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About Smart_guy

  • Birthday 03/13/1980

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    4349 Cty Rd #31 Williamsburg Ontario

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  1. Ok so I read most of the posts but not all. I have seen a few bad sams for this issue. pull the sam down, ground a test light (test light bulb must be an incandescent light bulb which requires more amps to operate than an LED test light) stick the probe end gently into the back of the big white connector that has a single blue wire which is quite fat. Disable the security and try cranking. If the test light lights up you know that the sam is operating. Go to the engine bay, locate the spade terminal and VERY carefully check for power on the spade while someone activates the starter. if it lights up, wiring is good, time to check lugs on starter and main cable from solenoid to starter. If it doesn't light up at this location then there is likely a break in the wire. If the light did not light up on the blue wire on the back of the sam you will need a new sam for a correct repair. If you are adventurous there is a start signal wire that goes from the ignition switch to sam, this is a very thin wire and will not be able to activate the starter, but it will operate a relay. I have successfully installed a relay on these circuits and has lasted for 2 years so far. The difference here is you have to hold the key in the crank position as we are avoiding the sam which means no timer. This is the important part. If you are not 100% confident in your automotive electrical testing and repairing, I would not recommend attempting the relay on your own. Since you are now playing with network wiring you can do serious damage if you make an oops. Remember once you let the smoke out, you can't put it back in If anyone has questions feel free to ask here or message me. Troy
  2. Hey glad to hear you joined the club. I am actually in the process of 2 smart projects. One is a 2008 Smart to be a loaner car. Attempting a head machine for over heating. Rule is "not machinable" Im trying anyway. That will be my daily driver in place of my Jetta. The other may have interest to you from a "learning where stuff is" point of view. I have recently purchased a 450 which I plan to do a bunch of repairs and updates to, and resell. I am replacing front brake pads, rotors, park brake cables, clutch, clutch fork, muffler, alternator belt, coolant, brake fluid, engine oil, trans oil, filters, and front springs. So I will have this thing torn apart a fair bit. If you would like to try to arrange to stop by and see where things are you are welcome to give me a shout and we'll try to co ordinate our schedules. 613-558-4742 Troy
  3. I have approached several of my suppliers and I am going to have some items for sale at the BBQ at 10% over cost. Oil filters, AMSOIL products, and general maintenance stuff. I currently have 1 new muffler that I will be selling for $499 + tax, 1 set of front springs for $98 + tax as a one time special for the event. If there are any parts that you guys would like please let me know and I will order for you. I will have invoices to prove my 10% and also want to point out that when paying with debit or credit I lose 2% to the bank and Im ok with the 8% I am left with .Thanks and hope to see you all in a couple weeks.Troy
  4. The dealer wants to replace the entire harness because it is easier than trying to find ever problem. I have posted pictures about the common problems that I have encountered. These are typically around the transmission caused by the corrugated wire loom designed to protect the wires, and the ground point above the intercooler is also a common problem. I have found the main ground cable from the rear of the body to the EGR to have some issues too. The bare ones corrode and the worst one I have had actually consumed 1.7 volts just from corrosion. I love doing electrical and would be happy to take a look if you are in the Ottawa area. I definitely agree that a used harness may not be a good option as it can have the same problems you already have.
  5. Ya Mike is just around the corner from us. Cool little cars and he drives them all the time :)I do think there will be free diagnosis with all the smart enthusiasts around As for bringing anything sure feel free to bring stuff if you would like. I plan to have macaroni salad, coleslaw, chips, burgers, hot dogs and pop. And by all means if you know other smarties that are not part of the club that would like to attend just have them let me knowTroy
  6. Hello everyone. Club Smart Car has provided a great deal of positive influence to my business and I would like to say thank you. I am going to host a BBQ for Smart owners, customers, friends and fellow members on Saturday July 12th. I will be at the shop all day but will start the BBQ at noon until 3 or 4pm. We will have free hot dogs, hamburgers, chips and drinks.I would like to ask for anyone interested in attending please let me know so that I can be sure to accommodate the proper number of people. Also if anyone attending would like veggie burgers or non gluten buns please let me know so I can accommodate you too. Spread the word but make sure I get a head count. I can be reached:Here on CSCwww.troywilsonautomotive.comservice@troywilsonautomotive.comcall or text 613-558-4742or on Facebook Troy Wilson Automotive. Thank you and hope to hear from you soon. Troy
