key off and listen to those noises as well. Repeat, and draw a map. Repeat, ignore first noise, map the second. Repeat a whole bunch of times, suddenly it works!4) drive to car to museum, go to leave three hours later, car won't start. Turn key, get N on the display, bells, chimes, and clicks, but engine doesn't turn over. No tools, wiggle wires, poke at starter wire with a stick, still won't start. Finally call a flatbed for a $150 ride home. I don't try it as soon as it's home, that would be too frustrating to have it work! Try it next morning, still doesn't start, relief that I didn't get it towed for nothing. Try it next evening when I get home from work, and it starts! Grrr.Not exactly sure what prompted me to do it, but I connected a jumper wire and push button switch between the starter solenoid and the battery - then when the car won't start with the key I can manually activate the starter and it will start. Turning the key appears to be initiating all of the necessary functions, it even turns the heater fan off, but is won't engage the starter. The car won't start unless I initiate with the key, and won't start if I don't activate the starter soon enough, either.At the time I didn't think they were related, but the alternator started squealing for about 5 seconds, usually as soon as I started the car but not until I started moving forward if it was really cold outside.Eventually the alternator died. The shop that sold me a new one tested the old and said it was "fried". When I installed the new alternator, the "won't start" problem went away, at least for a year or so. It started acting up again a couple of months ago, but I had my manual starter so it was no big deal (or so I thought). However, rather quickly it got so that I had to use the manual method nearly every time. At roughly the same time, the alternator started squealing again - I attributed that to the bitter cold, and I'm not sure which happened first, the squeal or the no start. Anyway, last week the squeal persisted, then quit, and so did the alternator.Not sure if the two are related, but I'll be putting in a new alternator next week and see if the no start goes away.PS - the SAM has no signs of any corrosion, all connections appear clean and secure, I've never even blown a fuse.Any thoughts?
  9. I'm a goalie, and shoving my hockey bag in the back breaks the plastic at -40.So, every spring I replace it using clear heavyweight vinyl from Home Hardware, glued in place with Marine GOOP. Between the time it breaks and the time I replace it, I hold the pieces together with clear packing tape. If it was just a summer car I'd use the heavier vinyl they use for boats, and sew it in place. (the dealership wanted $3500 to replace the entire top, the only way they knew how to do it)
  10. I passed 100km on Monday, and today the car broke - lost top end power, not sure what's wrong yetNo codes or anything, but the behaviour is the same as when my turbo failed at about 50km - that time it was under warranty....
  11. Just curious - which symptom indicates a problem with the starter? and why will it resume starting without fixing anything?
  12. My experience this morning.......Took the car to breakfast, it likes french toast. When we went to leave it wouldn't start. Turned the key, all the lights came on, chimes chimed, foot on brake, shifted to neutral, turned key more, NOTHING! This has happened before, so repeat the sequence. In the past this has worked first try, but today, nothing. Must have tried a dozen times. Got a ride home, checked this forum for hints, checked evilution too, and went back with some tools. Sat in the car and listened as I turned the key, shifted, stepped on the brake, stuff like that. Can hear the clutch when I shift, can hear clicking in the passenger foot well when stepping on brake, and clicking in dash when turning the key, but no start. Did this a couple of dozen times. Considered trying to push start but couldn't remember the technique, so was about to come home and look it up, but tried one more thing first - moved the shift lever back and forth, left and right, a whole bunch of times, then turned the key. Nothing right away, but after a brief delay (about a second) the starter engaged - I was holding the key in the start position listening for other clicks. Drove it home, then turned it off, and restarted it without problems, several times. (and just tried it again, after having cooled for an hour). None of these restarts had a delay between turning the key and energizing the starter.My dilemma - the problem has gone away, but isn't fixed. Is anyone familiar with the interlocks that prevent it starting? We've got the disabler indicated by the key in the speedo display, we got the "Must be in neutral" , and we've got the foot on the brake lock, are these mechanical locks, or logic? I believe the disabler is logic, the brake is mechanical (I can hear a relay), but the shifter is puzzling, other than the clutch there is no audible indicator - does anyone know where the contact is? Cleaning it might help.Any other ideas?Thanks
  13. Just a note to thank the forum and share my experienceI got a check engine light, code P0405, and limp mode shortly after an oil change (the second time this has happened right after an oil change, might put some weight behind the "only fill to 3/4 mark comment)I pulled the EGR (thanks for the pictures and instructions) and it was very dirty with the piston clogged. Not a difficult job, especially after getting the Torx combination wrenches from Princess Auto, (now discontinued but they will check other stores and have them shipped to you)Cleaned it out with Gunk and Disc Brake cleaner and put everything back together. Started the engine and got check engine light, code P0405 AND P0403, but didn't get limp mode. Reset the codes but they came back instantly. Gave up and spent the rest of the afternoon visiting. (and fuming)Tried it again that evening, NO check engine light, no limp mode, but still had P0405 and P0403. Shifting seemed off with higher than usual revs (4,500) required for 3rd and 4th.Now I have no codes, and shifting seems normal. Is there a learning mode in the engine's computer when components are modified or replaced?Anyway, that part of the car is working fine, now I need to work on the parking brake! (can't you tell that the warranty has expired?)