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About Smart42

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    Kelowna BC

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  1. So, update on this thread: As I told you I managed to damage one of my nozzle nuts. Willys was kind enough to send me a spare, thanks again. At the same time I ordered a couple of nozzle nuts from Aliexpress; the only place where I could find them. This week they finally showed up.... Since one of the injectors had a small leak past the fire ring I took it out and tried the new nozzle nut. The fit and finish are as good as OEM; I cannot tell the difference. I think my leak may have been due to some carbon build up on the injector seat that I did not clean off sufficiently the first time. I found that a simple piece of PEX water line with a strip of an old T-shirt over the end was a good fit, its advantage over a wooden dowel is that you can spray carb cleaner down the PEX pipe. If someone needs a nozzle nut: I have a spare one.
  2. Ours are Peterson V124A sealed 2 1/2" marker lights. Originally designed as side markers for semi's. Walmart has them: Amazon: RVParts has them on clearance:
  3. For those wanting to know how the wiring and parking switch inside a wiper motor work: Wiper motor electrical explained
  4. So update: I removed the wiper motor today. I removed the front panels, disconnected the electric connector and wiper linkage on the arm from the motor. I could not get the nut on the arm off, otherwise I would have taken the arm of the motor shaft. The motor is held in place by 3 bolts. Space is at a premium and a geared flat wrench makes the job much easier. I removed the 2 screws holding the wiper motor bracket to give me a bit more room. With some effort I got the motor out. Opening the motor required drilling the peened aluminum pins out far enough to wiggle the cover plate loose. Inside you will see the worm drive from the motor itself driving a large plastic wheel with metal tracks. The inside cover has 3 electrical copper contact strips, similar to the ones seen in the video above at 1:45. In my motor the outside strip ( for the parking switch) was broken halfway and the broken part was jammed in the white plastic wheel. Since I did not have another motor handy I removed the broken strip and fabricated a replacement from a strip of aluminum soffit I had laying around. I was able to salvage the old copper contact point and peened this in the end of my home made strip. Put everything back together and had left enough of the aluminum pins securing the cover that I could secure the cover again. I was happy to find my wipers working properly again. I do not think my shade tree repair will survive for 14 years like the old one; but it allows me more time to find a replacement. Anyone with a spare front wiper motor they like to part with?
  5. Wondering if this is the problem:
  6. Thanks, but no. It is not the position of the wipers on the windshield. When I turn them off they do not return to their rest position. On many cars it could be a faulty wiper relay, but as far as I can tell the relay on the SAM only switches power on and off. Since the wipers do work they are getting power which, to me, indicates the relay is good. Since those things are soldered on to the SAM motherboard swapping them out quickly is not an option.
  7. Did you pull the cartridge out? The valve is normally closed, so I wonder how well it gets clean inside the cartridge? Agree with using it for injector tips; works great!
  8. My Smart has a new issue: when I turn the wipers to interval the wipers do a half swipe and stop mid windshield rather than returning to rest position. On slow and fast the wipers wipe normally, but when I switch them off they stop right where they are at that moment, not back to the normal rest position. My car has always been garaged and I live in a pretty dry area. I checked: Wiper linkages: all intact and I lube them regularly Wiper stems: get lubed regularly and move freely Electrical contacts on motor: all clean, no sign of corrosion Wiring: followed as far as I could, no issues seen Wiper stalk: disassembled, checked for corroded contact, none seen. cleaned contacts anyway with 1000 grit sandpaper. SAM unit: no sign of water ingress, all contacts clean, no bad solder joints or signs of overheating on the circuit boards. I tried to find what determines where the wipers are supposed to stop, but have not found it yet. I have a feeling it is in the wiper motor itself, but since they are a pain to get out I thought I ask the expert here if there is anything else I overlooked.
  9. First of all, we are Canadians. Trump is not our president and we did not vote for him. You are at a relatively safe distance; we have him next door... Secondly: who spat in your haggis this morning??
  10. BTW figured out what tool you need for complete disassembly of the inner workings of our injectors. The official version is a 10mm tamper proof Allen (hex) key; 10 mm between the flats and hollow in the middle. The poor man's alternative is a M6 coupling nut; these are also 10mm across the flats. Although I live in a metric country the local hardware stores do not stock them.
  11. I tested mine by removing the needle and spraying WD-40 through them, both before and after running them through my ultrasonic. Before I only got a good jet out of 3 of the 5 orifices, after the ultrasonic all ports were open again. So obviously the high pressure is not enough to keep them all open. Even my spouse noticed the difference in pick up of the car before and after.
  12. Well, Aliexpress thinks otherwise... nozzle opening cleaner With my old ones there was a significant difference between before and after running them through my ultrasonic cleaner.
  13. So having driven a bit more with my new nozzles: Engine starts a bit easier A bit more power than with the old cleaned nozzles (and a lot more than dirty nozzles) Scan gauge shows larger fuel flow on acceleration Less engine vibration and smoother idle. My guess is that the old nozzles had a bit more variation to them. For an engine with > 150K on it definitely worth considering changing the nozzles or at the very least run them through an ultrasonic cleaner.
  14. Big shoutout to Willys; I cracked a nut on one of my injectors and he was kind enough to send me a spare. It arrived today, I reassembled the injector, put it back in and my Smart is on the road again with brand new injector nozzles. First impression is a little bit more pep and less vibration. I did not take the injector apart any further than replacing the nozzle and removing the solenoid. I am trying to source a 6mm coupling nut as it should have an outside diameter of almost 10 mm between the flats. This would allow removal of the internal nut (straining screw) and get me to the injector valve and ball. A project for another day...