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About booneylander

  • Birthday 12/17/1983

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  • Location
    Ottawa, On, Canada
  • Interests
    Bikes and Cars.

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  1. seems to have good prices.
  2. No issues yet, will keep you posted.
  3. I have been removing the actuator, filling it with automatic transmission fluid through the boot, re-installing on the car, then going through the clutch actuation program using DAS, to cycle the actuator. I then remove the actuator, dump out the ATF, and re-install. I use DAS to then do a clutch drag point re-learn. I have been surprised how much "junk" comes out with the ATF. It is safe for plastic/rubber/alloy. My clutch actuators are very smooth and quiet using this method, which I repeat every 25-30k km. It must be said that after the initial service when buying the car, when I've repeated this procedure, the innards of the clutch actuator have still been "wet" and the ATF comes back out pretty clean.
  4. The unfortunate part is that guys are selling "remanufactured" turbos on Kijiji for $899+ and they're just OEM housings repainted (poorly) with these $100 center sections in them.
  5. It is time to update this thread with my experiences. After about 8000km on the first center section, the turbine-compressor shaft snapped in half. I replaced the center section with another one (I had bought two at once to have a "spare"). Right off the hop the second center section sounded really different, much quieter, so I had though maybe the first one I had put in was just a bad one that hadn't been properly balanced or something. I tried to get the broken one replaced since the seller advertised that it had a one year warranty. To make a long story short, the seller basically told me to fork off and the ali express dispute system didn't help me either. Unimpressed. Chalk it up to a learning experience. The second center section hung in there for about 16k km (maybe a bit more, the SO has been really pounding the mileage to the thing and I forget where it was when I swapped the last center section in), just a few days ago it also seems to have bit the dust. I haven't taken everything apart yet but the car is boost-less and I can't hear any turbo noise at all under load so I'm assuming a similar failure has occurred, I wasn't driving the car at the time, so the only report I got was "I think it's in limp mode or something". I've ordered another chinese CHRA to replace it. A different "brand". I was contemplating trying to get my hands on a good used OEM one or even ordering an OEM replacement, but, the price gap is so substantial that even at 10-20k km cartridge changes, china is still the way to go. This time I ordered it from Amazon, from a seller who's name I've seen many times selling many goods so I'm hoping the warranty process, if I have an immediate issue with the turbo, might be a bit better. I'll be the guinea pig.
  6. Could it be possible that with removing the turbo and working on it, that the wastegate actuator rod got jammed or out of adjustment? Sounds like an over-boost limp mode.
  7. Good info for anyone looking to run SVO/WVO.
  8. Hey I'm in Calgary AB looking to sell a set of red smart car panels, would you be interested?

  9. Would a broken speed sensor ring cause all 3 lights to come on?
  10. Yes, you will need to remove the rear bumper cover, and the rear crash bar, so that you can gain access to service the wastegate actuator rod/flap.
  11. I still think you should try to confirm that the wastegate has not become stuck from sitting.
  12. Not particularly, I normally don't end up with less than 4.0-4.5L, often I don't even get that low as most of my travels are long distances and I'll "top off" before leaving. No signs of thermal damage to the fuel hoses, O-rings, etc which were all in good shape. Hasn't been particularly hot here either, 10-20C mostly. But who knows, could be that the restriction from the filter being clogged, and the resulting low rate of fuel flow meant the high pressure pump had to work extra hard and got the fuel extra hot. Come to think of it I didn't check the brand of the filter I took out, but it seemed to have been changed at least once before in the car's life (worm gear clamps on the fuel hoses). It had a black housing with a silver top like a MANN though. There was quite a bit of junk in the fuel that backwashed out of the housing when I dumped it out into a clear container.
  13. A couple weeks ago, I filled up with fuel from a newly built gas station, and about 50 kms away the engine just died, leaving me to coast the the side of the road. I shut the ignition off until the ECU ran down (takes about 20 seconds I think). Restarted the car and kept driving. Check engine light was now on. I managed to limp the car home the remaining ~150km, having to "reset" it a few more times along the way. I noticed that it tended to cut out when I was accelerating. Thinking I had water in the fuel or something I added some treatment but that didn't help on the jaunt between home and my shop the next day and I had to reset the car again. Once hooked up to STAR I read the code was low pressure in the fuel manifold or something to that effect. So I replaced the fuel filter / water separator, luckily I had one on the shelf waiting to go in. When I cut the old filter open I found that the element was badly collapsed, so it was surely clogged right up to generate enough pressure differential to collapse the filter element like that. So, a bad batch of fuel from the new gas station, or it was just due, take your pick, probably a bit from column A and a bit from column B. Anyway it was a reminder for me, and I'll be ordering a couple more filters to do the other smarts in the fleet which are probably similarly over-due for replacement (none of them came with a service history when purchased).
  14. It sounds to me as though you may have a stuck wastegate actuator. The car could be going into "limp" mode because of over-boost due to the stuck actuator, making the car drive normally at lower RPM and seem dead at higher RPM and causing the shifting issues in automatic mode.