MikeT

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Posts posted by MikeT


  1. Today I reassembled the hydraulic part od the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump.

    Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part.  The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft!  The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016.  Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized!  Anyway, all was not lost...

    ...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect.  All it needed was a thorough cleaning.
    AEG-comparison.jpg

    Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together....
    AEG-hydraulic-open.jpg

    And it's together.  I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good.  I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.
    AEG-assembled.jpg


  2. Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate.  Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long.  Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth!

    AEG-electrical-part-rebuilt-and-tested.j

    Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.


  3. Dismantling of the AEG/KF fuel lift pump.

    A little bit of electrical tape over the motor's drive pinion facilitated the armature's extraction from the pump body without in any way damaging the original grease seal, which is still supple.  So I will leave it in place and use the same technique to re-insert the pinion through this seal.
    Grease-seal-AEG.jpg

    The freed armature.
    IMG-6262.jpg

    Making up some different sized slotted washers in the garage made short work of extracting the tiny drive pinion and nearly as tiny bearings.
    IMG-6265.jpg

    Armature mounted on a drill in a vise so I could polish the commutator/slip ring with fine emery cloth.
    IMG-6267.jpg

    Comparison between the armature of my car (4598609) on the right and that of a scrapped Canadian Cabriolet (6800519) on the left. 4598609 has done 83,000 miles.  I bought the entire drivetrain from 6800519 in 1982, and at least the electric motor seems to show the traces of more like 200.000 miles...
    IMG-6268.jpg


  4. Saturday I'm going to rebuild the AEG/KF fuel lift pump with a kit supplied by my buddy Peter van Deukeren from the Netherlands.

    The tiny bearings:


    AEG-Pump-bearings.jpg

     

    The shaft seal:
    Seal-for-AEG-pump.jpg

     

    The kit:
    Peter-s-AEG-rebuild-kit.jpg

     

    My two AEG PLF 5 pumps:
    AEG-fuel-pumps.jpg


    And today, because I couldn't find the original clips for the dash pad, I made these out of 1mm thick spare rocker panel/sill material. They now have to be covered with a thin layer of black vinyl. They join the top of the soft dashboard pad with the soft A-pillar trims. Each one has been shaped by hand to fit each side very well.

    Dash-clip-replicas.jpg

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  5. Drilled 3 holes in the panels to mount the new carpet in the front driver's side.  The fourth hole was already there above the accelerator pedal.  

    Driver-s-side-carpet.jpg

     

    Also mounted the new speedometer cable and the accelerator cable.  The driver's seat was a bit of a bear to install because the captive bolts in the bodyshell were not long enough to penetrate the new (thicker) seat runners and so I had to knock it out and put a bolt and (blind) nut inside one.  

    Driver-s-seat-in.jpg

     

    The interior is now done apart from the transmission tunnel, which is still naked because I have to install the C3 gearbox and its Nardi floor shifter before final trimming. That'll be a while then.

    Interior-done.jpg

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  6. The engine is totally apart now, as noted.  The cam has bad wear so I am trying to source a new one from Le Club 404's stock.  The new head and piston/sleeve kit are in the two cardboard boxes.
    Engine-disassembled.jpg
     
    Today, after cleaning off the engine block and moving it to where you see it above, I made 10 spacers for the carpet snaps.  These space the carpet appropriately for the thickness of the undelay, so they're not puckered.
    Carpet-Passenger-Floor.jpg
     
    Original Peugeot clips used for the visible ones. The rest are virtually the same. 
    Carpet-Clip-1.jpg
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  7. And today, the naughty....err....dirty bits....

    Removal of crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, liners...

    Summary: 

    - Crankshaft journals looks more or less OK: 0.3 mm should do.
    - The upper (compression, I presume) rings were broken on all 4 pistons (!!)
    - Lifters and peak of the cams on cylinder 4 were heavily worn (oddly, the other were OK)
    - Sleeves were not too rusty in the water jacket area and the block where the seals mate is perfect.
    - There was a lot of very thick sediment deposited in the lower sides of cylinders 1 and 2, especially by the block drain hole on #1.

    I have new pistons, sleeves etc; however I could use a new cam or maybe get a regrind.  Need new lifters of course.

    Old-Pistons-and-broken-rings.jpgOld-Cam-and-lifter.jpgOld-Liners.jpgempty-block-2.jpgEmpty-block.jpg

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  8. We found the A&W one in particular to be cheesy to the point of irritation - it was our daughter who pointed this out first.

     

    Yup, marketers milking the emotions of people.  Better to donate the money spent on the ads to medical serivces.


  9. Still working...from home.  Waiting for the golden handshake that will never come:lol:

     

    Rear parcel shelf and leather rear bench installed.  For the moment there will be no speakers, because my 1981 Blaupunkts are dead.

    Rear-Seat-installed.jpg

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  10. Today, with the able help of my two daughters I remounted the rear window of the 404 Coupé with no problem at all, and the modified clips are working perfectly.

     

    Took 5 minutes to install and this time I started from the bottom of the seal and finished at the top.  I used a smaller gauge nylon cord to do the lip service (!) this time and it worked beautifully.

     

    YES!!

     

    Rear-window-mounted.jpg

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  11. R-Window-trim-mounted.jpg

    As you may recall, before Christmas I put the rear window in but there were a couple of issues: the lower stainless steel trim piece was perfectly straight and the class is slightly curved, so it was constantly trying to pop the clips out.  And so it did, once the glass was in.

     

    After pulling the trim off I realized that the problem was also that the replica clips were about 2mm shorter than the originals and so didn't penetrate far enough inside the seal's rubber slot to engage with the small channel at the end where the hooked bit goes.  So each of the 30 clips had to be adjusted carefully by hand to match the depth of the 16 remaining originals, which were cadmium plated a couple of years ago.  In doing this - they're made of spring steel - 5 of the 30 snapped but 25 survived. 

     

    I then mounted them to the SS trim along with the 16 originals and so far it's holding well enough.  Actually the rubber seal relies upon the window aperture to keep it tight.  So during installation I'm going to have to ensure the helpers push hard on each clip as I pull the rubber seal through to the inside of the car to make sure the seal clamps the clip in the right position (fully inserted).


  12. Pollen filters were optional and I bet that car was delivered without one.  The air intake unit is the same either way.

     

    I wonder why the guy removed the filter......not good, it's reassuring to have a water separator in these cars.

     

    If lockdown is ever lifted and you are visiting Richmond, Eddy offers remps and OE cruise activation at (sometimes) special prices.  The former inactivates EGR which makes a blanking plate unnecessary.  The latter is a godsend on long highway drives.  Ask me how I know....