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About Ravk

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  1. Run a bit of Moly injector cleaner. On a nearly empty tank at temperature, add a full bottle. Drive about 50k at high speed (on the ring road called Anthony Henday here in Edmonton) then fill the tank. This stuff can act as a solvent and clean out your tank as well, so expect to replace the filter after 2 or 3 tanks after treatment. Also check if the little rubber bumper thingy is still on the muffler. I know this seems dumb, but that actually is a vibration dampener and is noticeable when you forget to put it back on.
  2. Check the connections to the computer at the air box as well. I went through this as well, checked all connections from the ignition switch, cables, even traced the wires in the cluster behind the radio and still had stalling,no start and battery drain situations. I finally checked the computer connections and found a little corrosion on a few pins. Cleaned them up, made sure the connection gaskets were greased and tight.
  3. When you do a mod like this, tell your insurance company. They will want to do an inspection and an appraisal so that they are covered. As a modified vehicle, they may charge a premium for this mod. I have an electric motorcycle, 78 Honda Hawk, here in Alberta. The bike had to be inspected by a motorcycle mechanic for safety ($110) and an appraisal ($150). I went the extra mile by having it looked at by a golf cart mechanic to inspect the wiring and connections. The bike was insured for replacement if $4000 as a modified motorcycle.Robert
  4. The Lister Petter engine is a marvel in its simplicity and its shear torque! When you get it, clean it inside and out. Do not play with the injector settings, its a pain to get it back. You can get the generator, belt and pullys from here they have a few more things for the generator setup. I ran a 2 cyl listeroid (Lister knockoff from India) running a 6 kw genset. This engine can run on diesel, veggie oil, used motor oil or biodiesel. Great power and would start after 2 turns of the flywheel at -20 c. Fun little (snicker) hobby motor or prime power. Lots of history there! Robert
  5. Here are the pics of the Webasto installed. I had to replace some of the clips anyway.I know the pics are not that good, but it is the best that I could do.You can see the fuel filter beside the heater, to give you an idea about the size. The unit is bolted to the floor. The heater is plumed in through the heater core line as a bypass (run in line with the heater core). The heater fuel pump and filter is visible below and teed into the return line inside the engine compartment. The wiring can be plumbed through the grommet by the battery for convenience, and routed to the timer where ever you place it. If you have access to a lift, you can install it using the instructions on their website.Right now they have a special on the Webasto heater (without install) for $900. This is with the timer, general hookup hoses, fuel pump and wiring.Robert
  6. I had purchased the Wabasto Thermotop C on E-Bay for $650 + shipping from the US last year. Eskimo Refrigeration here in Edmonton installed it. It was the first Smart they installed the heater in so it took a little longer then they expected, 13 hours of labour (the next one will be faster) and the harness I had needed to be modified (darn E-bay!) because the timer would not work with this heater. Total install cost was $1300 . On / off on the dash for now, going to be hooked up to a (cheap) aftermarket alarm for remote operation and a 1 hour timer. With all parts, shipping, labour and alarm install, I have spent a total of $2300. If you bought the unit though Eskimo it would come out about the same. I know it was expensive, but I can not drive down the back alley to plug it in at the garage, and the city frowns appon a cord crossing the sidewalk out front. At work, I can only plug in with a 75 foot extension, not practical.I do love the sound of the heater running though, sounds like a turbine under the drivers seat!The company does installs of fuel fired heaters/air conditioners for the trucking and heavy equipment market. Here is the company info: Eskimo Refrigeration Ltd. 18008 118 Ave. NW Tel# (780) 454 8620 Contact Art van Boom (Service Manager) for more info.If you want to see the install, PM me and we can get together some day. Robert
  7. I just had my Smart Wabastoed today, and I hope it works the way I want it to. I was tired of trying to start the car at -20C, seeing clear windows after about 15 min of driving and freezing my fingers off. The cost is quite high, but I think it was well spent in the "warm engine start" department. Not only do you have a warm car, you have less wear!I will keep you up to date during the cold!Robert
