Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About scwmcan

  • Birthday 09/24/1968

Profile Information

  • Location
    St. Catharines, ON
  1. Hi long time no post. Started my smart up for the first time in about 6 or 7 months, just needed to charge the battery and away it it went. Will be looking at what is going on with the clutch finally ( yes it has been about a year without looking at it). The fork it stuck in an engaged position, will need to get the trans off and see what is going on with it). Since I can't really justify having the car ( have driven it maybe 1000 km in the last two years) it may be time to sell it, but will see after I get it up and running again. No commute means that even my gas guzzler matrix only needs to be filled up once a month, kind of hard to justify two cars when you are driving about 5,000 km/ year ( plus vacation milage).
  2. Thanks, if I don't get the bolts at least I have an alternative . Should be interesting at the least.
  3. First thing is to disconnect the battery for about ten minutes before you start ( if you have the original radio make sure you have the security code before you do this) then you can work on the upholstery without setting anything off ( still be careful but the system will not go off electrically at least).
  4. Sorry it's been a while on the update front. Haven't ordered a clutch yet as I am going to take a look at it first ( take it out). I am still figuring I will need one but funds aren't available yet. I did take the actuator off again and look at the fork, there are no holes, but after seeing the pic on the other clutch thread I can see that the fork is stuck partly engaged, thus my no shifting problem. I will try to get a photo in the next few days. I seem to recall reading that it is possible to split the transmission from the engine without completely removing the engine from the car ( seem to recall Dom mentioning this). I don't have the lowering bolts so don't know if I need to save up for those too. Hopefully I will get to this by September ( have a few things to do in the garage first before I push the car back in todo the work on it), and will know more then, but have to start planning the budget to get it done so need to know what I am expecting ( will have to look on the STAR computer as well).
  5. Thanks Alex, that's about what I thought, now just need to figure out the correct part, I know from reading another thread that our clutch is 215 m&m in diameter which is the same as the roadster clutch just not sure if they are the exact same part or not though, will need to find out I guess.
  6. Okay had a little time this aft to look a bit, the coauthor works still, the fork is not punched through, the car will shift gears ( and they engage) when the engine is not running ( checked by pushing the car with my foot, in neutral it moved, in reverse or first it would not) so all that seems normal and working, probably ruling out wiring ( though of course not positively). I took the actuator off and pushed the fork with a long screwdriver, it moved, but seems very stiff, anyone have an idea of how much forth would be needed? I then decided to see how the actuator was sitting in relation to the fork, with the car in neutral it seems not to contact the fork at all, even at the limits of it adjustment, this doesn't seem right to me ( as the manual adjustment procedure seems to rely it touching the fork) so now I am wondering about what would cause that, I would think either the clutch worn out, the clutch sticking in place, or the fork being bent. The actuator seems to be moving properly, but as I said I had to use a fair amount of force to move the fork and to me the actuator is moving freely in its motion. I will hook the computer back up to it tomorrow and see what I can check with reapect to the actuator tomorrow, I seem to recall being able to extend the tutor from the computer, if so I will do so and see if it is still moving freely at the other end of its range and therefor not contacting the clutch fork, and at least indicting the problem is somewhere in the clutch mechanism, If anyone has pushed the clutch fork by hand , can you let me know how hard it was to push the clutch to release it?On a different note, the clips for the bleeder for the coolant that I lost last year when I changed the coolant, magically appeared under the car today when I was playing with the clutch. Strange they would fall out today, instead of while I was driving sometime in the last year.
  7. It does appear that the clutch listed by rock auto may be incorrect, it doesn't appear to match the specs for the diesel clutch as sold in Europe. Is the diesel clutch the same as the roadsters? Mind you don't know why I am assuming this yet, I think I just went to worst case mode ( though I agree with the milage even if it is just the fork, if I separate the trans to replace it I would replace everything, just need to get the right parts.
  8. Well I can say that the actuator is working properly, looked at it while I pulsed the clutch with star. I checked all the wiring and the fork when I was getting the car on the road again a couple of weeks ago, it was running and shifting fine for about two weeks, but on either side of that not so great on either side of that ( wasn't shifting properly, wouldn't go into to gear before, and now when it does go into gear when I step on the brake it stalls. I am going to look at the fork and the wiring again before I order anything, and I will also check the sensor on the transmission ( gear position I thin k it is, but just got home from the night shift and my brain isn't working too well at the Monet) as Tolsen mentioned in a previous thread. We are headed on vacation, so don't think I am going to have a chance before the middle of July to get back to the. Ar ( though I may be able to do a coule of things before that, depending on time and energy. Will keep you guys updated, and will research the clutch some more in the mean time as well.
  9. Anybody know if the kit from Rock auto is correct? It is SACHS K7053201 and comes with the fork etc. seems like a good price for the parts ( then all I need to do is get it in). Of course if anybody else has any ideas of what else I might be able to do I am all ears . I have a discount code till the end of the month so the kit is under $400 after delivery and taxes, almost sounds too good to be try considering what the module from fast eddy costs ( though maybe there is more work with the kit, re assembling the clutch vs a completed module?).
  10. Well think I finally found out what is going on with the car. It worked okay for the last two weeks, but today when I needed it ( since I had the other car up in the air and needed to get something for it) it wouldn't shift into gear again ( or it would and then would stall when the brake was applied). Hooked it up and after a few times got a clutch not separating fault. Looks like I need to get a new clutch from what I can see. The car does have 193,000 km so I guess not that bad, I have a feeling this is along the lines of the spring problem someone else had and not a clutch surface problem as there was still no slipping. Anyway anyone know a good place to get ( relatively) cheap clutch parts for he car?
  11. Happy Birthday Glenn
  12. Mine used to do this, I think the original programming for the car did it this way, and then MB did an update to change it to blow cold all the time. I am not positive that is what it was, but after I had the ECU program changed by Glenn ( smart 142) to upgrade the performance of the car I also got cold air all the time. It is possible that you are still a little low on coolant as well though.
  13. Well its back together and I drove it out and about today, everything seems to be working okay again, I think I may still have a bit of clutch grab in a spot when I am stopped with the car in gear, but it is shifting and running well, will have to check it again on the weekend I think. Besides that I still haven't got the front drop link on, I went to do it and couldn't get the wheel off, so will try again tomorrow or Thursday, I am also 90% sure I need a thermostat! the car is not getting up to operating temperature ever today on a 20+ degree day. It is nice to be able to drive it again at least and maybe with a bit of use things will smooth out again, I know it doesn't like not being driven ( and it has sat in the garage since November). I also was he'd seven moths of dust off the car with a quick wash, need to do some detailing. I also need to get my summer tires onto my alloy rims, I don't think it will be driven in the winter anymore if I keep it and I would much rather have the alloys with the summer tires than the steeliness.
  14. You are probably right Francesco, I guess for the cars that the frame doesn't reach the hole the lowering of the car may work as well as it did on mine, the ones where the frame goes farther than the hole the Jack to push the tube wider may work and then for others just jacking each side up to the frame works.
  15. Its alive ( or almost). Finally got the intercooler back on and drove it up and down the street, it is shifting well, and everything seems to be working.In the next couple of days I will retorque everything that I installed and/or removed, and finish installing the rest of the new parts and the body panels and drive it a bit to see how it is doing for real. Can't wait!Oh and for the x brace lowering the car on its wheels as suggested worked a treat, could grab the tire and pull to get the bolt in , so it seems that is the way to go.