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Everything posted by briand

  1. Thanks Huronlad. If the car has tweeters, is it safe to assume that it has the upgraded sound package?
  2. Wow. It does snow here in the metro Atlanta Georgia area in the winter. It does get to below 0*C sometimes too. However, my cars are garage kept so I'm thinking this may not need to be a concern for me.
  3. I was thinking about trying a higher mounting point for the can, however, one thought bugs me.When the car cools down after running, the burnt oil vapor will condense in the line from the crank case to the can correct? Will the condensed oil sitting in the line (and potentially rolling towards the crankcase vent) be a problem?
  4. Thanks Bil. I drove it almost 2000 miles since the install of the catch can (to 1st Annual [inter]Nationals and back). It was full before I returned home. Unfortunately return does not go back to the TIK. I've completely sealed off the TIK inlet spot. There is no filtering element inside the can so I have a small external air filter up high next to the air box. I will take a few more pictures by this weekend.I also had to put some copper grease/anti-seize on the little drain plug of the can. It gets stuck so easily and feels cheapish.
  5. Nice job! Would you suggest replacing the axle boots while the axles are out? Also, I imagine part of replacing the boots means cleaning out/off what is under the boots.
  6. Just wanted to add my thanks to you, Duck, for this great video. Putting the car into Neutral and turning the key to off first makes it so simple to slip the cover off to put the spray straw in. Almost too simple. I may crawl back under the car and attached a round clamp to it to help fight dirt getting in there.I did this and the physical adjustment & software clutch adjustments at the 1st Annual Smart (Inter)Nationals in KC (really Lenexa, Kansas). Bobb Todd, Huronlad and Leonard were there for moral support / supervisory roles.
  7. Wait, those bins are not there stock? Even if you have the upgraded sound package?
  8. So before I left for the 1st Annual (Inter)Nationals event in Kansas City (technically Lenexa), KS, I decided to finally finish my oil catch can install and add my new stereo head unit. Here are some pictures from the catch can install: Part of the engine where burnt oil vapor is sent back into air intake/turbo: This pipe goes from the above area of the engine to the air intake pipe and is what dumps the burnt oil vapor into the clean air (and then turbo which leads to the intercooler which makes all of us ). As you can see, it had broken where the larger area becomes smaller. Almost a clean break too. ADDED 10 Aug 2010: Crankcase vent tubing. I used heater hose, an elbow (visible in a photo below) and the included tubing to go from crankcase vent to the catch can. Crankcase Vent Hose by briandewitt, on Flickr ADDED 10 Aug 2010: An overview of the hose runs. Foreground goes to catchcan, background hose goes to air filter installed next to airbox. Catch Can Hose Runs by briandewitt, on Flickr Here is the catch can that I installed: Here is the can attached to its temporary mounting space: and close up: ADDED 10 Aug 2010: And a picture of the air filter for the catch can. Catch Can Air Filter by briandewitt, on Flickr
  9. On 10 June 2010 I installed my new stereo unit: Its a kenwood kiv-bt900. I also received the additional HD Radio unit but have not yet installed it. I also need to fine tune the placement of the microphone for the unit's bluetooth functionality. I also emptied the catch tank for the first time since I installed it on 10 June 2010. It was already full by today! but This is the oil (well technically condensed vapor) that came out of it: Its actually half of what came out of the can. The other half ended up on the garage floor. I didn't think to use a funnel. I will next time! This catch can was pretty much full after only 5 days
  10. Bil, these are amazing aren't they? I had Paul install them on my 450 at the Nationals event. The round washer with the bevel had to be bored out just a little bit to fit my 450. It seems our spline does not remain the same diameter from end to end like the 451's. Our spline "swells" in the middle (its a larger diameter in the middle than at either end) whereas the 451's spline stays the same. Paul was happy to find out if it fit the 450 since he was being asked a lot about that. I wish his engine mount would work on our 450. Sadly I believe it will not. Going to my garage to find my spare mount now to make sure.
  11. I've created a short link to get right to the post with the parts list PDF. Its
  12. Nifty! I'm trying to create a removal mount for the iPad that works in the 450. I imagine using it as a GPS, stereo head unit and for a super secret project I'm working on.
  13. I do not live in any of the states you mentioned but I do live in Georgia. I get to Nashville every once in a while. If you see a silver/silver pre-2008+ model with tinted windows, wing mirrors with LED turn indicators and a Georgia license plate, its me. Honk and wave! Come to think of it, we should come up with some sort ClubSmartCar hand signal that we can flash to eat other. Comes in handy later when we come to the forums and/or are not driving our Smarts. Maybe just flash the American Sign Language's letter C?
  14. Thanks Glenn for the oil filters cross reference. I will add that to the parts list. Also adding part number for the hose from the crankcase to the TIK (air intake) pipe. You know, the one that sends oil vapor into the turbo and thus the intercooler? I went to fit my catch can and the stupid pipe was broken. So I cleaned it up, grabbed a photo and added it. Here is what it looks like: Part number A 160 018 01 12 The side on the left in the above photo connects here: (photo coming soon)
  15. I think I remember seeing a picture of his setup with that catch can. He the vent side hooked up to a filter if I remember correctly. And that filter was up next to the airbox. Well where the airbox would be, but he had some sort of conic air filter setup. Thanks for the reminder.
  16. Great news that it is usable and fixes the problem! I think its funny that I read Bil's posts that the 42 Draft Designs part is what we've been looking for and then the doorbell rang. It was UPS with my FRS catch tank! Looks like I might be making a return.