  8. This does sound familiar to me! I had the same problem, starts fine most of the time, some times no start. It turns out the ground from the frame to the engine came loose. Check out and clean all ground connections and check the multi connectors for corrosion. It seems when they assembled our little beasts, they neglected tighten the ground connections (engine, under the dash, by the headlights, etc.) This lesson cost me a few arguments at the dealer, they kept blaming my "after market" battery and would not check further untill I had the battery checked properly. Long story short. They finally checked further to find loose ground and burnt connectors due to corrosion.Robert
  9. I have been making and running my Smart on 100% biodiesel (30% in winter) for 2 years now. The best advice I can give is pay attention to your titration and cleaning of your fuel. I water wash it untill it is clear, let it sit for 2 weeks to settle out then run it thrugh a 2 micron filter. Make sure your fire department knows you have a quantity of methanol and costic soda in your storage (I supply one of the firemarshels with a 4 gal jug every time he visits) just to be safe and to be sure you are complient to the fire laws in your area. The only problems that I have had was when we had a cold snap past -20c when I had 100% bio. The bio jelled and I had to push the car into the shop at work to warm up and dilute with dinodiesel. The other problem was that bio is a solvent, crud from the tank and lines plugged the fuel filter after the first 4 tanks. So far 38000 km on bio without any problems. Regular maintenance is all that is needed.Robert
  10. Sound to me like lifters are getting weak. As the engine warms up, lifter sounds diminish and come back as the oil thins.I also hear the chain "whirr" sound from the under shot. Not as loud as mine at 135k but may be worth the time to check. I am going to replace both chains and the oil pump (about $300 in parts).Robert
  11. The "Smells like Fries" reference is when you get your used cooking oil, whatever has been cooked in the oil leaves some of the smell of the food. The oil I started with was from a place that just cooked french fries. Thus the exhaust had a french fry smell to it. I was in a traffic jam on the Whitemud here in Edmonton. 45 minutes to get from the west end to the south side. When I turned off on Calgary trail, I kept going while 7 or 8 cars that were behind me went into the Burger King.Robert
  12. I have been running B100 during the summer without a problem. It does clean out the fuel system and will plug the fuel filter after about 7 or 8 tanks, easy fix replace the filter at 5. I have checked my EGR and it is clean!During the winter I have used between 5% and 25% depending on the long range forecast as bio has a high cloud point.The engine oil should be checked more often due to bio contamination as it is thinner than diesel and will leak down past the rings. The Smart has much smaller injectors than "normal" diesels and do not like crud. Check your car over for leaks, just to be sure.Now, before the others chime in, if you still have warranty this can void it (under the fuel exception). Bad bio can cause many problems, hard starting, poor economy, stalling etc. At worst injector pump damage from the caustic or methanol. Make sure of the source of your bio, proper filtering and testing goes a long way.Some Smarts have problems with bio, others do not. All depends on the sensors and mechanical condition of the car. As I said, my 05 Smart has been running Bio for almost 2 years now, with only minor inconveniences (filters, a bad batch and a couple cold weather jelling issues) and I love the smell of fries!!Robert
  13. I have the same unit, and it works great. Warm oil makes it faster. I also have made adapters for flushing the brake lines, pumping out the remaining rad fluid (soft, long hose) and plug to vac fill a transfer case. If you want to do your own oil changes, this is a great investment!Robert
  14. There are a few of us Smarties here in Edmonton, but I think a few are hibernating tho. I would be interested in a get together. What side of the city will you be staying, this way we can give you suggestions on where to meet!Robert
  15. In a nutshell, do not use the Smart on waste or pure veggie oil. The injectors are not big enough for WVO to keep clear. The glycerine in the oil will cake on the injectors and literally kill them. Larger engines can withstand this fairly well, but not the smaller engines (Smart, Kaboda, Cat, etc). WVO and PVO are thick at the best of times and will harm the fuel pumps as well.Plus, the fuel heaters, extra tank, lines etc..... Where are you going to put them?Robert