Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by briand

  1. I ordered and received the Brabus front splitter for the 450. I dropped it off at a local repair shop that matched the paint perfectly. I found this out when they had to replace a windshield and do some panel repainting. The color is spot on. The painter there is a genius. I have a question about the kit. It comes with two washers and two pop rivets as seen below. The Evilution guide (found at for fitting the Brabus splitter says to use zip ties: I have two problems with this: First, what is to keep the zip tie from sliding down? Then it isn't doing its job and it probably looks yucky. Second, I cannot find a zip tie long enough and thin enough that would allow me to make the zip tie tight enough to properly hold the pieces together. How would the pop rivets and washers be fitted to properly secure the black tabs to the front splitter?
  2. I just had a similar experience Bil. This is proving to be a tough nut to crack. My Dad and I installed gaskets and rtv on the oil pan and where the oil dipstick tube meets the engine while trying to track down an oil leak. That seemed to fix it however, a third of the way on my drive home from my parents, I noticed little dots of oil on the back window. It seems the stupid catch can I have is still giving me some leaking. I imagine its the fact that I don't have any sort of substance in the can. I have tried to shove some in the holes, but not much gets inside the can and not in the big clumpy ball we need it to be to grab (and hold onto) the oil vapour. It appears once the can is about half full, the oil vapour just leaks out of the air filter mounted next to the airbox and gets all over the back of the car. Stupid catch can stupidness.
  3. I found two that seem nice. Of course the previously mentioned drivemocion is for sale at ThinkGeek for US$29.95: Drivemocion LED Sign And ThinkGeek sells another scrolling sign for US$39.95. You can program its display to say anything: Scrolling LED sign
  4. Thanks Huronlad! We're taking it off now. Looks like its only RTV Uhm, are there any instructions for removing the oil pan? I'm looking but if anyone knows, I'd appreciate a tip in the right direction. I'll try to get some pictures. UPDATE: I found this: Oil pan removal but it just says to remove the plastic alternator cover. I assume it clips on? Or are there bolts?
  5. I think there must be a way to prevent this. I've been reading through a Porsche forum and one of the guys is getting his class licenses. I think they posted pictures of what they did to the rear wheel fenders (since theirs flare out like ours) to prevent rock chips and sandblasting. I'll see if I can find it.
  6. Speedie, these are excellent! Thanks so much. I have a question about the above two photos. Was there a gasket between the oil pan and the bottom of the engine? It looks like there is a gasket in the picture but I want to make sure.
  7. installed the factory cruise control stalk in the silver/silver 450 yesterday. Finally! No more tired right leg
  8. That is my question as well. I asked Glenn about his S-Mann side skirts and sandblasting. If I remember correctly he said that it didn't reduce it 100%.
  9. Hotwheels, Speedie is correct. That head light assembly came on all of the USA ZAP and G&K conversion cars (1026 in total). It seemed our Dept. of Transportation did not like the OEM setup and had G&K change the entire assembly. I think if you call G&K and ask to speak with Edward, you might be able to buy the assemblies. I am not sure how simple or difficult it would be to fit these. You would also have to find a place for your turn indicators. In the G&K conversions, the turn signals were moved to the factory fog light locations. I heard someone mention that the headlight assembly uses the low and high beam lenses/projectors from the Roadster. However, if that were 100% true, why are the bulbs H9 and not H7 like (according to Evilution) in the Roadster? Also, the assemblies that the high and low beams are in should have been painted to either match the Tridion or the body panels. They start to yellow over time and it does not look so good.Interesting fact, all of the G&K (not sure about ZAP) conversions have all of the original wires for the OEM headlight assembly. If you do the swap back to the OEM assembly on G&K cars, all of the electrical wires are present for the headlights and the motors!!
  10. Finished fitting the Brabus front splitter to the silver/silver 450 I also fit the black Brabus grill to my black/silver trid 450. The picture I took came out too blurry so I will take another tomorrow. Next on my list is to come up with some sort of exhaust solution for my silver/silver. I am thinking of using bilgladstone's great pictures and parts list as a place to start. I think I want to go the center exit route.
  11. Here it is fitted to the front panels and the whole set is attached to the car!
  12. I wrote to Kane/Evilution about it and he replied today saying that he could not find a rivet gun that would fit in the area where the pop rivets go, hence the zip tie solution. And as promised, here are pictures with measurements: As you can see, there is not much room between the two upside-down looking U sections (where the black tabs insert) and the bottom lip of the splitter. With the black tabs inserted and the rivets sticking out the proper direction, there is not enough room to get any rivet gun I could find at Home Depot or Ace Hardware into that tiny area.
