Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by booneylander

  1. Just curious to see if anyone would be interested in having a get together somewhere in the Kingston/Ottawa/Montreal kind of corridor this fall?
  2. So I was in my coupe following the SO in her cabrio the other day, and noticed that it was very... VERY smokey. It is remapped but was never anywhere near that dirty. I could hear the turbo spooling but the symptoms just seemed like a lack of boost. The CEL was on, but it had been for a while for an EGR code, and I had loaned out my Scangauge so couldn't do a quick read. So, thinking I might have a boost leak or that the wastegate actuator was jammed half way open or something, I popped the rear bodywork and bumper off to have a look. Couldn't find any indications of a boost leak, and the actuator was moving freely. But, I did find that the intake hose from the turbo inlet to the airbox was off on the airbox side. Crap. I popped the hose off and got in to sneak a peek at the impeller. Sure enough, many of the vanes were worn down and damaged by foreign objects. I have no idea how long the hose has been off, but I recall when I got the car a year ago, thinking "turbo must be on it's way out, it's awfully loud". So, I'm guessing it was always like that. I never had the back panel off so I never noticed. Anywho at least I found the culprit for the lack of boost. I was able to remove the compressor/center/turbine from the exhaust manifold easily enough. So I ordered up a couple center sections from Aliexpress. Cheap. So we'll see how that works out, hopefully they fit and don't just blow up the first time I get into the boost. I guess I'll be a test mule. I know, I know. "Should have bought an OEM one". But I bought these smarties on the cheap as "beaters", so spending more than the car's worth isn't really my first choice...
  3. Actually not very difficult at all. Just need a 90deg rubber or silicone hose and short section of straight pipe.
  4. Speaking of emulators... I was about to order up a couple more emulators from Tafmet which I have been using and have been reliable. Then I noticed the shipping is now $40 each piece which is luda since even ordering two of them, would fit into a tiny bubble mailer. Brought the total up to $200 for a pair of them. Anyone else sourced a good quality emulator for less dough?
  5. Anyway the paintjob looked sharp, but for some reason the back plastic window was all loose and weird, looked like a shower curtain. Not sure what would cause it to go like that unless it had been replaced at some time with poor quality plastic or if it was sewn in weird.
  6. There was a set of Spikelines for sale in SW Ontario about a year ago for what at the time seemed like too much money, but now I'm wishing I had picked them up.
  7. That looks like the one! It's parked outside the local "Inn" so they may be just passing through.
  8. Who's got the 450 Cabrio painted OD green on a black frame, with the shark-face nose art?
  9. When you heat the bolt it stretches and relieves the clamping force.
  10. As the title states I'm looking for a left tail light for a 450 cabrio. LEt me know if you have one. Thanks, Sean
  11. So on one of our 451s we have been running, we've killed it's second alternator in about 20k km. At first, when I got the car and we started driving it, I would notice that the headlights would dim when the car was changing gears. Not much, like, not enough for my SO to notice it, but I would notice it. I never really thought much of it until the alternator up and died. So fine, I swapped in a spare alternator I had from a parts car. While I was at it I removed/cleaned/reinstalled the ground strap and checked continuity from the battery neg terminal to the engine block (had no resistance before fiddling, and after as well). With the new alternator installed the headlights wouldn't dim anymore on shifts and everything seemed good. Now the replacement alternator has gone as well. So I'm wondering if anyone's experienced something similar? I'm wondering if there might be an issue with something else drawing too much current, or if there's anything on the control side of things (SAM?) that I might check to look for issues that might be causing the alternator to over/under charge or... I'm going to try a few more things while I'm at it but I'm out of spare alternators which means the next one is going to be out of pocket and I'd rather not have to keep replacing them. For what it's worth, on one of my 450s I killed a couple alternators, but in that case I had an aftermarket under-seat subwoofer to blame, which, once unhooked, solved the issue. Unfortunately no such devices to blame in the 451.
