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Everything posted by booneylander

  2. I have found with 450s and 451s, if you are experienceing any kind of "lag" between application of accelerator and the car moving off the line from a full stop, that performing a clutch teach-in using STAR has always resolved the issue. When the ECU stores a "drag point" for the clutch, and then you pile on the miles, the ECU still thinks the drag point is at XYZ position of the clutch actuator but in fact wear and tear will result in the actual drag point being before or after that XYZ setpoint. The other symptom of this, which I have noted on 451s particularly, is that when you let off the brake at a stop, the car will lurch forward in a neck-snapping kind of way, very uncomfortable. I've also noticed a symptom of a poor drag point setting is that when starting on an uphill, the car will rev up from idle but not actually move forward and not give enough revs to build enough power to overcome the grade, basically just feels like it doesn't have enough power to get going but in fact it's just a matter of the clutch being out of adjustment. I have no experience with 453s but I could envision that the DCT transmission might need a similar periodical teach-in of the clutch drag point(s).
  3. Bring one back for me as well!
  4. Time to stock up on diesel cars so when you wear one out you can just pull another one out of the cupboard and keep driving it.
  5. Sorry. Haven’t signed in here for a while. I’m surprised no one has mentioned servicing the clutch actuator. Even with only 51k km the car is still 10-12 years old. Time the get that thing cleaned out and lubed up.
  6. I would think that 3D printing would give them a huge advantage in strength versus weight because they'd be able to print complex honeycomb lattices that you just couldn't produce with traditional manufacturing techniques. You could make crumple-able parts of the car that could disperse a ton of energy in a crash.
  7. Neat idea not having to weld, but I feel like once you have the pan off to put the inner nut onto the bolt, it's hardly any more work to just weld in a proper bung from the outside:
  8. The rear brake parts are all cross-compatible as far as I can tell, but that's just based on visual inspection, I didn't actually fit them across platforms, just had a set of each apart on the bench.
  9. Never thought of that approach!
  10. I use mine on a Windows XP Virtual Machine.
  11. I ran 91 for several tanks in the gf's 451, then ran 87 for several tanks. If there was a difference in "power", it wasn't noticeable. Mileage was slightly worse with 87, about 5.7 vs 5.5 on 91. I never noticed any adverse effects switching fuels like stumbling or knock or anything like that. Realistically, any car equipped with a knock sensor will be able to detect the onset of detonation and retard ignition timing long before you could "hear" it. One thing to consider is that fuels with ethanol blended into them already have a built in "gas line antifreeze" and "injector cleaner", as these additive use an ethanol analog, often naphthalene, methanol, or methyl hydrate. I have seen people experience fuel filter or injector clogging when an ethanol blend fuel is used in a car that has spent it's life running on non-ethanol fuels. The non-ethanol fuel often allows buildup of varnish/goop especially if the car is driven infrequently or never gets totally hot. When you add an ethanol fuel or a fuel injector cleaner it will sometime cause these deposits to slough off and end up clogging small orifi. Of course when that happens people are quick to tell you how they put ethanol fuel in and that's what caused the issue, which, is not *really* the truth. I've often managed to "cure" poor-running cars with the use of high concentrations of methyl hydrate and some good old fashioned long-haul drives keeping engine load low. Now, older cars, small engines that are carbureted, or engines that frequently sit for extended periods of time, I think can be quite sensitive to damage from ethanol fuels. Owing to ethanol's propensity to adhere to water, if sitting for a long period of time, will pull water out of the air and then pool in the bottom of the fuel tank or carb bowl and wreak havoc from there. Especially where you have brass components involved like in carbs. Interestingly, our daily driver 451 has a factory-looking sticker on the fuel door stating "Use only 91 RON fuel". I say interesting because I haven't noticed the same sticker on other 451s I've come across, not that I was looking very hard. And as we know 91 RON is roughly equivalent to 87 (R+M)/2. I'm wondering if the previous owner might have replaced the fuel door with a euro door from eBay or something if his was damaged. The owner's manual however is very clear about using only premium 91 (R+M)/2 fuel. Anyway... long post just to say I don't buy into the whole "ethanol is the devil" thing. In fact quite the opposite, I think ethanol fuels are great for applications where the fuel isn't allowed to sit for months at a time. But, like most everything in life, you have to understand that "to ethanol or not to ethanol" isn't a question with a one-size-fits-all answer. As for me, I run ethanol fuels the majority of the time in my 451s with no adverse effects seen as of yet, and I buy ethanol free for winter storage of my yard equipment and "toys". It would be interesting to log ignition advance curves in the 451 for different conditions and fuels to find out if there's a set of conditions where the car starts pulling ignition timing to correct for detonation. Like, would you get full timing advance in winter running 87 but not in summer, owing to a difference in intake air temp, or if you were to stay away from a certain load/rpm part of the rev range, or do you see the difference between fuels under any condition. Would make for an interesting comparison. For my efforts, the difference in mileage between 87 and 91 was seen in the middle of the hot summer. I should re-run the comparison in winter to see if there's still a difference. Or would the difference simply be owing the a slightly different BTU value between an ethanol and non-ethanol fuel? So many variables... Probably not worth the effort to find out. lol
  12. Driving something that's not charging, in the rain, is the worst. Wipers, headlights, blower motor... dispense your electrons wisely lol No issues shifting as the power got low? I found the clutch actuator and shift motor started to misbehave in the 9-10V range. With all the work at the dealer the car's going to be like new again! I'm due for some intercooler attention on mine as well, been noticing a drip which I thought was an axle seal at first but after replacing those and cleaning the area of all the splattered oil I was able to notice the "fresh" drips after a drive were in fact from the intercooler not the transaxle...
