Ross Dunn

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About Ross Dunn

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    North Delta
  1. Standard diagnostic procedure for locating an electrical component that has a parasitic draw is the following. 1. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and hook up the ammeter in between the cable end and the positive battery post. Your meter is now in series with the battery. 2. Make sure the car is fully turned off and observe the current draw. It should be below .05 amps. 3. If it draws quite a bit more than that you start removing fuses one at a time until the current flow drops to something like .05 amps. 4. You have now isolated the circuit with parasitic draw component on it and you should be able to disconnect the few components on that circuit and further narrow the search down. 5. Sometimes you have an intermittent fault that could be hard to isolate. It could be a component, wiring or a computer. Selectively removing the suspect part could also help find the culprit.
  2. I have a stock underseat CD changer for the 450 smart. It is free for the first person to come and get it. It comes with wiring and bracket and the magazine is in it. Ross Dunn
  3. I am in! Ross Dunn Delta BC
  4. Evilutions diagrams are no help. I was hoping for an OEM wiring diagram. I guess it will have to wait till I can crack the WIS.
  5. I too bought an aftermarket kit for the switches and relays. I have good passion seats with factory heaters in them. I didn't want to pull them apart and install the aftermarket heaters when they already had factory heaters. I would if they didn't have heaters in them. I found that I couldn't use the switches and relays for the reasons already given. I will save the aftermarket heaters for when I recover the pure seats. I am almost certain that the stock system uses a pulse width (on/off, on/off) system and I will try to find the stock relays, switches and wires from a wrecked car. If anyone has a wiring diagram for the seat heater system for a 450 that would help.
  6. Thanks for your responses. There are no sensors in these 450 seats, just heaters and side airbags. I suspect that the 451 seats are different although there may be a temp sensor in the controls.
  7. I have two smart cars that I have added stock Smart car heated seats to.Of course these cars have none of the smart car wiring for heated seats. I have wired up a fused switch to turn them on and it works fine but the seat gets hot. My problem is how to have a reduced heat setting. I first thought I would separate the backs and seat heaters and do a series/ parallel wiring switch and relay like many aftermarket systems use. You have the heaters in parrallel for high heat and series for low heat. I can't do this however because the heater ressistance is too low, about 2 ohms. I think that I need a Pulse Width Modulate system. Can anyone help me with locating a controler for these heaters? Also does anyone know how Smart Car does it and has wiring diagams? If I got all the wiring ,switches and relays from a wrecked car and installed them would the SAM alow them to work? Thanks Ross
  8. You can also get good service from Victoria Chan at Norwescan Motors at 6851 Palm Avenue in Burnaby.604-443-8863. She is a very experienced Mercedes tech who knows a lot about the smart car. Tell her that Ross sent you.
  9. The car now doesn't shudder when starting out now so it did need a new clutch.
  10. I have a 2006 smartie with 120K that I have owned since new. In the past I have replaced the intercooler fan and repaired the intercooler for leaks and cleaned the EGR mixing valve. I noticed last winter that I sometimes had to cycle the glow plugs once or twice to start the engine and assumed that they where coated with carbon. So I finally got around to replacing them. The trouble is that 2 broke off in the engine. Since the clutch was shuddering I decided to pull the engine and replace the clutch and remove the head to extract the broken glow plugs. I purchased the lowering bolts and dropped the sub frame. Then I pulled the engine and trans out of the sub frame. Interesting things that I learned are:1. The brake lines unclip from the left side of the underbody quite easily for sub frame lowering.2. The AC compressor and the two coolant fitings easily unbolt from the engine and can be tied up to the body. 3. You need a good selection of E-Torx tools to work on this car.4. The axle shafts can be removed by pulling the suspension tube to one side at a time to gain clearance. Remove the axles from the wheel bearing side first.5. To remove the head you need to pull the chain tensioner pin first. I have included a picture of the tool I used to do this. 6. You have to remove the cam to get at half the head bolts. Bleed down the lifters before you replace them as they may hold the valves off their seats.
  11. The problem is oil residue leaking out of the intercooler. Since the engine is a diesel it has no intake vacumn to draw in vapours from the crankcase so these vapours are introduced just upstream of the turbo compressor. They are then compressed with the intake air,which heats it and sends it to the intercooler, where it gets cooled and the oil precipitates out and collects in the intercooler. Normally this is not a problem as the oil will eventually make its way into the engine and get burned up. Unfortunately our cars develop a leak in the bottom of the intercooler because of interference with the air duct. Now whenever the engine develops boost it tends to blow the oil out the leaks where it drips down onto the transmission and then drips on the ground.The repair is to replace the intercooler or fix the leaks with JB weld and grind away the bottom lip of the intercooler duct. You should also clean out your EGR valve at this time.
  12. I had a problem in November that I think was caused by biodiesel. I have been using exclusively Cascadia B40 from the Autogas startion on Nordel way in North Delta since last summer. When the weather got cold I switched to B20. In late november when it was -3C the car would start and then die. I had the car towed to the Mercedes Dealer and they said that the fuel had "jelled" and plugged up the fuel filter. The car was one year old with 24,000 Km on it. Of course this not covered by warrantee and I had to pay. I have since then done some research on Biodiesel and I have found that compounds can precipitate out at suprisingly high temperatures. It all depends on what the Biodiesel was made from. This is different from the regular diesels "cloud" point which is usually parafine. The interesting thing is that these compounds don't necessarily go back into solution when the Biodiesel is warmed up. Sometimes it has to be stirred or shaken. These solids will naturally build up in the filter.I contacted Cascadia and was told to sent in an e-mail and that they would get back to me. As of today I haven't heard from them and I finally realized that I probably never will. I sure like the idea of using Biodiesel but I can't risk having another problem. Its regular diesel for me.
  13. The tires are 15 inch, 175's on front and 195's on the rear. They can be made in any size though. The centers are machined from a billet of forged alluminum and the rims are spun and then heat treated. They are very light, about half the weight of the steel rims. There are different styles of centers. They cost about $2000. I chose these tires because I didn't want to go too big and I was concerned about fuel economy and ride. The smarty already has a firm and choppy ride and I didn't to make it worse. For the same reason I use T rated tires. Yes they are made by Kodiak. If an order of ten or more sets can be placed there will be a discount. Be aware that they are not government certified.
  14. I had these wheels made up for me by a machine shop. They are three piece forged wheels. What do you think?
  15. Hi everyone: I am trying to do the speaker upgrade as my Pure only came with the crappy 4" speakers not in enclosures. I ordered the upgrade kit which only includes the tweeters. I got the info on how to turn on the tweeter circuits from this site, thankyou very much. My problem is that the connector on the end of the tweeter wires is completely different from the connector on the back of the Radio. Why is that and how do I hook them up? Of course MB were no help. Also the speaker boxes for the upgraded 4" speakers are expensive. Any suggestions there? Is anyone putting in a supper sound system and wants to sell there old speakers.