Smart42

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About Smart42

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    Kelowna BC

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  1. First of all, we are Canadians. Trump is not our president and we did not vote for him. You are at a relatively safe distance; we have him next door... Secondly: who spat in your haggis this morning??
  2. BTW figured out what tool you need for complete disassembly of the inner workings of our injectors. The official version is a 10mm tamper proof Allen (hex) key; 10 mm between the flats and hollow in the middle. The poor man's alternative is a M6 coupling nut; these are also 10mm across the flats. Although I live in a metric country the local hardware stores do not stock them.
  3. I tested mine by removing the needle and spraying WD-40 through them, both before and after running them through my ultrasonic. Before I only got a good jet out of 3 of the 5 orifices, after the ultrasonic all ports were open again. So obviously the high pressure is not enough to keep them all open. Even my spouse noticed the difference in pick up of the car before and after.
  4. Well, Aliexpress thinks otherwise... nozzle opening cleaner With my old ones there was a significant difference between before and after running them through my ultrasonic cleaner.
  5. So having driven a bit more with my new nozzles: Engine starts a bit easier A bit more power than with the old cleaned nozzles (and a lot more than dirty nozzles) Scan gauge shows larger fuel flow on acceleration Less engine vibration and smoother idle. My guess is that the old nozzles had a bit more variation to them. For an engine with > 150K on it definitely worth considering changing the nozzles or at the very least run them through an ultrasonic cleaner.
  6. Big shoutout to Willys; I cracked a nut on one of my injectors and he was kind enough to send me a spare. It arrived today, I reassembled the injector, put it back in and my Smart is on the road again with brand new injector nozzles. First impression is a little bit more pep and less vibration. I did not take the injector apart any further than replacing the nozzle and removing the solenoid. I am trying to source a 6mm coupling nut as it should have an outside diameter of almost 10 mm between the flats. This would allow removal of the internal nut (straining screw) and get me to the injector valve and ball. A project for another day...
  7. I appreciate the effort and hope you feel better soon.
  8. I was thinking it would get me to the ball valve. If there is one part where leaks would cause serious issues that would be it. Looks like the Russian guy was using an ordinary coupling nut with perhaps part of the internal thread drilled out. Next time I am at the hardware store I will bring a caliper and measure a few of them to see if I can find one that fits. Does not look over complicated, but you gotta make sure you do not loose that tiny little ball...
  9. Number 11 in this diagram: Parts diagram for 0445110023 injector
  10. What did you use to get the internal hexagon nut out? Looks like I need something that is 10mm between the flats and hollow in the middle.
  11. There is a lot of different sizes of bearings. I was hoping someone knew the exact size so I have them ready.
  12. I got the free wheeling pulley. How difficult is it to get the old pulley off; any special tools needed? Also: while I have the alternator out I am considering cleaning it out and treating it to new bearings. Does anybody have the specs or part # for the alternator bearings?
  13. My Google Fu runs strong today: Here is a YouTube video detailing why there are 2 different shims, how to measure and choose the appropriate size.