houseofdiesel

Regular Members
  • Content count

    579
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About houseofdiesel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ottawa

Recent Profile Visitors

519 profile views
  1. I have hoarded for the last few years... Brand new dealership stock that I got out of Peterborough when the dealership changed hands about $4000 worth of inventory the bulk of it fasteners and small parts. I do have a list of these parts with numbers. Lots of used parts from stripping a few Cabrios at the yards, roofs, lights, panels, powertrains, Still a complete cabriolet parts car white on black on hand. Lots of aftermarket parts from various sources, filters, bearings, brakes, etc Many factory accessories like cup holders, Around 20 steel wheels, various used tires-Conti front snows, Conti summers, Bridgestone summers mostly 2006 date codes on tires. I am fixing up 2 coupes but have lots of excess, I get to my shop once a week if you are looking for something. I can ship but generally not quick about it too much going on! Always looking for parts cars and parts, will come clean out the garage or shed Ontario-Quebec. Shop is located just outside Perth in eastern Ontario, meeting up in Ottawa region no problem, Montreal/Sherbrooke/Drummondville often. Toronto less often.
  2. $500 tops. They have little scrap value in weight, scrap is way down since the summer (was $260 a tonne, now under $150). Very very few people have the time to bother with ten year old cars and parts cars so the market has really tanked for used cars of any kind. I just bought 6 cars in an estate and had to have most of them appraised as most were over 20 years old (Ontario law) two were smart 450 coupes, appraiser thought $500 was generous on value for non running cars (one has 60k one 130k) sitting a couple years. Seller was happy to find a buyer...there is a very small market. Get a socket on the crank bolt and turn the engine over, maybe cut the serpentine belt off first...it should turn then. Selling used parts is also a major hassle lots of initial interest and questions yet few follow through. I have sold at swap meets and ebay, kijiji and such for 25 years. It is not easy to count on that to recoup costs, more a bonus if you can sell anything at all. I am stock piling smarts, 4 now plus cleaning out garage collections and dealership stock. I like em, have the time and space to store inside. They are so easy to store and work on vs other cars but I do it for me not thinking of a business case.
  3. Must be my memory that is wrong. I know I sourced some from the USA which generally means 451 application.
  4. Airbag is already deployed....not worried about that! Just want the paddle wheel and figure it later it is too cheap to pass. I saw the hole for the screw will try it out. Thank you for all the tips So not a large center nut....interesting.
  5. Front brake pads are the same 2005-2015. Rotors are likely a match. Front wheel bearings are the same. Rears are different.
  6. Found a paddle shifter wheel in the scrap yard but not obvious how to remove it. Evilution site shows some aspects with the wheel off but not on the car...no way those bolts can be removed on the car? For the airbag that is? Most air bags are clipped on and special tools or allen bolts to get them off (european makes). Or is the airbag not removed to get the wheel off?
  7. Plug it in, essential for long life. Add a stick on oil pan heater too (under $100). You could also add a real coolant heater, 750-1500 watts, then it will start at operating temp after an hour (this is very nice!). Again under $100 and available at cdn tire. Start it, let it idle while you buckle up and turn the lights and radio on, run it a minute. Then SLOWLY take off (the hardest part on these cars is take off, it requires near 100% load). Short shift and use very little throttle until you start getting blobs on the temp gauge, I run mine at 1400-1600 when cold. Never use the turbo when cold, the thermal expansion is too great. Try not to use the heater, crack the windows a cm to vent the moisture. This for long life, not 100k but a million (if possible). Being gentle on a cold engine is essential to keep it going "forever"
  8. I have run in summer all four wheels 145's. It handles fine, I have tested it out pretty hard in cornering and on gravel roads. It is a chore on heavy cross wind days, it moves more. Fuel economy and taking off is much improved. I did not have any traction control/ESP/ABS issues. The car feels less planted, I was hoping for less understeer but not the case. My car is not exposed to salt, summer driven only and very low mileage (under 40k). 2006 cdi cabrio. I happen to have about 16 wheels and tires, kijiji is great when things are cheap so experimenting all the time. I never have to buy new tires...
  9. promo code is tenoff on kijiji advertising.
  10. Send out the injectors for a fuel quantity test. Very common on non running common rail engines for the injectors to only be delivering half the requested fuel (not enough to start). Check the crank sensor (resistance). Check compression. Check for power to the fuel system/injectors (not easily done, it is low voltage and high frequency, test light is not going to work).
  11. 155/60/15 Continental TS800, as new (were mounted but not driven) 175/55/15 Toyo Observe GSI used lightly one winter, still looks new. No rims just tires $200 set Tires are date coded 2011 and 2012, stored inside and in perfect condition. If you want loose 450 steel wheels add $150 set. Pics as soon as I can resize them to fit, located in Kemptville Ontario, delivery to Ottawa region not a problem.
  12. Sounds like SAM issues, do a bit of research on the SAM connector issues (corrosion problems). It could also be a lack of knowledge on the mechanics side. Are you going to a known smart specialist or dealer? Just because a part is sold to you as being "new" doesn't mean it is quality, some rebuilt alternators are very questionable in quality. There are many things that could cause these issues, and you suggest the negative battery cable is corroded points to a poor mechanic, it is a $10 part to replace that cable and clean the contacts, one should do that before replacing any other parts. Is the belt tight on the alternator? Error codes using which kind of scan tool? OBD2 ones are not "good enough" to find the codes in a smart, it will find major ones but not all of them, the factory software is needed for proper diagnostics.
  13. For me personally, just having a clutch pedal would be enough, and still electronic shifting. I am not after faster shifts, but control off the line and taking it easier on the engine (my driveway is sloped, and it works hard to move when cold) plus no confusion about which gear it is really in when in stop and go. I don't think you will find too many buyers for a kit that requires transmission removal and floor cutting plus a high cost, the cars are too old and owners too cheap. Maybe poll people what they think is reasonable for a kit (cost wise), you might get some good feedback and an idea of how small the budget will be. Some owners here will be willing, but most in the real world (based on working on them in professional shop) don't care to spend any money on them. I don't think it is unreasonable to have to remove the transmission to install parts like a clutch slave (think that one is an awesome idea, doing away with weak parts).
  14. Don't leave that hose unplugged and off the wastegate, it is doing harm by overboosting. You can fix it carefully by epoxy, or find a blown turbo and use the wastegate off it, but don't run without it. If the exhaust ever fails (no restriction or back pressure on the turbo-which they do fail and break off at the manifold elbow) your turbo will explode shortly after, it will hit 40-50lbs of boost unrestricted and keep going until it fails. Not worth the risk!