  12. When I had the belt off I checked the tensioner pulley to be sure it was spinning freely, and it seemed fine. Might be worth changing it completely as preventative anyway. It's certainly possible that the "spare" was on the way out too. The battery is only a couple years old, Interstate. And it starts the car like a champ every time, so I'd be surprised if it was causing an issue, but you never know. I'll run the scangauge in the car for a while after I replace the alt, so I can monitor voltage over long periods and see if I can find anything that might pull the voltage way down like turning on the heater fan, wipers, etc... something that's pulling way more juice than it normally should. The plan is to pull it and take both it and the old one I took out in to be rebuilt so I'll have a spare for later. Will be interested to see what if anything the rebuilder says about what went wrong with them.
  13. I think the fact that most cars are manual is a huge reason for such good driving. When you drive a manual you have to, at the very least, be able to look ahead and plan accordingly so you don't end up round a slow bend in top gear getting into trouble. Much more difficult to be distracted when you have to manage that extra variable. Not to mention that there aren't nearly as many long boring unbroken roads, and even when there are, you almost never get one without lots of other traffic. All those things together make driving much more engaging. I did about 20k km around 13 countries in Western Europe back in 2012 and even trying to manage a warm drink while driving was difficult enough. You just never have 5 seconds where you're not making inputs. Then again I was trying to stick to good backroads as much as possible and hardly ever took the straightest route somewhere.
  14. I had my voltmeter in the car just on the seat when I test drove the car after swapping the alternator. A good long drive and charging was normal - 14.3-14.5V at most all times.
  15. I think clean examples of 450 CDIs we have in Canada will appreciate quite a bit once they hit the magic 25 years of age and our US neighbors can start bringing them in legally. I could envision quite a few wanting one in their collection as it's a pretty unique car in North America.
  16. Finally got around to taking a pic of the fuel door. I was wrong about it saying use only 91 RON, but it certainly says 91 RON as a minimum, which would be equivalent to 87 AKI that we have posted at our Canadian pumps.
  18. Sounds like a job for "Uncle Glenn".
  19. I have found with 450s and 451s, if you are experienceing any kind of "lag" between application of accelerator and the car moving off the line from a full stop, that performing a clutch teach-in using STAR has always resolved the issue. When the ECU stores a "drag point" for the clutch, and then you pile on the miles, the ECU still thinks the drag point is at XYZ position of the clutch actuator but in fact wear and tear will result in the actual drag point being before or after that XYZ setpoint. The other symptom of this, which I have noted on 451s particularly, is that when you let off the brake at a stop, the car will lurch forward in a neck-snapping kind of way, very uncomfortable. I've also noticed a symptom of a poor drag point setting is that when starting on an uphill, the car will rev up from idle but not actually move forward and not give enough revs to build enough power to overcome the grade, basically just feels like it doesn't have enough power to get going but in fact it's just a matter of the clutch being out of adjustment. I have no experience with 453s but I could envision that the DCT transmission might need a similar periodical teach-in of the clutch drag point(s).
  20. Bring one back for me as well!
  21. Time to stock up on diesel cars so when you wear one out you can just pull another one out of the cupboard and keep driving it.
  22. Sorry. Haven’t signed in here for a while. I’m surprised no one has mentioned servicing the clutch actuator. Even with only 51k km the car is still 10-12 years old. Time the get that thing cleaned out and lubed up.
  23. I would think that 3D printing would give them a huge advantage in strength versus weight because they'd be able to print complex honeycomb lattices that you just couldn't produce with traditional manufacturing techniques. You could make crumple-able parts of the car that could disperse a ton of energy in a crash.
  24. Neat idea not having to weld, but I feel like once you have the pan off to put the inner nut onto the bolt, it's hardly any more work to just weld in a proper bung from the outside:
  25. The rear brake parts are all cross-compatible as far as I can tell, but that's just based on visual inspection, I didn't actually fit them across platforms, just had a set of each apart on the bench.