  7. Wow, its been a while since I last heard of that. A trick that an old Diesel tech once taught me was add some ATF to the fuel after a diesel has ran on gas to help relubricate the injectors and whatnot. It was a liter of ATF to a tank of fuel on a large pick up truck. No idea if it actually does anything or not but thought Id share.Troy
  8. This is the crazy one on the top front left of the rear subframe. See that green "wire"!!! wow. and notice the blue wire has a notch in it. All from vibrations.
  9. This is one of the rubs I found that was caused when the harness is bent and the wire rubs against the inside wall of the covering.
  10. So these are the cracked insulation just outside the connector and the blue wire is where the ribbed covering rubbed through the wire's insulation
  11. I just did a clutch on a car and found lots of chaffed wires. A lot of them were dirty and had to be cleaned well to get a good look at them. At the end of the protective cover a lot of wires get rubbed by the stiff edge of old hardened covering. I removed all the covering up to the main harness cleaned every wire and inspected them with a light and knife. In some spots you can just barely see the strands but when you scrape the knife sideways the copper will get shiny. Not too much pressure as to cut the wire. Any place the wires exit the cover, check well. Any place the harnesses cross, check well. Any place the wires would make contact to the inside of the protective cover, check well. I had the green wire of the 5 pin connector that is located on the top front left of the rear subframe broken. The green insulation was rubbed through and the copper was gone for about an inch. Corroded really badly and absolutely no connection. On the high pressure fuel pump's volume control valve harness (2 wire harness going to the High Pressure pump) I found the blue wire's cover gone for about 2-3 inches. In cases where the wire's covering is damaged in a bad spot like just outside of the connector, if the copper is still shiny and a repair will be difficult, it is an option to use RTV silicone to seal the wire back up. If you have to repair a section of wire local part stores have a really nice double wall butt connector. These are expensive but really good because after you crimp the wire into the butt connector, you melt it with a heat gun and it shrinks and there is a glue that seals the butt connector to the wire's insulation. Take a good look at your grounds. The car I was working on today, the 6 grounds that are bolted over the intercooler were all still intact but rotted. They were still copper coloured but the copper was old and brittle. I cut out about 2-3 inches to get to good copper and soldered on a new copper lug. Clean the bolt point too. Good luck.Troy
  12. Thats a major problem in the trade, so many names for the same part from manufacturer to manufacturer. That valve is a duty cycle valve. Commands are sent by the engine control module EDG in smart world. This command is a percentage of on time. The command is sent to the valve and the rail pressure sensor on the other end should see if the command is correct to build pressure. This COULD be the source of no start conditions affected by temperature. For anyone with that condition and access to a scanner capable of seeing rail pressure, please get the rail pressure reading while cranking and post on there or PM me as I would like to get some solid cases of this. Troy
  13. So I had a customer call me looking for a second opinion about the cause of a no start condition. I was told that it was diagnosed at the dealer as needing a high pressure fuel pump. Since I haven't replaced one yet I was sceptical. So go get the car, tow it to my shop and start diagnosis. Charge battery. Scanner connected I was monitoring Fuel Rail Pressure during cranking. This unit was only able to achieve 108bar. I connected to a different car that would start and it was 250-300bar while cranking. Ok so maybe it could be a high pressure pump. So on a hunch I swapped in a known good PCV valve (Pressure Control Valve). Tried starting again, about 5 seconds into cranking Rail pressure hit 250bar and it started. Tried it a few times and same thing 250-300bar and excellent starts. New PCV valve is $350 but backordered. So if you have s no start and access to a good scanner that will show rail pressure, check that while cranking, may save time and moneyTroy
  14. Im going to be going to Kenny U-Pull this week for other stuff. While Im there I will look for an external one way check valve. Most cars use them for this exact application. Im pretty sure we can find a 90 degree rubber elbow and an inline check valve to fit. This way replacement for others will be cheap and easy. Most parts stores have these rubber elbows for cars the the 1998 ford Escort's PCV elbow, they used to fail all the time. I think that part should be about the right size too.If you take the stock valve out and use just a rubber elbow be careful Im not sure how the brakes would respond. Troy