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About Smart42

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    Kelowna BC

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  1. Looking for a driver side mirror for a 2006 Smart Coupe Passion, even if it is just the glass.
  2. If it is freezing cold blocking air flow through the intercooler will also help to keep you warm. We had a discussion about this a few years ago; these cars do not have a means of heating the intake air like most other cars do.
  3. That was quick. Did you test to see if your glow plugs light up when you turn the key? Did you replace it with a new controller or another used one?
  4. Yes, both appear to work fine. Reported outside temp is more or less environment temp and coolant temp is +/- environment temp on start up and quickly rises as engine heats up.
  5. Thanks for the speedy reply and Merry Christmas to all of you Do we know if the ECU switches each glow plug individually or leaves it to glow plug controller? I find it interesting that I do not get a P0380 error code unless I pull the connector of the last operational plug. I wonder how the ECU determines that there is a problem with the glow plugs? I am not an expert in electronics but will use my Google Fu to see if I can figure out how to test the transistors. The problem that I see is that removing the top circuit board to get at the Mosfets will be a royal PIA.
  6. My alternator seems to be working fine; Scangauge shows voltage of 14 volts as soon as engine is running. Also, a bad alternator does not explain why 2 out of 3 glowplugs are not getting any power and the third works as designed.. Back on topic: does anyone has the exact wiring diagram for the glow plug relay? I was wondering if the SAM switches each glowplug individually. If that is the case the problem could still be in the SAM.
  7. My 2006 Smart with 130.000 km is having issues starting when it is below -5C. Glow plugs changed 2 years ago (NGK), brand new battery and no error codes on my Scangauge. I turn the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out and start the car. It cranks fine, but has a hard time igniting the diesel and when it does it runs a bit rough for the first 20 seconds. However, if I plug the block heater in for 1 hour or the engine is still warm it fires up without any hesitation. This made a fuel delivery issue less likely IMHO. I had also noticed that I was not getting any extra heat anymore from the auxillary heaters when I slid the temperature lever all the way to the right. Based on this behavior I suspected an issue with the glow relay even though I did not have the P0380 code. I had saved the old glow plugs and tested one with a battery and booster cables; it lit right up. My next step was to disconnect the glow plug lead from plug #3 and connect it to my test plug grounding it with a starter cable. I turned the key to position 2, the glow plug light came on and my test plug glowed bright red. I repeated the same procedure with plug #1 and #2 and got nothing, no heat whatsoever. I disconnected the connector from the glow plug relay on the right hand subframe and tested the glow plug leads for connectivity. They were all good. Based on these findings I believe my relay is defective. I removed the glow plug relay. This can be done from the engine bay if you have nimble hands. Disconnect the 2 connectors and use an E10 Torx bit for the 2 bolts securing the unit to the subframe. The factory has used blue Loctite on them so it takes a bit of effort. The glow plug leads are marked G1, G2, G3 and the +12V is a wide spade connector. This Bosch 0 281 003 021 relay has 4 Philips screws on the corners. Remove them and you can see the inside. It consists of a metal base plate with, what I believe, are Mosfet transisitors and a circuit board on top.The glow plug connector part has 3 Mosfets; I assume one per plug. Access to the Mosfets is difficult as it would require desoldering all the connections of the circuit board. My questions for the board: -1 Why do I not get a P0380 or other code even though 2 glow plugs are not getting power? -2 Do you agree that the relay is defective or are there any other parts I need to rule out? -3 Is it possible to test the Mosfets without desoldering them from the circuit board? -4 Has anyone ever successfully replaced faulty Mosfets on this relay? -5 Any leads for a reasonably priced new relay?
  8. That is why I plan to do my own. Would like to have a set of lowering bolts, but was quoted $ 129 for 4 bolts.
  9. Nope, total cooling capacity should not be affected. Nowadays defetive thermostats stay open.
  10. You get about the same numbers as I do in mine. I wonder if our thermostats have failed. Mine has a Tolsen restrictor installed and this did give me faster heat in the cabin, but I still cannot get it up to the 3d blob, unless it is the hot Okanagan summer.
  11. See:
  12. I would think the sensor is bad; still accurate at the low end, but erroneous at higher temp ranges. If however this is your true IAT I'd be interested to know if you ever had EGR problems.My theory is that the low IAT and clogged up EGR valves are linked. A low IAT will lead to poor combustion, leaving some of the fuel unburned. When the EGR mixes hot exhaust gas that still has some fuel in it with icecold inlet air things precipetate and gum up the works.
  13. I used a piece of plastic used on top of a skid (pallet in the UK?). Similar stuff is used for those foldable cutting boards that you can find in household and cooking supply stores. With this material there is no need to drop the engine. Simply unclip the top clip of the fan holder, wiggle the plastic sheet in and you're done. The simplest solution though is to unclip the power supply to the IC fan and stuff foam or similar stuff between the fan blades. The car runs fine with the IC fan unplugged and since our goal is to decrease the amount of cooling in the IC you do not want the fan to run anyway.
  14. A simpler solution is to open the engine cover, unclip the IC fan and stuff bubble wrap, foam or something similar on top of the IC between the fan blades. This only takes a few minutes and has the same effect, but avoids laying on the cold floor...
  15. Are you referring to the whole IC cradle or just the little scoop that sticks out under the car? The latter can be removed/ reattached in seconds.In my opinion the ideal solution is a temperature controlled flap that bypasses the IC when the air out of the turbo is below 25 degrees and starts routing it through the IC when the temperature is higher.