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About booneylander

  • Birthday 12/17/1983

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    Ottawa, On, Canada
  • Interests
    Bikes and Cars.

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  1. Sorry. Haven’t signed in here for a while. I’m surprised no one has mentioned servicing the clutch actuator. Even with only 51k km the car is still 10-12 years old. Time the get that thing cleaned out and lubed up.
  2. I would think that 3D printing would give them a huge advantage in strength versus weight because they'd be able to print complex honeycomb lattices that you just couldn't produce with traditional manufacturing techniques. You could make crumple-able parts of the car that could disperse a ton of energy in a crash.
  3. Neat idea not having to weld, but I feel like once you have the pan off to put the inner nut onto the bolt, it's hardly any more work to just weld in a proper bung from the outside:
  4. The rear brake parts are all cross-compatible as far as I can tell, but that's just based on visual inspection, I didn't actually fit them across platforms, just had a set of each apart on the bench.
  5. Never thought of that approach!
  6. I use mine on a Windows XP Virtual Machine.
  7. I ran 91 for several tanks in the gf's 451, then ran 87 for several tanks. If there was a difference in "power", it wasn't noticeable. Mileage was slightly worse with 87, about 5.7 vs 5.5 on 91. I never noticed any adverse effects switching fuels like stumbling or knock or anything like that. Realistically, any car equipped with a knock sensor will be able to detect the onset of detonation and retard ignition timing long before you could "hear" it. One thing to consider is that fuels with ethanol blended into them already have a built in "gas line antifreeze" and "injector cleaner", as these additive use an ethanol analog, often naphthalene, methanol, or methyl hydrate. I have seen people experience fuel filter or injector clogging when an ethanol blend fuel is used in a car that has spent it's life running on non-ethanol fuels. The non-ethanol fuel often allows buildup of varnish/goop especially if the car is driven infrequently or never gets totally hot. When you add an ethanol fuel or a fuel injector cleaner it will sometime cause these deposits to slough off and end up clogging small orifi. Of course when that happens people are quick to tell you how they put ethanol fuel in and that's what caused the issue, which, is not *really* the truth. I've often managed to "cure" poor-running cars with the use of high concentrations of methyl hydrate and some good old fashioned long-haul drives keeping engine load low. Now, older cars, small engines that are carbureted, or engines that frequently sit for extended periods of time, I think can be quite sensitive to damage from ethanol fuels. Owing to ethanol's propensity to adhere to water, if sitting for a long period of time, will pull water out of the air and then pool in the bottom of the fuel tank or carb bowl and wreak havoc from there. Especially where you have brass components involved like in carbs. Interestingly, our daily driver 451 has a factory-looking sticker on the fuel door stating "Use only 91 RON fuel". I say interesting because I haven't noticed the same sticker on other 451s I've come across, not that I was looking very hard. And as we know 91 RON is roughly equivalent to 87 (R+M)/2. I'm wondering if the previous owner might have replaced the fuel door with a euro door from eBay or something if his was damaged. The owner's manual however is very clear about using only premium 91 (R+M)/2 fuel. Anyway... long post just to say I don't buy into the whole "ethanol is the devil" thing. In fact quite the opposite, I think ethanol fuels are great for applications where the fuel isn't allowed to sit for months at a time. But, like most everything in life, you have to understand that "to ethanol or not to ethanol" isn't a question with a one-size-fits-all answer. As for me, I run ethanol fuels the majority of the time in my 451s with no adverse effects seen as of yet, and I buy ethanol free for winter storage of my yard equipment and "toys". It would be interesting to log ignition advance curves in the 451 for different conditions and fuels to find out if there's a set of conditions where the car starts pulling ignition timing to correct for detonation. Like, would you get full timing advance in winter running 87 but not in summer, owing to a difference in intake air temp, or if you were to stay away from a certain load/rpm part of the rev range, or do you see the difference between fuels under any condition. Would make for an interesting comparison. For my efforts, the difference in mileage between 87 and 91 was seen in the middle of the hot summer. I should re-run the comparison in winter to see if there's still a difference. Or would the difference simply be owing the a slightly different BTU value between an ethanol and non-ethanol fuel? So many variables... Probably not worth the effort to find out. lol
  8. Driving something that's not charging, in the rain, is the worst. Wipers, headlights, blower motor... dispense your electrons wisely lol No issues shifting as the power got low? I found the clutch actuator and shift motor started to misbehave in the 9-10V range. With all the work at the dealer the car's going to be like new again! I'm due for some intercooler attention on mine as well, been noticing a drip which I thought was an axle seal at first but after replacing those and cleaning the area of all the splattered oil I was able to notice the "fresh" drips after a drive were in fact from the intercooler not the transaxle...
  9. I have seen a stuck/leaking injector cause similar issues, might be worth making sure they are good before putting miles on the car.
  10. That's pretty harsh. The 451s have plenty of their own issues and I would argue they are generally more costly to repair when they do go wrong. I have had plenty of both 450s and 451s. Like any used car, you can get a lemon or you can get a gem. I think either one requires much more proactive care and maintenance per km as compared to other car brands. But I think if you have a reasonable mechanic or can do simple maintenance yourself, they can be both quite reliable and quite economical. One comment I do have however is that the 450 seems to do better being regularly driven and for longer trips whereas the 451 seems to cope better with short blasts, no doubt because it gets up to temp much more quickly in cold weather.
  11. That's the oil cooler. Is it possible that in the process of changing the oil filter you may have damaged the new o-ring when re-installing the housing? Could be that it is just leaking out near the oil cooler.
  12. I would say check the motor mounts, though in truth I have no idea what the motor mounts in an ED would even look like or if the motor is hard mounted to the chassis or what.
  13. If the hose to the actuator is cracked, or if the diaphragm in the actuator itself is torn, the boost leaks out and can't build enough pressure to compress the spring in the actuator. So the rod doesn't extend and the wastegate doesn't open, boost keeps climbing, and you get an overboost code and limp mode.
  14. Glenn was recommending the motor be turned over by hand. You would not turn the ignition on and therefore not have fuel spraying out. His method would be very effective to know if you have enough compression to start the car, and requires no special tools.
  15. For what it's worth, all the equipment I have gets nothing special for fuel, just 87 octane, in winter when I'm storing things I just add some fuel stabilizer that lists compatibility/effectiveness with ethanol fuels, and have never had an issue with the ethanol rotting anything out. Even after a couple years of sitting I just flush the fuel tank out, fill with fresh, and fire it up. In case that might apply to anyone storing their smarties.