  13. No worries, Mike_T. I think its because the splitter comes from Brabus with the pop rivets holding the black tab to the splitter at the spot where the Evilution how-to shows the zip ties. I am kind of "thinking out loud" now. The more I look at the how-to and the parts, I have no idea why one would NOT use the pop rivets to secure the black tabs to the splitter. As can be seen in the pictures at the Evilution how-to, the black tabs are very integral to keep the splitter from moving about. And the black tabs cannot be used on anything else. End of my "thinking out loud." Here are more pictures: Above, the original splitter is separated from the front panel. Above, the new Brabus splitter, painted to match the panels, awaiting install. Above, the old splitter (black) is laid on top of the new Brabus splitter (grey/silver). I tried to line their respective tops up exactly so I could show the difference in height between stock and Brabus. I will get measurements and post them later.
  14. So would you recommend that we should add "oil and then grease the handbrake cable" to every service interval (A, B and C), every other (say, every A service), every time we change the oil or just at a certain time period? Yearly seems like it might be too infrequent for areas that have snow in the winter as well as roads that get salted. Also very humid/damp areas should probably due it more often as well to fight off rust, correct? The more I read everyone on this forum's experiences with their local MB/Smart dealers, I am (i) not concerned about the initial difficulty of finding a repair shop in the US, (ii) grateful that all of you share your thoughts/suggestions/solutions, (iii) getting the feeling that my next car probably won't be a Mercedes since MB doesn't seem to have a habit of fixing problems with maintenance, instead choosing to fix it with "expensive parts and labour" and (d) grateful that all of you share your knowledge, wisdom, suggestions, solutions, etc.
  15. I too will take the bait. I want to know how I turn the radio on without using the key.
  16. I like the nut and bolt idea, CS. I don't want to drill into the plastic and the nut and bolt (with a washer ) idea through the pre-drilled hole would make the black tabs and front splitter removable. I cannot imagine I would want to remove the front splitter but I guess one never knows what the future will bring :DHowever, why would you not use the rivet? Because the rivets prevent the separation of the black tabs and the front splitter?
  17. Aha!! Smart Times posts their back issues online!! I've attached the pages from the Spring 2009 issue that featured CoastSteve's car. The full issue can be downloaded at smartimesspring2009CS.pdf
  18. Mike_T and Canadian Turbo, I have the EBC slotted and cross-drilled rotors (like the ones in the picture posted earlier) for my Chevy HHR and I have noticed that they rust quicker than the EBC slotted rotors that are on my Smart. It seems that there is a coating on the rotor of the slotted and there is no such coating on the slotted and cross-drilled rotors.
  19. Does that key come with the push-button start parts or is that something you had made? I am very seriously eyeing the push-button parts from S-P-D
  20. Wow. I really dropped the ball on this. I'm making a note to find the article and scan it in this weekend. Sorry for the almost 1 year(!!) delay. I'm an idiot.
  21. YaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaayy!!!
  22. I agree with Mike_T and Huronlad. Its obvious to the most non-technical person that if there wasn't a leak due to faulty design, the A/C compressor would not have failed.
  23. At the risk of starting an arguement and/or opening old wounds, the other preventive measure you could take is to remove the crank case vent hose from the TIK pipe and fit an oil catch tank. Admittedly this is more of an intercooler preventive measure, however in my mind the intercooler and turbo are one unit. Can't have one without the other. I know its been discussed many many times. But maybe its worth repeating in case any newcomers to the forums find this. Now or in the future. And it has pictures. The stock way your turbo and intercooler are treated. The rubber seal where the TIK meets the turbo failed often. There is a newly redesigned seal (and clamp) that seems to correct the seal failure. Correction of the turbo seal just allows more burnt oil vapor into the turbo/intercooler system so why it is deemed a repair is a mystery to me. The left-most pipe coming into the top of the TIK is the pipe from the crank case vent. It dumps all of the burnt oil vapor into the TIK which then leaks out of the failed turbo seal. Crank case vent and the inlet on the TIK where, by OEM design, the burnt oil vapor is sent into the turbo and then the intercooler. The hose that connects the crank case vent to the inlet on the TIK. Mine was about 70% broken. I tore it the rest of the way when removing it to fit a new hose for the oil catch can. Which in hindsight means that the burnt oil vapor was just venting to the atmosphere and/or causing oil drips to stain the garage floor. Better (to me) than dumping it all into the turbo and intercooler. Maybe the intercooler should be renamed the burnt oil vapor reservoir in the parts list from MB/Smart?
  24. Anyone able to get in touch with GetSet and loan them a scanner to scan in and post the invoice? I can't get a warranty fix but I want to order the part(s) to repair the faulty design.
  25. Speedie, the product looks cool. Its a wireless connector to the passenger window?