houseofdiesel

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Everything posted by houseofdiesel

  1. I just realized 600kms on my last tank, without the scanguage hooked up and not really trying terribly hard, it has been windy and rainy the last week or so around Ottawa so I know I can do MUCH better. Just wondering how many clear the 600 mark on every tank of fuel? I have always been in the 500 range, taking 17-18L to fill, I never see 20L on a fill yet, I live far away from Sunoco Gold so when I am near the pump I fill up. The car only has 15000kms to date, 06 Cabrio Pure. I usually have the top/windows down unless it is raining. I have yet to match my VW Passat's record of 3L/100km but I don't think the engine is "worn in" enough yet to see the low rpms that takes. Greg
  2. So I have my dash out, seats out etc and now I am scratching my head...the 4" dash speakers are three screw jobs (triangle bolt pattern), where as every replacment speaker is four screw mount (square). The radio is only wired for two speakers at the moment, however there are four empty blanks in the wiring harness, can I just add terminals and have two more speakers? I have a Pioneer amp to install probably under the seat and run some speakers in the back somewhere. I am also looking at Kicker PT8 or HS8 small powered subs to add some bass. Not sure how this is going to work out yet...since there are no RCA jacks on the stereo I might run out of options fast.My goal is to actually hear the music at highway speeds and not just distortion or wind. Anyone have upgrade opinions?
  3. Cool that is a recent development as previously Bosch offered no single parts just complete units. This was after extensive research and consulting with an authorized service center. Anyone care to share a Bosch part number?
  4. There are no parts. Period end of story. Bosch only offers complete injectors. If you manage to find parts they will be copies and not original Bosch. Might work, might fail shortly or not. Testing them is import and most Bosch diesel rebuiders can-flow is what is important they usually do not deliver enough fuel quantity causing hard starting or misfires. There are products out there you can run in the fuel to help before spending $2000 on a set of injectors. Hot shot diesel extreme works well available on amazon really reduces smoke issues. Liqui Moly diesel purge is a great cleaner and quiets things down.
  5. I have hoarded for the last few years... Brand new dealership stock that I got out of Peterborough when the dealership changed hands about $4000 worth of inventory the bulk of it fasteners and small parts. I do have a list of these parts with numbers. Lots of used parts from stripping a few Cabrios at the yards, roofs, lights, panels, powertrains, Still a complete cabriolet parts car white on black on hand. Lots of aftermarket parts from various sources, filters, bearings, brakes, etc Many factory accessories like cup holders, Around 20 steel wheels, various used tires-Conti front snows, Conti summers, Bridgestone summers mostly 2006 date codes on tires. I am fixing up 2 coupes but have lots of excess, I get to my shop once a week if you are looking for something. I can ship but generally not quick about it too much going on! Always looking for parts cars and parts, will come clean out the garage or shed Ontario-Quebec. Shop is located just outside Perth in eastern Ontario, meeting up in Ottawa region no problem, Montreal/Sherbrooke/Drummondville often. Toronto less often.
  6. $500 tops. They have little scrap value in weight, scrap is way down since the summer (was $260 a tonne, now under $150). Very very few people have the time to bother with ten year old cars and parts cars so the market has really tanked for used cars of any kind. I just bought 6 cars in an estate and had to have most of them appraised as most were over 20 years old (Ontario law) two were smart 450 coupes, appraiser thought $500 was generous on value for non running cars (one has 60k one 130k) sitting a couple years. Seller was happy to find a buyer...there is a very small market. Get a socket on the crank bolt and turn the engine over, maybe cut the serpentine belt off first...it should turn then. Selling used parts is also a major hassle lots of initial interest and questions yet few follow through. I have sold at swap meets and ebay, kijiji and such for 25 years. It is not easy to count on that to recoup costs, more a bonus if you can sell anything at all. I am stock piling smarts, 4 now plus cleaning out garage collections and dealership stock. I like em, have the time and space to store inside. They are so easy to store and work on vs other cars but I do it for me not thinking of a business case.
  7. Found a paddle shifter wheel in the scrap yard but not obvious how to remove it. Evilution site shows some aspects with the wheel off but not on the car...no way those bolts can be removed on the car? For the airbag that is? Most air bags are clipped on and special tools or allen bolts to get them off (european makes). Or is the airbag not removed to get the wheel off?
  8. Must be my memory that is wrong. I know I sourced some from the USA which generally means 451 application.
  9. Airbag is already deployed....not worried about that! Just want the paddle wheel and figure it later it is too cheap to pass. I saw the hole for the screw will try it out. Thank you for all the tips So not a large center nut....interesting.
  10. Front brake pads are the same 2005-2015. Rotors are likely a match. Front wheel bearings are the same. Rears are different.
  11. Plug it in, essential for long life. Add a stick on oil pan heater too (under $100). You could also add a real coolant heater, 750-1500 watts, then it will start at operating temp after an hour (this is very nice!). Again under $100 and available at cdn tire. Start it, let it idle while you buckle up and turn the lights and radio on, run it a minute. Then SLOWLY take off (the hardest part on these cars is take off, it requires near 100% load). Short shift and use very little throttle until you start getting blobs on the temp gauge, I run mine at 1400-1600 when cold. Never use the turbo when cold, the thermal expansion is too great. Try not to use the heater, crack the windows a cm to vent the moisture. This for long life, not 100k but a million (if possible). Being gentle on a cold engine is essential to keep it going "forever"
  12. I have run in summer all four wheels 145's. It handles fine, I have tested it out pretty hard in cornering and on gravel roads. It is a chore on heavy cross wind days, it moves more. Fuel economy and taking off is much improved. I did not have any traction control/ESP/ABS issues. The car feels less planted, I was hoping for less understeer but not the case. My car is not exposed to salt, summer driven only and very low mileage (under 40k). 2006 cdi cabrio. I happen to have about 16 wheels and tires, kijiji is great when things are cheap so experimenting all the time. I never have to buy new tires...
