Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About BJSmart

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Recent Profile Visitors

261 profile views
  1. UPDATE: Got lucky and found that I had some intermittent starting! Which meant there was at least a possibility of a road trip to Glenn's shop in London Made an appointment for last Thursday and off I went. Glenn replaced the spade terminal on wire to the starter solenoid, which was quite oxidized. Sounds easy peasy but involves lowering the engine to gain access, similar to when doing an alternator swap! For good measure we replaced the ground cable which also was rusty and oxidized. Actually we didn't replace, we added a second one and attached the lower end to a different location than what OEM is. Question for Cadillacman ...curious how you accessed the lower attachment point of the OEM ground to undo??? Glenn and I had a good look and there is no easy way in to undo even with rear body panel removed! Glenn, thanks so much once again for keeping our smart on the road!! All good so far
  2. OK will try this!
  3. So today I went out and the car started twice, both times on first try!!! i'm thinking that the wonky solenoid connector as suggested by smart142 and cadillacman is the most likely culprit. One reason being a critter has been chewing off the felt insulating pad material on the underside of the engine bay compartment in recent weeks. It is using this felt to build a cozy nest on the front side of the engine just above where the starter and alternator sit. This could have easily disturbed the spade connection or even the wire to the solenoid? So I have made an appointment and hopefully it will start on that day allowing me to drive straight through and have that addressed. Meanwhile need to decide on a plan to dissuade this critter from setting up housekeeping in the engine bay!!
  4. So when I turn the key I get a soft click sound from the dash, followed by ~5 seconds soft whirring sound from engine bay and then another soft click from dash. That's all
  5. Ok i see the top end strap attachment point is readily available just inside the engine bay cover. looks like I have to remove the rear body panel to access the other end? Can I test the continuity of this with an ohm meter? And further on this, when I did a continuity check on the negative battery terminal to ground connection it read as 'open" on the meter! Which doesn't make sense to me but I'm not very knowledgeable in this regard
  6. I did check the battery ground, no issue there. The battery also is fine. Where is the engine ground cable?
  7. We are having the same problem! Any update on this ...the outcome??
  8. Thank you all for the suggestions! Tolsen, I am in no way equipped to dissasemble all that as shown! Kudos to you to be willing and able to do such an in-depth job! My solution as always when I have smart car stuff I can't handle is to drive from Muskoka to London and visit Glenn (smart142). Glenn is my all time favourite mechanic, next to my dad. And dad is 95, so his wrenching days are done! I visit Glenn every 2 -3 years, get a bunch of routine stuff done plus whatever issue of the moment I am having looked after, and then the car runs flawlessly for another 2-3 years! Since 2014 was my last visit, and since I already had another issue that (sticky waste-gate/ intermittent over-boost) needed attention to London I went this morning. Glenn removed the bottom cover panels for improved access and sprayed some concoction all over the u-joints and we turned the wheels back and forth for some time while applying some heat to the joints. Worked a charm, steering is butter smooth again!!! Glenn has done this for a number of smarts and it seems to have worked out well for all. Will see how long it lasts, maybe I can remember to update in future. Waste-gate is also fixed, brakes serviced, actuator serviced and tuned, including a mod to extend it's life. Some rustproofing done while the bottom panels were off, a general inspection all round etc etc. Lunch was then had, I think the only thing we missed was going for a beer! Maybe next time ...thanks again Glenn!
  9. Thank you Tolsen! I will be visiting our mechanic soon for some other service. Looks like I should utilize his skill and knowledge for this also!
  10. Steering on our '05 Passion Cabriolet has been feeling a bit stiff of late. A search tells me there are 2 universal joints to be lubed to address this. I looked in the Wiki but I'm not seeing an Instruction for this. Can someone give me a quick synopsis on accessing these joints? Thank you!
  11. I have the same issue for some time now. Left lower body panel screw will not release despite penetrating spray and even cutting a large groove in the head for a flat screwdriver. So I have been spraying from above with graphite spray which seems to resolve the issue for a week or two. Contrary to recommendations on here to use graphite spray instead of WD40, I have had better longer lasting success with WD40 lately!! Into winter now, maybe next summer I can have another go at removing the panel
  12. We had both key fobs for 2005 go through the washer more than once years back thanks to our son. Only negative effect was the batteries would not last long thereafter so we always carried a few spares in the car. That lasted for 6 months or a year maybe, after which battery life returned to normal and I can't remember now last time I had to replace one. So yours should dry out and return to normal function eventually. Hope you have a second fob!
  13. I should update everyone on this because there were several suggestions as to the cause. The condition described became much more frequent but continued to be very random which led me to believe it was electrical rather than clogged egr or sticky waste gate. So I unplugged my egr emulator chip and then plugged it back in...suspecting an intermittent bad pin contact or similar. That was well over a month ago or maybe 2 and we haven't had a single episode of limp mode since!!
  14. was the jumper wire I think. Soon as I removed fuse box cover the windows started working. Maybe the cover was making the jumper wire loose connection. So I repositioned the cover with slightly looser fit and its all good now Thanks all!
  15. we have been having some issues with the windows most of the summer. sometimes they wouldn't go up or down, but then the next time or two we tried them they would be working again! but now past week they would not go down at all. then my wife tried drivers window today and it went down a cm or so and stopped and now wont go up or down again! Glenn did a mod on them whereby with a jumper he set them up so they would open/close without having to turn the car on. probably not relevant because that was done a few years ago. i'm thinking a bad wire or loose connection somewhere...any thoughts?