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About MikeT

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    random diesel smart guy
  • Birthday 01/01/1912

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  • Location
    Ladysmith, Vancouver Island, BC CDN

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  1. I've ordered and received tons of stuff from Europe for my car after March and it has arrived faster than usual, even the stuff going by surface.
  2. Today I reassembled the hydraulic part od the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump. Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part. The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft! The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016. Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized! Anyway, all was not lost... ...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect. All it needed was a thorough cleaning. Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together.... And it's together. I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good. I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.
  3. Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate. Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long. Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth! Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.
  4. Hi! Almost local to us.....
  5. The 40 is better at high temperatures.
  6. Dismantling of the AEG/KF fuel lift pump. A little bit of electrical tape over the motor's drive pinion facilitated the armature's extraction from the pump body without in any way damaging the original grease seal, which is still supple. So I will leave it in place and use the same technique to re-insert the pinion through this seal. The freed armature. Making up some different sized slotted washers in the garage made short work of extracting the tiny drive pinion and nearly as tiny bearings. Armature mounted on a drill in a vise so I could polish the commutator/slip ring with fine emery cloth. Comparison between the armature of my car (4598609) on the right and that of a scrapped Canadian Cabriolet (6800519) on the left. 4598609 has done 83,000 miles. I bought the entire drivetrain from 6800519 in 1982, and at least the electric motor seems to show the traces of more like 200.000 miles...
  7. gt300 body kit

    If you're going to get a kit for the 451, the BRABUS Ultimate kit is the best-looking: https://www.topspeed.com/cars/brabus/brabus-ultimate-112-smart-fortwo-ar43216.html Flying Tiger has these kits, but they're not cheap.
  8. Dashboard clips covered with vinyl. Passenger side: Driver's side. It was a pretty decent effort, I am pleased with the result.
  9. Saturday I'm going to rebuild the AEG/KF fuel lift pump with a kit supplied by my buddy Peter van Deukeren from the Netherlands. The tiny bearings: The shaft seal: The kit: My two AEG PLF 5 pumps: And today, because I couldn't find the original clips for the dash pad, I made these out of 1mm thick spare rocker panel/sill material. They now have to be covered with a thin layer of black vinyl. They join the top of the soft dashboard pad with the soft A-pillar trims. Each one has been shaped by hand to fit each side very well.
  10. Mounted the glovebox on Saturday. Sunday I cleaned and sorted all my nuts and bolts into the proper sizes.
  11. Drilled 3 holes in the panels to mount the new carpet in the front driver's side. The fourth hole was already there above the accelerator pedal. Also mounted the new speedometer cable and the accelerator cable. The driver's seat was a bit of a bear to install because the captive bolts in the bodyshell were not long enough to penetrate the new (thicker) seat runners and so I had to knock it out and put a bolt and (blind) nut inside one. The interior is now done apart from the transmission tunnel, which is still naked because I have to install the C3 gearbox and its Nardi floor shifter before final trimming. That'll be a while then.
  12. Won't be sold here.....but it's mildly interesting.
  13. The underlay for the rear transmission tunnel was installed along with the carpet, the rear floor carpets.... and then the passenger seat. My wife Sandy tried out the seat for height and comfort.
  14. The engine is totally apart now, as noted. The cam has bad wear so I am trying to source a new one from Le Club 404's stock. The new head and piston/sleeve kit are in the two cardboard boxes. Today, after cleaning off the engine block and moving it to where you see it above, I made 10 spacers for the carpet snaps. These space the carpet appropriately for the thickness of the undelay, so they're not puckered. Original Peugeot clips used for the visible ones. The rest are virtually the same.
  15. And today, the naughty....err....dirty bits.... Removal of crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, liners... Summary: - Crankshaft journals looks more or less OK: 0.3 mm should do. - The upper (compression, I presume) rings were broken on all 4 pistons (!!) - Lifters and peak of the cams on cylinder 4 were heavily worn (oddly, the other were OK) - Sleeves were not too rusty in the water jacket area and the block where the seals mate is perfect. - There was a lot of very thick sediment deposited in the lower sides of cylinders 1 and 2, especially by the block drain hole on #1. I have new pistons, sleeves etc; however I could use a new cam or maybe get a regrind. Need new lifters of course.