  13. promo code is tenoff on kijiji advertising.
  14. Send out the injectors for a fuel quantity test. Very common on non running common rail engines for the injectors to only be delivering half the requested fuel (not enough to start). Check the crank sensor (resistance). Check compression. Check for power to the fuel system/injectors (not easily done, it is low voltage and high frequency, test light is not going to work).
  15. 155/60/15 Continental TS800, as new (were mounted but not driven) 175/55/15 Toyo Observe GSI used lightly one winter, still looks new. No rims just tires $200 set Tires are date coded 2011 and 2012, stored inside and in perfect condition. If you want loose 450 steel wheels add $150 set. Pics as soon as I can resize them to fit, located in Kemptville Ontario, delivery to Ottawa region not a problem.
  16. Sounds like SAM issues, do a bit of research on the SAM connector issues (corrosion problems). It could also be a lack of knowledge on the mechanics side. Are you going to a known smart specialist or dealer? Just because a part is sold to you as being "new" doesn't mean it is quality, some rebuilt alternators are very questionable in quality. There are many things that could cause these issues, and you suggest the negative battery cable is corroded points to a poor mechanic, it is a $10 part to replace that cable and clean the contacts, one should do that before replacing any other parts. Is the belt tight on the alternator? Error codes using which kind of scan tool? OBD2 ones are not "good enough" to find the codes in a smart, it will find major ones but not all of them, the factory software is needed for proper diagnostics.
  17. For me personally, just having a clutch pedal would be enough, and still electronic shifting. I am not after faster shifts, but control off the line and taking it easier on the engine (my driveway is sloped, and it works hard to move when cold) plus no confusion about which gear it is really in when in stop and go. I don't think you will find too many buyers for a kit that requires transmission removal and floor cutting plus a high cost, the cars are too old and owners too cheap. Maybe poll people what they think is reasonable for a kit (cost wise), you might get some good feedback and an idea of how small the budget will be. Some owners here will be willing, but most in the real world (based on working on them in professional shop) don't care to spend any money on them. I don't think it is unreasonable to have to remove the transmission to install parts like a clutch slave (think that one is an awesome idea, doing away with weak parts).
  18. Don't leave that hose unplugged and off the wastegate, it is doing harm by overboosting. You can fix it carefully by epoxy, or find a blown turbo and use the wastegate off it, but don't run without it. If the exhaust ever fails (no restriction or back pressure on the turbo-which they do fail and break off at the manifold elbow) your turbo will explode shortly after, it will hit 40-50lbs of boost unrestricted and keep going until it fails. Not worth the risk!
  19. Before you order the center cartridge be sure the manifold has enough left to work with it, most of them are now rusted so badly it isn't possible to even work on it, they flake away and cannot reattach the turbo, I would strongly recommend you have a core before you start. I wouldn't worry too much about the turbo blowing up, the path to the engine is far enough to avoid parts going inside when it happens. Considering how much a complete turbo is here in Canada, probably worth the risk of trying it.
  20. I would also mention Shell in the law suit that this will bring, and provide all fuel filling receipts if possible so neither company can dodge the bullet, blame fuel they are involved, blame the car maker they are involved too. Problem with these cases is the dealer not willing to go to bat and be professional, they should. I keep a folder with every fueling bill for this situation and stick with one station as much as possible (Petro Can in my case, best diesel in my area). It will have NO impact on the value of the car if it is bought back, this is a court case settlement and he can provide all maintenance receipts to prove it was not neglect...
  21. It is real, and he used a Grandstyle Cabrio. I used to work there and service that car on occasion. I haven't returned to see the conversion in person yet...I am thinking it is slow and hard to stop!
  22. Whay is silly is all it takes is a tow truck with some graphics, the latest designs can scope a car in a minute with a swing in wheel lift-no leaving the cab! Repossessors choice...car theft will never go away no matter what they do to prevent it. Onstar is the best one (or any gps tracking)
  23. It happens. I once parted out a VW tdi and the turbo was rusted in half, the intake still attached to the engine, the turbine side fell off with the downpipe. It isn't just salt, I believe heat cycling aids the process. I have never had a problem with my own vehicles but I keep them clean and don't over work them. A few of the used smart turbos I have come across were well rusted to the point the exhaust manifold looked thin, engine location is the main reason. It is going to be more and more common as materials get cheaper and salt is applied more often to roads...
  24. You will fry the alternator really fast on the car. Alternators are not designed to supply power at idle speed, they will create too much heat and only put out around 10-20 amps at 14V. You need a fast idle for this work. Second the engine in the car will not like idling forever, again a fast idle is necessary to keep things good and clean. Kijiji is your friend, good quality generators (honda) are under $1000 used/working for 3000-5000 watt. Cheap off shore ones are really cheap, $200-300 for same size (the price of a power inverter). These are fine for most household uses. Sensitive ones are more money and less powerful but also really quiet, again under $500 used but usually in the 2000 watt range but clean power for charging phones, running laptops and such (what most consider an essential need these days). I have found some cheap diesel generators over the years, they do come up but are loud and fussy to get going (electric start is a must!) it'll yank your arm off trying with the pull cord! The engines are fine, the parts hard to get as there were so many different versions for the generator side (each plant in China had their own idea...). Usually $500 gets a 5000-6000 watt one, anything more and they are over priced. Again, these are loud units, better off with gas ones or even propane ones for most people.