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About houseofdiesel

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  1. Plug it in, essential for long life. Add a stick on oil pan heater too (under $100). You could also add a real coolant heater, 750-1500 watts, then it will start at operating temp after an hour (this is very nice!). Again under $100 and available at cdn tire. Start it, let it idle while you buckle up and turn the lights and radio on, run it a minute. Then SLOWLY take off (the hardest part on these cars is take off, it requires near 100% load). Short shift and use very little throttle until you start getting blobs on the temp gauge, I run mine at 1400-1600 when cold. Never use the turbo when cold, the thermal expansion is too great. Try not to use the heater, crack the windows a cm to vent the moisture. This for long life, not 100k but a million (if possible). Being gentle on a cold engine is essential to keep it going "forever"
  2. I have run in summer all four wheels 145's. It handles fine, I have tested it out pretty hard in cornering and on gravel roads. It is a chore on heavy cross wind days, it moves more. Fuel economy and taking off is much improved. I did not have any traction control/ESP/ABS issues. The car feels less planted, I was hoping for less understeer but not the case. My car is not exposed to salt, summer driven only and very low mileage (under 40k). 2006 cdi cabrio. I happen to have about 16 wheels and tires, kijiji is great when things are cheap so experimenting all the time. I never have to buy new tires...
  3. promo code is tenoff on kijiji advertising.
  4. Send out the injectors for a fuel quantity test. Very common on non running common rail engines for the injectors to only be delivering half the requested fuel (not enough to start). Check the crank sensor (resistance). Check compression. Check for power to the fuel system/injectors (not easily done, it is low voltage and high frequency, test light is not going to work).
  5. 155/60/15 Continental TS800, as new (were mounted but not driven) 175/55/15 Toyo Observe GSI used lightly one winter, still looks new. No rims just tires $200 set Tires are date coded 2011 and 2012, stored inside and in perfect condition. If you want loose 450 steel wheels add $150 set. Pics as soon as I can resize them to fit, located in Kemptville Ontario, delivery to Ottawa region not a problem.
  6. Sounds like SAM issues, do a bit of research on the SAM connector issues (corrosion problems). It could also be a lack of knowledge on the mechanics side. Are you going to a known smart specialist or dealer? Just because a part is sold to you as being "new" doesn't mean it is quality, some rebuilt alternators are very questionable in quality. There are many things that could cause these issues, and you suggest the negative battery cable is corroded points to a poor mechanic, it is a $10 part to replace that cable and clean the contacts, one should do that before replacing any other parts. Is the belt tight on the alternator? Error codes using which kind of scan tool? OBD2 ones are not "good enough" to find the codes in a smart, it will find major ones but not all of them, the factory software is needed for proper diagnostics.
  7. For me personally, just having a clutch pedal would be enough, and still electronic shifting. I am not after faster shifts, but control off the line and taking it easier on the engine (my driveway is sloped, and it works hard to move when cold) plus no confusion about which gear it is really in when in stop and go. I don't think you will find too many buyers for a kit that requires transmission removal and floor cutting plus a high cost, the cars are too old and owners too cheap. Maybe poll people what they think is reasonable for a kit (cost wise), you might get some good feedback and an idea of how small the budget will be. Some owners here will be willing, but most in the real world (based on working on them in professional shop) don't care to spend any money on them. I don't think it is unreasonable to have to remove the transmission to install parts like a clutch slave (think that one is an awesome idea, doing away with weak parts).
  8. Don't leave that hose unplugged and off the wastegate, it is doing harm by overboosting. You can fix it carefully by epoxy, or find a blown turbo and use the wastegate off it, but don't run without it. If the exhaust ever fails (no restriction or back pressure on the turbo-which they do fail and break off at the manifold elbow) your turbo will explode shortly after, it will hit 40-50lbs of boost unrestricted and keep going until it fails. Not worth the risk!
  9. Before you order the center cartridge be sure the manifold has enough left to work with it, most of them are now rusted so badly it isn't possible to even work on it, they flake away and cannot reattach the turbo, I would strongly recommend you have a core before you start. I wouldn't worry too much about the turbo blowing up, the path to the engine is far enough to avoid parts going inside when it happens. Considering how much a complete turbo is here in Canada, probably worth the risk of trying it.
  10. I would also mention Shell in the law suit that this will bring, and provide all fuel filling receipts if possible so neither company can dodge the bullet, blame fuel they are involved, blame the car maker they are involved too. Problem with these cases is the dealer not willing to go to bat and be professional, they should. I keep a folder with every fueling bill for this situation and stick with one station as much as possible (Petro Can in my case, best diesel in my area). It will have NO impact on the value of the car if it is bought back, this is a court case settlement and he can provide all maintenance receipts to prove it was not neglect...
  11. It is real, and he used a Grandstyle Cabrio. I used to work there and service that car on occasion. I haven't returned to see the conversion in person yet...I am thinking it is slow and hard to stop!
  12. Whay is silly is all it takes is a tow truck with some graphics, the latest designs can scope a car in a minute with a swing in wheel lift-no leaving the cab! Repossessors theft will never go away no matter what they do to prevent it. Onstar is the best one (or any gps tracking)
  13. It happens. I once parted out a VW tdi and the turbo was rusted in half, the intake still attached to the engine, the turbine side fell off with the downpipe. It isn't just salt, I believe heat cycling aids the process. I have never had a problem with my own vehicles but I keep them clean and don't over work them. A few of the used smart turbos I have come across were well rusted to the point the exhaust manifold looked thin, engine location is the main reason. It is going to be more and more common as materials get cheaper and salt is applied more often to roads...
  14. You will fry the alternator really fast on the car. Alternators are not designed to supply power at idle speed, they will create too much heat and only put out around 10-20 amps at 14V. You need a fast idle for this work. Second the engine in the car will not like idling forever, again a fast idle is necessary to keep things good and clean. Kijiji is your friend, good quality generators (honda) are under $1000 used/working for 3000-5000 watt. Cheap off shore ones are really cheap, $200-300 for same size (the price of a power inverter). These are fine for most household uses. Sensitive ones are more money and less powerful but also really quiet, again under $500 used but usually in the 2000 watt range but clean power for charging phones, running laptops and such (what most consider an essential need these days). I have found some cheap diesel generators over the years, they do come up but are loud and fussy to get going (electric start is a must!) it'll yank your arm off trying with the pull cord! The engines are fine, the parts hard to get as there were so many different versions for the generator side (each plant in China had their own idea...). Usually $500 gets a 5000-6000 watt one, anything more and they are over priced. Again, these are loud units, better off with gas ones or even propane ones for most people.