  17. Thanks for the explanation Bil. And thanks for all of the pictures. :DI have noticed that the stock exhaust's strap on my turbo gas 450 is slowly wearing a groove through the screw holes that attach the strap to the engine. Looks like I will have to figure out how to implement this mod as well. Seems like I cannot mount the strut in the same place on my car. I'll take a look and some pictures to see what I can think up.
  18. Thanks for the tip MIke_T. It might be electronically controlled. I am not 100% certain. Bil, thats unfortunate you lost the scoop but a great thing that you took the extra time to design it properly.
  19. Great shot Mike_T!
  20. added three more parts to the list:- intercooler carrier (redesigned)- turbo inlet seal (redesigned)- clamp (wider) [for turbo inlet seal (redesigned)]Thanks to Mike_T for listing these
  21. I believe this was covered here somewhere (and also over at the SCoA forums). Slide the driver's seat as far forward (toward the steering wheel) as it will go. Under the driver's seat there is a wire coming out of the carpet.Gently pull as much of this out of the carpet as you can. You should soon feel an area of this wire that has a bulge wrapped in electrical tape. Unwrap the electrical tape and you will find two pink connectors. Unplug both as one controls the seatbelt and the other controls the key-in-ignition-and-door-open buzzer. Then re-wrap these in electrical tape. I tried to use the existing but ended up replacing it with new electrical tape. Enjoy the annoying, buzzer-free life! Why G&K was force to change the pleasant "bong bong bong" noise to an annoying "REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!" is mind-boggling.Also, are you going to the Smart Car Nationals in June? There are a few G&K 450s that will be there as well as some of the forum members here!
  22. Just had this happen on one of my turbo gas 450s. I was driving from Nashville, Tennessee back to Atlanta, Georgia (a rather hilly area) maintaining an average speed of 70mph - 80mph (112kmh - 128kmh) and heard a loud "pssssssssssssshhhhhhhffffft!" and then noticed no turbo assistance (thats the best way I can describe it). Pulled over at the next exit into a well-lighted gas station. Left the car running (so that the turbo could get a chance to cool down) and got out to inspect everything. Looking at the rear of the car and the ground beneath it, I noticed some oil had hit the pavement. Then I noticed the entire rear panel and rear door (part under the rear window) were covered in a light "misting" of oil. I took the engine cover off, shined my flashlight in to make sure that all hoses were still connected and everything was functioning as it should. Once the engine cooled to my liking, I shut it off and decided to take a snack and restroom break. Once I started the car again, the turbo was back and there were no problems. Today I decided to inspect the car. I pulled the rear panels off, cleaned the engine (i mean really cleaned it. Almost looks like an engine with 1k on it. I also put some white lithium spray grease on the reluctor rings as they're starting to look bad) and I believe I've narrowed the cause down to one of two things based on what I have read in this thread. [*]The wastegate arm decided to do a large purge [*]the jubilee clamp for the top intercooler hose (where hose connects to the intercooler right next to the airbox) does not form a good enough seal and the pressure build up was exhausted between the intercooler hose and the intercooler After cleaning the engine I checked the intercooler and its airscoop and noticed I may need to buy and install the updated parts Mike_T mentioned. Also, I found the source of an oil leak. Where the top intercooler hose connects to the intercooler near the airbox, the Forge Motorsports 4-ply silicone hose and its supplied clamp do not seem to form a perfect seal. Or I could have the jubilee clamp twisted too tight or not situated 100% perfect, but I highly doubt that. Since the engine was just cleaned, I decided to run the engine for about 15 minutes or so before I started inspecting areas that had noticeable oil from oil leaks (only 2, one of which is the usual suspect that is corrected by fitting a catch tank). I noticed a line of oil running down the plastic opening the top intercooler hose connects to. This then causes the oil to drip on the driveshaft and its seal. I then thought "Maybe there was a tiny gap at the conenction of intercooler and intercooler hose. Under pressure this gap then allowed pressure to escape." This, and Mike_T posting that there is a new, wider clamp for the intercooler hose, prompted me to come up with scenario number 2, above. But then I reread this thread, read Gent's post and looked at the wastegate arm servicing guide (as suggested by Gent's post, quoted above) at Evilution (I hope Kane is getting a well-deserved break) and figured I should service it. I didn't have any graphite lube so I decided to check the Wastegate Actuator Hoses and to check the clip that connectors the wastegate arm (Loose wastegate arm). Clip looked good and all hoses are still attached properly. So I'm puzzled. I imagine that since I heard the same noise Gent heard, it was the wastegate doing a large purge (scenraio 1 above). Maybe the large purge was caused by the work the engine was having to do? Or maybe it was caused by the pin on the wastegate arm becoming wonky under the stress/temp? Engine temp (as measured by the car's regular display, no fancy X- or ScanGauge) was 3 blips. Is scenario 2 even possible? This is certainly the weirdest thing that has every happened to me in the Smart.
  23. Thanks for the info, Bil. I have no way to test it to see if it does. If Kane (Evilution) says it doesn't I believe him.
  24. kayble, thanks for the TIK seal part number. I've added it to the parts list at 450 Part Numbers bil, thanks for the info on the silicone pipe versus the original plastic part. FYI, If it fits the diesel, I'd be interested in selling the Forge TIK pipe.
  25. Yes. I should have noted that in the post. I own two 450 gassers.