  13. I have seen a stuck/leaking injector cause similar issues, might be worth making sure they are good before putting miles on the car.
  14. That's pretty harsh. The 451s have plenty of their own issues and I would argue they are generally more costly to repair when they do go wrong. I have had plenty of both 450s and 451s. Like any used car, you can get a lemon or you can get a gem. I think either one requires much more proactive care and maintenance per km as compared to other car brands. But I think if you have a reasonable mechanic or can do simple maintenance yourself, they can be both quite reliable and quite economical. One comment I do have however is that the 450 seems to do better being regularly driven and for longer trips whereas the 451 seems to cope better with short blasts, no doubt because it gets up to temp much more quickly in cold weather.
  15. That's the oil cooler. Is it possible that in the process of changing the oil filter you may have damaged the new o-ring when re-installing the housing? Could be that it is just leaking out near the oil cooler.
  16. I would say check the motor mounts, though in truth I have no idea what the motor mounts in an ED would even look like or if the motor is hard mounted to the chassis or what.
  17. If the hose to the actuator is cracked, or if the diaphragm in the actuator itself is torn, the boost leaks out and can't build enough pressure to compress the spring in the actuator. So the rod doesn't extend and the wastegate doesn't open, boost keeps climbing, and you get an overboost code and limp mode.
  18. Glenn was recommending the motor be turned over by hand. You would not turn the ignition on and therefore not have fuel spraying out. His method would be very effective to know if you have enough compression to start the car, and requires no special tools.
  19. For what it's worth, all the equipment I have gets nothing special for fuel, just 87 octane, in winter when I'm storing things I just add some fuel stabilizer that lists compatibility/effectiveness with ethanol fuels, and have never had an issue with the ethanol rotting anything out. Even after a couple years of sitting I just flush the fuel tank out, fill with fresh, and fire it up. In case that might apply to anyone storing their smarties.
  20. Welcome! Without hearing it, based on your description, it sounds like your Secondary Air Injection Pump is getting noisy. It is located on top of the rear subframe on the passenger side. If the noise happens on cold starts for ~5-20 seconds and then shuts off, and does not happen on a hot restart of the motor, I think it's a good bet that's what your noise is.
  21. I'm all for going to higher ethanol content fuels and developing the infrastructure/cars to use it. I honestly can't imagine it would be that difficult, I see so many people on the "performance" end of things building their cars to run E85 for it's high power potential (thanks to it's cooling effect and anti-knock properties). I think the ideal situation would be to sell a coloured "off road" non-ethanol fuel for use in small engines, like they do with diesel for farm/commercial off road use, which should be cheaper due to not having to pay road taxes. Then have an ethanol-based fuel for road use. If you phase it in over a long enough period of time, there shouldn't be any issues. I mean they already sell flexfuel cars, and, like the leaded-only cars of yesteryear, enthusiasts/collectors will just adapt (grumpily I'm sure). If the ICE is going to stick around, it's pretty much going to have to run on ethanol or biodiesel as we continue to tackle the problem of net carbon emissions reductions. I'd rather see biodiesel get pushed but we all know how diesels are being bullied out of existence.
  22. Out of curiosity have you confirmed you have no significant restriction in the intake? Easy way to test it i sto just remove the rubber hose from the EGR to the intake manifold. If the EGR is full of carbon to the point of restricting too much airflow, the motor will start but as soon as it starts to draw a vacuum you lose compression and it will quit. Weird that it would run with #3 GP out though... Anyway, something to try if you haven't already, and a very easy test.
  23. One of our 451s "caught fire". The sound deadening material above the catalytic converter had delaminated and fallen onto the catalytic. It started smoldering but luckily we noticed the smoke and doused the material before it could do anything. I then removed the remaining material from the area near the catalytic. I wouldn't be surprised if this is a common cause of the fires, as I have noticed most of the 08-09 451s I've had hands on suffer from the same issue of the sound deadening material just coming apart and drooping onto the engine. Being in the engine bay, and especially the stuff located near the catalytic, you'd think they would have used something more durable or at the very least non-combustible. Maybe the later versions were updated with that, I'm not sure. Anyway I now know to keep a close eye on our other 451s for this issue. Perhaps failed flex pipes and hot exhaust gases in the engine bay make the material deteriorate? All the 451s I have had my hands on have the telltale melted rear valence from the flex pipe failing and the muffler flopping forward.